adnanx86

Hey guys

This is my first post! I have been lurking for a while

I have a problem with my E320 4MATIC sedan (2004) w211

Everything was fine on this car till 2 weeks ago, I took it to a carwash (after 6 months ) and the next day I got ABS, ESP lights come on, the car jerked and for a second and then stopped shifting. I think the guy used the powersprayer in the wheelwells and caused some water to go into some sensor. It's now only shifting 1st and 2nd (automatic transmission). I think its now in limp mode.

I went to an indy shop and he read it out with a snap-on reader (Ethos-Pro).

Basically it came back with the following faultcodes:

p2400
p2500
p2401
p2068
p2000
p20ca

They all seem to me be related to the speedsensors (googled it! I'm not a car guy, more a software engineer).

The indy wanted to charge 300 CAD / sensor which seems crazy since I checked online and the bosh ones are available for 100$ each (that price is without labour!!).

I would like to know if replacing the sensors would do the trick, if so which ones, since W211 has 4 speed/abs sensors.

Any advise is welcome!

Ed

Plutoe

Ask your indy to give you the complete story, ie the definitions of the faults which will tell him\you which sensor(s) are faulty!

adnanx86

So an update!

Meanwhile I bought a CRP123p creader to avoid going to indy every time for a readout.

I have replaced:

- New Rear speed sensors
- New Battery
- New conductor plate, gasket, filter, the plug, o-rings, checked every solenoid with an ohm meter

Reset TCU, ECU, ...

Always comes back with:

P2400 (Right rear wheel rpm signal sent from traction system via the can bus is implausible)
P2401 (Right rear wheel rpm signal sent from traction system via the can bus is implausible)
C147D (Check component L6/3 left rear speed sensor)
C143D (Check component L6/3 right rear speed sensor)
P2068 Fault stored in component N15/3 ETC [EGS] control unit

After the reset all the lights disappear, all faults are cleared from all control units. I take it for a spin and seems to have no issues electronically shifting gears up & down but I can see the ESP just blinking as if im losing traction and the rpms drop until it almost stalls due to the low rpms (and this starts right away at 1st gear 5km/h...).

It will shift up, rpm will drop, then it feels like the engine doesn't want to rev higher (protection i guess). After 5 minutes the ABS/ESP/CEL will come back and it will go to limp mode. Then it will shift normal between 1st & 2nd and stay there... (no esp blinking, normal rpms, ...)

Everything is right now pointing to the ABS/ESP module, wiring or sensors... but I could use some advise from you experts since im about to put a a blaze to it...

Maroc_Specops

Check ur tcu in passenger carpet for oil leaks. Just clean them and reconnect it. Sometimes this oxidizes.

Zaid Alobaidi

adnanx86

Ive already:
- cleaned the TCU contacts with spray, the unit looked dry and clean.
- Disconnected PML / ESP unit and visual inspection looked clean and dry.

I'm down to one option:

Remove rear wheels and disconnect the abs sensor cable and measure the volt AC current between the 2 points of the sensor while turning the wheel.
Then test if the cable coming to the sensor is having any voltage to pin down if its the reluctor rings or bad wiring.

Maroc_Specops

U need a new plastic brain. The part in wich solenoides connect.

adnanx86

I guess you are referring to the only plastic in the transmission which is the conductor plate. It's been replaced. Along with the plug, o-rings, filter and transmission fluid

Anyone has an angle on this?

Maroc_Specops

Egs52 tcu in passenger side carpet wel then.

adnanx86

Now you are just guessing.

Anyone with real insight?

konigstiger

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211...procedure.html

cmriv

you have CAN issues. Are you sure vehicle has correct conductor plate installed?

Sounds to me you need and SBC pump. WSS are directly wired to SBC. SBC then sends data to ESP module via CAN.

adnanx86

Update 1:
Tried: - Change out TCU, Changed out ESP module
Neither of these 2 solved the issue. But heck, they were cheap to replace (50 bucks each on ebay).
Cost: 100 CAD for both modules.
Result: No change! Still limp mode.


Update 2:
Changed out the reluctor rings, abs sensors and rotors on rear axle (the rotors were crusty, not related to issue), on both left & right side (REAR)

TLDR: Change out the reluctor rings and sensors! Issue resolved!

Total cost:
- 400 CAD for the replacement of reluctor rings & abs sensor (labor)
- 200 CAD for a set of new rotors (rear axle)
- 160 CAD + 40 cad shipping + 40 CAD import duty for RINGS+ABS sensors (both left & right on rear axle)

After all of this, I can say I'm a certified W211 expert...

adnanx86

To make it clear: Issue resolved. Feel free to msg me if you run into issues : Im now mercedes certified

pinebaron

Arctic Wolf

[QUOTE=adnanx86;7084251]Hey guys

This is my first post! I have been lurking for a while

I have a problem with my E320 4MATIC sedan (2004) w211

Everything was fine on this car till 2 weeks ago, I took it to a carwash (after 6 months ) and the next day I got ABS, ESP lights come on, the car jerked and for a second and then stopped shifting. I think the guy used the powersprayer in the wheelwells and caused some water to go into some sensor. It's now only shifting 1st and 2nd (automatic transmission). I think its now in limp mode.




Having the exact same problem... all of this happens just because the car wasn’t driven for 2 months... Abs light is on, ETS or something is on... and the speedometer stops working and sometimes stops changing gears... just wondering if I should change ABS sensor or just the rings...

scotterikson

Have you done any diagnostics? Had codes read?

Luis M

I was having the same issue with my e500 after replacing the sbc pump I got a abs light,esp defective visit workshop and the speedo was not working also my car was a little bit hesistant to get on drive after a while running and whenever I put on reverse it would take the gear but when I go back on drive It will stay neutral and won't shift at all and when on drive won't go more than 2nd gear,to get it running again I had to turn off the engine and turn it on again I was a little bit concerned I thought it was the abs magnetic ring because the code was throwing with star was related to a speed sensor in the back,then after trying to read codes from the esp modules there was not communication,went ahead and check the esp module and there was a broken line in it after soldering everything came back to normal no codes,no light and transmission got out of limp mode, I'm really lucky I would say.

Zerocool68

I am having similar problems on my E350 I will try my best to describe the issues to the best of my ability as there is so much going on. A couple of weeks back I lost my radio it stopped working all that would happen when I turned it on is after a long delay the MB splash screen would come on for about 10 seconds then go off. I now know that one of the system devices isn't passing the boot up testing causing the command center(Radio) not to turn on so I bought a optical shunt to troubleshoot the problem but hadn't got around to doing it yet. then I started getting SOS and Tel system failure messages on the dash and the check engine light came on. I read codes for crank position sensor and codes for cam sensors unfortunately I don't remember the code numbers. Ireplaced the crankshaft sensor but the codesfor the cam shaft remain the crankshaft code went away. So now yesterday I drove to the market 1/2 mile each direction during this short trip the car started running strangely. from being stopped at a red light the light turned green and I gave the car some gas and upon acceleration the transmission seemed to not so much slip but it was like it was being engaged then disengaged not like your normal slipping engine rpm didn't wind up like in a normal transmission slip it was like being switched on and off and if I gave it more gas it would kinda fall on its face but if I accelerated slowly it would slowly get up to speed. also when this is happening and the case is still and at idle if I try to rev the motor the light on the dash that is a triangle with and exclamation point would come on you would hear a slight "thunk" then rpms would drop back to idle and the warning light would go off but same thing if I revved it up it would thunk and the warning would come back on. nd parked the car. 2 hours later I get in the car and I got nothing . the remote would not do anything and when I inserted the key I couldn't turn it and if I removed the key and use the button on the shifter nothing happens and I try the key again and it starts but now I'm getting messages that my ABS pump has an issue also the speedtronic so I measure the voltage at the battery and it measured only 4 volts and the car is not drivable. Im sorry for this scattered explanation of my problems but there is no order in what I am experiencing and I don't even know what my next step is. its unreal howmany different things are setting off alarms all from a dead battery which how it was draind in 2 hours is crazy to me. any insight anyone please and thank you.

Update: Since I was feeling like a dummy for not posting the codes originally I went out and plugged in my scanner and no codes? funny that! so I turn the key , the instrument panel lights up but clunk, the battery is dead and my clock is running very fast in reverse so I'm at a loss I mean wtf is going on with the old girl ???

Zerocool68

I know I type like a 5 year old but Im trying pretty hard so I appreciate your patience. I have ADHD real bad and reading my post makes my brain hurt I will redo this on my computer and paste it here sorry

Zerocool68

Year 2007

Model E350 base
Since I’ve owned the car I have done the following.
05-18-2021 Replaced Water pump
05-24-2021 Check engine light came on, Replaced crankshaft position sensor. Light still on.
06-02-2021 Changed oil and related filters
06-12-2021 Radio stops powering on, messages about esp and speedtronic nonop,
06-12-2021 R&R brake switch, messages gone, Radio still non op, check engine light still on.
06-19-2021 Drove the car to the store and back. Parked car for 2 hours then the Battery was dead(4 volts), AAA jumped the car then checked charge system was operating close to 14 volts and the battery was taking a charge. I took the car for about a 30 minute drive everything seemed fine. Parked the car for a little bit the next drive the car started lighting up like a christmas tree. Information on the dash was speedtronic failure ,Abs Failure, and warning lights came on esp warning light came on and also the SRS indicator came on and the clock was running very fast in reverse. The transmission started to disengage and re engage from a stop to about 5 miles an hour it did this until I like feathered the gas pedal and slowly i could get it up to speed. At idle the Esp light would come on if i revved the motor a little, the motor would clunk the esp light would come on and rpms would drop back to idle and esp would go off. So many problems have come that I feel something needs to be reset due to the low voltage issue i had when the car wouldn’t start . is there anything to reset or is my car just having some kind of electrical meltdown?

konigstiger

No mention of using MB diagnostics to scan for codes if not I would suggest having someone do a quicktest using MB Xentry, erase all stored codes, and retest to hopefully get a definitive idea of what may be going on.

Zerocool68

I took the car to the dealership to have them run diagnostics on the car. the report only mention stuff like transmission mount, tire tread, oil leak, alignment, needs tires, just random maintenance stuff nothing about esp or sos or srs messages so I paid 215 dollars to be told I could use brakes and tires, are you kidding me? also they wanted to sell me a new battery at 600 bucks wtf so that was my diagnostics experience. not a single thing said about codes or error messages

vg609864

TLDR: Change out the reluctor rings and sensors! Issue resolved!

Total cost:
- 400 CAD for the replacement of reluctor rings & abs sensor (labor)
- 200 CAD for a set of new rotors (rear axle)
- 160 CAD + 40 cad shipping + 40 CAD import duty for RINGS+ABS sensors (both left & right on rear axle)

Do you have the part numbers for those items that solved the issue? Relutor rings &abs sensor?

konigstiger

Provide VIN.