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Mercedes Shifter Module Internal Repair

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E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Mercedes Shifter Module Internal Repair

 
Old 03-11-2018, 10:05 AM
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Mercedes Shifter Module Internal Repair






I repaired my failed shifter module in our W211 E500 wagon. I found two cracked solder joints on an SMD sensor inside the module. This internal cracked solder issue may affect other similar MB shifter modules or may have be unique to my shifter module. The repair is a bit technical but not out the realm of ability for someone with some hand tools and a soldering iron.

I had to remove the shifter module/ assembly from the car and then disassemble it to do so. This requires partial removal of the console to get at the shifter module.

Codes displayed on diagnosis equipment will be P1856 and P240C. Symptoms include but may not be limited to inability to move the selector from Park or from Neutral to Park, car only runs in 1st gear, not being able to remove the key due to inability to move the gear selector into park, not being able to start the car due to the computer not knowing what gear the vehicle is in and/or no gear position shown in the digital dash display.

After the shifter module is removed from the vehicle it will need to be disassembled for access to a black electronic switch/ sensor module that is bolted onto the side of the main shift lever pivot frame. The shift lever will need to be moved as required to allow the black electronic switch/ sensor module to be released from the main shift lever pivot frame as there are pins on the shift lever shaft that need to be clocked at 9 & 3 o'clock so the black electronic switch/ sensor module will slide off the shift lever shaft. The shift lever can be unlocked and moved simply by pushing on the solenoid "button" that faces rearward on the shifter module frame. Disconnect any remaining wire connectors and remove the two torx screws that hold the black electronic switch/ sensor module. The black electronic switch/ sensor module will slide off the shift lever shaft.

Next remove (4) tiny torx screws that hold the cover on one side of the black electronic switch/ sensor module. I did not have any tiny torx wrenches so I used Allen keys and small jeweler screwdrivers. NOTE:Keep an eye on how the cover comes apart so you will understand how to put it back together keeping the internal pivoting center piece aligned with a white plastic slider switch catch that is located on the other side of the black electronic switch/ sensor module.

Now get out a good high powered Lupe or magnifying glass and inspect the (4) U-shaped black plastic devices soldered to the PC board. These devices are actually photo-optic light sensors that the internal pivoting center piece slides through. That is why there are these light blocking fences on that internal pivoting center piece I my case there were two cracked solder joints on one of these U-shaped black plastic photo-optic light sensors. I simply used a low power 15 watt soldering iron to re-solder these two cracked solder joints, re-assembled everything and the problem with the failed transmission shifter module was solved.
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Old 03-11-2018, 11:24 AM
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:22 PM
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Wow Good spotting.
Around the early 2000 MB(and others) started specking eco friendly solder, it has all kids of issues that were unheard of before.
Just saw same solder fail on son's 2006 Jetta.
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Sleeper Benz View Post





I repaired my failed shifter module in our W211 E500 wagon. I found two cracked solder joints on an SMD sensor inside the module. This internal cracked solder issue may affect other similar MB shifter modules or may have be unique to my shifter module. The repair is a bit technical but not out the realm of ability for someone with some hand tools and a soldering iron.

I had to remove the shifter module/ assembly from the car and then disassemble it to do so. This requires partial removal of the console to get at the shifter module.

Codes displayed on diagnosis equipment will be P1856 and P240C. Symptoms include but may not be limited to inability to move the selector from Park or from Neutral to Park, car only runs in 1st gear, not being able to remove the key due to inability to move the gear selector into park, not being able to start the car due to the computer not knowing what gear the vehicle is in and/or no gear position shown in the digital dash display.

After the shifter module is removed from the vehicle it will need to be disassembled for access to a black electronic switch/ sensor module that is bolted onto the side of the main shift lever pivot frame. The shift lever will need to be moved as required to allow the black electronic switch/ sensor module to be released from the main shift lever pivot frame as there are pins on the shift lever shaft that need to be clocked at 9 & 3 o'clock so the black electronic switch/ sensor module will slide off the shift lever shaft. The shift lever can be unlocked and moved simply by pushing on the solenoid "button" that faces rearward on the shifter module frame. Disconnect any remaining wire connectors and remove the two torx screws that hold the black electronic switch/ sensor module. The black electronic switch/ sensor module will slide off the shift lever shaft.

Next remove (4) tiny torx screws that hold the cover on one side of the black electronic switch/ sensor module. I did not have any tiny torx wrenches so I used Allen keys and small jeweler screwdrivers. NOTE:Keep an eye on how the cover comes apart so you will understand how to put it back together keeping the internal pivoting center piece aligned with a white plastic slider switch catch that is located on the other side of the black electronic switch/ sensor module.

Now get out a good high powered Lupe or magnifying glass and inspect the (4) U-shaped black plastic devices soldered to the PC board. These devices are actually photo-optic light sensors that the internal pivoting center piece slides through. That is why there are these light blocking fences on that internal pivoting center piece I my case there were two cracked solder joints on one of these U-shaped black plastic photo-optic light sensors. I simply used a low power 15 watt soldering iron to re-solder these two cracked solder joints, re-assembled everything and the problem with the failed transmission shifter module was solved.
May I ask if you floor shifter is put together by screws or by glue? Mine is glued firmly together and I am wondering how I can take them apart...


glued at the red arrow pointed areas another 2 on the other side
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