Front suspension Pop - tie rods/upper BJ?
#1
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Thread Starter
Front suspension Pop - tie rods/upper BJ?
2008 E350 4Matic
I replaced lower arm, lower ball joint and sway bar link previously.
Its making a pop when coming off the driveway, or when the weight shifts onto the drivers side when I turn the wheel.
I'm replacing the upper control arm and ball joint either way, but now I'm considering doing the tie rods as well, because I'll have to get the car aligned and last thing I want is for the tie rods to head out soon and have to pay for another alignment.
I have 123k now. Does it make sense to do the tie rod ends as well? Or is it unlikely that tie rods will make a popping noise?
I replaced lower arm, lower ball joint and sway bar link previously.
Its making a pop when coming off the driveway, or when the weight shifts onto the drivers side when I turn the wheel.
I'm replacing the upper control arm and ball joint either way, but now I'm considering doing the tie rods as well, because I'll have to get the car aligned and last thing I want is for the tie rods to head out soon and have to pay for another alignment.
I have 123k now. Does it make sense to do the tie rod ends as well? Or is it unlikely that tie rods will make a popping noise?
#3
Senior Member
I have a horrible clunk on the passenger side. Only when going slow, entering my complex we have like a 1/4 curb, and it clunks every time over there. You can feel it in the floor board. Also will clunk if going under 15 mph and turning left. But will not do it just turning, making a right turn. It also will not clunk when turning left into my complex, but will turning right. (odd eh?)
I have replaced the following in the front:
Upper control arms/ball joints
Lower ball joints
CV shafts
Wheel bearings
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Sway bar end links.
My next step this weekend is to replace the actual sway bar bushings themselves as well as the motor mounts and transmission mount (which are shot). I plan to go to town under the car with a pry bar and see what I have movement in.
Only thing left up front is the lower control arm bushings, and the sway bar frame mount bushings. Everything else is brand new.
I have replaced the following in the front:
Upper control arms/ball joints
Lower ball joints
CV shafts
Wheel bearings
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Sway bar end links.
My next step this weekend is to replace the actual sway bar bushings themselves as well as the motor mounts and transmission mount (which are shot). I plan to go to town under the car with a pry bar and see what I have movement in.
Only thing left up front is the lower control arm bushings, and the sway bar frame mount bushings. Everything else is brand new.
#6
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
When did you do your brakes? I had a clunk also on the driver's side, went away after I did the front brake pads.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Popping noise would make me think its something internal inside the rack and pinion or it could be tie rods like you said, can you duplicate noise without moving? Ball joints squeak and clunk. LCA bushings could make a popping noise but usually if those are that bad fluid would be present usually. Could you post a video?
#9
Senior Member
Alright, so I didnt end up doing the sway bar frame bushings, as they were fine. I did do motor mounts and transmission mounts yesterday. As well as tightening every bolt in the front end of the car (outside of lower control arm cross member mounting points) as well as the three nuts on the top side of each strut mount. I cant say for sure what got rid of my clunk, but its now gone. Car rides SO much better with new mounts. Wow!
#10
Member
I have a horrible clunk on the passenger side. Only when going slow, entering my complex we have like a 1/4 curb, and it clunks every time over there. You can feel it in the floor board. Also will clunk if going under 15 mph and turning left. But will not do it just turning, making a right turn. It also will not clunk when turning left into my complex, but will turning right. (odd eh?)
I have replaced the following in the front:
Upper control arms/ball joints
Lower ball joints
CV shafts
Wheel bearings
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Sway bar end links.
My next step this weekend is to replace the actual sway bar bushings themselves as well as the motor mounts and transmission mount (which are shot). I plan to go to town under the car with a pry bar and see what I have movement in.
Only thing left up front is the lower control arm bushings, and the sway bar frame mount bushings. Everything else is brand new.
I have replaced the following in the front:
Upper control arms/ball joints
Lower ball joints
CV shafts
Wheel bearings
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Sway bar end links.
My next step this weekend is to replace the actual sway bar bushings themselves as well as the motor mounts and transmission mount (which are shot). I plan to go to town under the car with a pry bar and see what I have movement in.
Only thing left up front is the lower control arm bushings, and the sway bar frame mount bushings. Everything else is brand new.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Alright, so I didnt end up doing the sway bar frame bushings, as they were fine. I did do motor mounts and transmission mounts yesterday. As well as tightening every bolt in the front end of the car (outside of lower control arm cross member mounting points) as well as the three nuts on the top side of each strut mount. I cant say for sure what got rid of my clunk, but its now gone. Car rides SO much better with new mounts. Wow!
#12
Senior Member
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah sometimes they can be so collapsed torque causes engine to jump at times or the vehicle flexing over steep retarded made entrances. again other things could be the source as well but that does occur. The only other thing you didn't note that you have replaced is lca bushings. and of course rack and pinion. But glad you resolved issue.
I always tell people/friends that changing your engine suspension is going to make the car feel like a brand new car. Cabin vibrations drive me irate. 4matic 211 owners got it made though, them jokers (motor mounts) take about 7 minutes a side. A little bit of time and new mounts will make you fall in love all over again.
I always tell people/friends that changing your engine suspension is going to make the car feel like a brand new car. Cabin vibrations drive me irate. 4matic 211 owners got it made though, them jokers (motor mounts) take about 7 minutes a side. A little bit of time and new mounts will make you fall in love all over again.
#14
Senior Member
Yeah sometimes they can be so collapsed torque causes engine to jump at times or the vehicle flexing over steep retarded made entrances. again other things could be the source as well but that does occur. The only other thing you didn't note that you have replaced is lca bushings. and of course rack and pinion. But glad you resolved issue.
I always tell people/friends that changing your engine suspension is going to make the car feel like a brand new car. Cabin vibrations drive me irate. 4matic 211 owners got it made though, them jokers (motor mounts) take about 7 minutes a side. A little bit of time and new mounts will make you fall in love all over again.
I always tell people/friends that changing your engine suspension is going to make the car feel like a brand new car. Cabin vibrations drive me irate. 4matic 211 owners got it made though, them jokers (motor mounts) take about 7 minutes a side. A little bit of time and new mounts will make you fall in love all over again.
#15
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#16
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Thread Starter
reporting back upper arm did not solve noise.
going to disconnect sway bar to eliminate the bushings, then its either shocks/struts or tie rods/steering rack...
going to disconnect sway bar to eliminate the bushings, then its either shocks/struts or tie rods/steering rack...
#17
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