Alternator not charging after replacement
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Joined: Mar 2016
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2004 E55
Alternator not charging after replacement
I have an 04 E55. I have had an occasional "convenience features" warning pop up over the last couple months, usually when I have my aftermarket stereo turned up. The car has aftermarket air ride and a amplified stereo so it draws a lot of power. Here's a brief run down of everything I did:
-First I replaced the voltage regulator but still got the occasional warning.
-I then replaced the main battery because I wasn't sure when the previous owner had last replaced it and it didn't have a date on it.
-Then the system stopped charging and I got the red battery warning so I replaced the entire alternator with a DB Electric model ABO0337 from Amazon (new not reman).
-The car was running and charging but the voltage never got above 13.8. I was expecting to see it above 14.
-All of the sudden last night after performing great all day (and my wife was driving it so the stereo wasn't on!) I got the red battery warning. I checked voltage and it's not charging again. Voltage reads at 11.7 and slowly dropping if I turn things on.
-I figured it probably wasn't the problem but I went ahead and replaced aux battery that was 2 years old (I live in AZ so that's a long time).
So now I have two new batteries and a new alternator. The system is still not charging. The belt looks fine and I don't hear any slipping.
Could it really be another bad alternator after only a couple weeks? Is there something else upstream that could be causing the alternator to fail?
I'm not sure what else to check. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
-First I replaced the voltage regulator but still got the occasional warning.
-I then replaced the main battery because I wasn't sure when the previous owner had last replaced it and it didn't have a date on it.
-Then the system stopped charging and I got the red battery warning so I replaced the entire alternator with a DB Electric model ABO0337 from Amazon (new not reman).
-The car was running and charging but the voltage never got above 13.8. I was expecting to see it above 14.
-All of the sudden last night after performing great all day (and my wife was driving it so the stereo wasn't on!) I got the red battery warning. I checked voltage and it's not charging again. Voltage reads at 11.7 and slowly dropping if I turn things on.
-I figured it probably wasn't the problem but I went ahead and replaced aux battery that was 2 years old (I live in AZ so that's a long time).
So now I have two new batteries and a new alternator. The system is still not charging. The belt looks fine and I don't hear any slipping.
Could it really be another bad alternator after only a couple weeks? Is there something else upstream that could be causing the alternator to fail?
I'm not sure what else to check. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I wonder about your logic.
You measure that alternator is not giving charging voltage, yet you replaced the battery?
Those cars have crazy electronics and I had the "convenience" message for long time (vacations) when the car voltage was still about 14V. Turned out not torqued battery clamp bolt.
13.8V is normal charging voltage when everything is stabilized. Can go to 14V when you start the car and battery is discharged.
Anyway, where do you measure the voltage? Car display often shows 0.5V less than actual battery measurement.
You measure that alternator is not giving charging voltage, yet you replaced the battery?
Those cars have crazy electronics and I had the "convenience" message for long time (vacations) when the car voltage was still about 14V. Turned out not torqued battery clamp bolt.
13.8V is normal charging voltage when everything is stabilized. Can go to 14V when you start the car and battery is discharged.
Anyway, where do you measure the voltage? Car display often shows 0.5V less than actual battery measurement.
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
What is DB Electric?
Cheap aftermarket alternators are often garbage, I replace a lot of them at work that fail within a year or are bad right out of the box. I'd suggest a quality rebuild over a cheap new one, or a new OEM as the best solution but I know they are NOT cheap.
Cheap aftermarket alternators are often garbage, I replace a lot of them at work that fail within a year or are bad right out of the box. I'd suggest a quality rebuild over a cheap new one, or a new OEM as the best solution but I know they are NOT cheap.
Thread Starter
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2004 E55
I measured it by the dash display and with a volt meter on both batteries.
Thread Starter
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2004 E55
http://www.dbelectrical.com
They are based in Tennessee, and I bought it on Amazon for $175. The company had good reviews and were recommended on other forums...but I still had that thought in the back of my head that it was a gamble.
Even if it wasn't as good I hoped it would last more than a few weeks. I should have just paid for a reman Bosch I guess, then I could at least rule that out.
They are based in Tennessee, and I bought it on Amazon for $175. The company had good reviews and were recommended on other forums...but I still had that thought in the back of my head that it was a gamble.
Even if it wasn't as good I hoped it would last more than a few weeks. I should have just paid for a reman Bosch I guess, then I could at least rule that out.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 563
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From: The Villages, Florida
2006 E320 CDI
If it was a Bosch regulator that you installed in the last alternator, you could try swapping it out and see what happens. Personally, I think the parts from DB are junk. They had a starter priced at $126 for my diesel, no way would I put that in. And the alternator I found only put out 150 AMPS. Our vehicles need 200+ AMPS.
Mike T.
Mike T.
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2004 E55
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
What makes you guys thinking that Bosch VR will fit into Chinese alternator?
Sure worth trying if it takes few minutes, but out of curiosity I punch my car into db site.
The alternator that popped up will never fit my car.
Sure worth trying if it takes few minutes, but out of curiosity I punch my car into db site.
The alternator that popped up will never fit my car.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 597
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From: San Jose
2016 C450 AMG, 2009 C300, 2001 C320 2001 CLK430, 95 E500
I was just testing a 2018 E300, found this feature.. the thing that bugs me is if I put my iphone there (which has no internal NFC for charging Qi really) it constantly wants to activate apple pay, and the screen goes to my wallet and not on whatever is currently displayed - usually google maps..
If there some way to de-activate this entirely in the e class?
If there some way to de-activate this entirely in the e class?
Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 154
Likes: 14
From: Stockton CA
92 W124 500E, 93 W201 190E, 11 C207 E350, 05 W211 E55
Use only OEM Bosch or Valeo alternators with a OEM Varta battery.
We have seen all sorts of issues similar to yours with people using cheap aftermarket batteries and alternators. I guarantee a new OEM battery will last you way longer than 2 years. Typical life here is about 5-6 years+
We have seen all sorts of issues similar to yours with people using cheap aftermarket batteries and alternators. I guarantee a new OEM battery will last you way longer than 2 years. Typical life here is about 5-6 years+
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
05 E320 wagon
Bought a duralast gold alternator ,
Use only OEM Bosch or Valeo alternators with a OEM Varta battery.
We have seen all sorts of issues similar to yours with people using cheap aftermarket batteries and alternators. I guarantee a new OEM battery will last you way longer than 2 years. Typical life here is about 5-6 years+
We have seen all sorts of issues similar to yours with people using cheap aftermarket batteries and alternators. I guarantee a new OEM battery will last you way longer than 2 years. Typical life here is about 5-6 years+
Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 154
Likes: 14
From: Stockton CA
92 W124 500E, 93 W201 190E, 11 C207 E350, 05 W211 E55
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 633
Likes: 48
From: USA
2006 E320 CDI
I was just testing a 2018 E300, found this feature.. the thing that bugs me is if I put my iphone there (which has no internal NFC for charging Qi really) it constantly wants to activate apple pay, and the screen goes to my wallet and not on whatever is currently displayed - usually google maps..
If there some way to de-activate this entirely in the e class?
If there some way to de-activate this entirely in the e class?
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 633
Likes: 48
From: USA
2006 E320 CDI
What is DB Electric?
Cheap aftermarket alternators are often garbage, I replace a lot of them at work that fail within a year or are bad right out of the box. I'd suggest a quality rebuild over a cheap new one, or a new OEM as the best solution but I know they are NOT cheap.
Cheap aftermarket alternators are often garbage, I replace a lot of them at work that fail within a year or are bad right out of the box. I'd suggest a quality rebuild over a cheap new one, or a new OEM as the best solution but I know they are NOT cheap.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
C200 W204 Year 2012
I have a similar issue:
Mine is MB C200 W204 Year 2012 (engine M271)
I turned on the fancy feature to monitor the Voltage and Current on the dashboard.
All the lights, AC, radio are turned off.
- Initial battery voltage: 12.3V (I use new AMARON battery in July 2020)
- A while after starting the engine, the voltage drop to 11.5 V ( I think this is normal)
- Afterward, the voltage increase and reach 14.1V (current above 0)
- I start to turn on the radio, AC, and finally lights, the voltage still showing 13.6-13.9 V (current above zero)
- Shift the automatic tranmission lever from P to R, the voltage drop to 13 V (current drop to below zero around -2A)
- Shift again the automatic transmission lever from R to N, the voltage increase to 13.6-13.9V (the current back above zero)
- Shift again the automatic transmission lever from N to D, the voltage drop again to 12.3-12.4V (the current drop and fluctuate between +1 to -20 A)
After driving the car for about five minutes, the red engine warning light flashing and later car stall
After turn off everything, I ignite again and the engine is OK.
But the car will stall again after driving a while (like 5 minutes).
Do I need to replace the regulator for sure?
Thank you
Mine is MB C200 W204 Year 2012 (engine M271)
I turned on the fancy feature to monitor the Voltage and Current on the dashboard.
All the lights, AC, radio are turned off.
- Initial battery voltage: 12.3V (I use new AMARON battery in July 2020)
- A while after starting the engine, the voltage drop to 11.5 V ( I think this is normal)
- Afterward, the voltage increase and reach 14.1V (current above 0)
- I start to turn on the radio, AC, and finally lights, the voltage still showing 13.6-13.9 V (current above zero)
- Shift the automatic tranmission lever from P to R, the voltage drop to 13 V (current drop to below zero around -2A)
- Shift again the automatic transmission lever from R to N, the voltage increase to 13.6-13.9V (the current back above zero)
- Shift again the automatic transmission lever from N to D, the voltage drop again to 12.3-12.4V (the current drop and fluctuate between +1 to -20 A)
After driving the car for about five minutes, the red engine warning light flashing and later car stall
After turn off everything, I ignite again and the engine is OK.
But the car will stall again after driving a while (like 5 minutes).
Do I need to replace the regulator for sure?
Thank you
