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I am currently doing all sorts of front end suspension replacements. My question is when I bought right and left Front Lower Control Arm Forward/Thrust Arm/Torque Strut, I also bought new eccentric bolts.
How do these install? I was planning on installing same way as old, but only 1 side turned out to have an eccentric bolt, and not sure how it was installed anyway. I assume the grove lines up with the tab inside the bushing? But which?
I'm planning on taking it for an alignment after it is all put together, so perhaps it doesn't matter too much?
Other things replaced: Lower main control arm, sway bar end links, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods
*If* the new suspension components are in manufacturing tolerance, with the eccentric bolt slot in the vertical position, and your suspension is calibrated properly so the front control arm angles are between 3.1 and 4.1 degrees, your camber should fall into -1.4 degrees +/-0.3 degrees. If the camber does not fall into that range, you set the slots in the eccentric bolts to the horizontal position to either pull the control arm in (adding positive camber) or to push the control arm out (adding negative camber). So, install the bolts, measure, and be advised you may need to pull the bolts out and rotate them to correct the alignment.
Like Plutoe says, lots of good info on startekinfo. I read that stuff in my spare time just to learn about my E55s. I have no idea how Mercedes techs can keep up with all the different models and years. My hat is off to those guys...
2014 Mercedes Bnez GL500, 2016 Mercedes Benz CLA45 AMG
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
*If* the new suspension components are in manufacturing tolerance, with the eccentric bolt slot in the vertical position, and your suspension is calibrated properly so the front control arm angles are between 3.1 and 4.1 degrees, your camber should fall into -1.4 degrees +/-0.3 degrees. If the camber does not fall into that range, you set the slots in the eccentric bolts to the horizontal position to either pull the control arm in (adding positive camber) or to push the control arm out (adding negative camber). So, install the bolts, measure, and be advised you may need to pull the bolts out and rotate them to correct the alignment.
Like Plutoe says, lots of good info on startekinfo. I read that stuff in my spare time just to learn about my E55s. I have no idea how Mercedes techs can keep up with all the different models and years. My hat is off to those guys...
Hmm, My bolts, suspension and frame does not match your picture. This is an 2005 e55, what am I missing. I'll take pictures later tonight. This might help.
Hmm, My bolts, suspension and frame does not match your picture. This is an 2005 e55, what am I missing. I'll take pictures later tonight. This might help.
You were asking about the eccentric bolts so I posted a diagram illustrating how they work. Different suspension pieces but same theory of adjustment.
Bolt 165 in Konigstiger's illustration primarily affects caster but has minor effect on camber. Bolt 115 primarily affects camber but has minor effect on caster. The angle of the control arms 110 grossly affects camber. That angle is set by inflating/deflating the front air springs until the desired angle is reached, confirming the sensor voltage is within range, then entering the control arm angle into the calibration tables via Star.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Feb 8, 2018 at 10:17 AM.
2014 Mercedes Bnez GL500, 2016 Mercedes Benz CLA45 AMG
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
You were asking about the eccentric bolts so I posted a diagram illustrating how they work. Different suspension pieces but same theory of adjustment.
Bolt 165 in Konigstiger's illustration primarily affects caster but has minor effect on camber. Bolt 115 primarily affects camber but has minor effect on caster. The angle of the control arms 110 grossly affects camber. That angle is set by inflating/deflating the front air springs until the desired angle is reached, confirming the sensor voltage is within range, then entering the control arm angle into the calibration tables via Star.
What you showed makes sense. What I'm looking at doesn't. Pics to come when I get time.
Looking at the photo, the sub-frame of the W211 is different from the W210 which has the tabs and notches. The part number you have shows in the EPC as "TS Bolt Parts Kit, for adjusting work only" and is listed for the W211 under the "185" parts number in Konigstiger's diagram.
At this point, I wonder if the bolt has no effect on the positioning of the control and thrust arms. The camber would be set by calibrating the suspension to the control arm angles in the front and the axle half-shaft angles in the rear. Remember that the only setting that can be easily changed by an alignment shop is the front and rear toe.
I have a set of new bushings and eccentric bolts at home in the garage; I'll play with them tonight as I'm trying to figure out why an "adjusting work" parts kit is sold that appears to not actually adjust anything..
2014 Mercedes Bnez GL500, 2016 Mercedes Benz CLA45 AMG
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Looking at the photo, the sub-frame of the W211 is different from the W210 which has the tabs and notches. The part number you have shows in the EPC as "TS Bolt Parts Kit, for adjusting work only" and is listed for the W211 under the "185" parts number in Konigstiger's diagram.
At this point, I wonder if the bolt has no effect on the positioning of the control and thrust arms. The camber would be set by calibrating the suspension to the control arm angles in the front and the axle half-shaft angles in the rear. Remember that the only setting that can be easily changed by an alignment shop is the front and rear toe.
I have a set of new bushings and eccentric bolts at home in the garage; I'll play with them tonight as I'm trying to figure out why an "adjusting work" parts kit is sold that appears to not actually adjust anything..
Agree. Nothing really is adjustable at this point. I didn't think about the fact that you probably need STAR to help with the alignment. I guess a "normal" alignment shop wouldn't be the path for a true alignment when I'm all done with this?
Agree. Nothing really is adjustable at this point. I didn't think about the fact that you probably need STAR to help with the alignment. I guess a "normal" alignment shop wouldn't be the path for a true alignment when I'm all done with this?
Pretty much true. The shop can set the front and rear toe, yes. Camber requires STAR, an inclinometer (can be an app on your cell phone) and an absolutely level surface (use a water level and floor tiles under the tires as needed). Here's a post giving one an idea of how to calibrate it. If you have access to STAR, or a friend with STAR, and an absolutely level surface, it will take under an hour. Otherwise, you have to take it to the dealer for calibration, then the "alignment" will set the front and rear toe. On the plus side, once calibrated you should be good for years. I had to calibrate mine after installing Arnott air springs on all four corners and the ride height changed. https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost.php?p=6873199&postcount=1034
Alternatively, in the front you could use KMac bushings but that is a pretty pricey option.
EDIT: Before attempting to calibrate the suspension, just check the front and rear camber. So long as the camber is within specs and side-to-side ride height relatively close (within 1/2" is my personal requirement), no need to calibrate, just set the toe.
You can use a camber gauge app downloaded to your cell phone (aka an inclinometer app) and a piece of aluminum square tubing cut to length so it extends across the wheel but not onto the rubber of the tire.
-1.4 degrees +/- 0.3 degrees front
-1.7 degrees +/-0.5 degrees rear
Last edited by bbirdwell; Feb 12, 2018 at 02:23 PM.
Finally found the information on how to use the eccentric bolts in a W211; very different than the W210/208. WWayman on the other forum posted this photo at this link: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...ml#post4448248
FWIW, this makes sense on a steel spring setup but I would verify control arm and axle angles are within spec on the airmatic before installing these.
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