Ok seems like 2 things are going on.

#1 The fact the fuse is blown says that the issue if after the fuse (obviously) and between the filter box and the unit itself.

#2 the filter box has been assembled on a poor quality circuit board. ontop of that, the solder used is very poor quality and i would almost guarantee that if you lift the circuit board out of the plastic housing and look underneath it, you will discover that the solder has lifted where the +B and - are (dry solder joints) this is the case at the IN and OUT of the filter.
that's why the power is intermediate, and can cause the fuse to blow as the unit would be getting inconsistent power and possible at one stage spiked and current draw went above the fuse rating.


I re did all the solder joints inside that filter box too. (sorry i forgot to mention that in me previous reply)

 

Hi mate, the 5 channel amp will make allot of difference!

the Google maps are online so you will need constant internet connection ( however, i heard that google now offers the user to download the maps for any area they wish, so google how to do that) that will allow offline navigation.

Alternatively, You will need a navigation app call (IGOPrimo- its 100% offline navigation) normally the sellers provide a copy with the head unit which has your country maps on in.

Did you receive a micro SD card with he unit? if so, you need to insert it into the maps SD card slot and install it using file manager. (check to see if they already placed the card in there for you )

I am not sure about the Keyless go mate, i think it normally has a communication path with the COMAND unit, and because you no longer have it. it wont function? i would address this question to a Mercedes technician. see if there is a way to go around that.

(i know that the car can be coded to have no COMAND. so perhaps it needs that? that way the Keyless go wont try to talk with the unit?


Regards

 

Cheers .. I looked at it and the solder joints "looked" OK but I will add solder to all the joints ... I also bought a separate filter just in case I cannot get the filter to work right. It wasn't real expensive. I just want to get the thing working again. Another thing is that the diode in the pic I posted can possibly short against the inductor .. really crappy design. I am going to add heat shrink to that to prevent shorting.

Thanks for all the help here. Many would be lost without your help

 

Final follow up here. The issue now is completely fixed. The root cause was as Xpresion said bad solder joints and also really really bad PCB. The copper on the board just broke away so I had to solder wire to the points shown in the picture below. The ground and power on the input side were both bad. After reassembling, all was good. I think it is going to be a matter of time for others before this happens so watch out guys ...

 

I'm Glad you got it all sorted buddy.

And thank you for the Kind words mate.

 

I got the one i linked below. it replaces the number plate light lense. It also has dynamic /active prediction guide lines, they work when you are reversing at slow speed. but not when completely creeping if you know what i mean. pretty much has a gyroscope chip in it.





https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...d-f5ccc53c4174

 

Hi Guys,

I have seen here that in order to be able to set the clock on the instrument cluster via the steering wheel you have to have someone use a a Star Diagnostic tool to de-select that I have COMAND installed on my car (2009 CLS 63 AMG). I understand that this will bring back hidden menus on the cluster that were previously done through the COMAND HU.(like setting the clock)

I have a few of questions for anyone who might know the answers:

1) Can you verify that my understanding stated above is correct?

2) Is there anything else I should ask the technician to do on Star while he's there, based on the fact that I now have an aftermarket stereo?

3) I am using the factory fiber optic amp (with a fiber optic interface box) for all speakers except the subwoofer (for which I use an aftermarket amp) Will de-selecting COMAND in Star cause any problems with me using the factory fiber optic amp?

4) What else on the cluster will change when I have COMAND de-selected? I assume "Navi ----", "Radio Off", etc will disappear. Is that right?

5) Will there be a new page from which I can use track and volume controls on the stereo? I just want to make sure I don't lose steering wheel controls.

6) Is there anything else I should know about the effects of de-selecting COMAND?


Sorry about all the questions...

Thanks a bunch for the help!

Patrick

 

Yes, this is correct. There are hidden menus that need to be enabled. Then you can set the clock via the steering wheel controls and the reset button. While the tech is in there there are a number of things that can be done also (depending on your options as well). These are not related to the Comand but are still useful little functions.

1. Set CGW to ROW (Rest of world) - This will turn on
a. SBC-H Nice little feature to keep the brake engaged while at a stop
b. Will allow you to see individual tire pressures (if you have TPMS)
c. You can get rid of the side markers if you like without code coming up

2. Turn on tank info (tells you how many gallons of fuel there are left).

3. Turn off Keyless Go - This gets rid of the annoying beep to remove your key (if you have Keyless Go) The Keyless go function is still there though.

4. Turn off Secondary Air Injection pump

5. Raise speed limiter

6. Turn on flashing adaptive brake lights (brake lights flash when you do emergency stop).

I haven't addressed your other questions since I did not keep my stock amplifier. But think the other items I mentioned are worth doing.

 

Thanks for the info!

Anyone else happen to know if the factory fiber optic amp will get disabled when COMAND is de-selected via Star and/or whether volume and track controls still work on the steering wheel?(I have a CANBUS interface box)

Thanks!

 

Ok don't take this as gospel, however i am fairly certain that the only coding you need to do via star is in relation to the cluster unit only. you can re code the cluster to tell it there is no comand, and it will bring up the manual clock adjsutment settings.

If you change the AGW and recode it without comand i believe it may cause the amps to not "wake up" as its normally getting a signal from the comand unit.

That said , the second part i may be wrong with, however you don't need to re code the audio hardware of the car, just the cluster.

Regards

 

Why exactly do you want to disable the Comand? In my experience, if you just leave the setting in there (Comand present or other components present), even if you physically remove at item (like satellite radio) from the MOST bus, it will not throw an error unless you use SDS to scan for its presence. The time setting on Cluster can be set independent of Comand presence/absence .. at least with the SDS Developer version, it can.

 

Okay. I'll try to get the tech to do it while I'm around so I can ask him to change it back if the amp won't turn on.

By the way, do all the stereo/nav-related pages disappear when you de-select COMAND? ("Navi -----", "Radio Off", etc) Is there still a page to go to on the cluster where you can use both the Track and Volume controls on the steering wheel?

Thanks!

 

I don't actually have a Star diagnostic tool. I have to pay a tech to make the change(s).(indie shop) I'd rather enable clock setting via steering wheel control than to go back to the tech each time I want to adjust the time.

Also, I'd like to get rid of all the menus that no longer work/are relevant because the COMAND HU is now missing. (I get a "waiting for radio" message or something like that, and then I get a "----") I'd like to have a clean interface that looks correct. (without removing the ability to control Track and Volume via steering wheel on my new aftermarket stereo)

Let me know if I'm misunderstanding something, though.

Thanks for all the help!

Patrick

 

Does anyone know what kind for female fakra connector the FM antenna uses? I bought and ran the wrong style fakra cable to the front and need to buy an adapter.

 

Perhaps I wasn't clear here. The clock menu can be set or enabled using the SDS developer version. That way you always can set it yourself. I did not mean set the time using SDS. Recommend you install your Android system first and see what does not work first before taking it to your tech. Then it will be up to the tech to figure out which menus to disable or you can tell him/her.

 

Ah, okay. Makes sense. Thanks.

By the way, if I have the cluster set to non-COMAND or I just disable the COMAND-related menus and enable the clock adjust menu, will I still have a page on the cluster interface in which I can use the steering wheel controls for track change and volume control. In other words, right now, track change only works on the COMAND pages. If I switch to 'Settings', 'Fuel Range', etc, the up/down buttons cycle through the menus, rather than changing tracks. I want to make sure I don't eliminate the ability to use the steering wheel controls(both volume and track change).

Thanks!

 

I am not sure if others are having this issue but, when I switch cluster menu to CD/DVD and it controls the CD/MP3 track, when I change to any other menu such as MPG or temperature etc ... if I press the buttons on the steering, they will still change the track even though I am in a different menu, unlike the Comand where you can only change the track when you are in the Comand menu.

All I changed was this in order to set the cluster clock from the IC menu, I did not disable any other menu that I recall:

 

Okay. Thanks

 

When listening to MP3s using the stock Music app, does everyone see the full info (Artist - Song), or does everyone just see a track number and the time? Just wondering.

Also, does anyone know the style fakra connector for the radio hookup?

 

Please take a look at page 1. The 3rd picture down will show you what you need. fakra to din is I believe what you need. Something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AutoDAB-AD-E...0AAOSw0UdXsadu

They can be found much cheaper on Ebay, I just pasted the first suitable looking one I found.

However, not knowing what setup you have (Do you have AGW in the trunk?) and what cable did you already buy ... makes it difficult to advise you.

Look through OPs detailed post and you may find what you need there. If not post more details (and pics) and we can try to help you out.

 

Hi Guys,

I have a new question I was hoping one of you could help me with.

I was able to get the steering wheel controls to work with my 9" Android HU from eBay (similar to the Seicane one). I used the CANBUS interface box. The steering wheel controls are working great now.

Now, I'd like to add a few more media control and app shortcut buttons(physical buttons). I purchased a 12-button resistive keypad (resistance ladder). It has twelve buttons that each provide a different amount of resistance across it's two terminals. See photo attached. So, it operates exactly like resistive steering wheel controls. I was hoping to hook this up to Key 1 and Key 2 wires of the HU and use the steering wheel learning function(for resistive SWC). I assumed that I could use both the CANBUS steering wheel controls and the resistive button controls simultaneously.

I hooked up the 12-button resistive keypad last night and tried to have the HU learn those keys for different functions, and it wouldn't take. It didn't seem to recognize when I hit any of the resistive buttons. I would hit "Start", then I'd choose a function on the learning menu, and then I'd hit one of the resistive buttons. Nothing would happen. Then, I'd hit "End". The key was not learned. None of the resistive buttons seem to have been recognized/learned.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Do you happen to know if for some reason the HU can only take inputs from one or the other (CANBUS SWC or Resistive SWC), but not both? I'm not sure why that would be, but maybe the programmer assumed you'd only be using one or the other.(?) Or, some other reason?

Or, do you know if I'm doing something else wrong? Any help would be great.

Attached are some photos of the resistive SWC learning page on my HU and the resistive 12-button keypad I have.

Thanks!
Patrick

 

Any thoughts on this, by chance? Thanks!

 

How does it hook up? Through bluetooth, usb or direct to the Canbus?

btw, does anyone have an issue with a weak built-in microphone? People complain that it sounds like im talking in a tunnel.

If there isn't a tweak, i'll hook up a external mic i guess..

 

I think your first question was to me. If not, you can ignore : ) My actual steering wheel buttons are functional via the CANBUS interface box, and they work great. I'm now trying to use the 12-button resistive keypad that I bought as basically a second(additional) set of steering wheel controls (resistive buttons, rather than CANBUS). So, I've connected the two leads of the resistive keypad to the Key1 and Key2 leads of the head unit(HU). However, the steering wheel control(SWC) learning menu on the HU does not seem to recognize any of the buttons (it won't learn them). I don't know if this is because the HU is only set up to read only one or the other style SWC (CANBUS or resistive), but not both.

I was hoping someone might know whether or not this is a limitation of the HU, and/or whether there might be a way around that limitation - to get both CANBUS and resistive controls to work simultaneously. (so that I can have a few more physical buttons to take advantage of)

Thanks for your help!
Patrick

 

Try MTCDTools

http://forum.xda-developers.com/andr...ayers-t3436789

this might help as it can bind many functions to any button.