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Interesting how MB wants you to disconnect the drive shaft so you can get at the top "filler" hole, then instructs you to look in the "inspection" hole to check the fluid level.
This was pointed out in another post. So basically as I understand it, you do not have to get at the "filler" hole and just add the fluid thru the "inspection" hole which is way easier to get at.
I can only assume they want you to add it thru the filler hole so fluid will seep down over the internal components? Just doesn't make sense
Interesting how MB wants you to disconnect the drive shaft so you can get at the top "filler" hole, then instructs you to look in the "inspection" hole to check the fluid level.
This was pointed out in another post. So basically as I understand it, you do not have to get at the "filler" hole and just add the fluid thru the "inspection" hole which is way easier to get at.
I can only assume they want you to add it thru the filler hole so fluid will seep down over the internal components? Just doesn't make sense
Hi,
I know this thread is a bit older, but I am currently going through the entire driveline with my recently acquired 2006 E350 4matic, and happen to have the transfer case on my bench right now. At first glance, I did feel the same way, but after having to remove the case anyways and open it up, it does make sense as to why they want you to fill from the top plug. There is a cavity up top that houses the planetary. It sits right behind the round cover plate where the top plug is located. Inside that planetary cavity, towards the back, is another oil passage that allows the oil to flow down into the lower part of the case. The passage is located around the 3 o'clock position. So, that being said, when you fill from up top, the oil first fills the planetary cavity until it reaches the oil passage hole, then it heads down to bottom of case and fills upwards until it starts weeping out of inspection port. In this way, you know you have all cavities correctly filled. It may or may not make much of a difference if you believe the upper cavity is still full when you do a drain and fill from below. But.... if the t- case is already low on oil, you wont be putting the full amount back in.
Ask me how I know? Well the previous owner did the same thing you describe. Never used the top plug, only the lower plugs. I could tell by the witness marks or lack thereof on the top one. I was chasing down a low growl in my driveline. When I finally got into the t-case, I found the needle bearings on the output shaft were destroyed from lack of oil. It also took out the output shaft splines from . Sorry so long winded, but hope this little story saves someone else the same fate. I'm learning quick on these MB issues. Some days I hate the car, others not so much.
I also should add that those parts I just mentioned that failed sit up high, and are the first to go dry when oil is low.
Rich
Last edited by warpedworld; 11-07-2017 at 01:39 PM.
Reason: added info
Thanks for the tip. I was wondering how much fluid is up inside there that may not get changed when you change the fluid from below. You would think that that fluid from the bottom gets pumped/ tossed up into the upper clutch pack casing area from below somehow and maintains that 3 o'clock sump level then. Am I understanding that even though you check the fluid level from the inspection port and it shows good there could be no fluid in the top section? IF there is an internal port at 3 o'clock that drains back into the lower section of the casing you would think that would drain over time through the hole due to movement of the vehicle and never get replenished if there was no way to pump/ splash fluid back up there? Sounds like there was another way the fluid from the top area was making it's way down into the bottom area of your T-Case and didn't provide enough of a continuous fluid bath up there?
Something is not making sense and now has me a bit worried. I put in the recommenced MB fluid in using the recommended verified level...hmmmm.
Hi all
I took my car to a new Mercedes mechanic that came highly recommended in NYC for a transfer case fluid change, and after he emptied the fluid out of my case it turned out he only had Manual Transmission oil, SAE 75W-90, Actros, and he used that. I argued that I thought there was a different fluid needed but he told me it is fine and there was an MB guideline out specifying the oil he used as a better choice. I cannot find any such reference anywhere, if anyone knows if it is ok please let me know as I am not sure at all.
2006 E350 4MATIC vin WDBUF87J16X200235
thank you
Redwood are you saying the the gear oil 75W-90 is fine in the transfer case despite the 236.13 call for ATF?
Konigstiger, how could one flush the gear oil out of the transfer case before going back to ATF 236.13?
thank you both
Thank you Konigstiger, my concern is if the gear oil being so thick adheres on the transfer case parts and does not drain out adequately, and then does not mix well with the 236.13 ATF. Fill transfer case with ATF and then empty again to flush?
If the spec sheet says ATF I would definitely roll with that. I know on most domestic applications for transfer cases it is usually ATF so that makes sense. to rule out any confusion call your dealer parts counter, have them plug in your VIN# and they will tell you a definitive answer.
# 001989230310 is the correct ATF, bottle is blue.. "transfer case fluid", correct fluid for our W211s ....I will use my Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 that I have left over
and the yellow bottle is also transfer case oil but it is "hyphoid oil" which is gear oil, used in ML/w163 among other cars.....the 75w85w which our dif's would be happy with but not transfer case
08-10-2017, 07:43 AM
