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I looked up the code and found this:
P2090 - Component Y49/7 (Right camshaft exhaust solenoid) has a short circuit to ground.
P2090 - Component Y49/6 (Left camshaft exhaust solenoid) has a short circuit to ground.
Disconnecting the right exhaust solenoid connector and the error code changed from P2090 to:
P0013 - Component Y49/7 (Right camshaft exhaust solenoid) has an open circuit in the wiring.
P0013 - Component Y49/6 (Left camshaft exhaust solenoid) has an open circuit in the wiring.
I'm a bit confused. If there's a short in the wiring, I would think that the short would remain when I unplug the cable to the camshaft adjuster magnet. If there's a short in the camshaft adjuster magnet, then I would think that the error would move from the exhaust magnet to the intake magnet when I swap them.
I got a multimeter and tested all the camshaft adjuster magnets and the wires to those magnets.
The resistance of all 4 camshaft adjuster magnets is around 9.3 Ohms. There is no connection to ground in any of the camshaft adjuster magnets.
When I tested the wires, there is no connection between the wires, and there's no connection between either wire and ground for the wires leading to all 4 camshaft adjuster magnets.
With the engine running I tested the voltage on the wires leading to all 4 camshaft adjuster magnets and the results are identical on all of them. The results is 0.84V between the two wires. Also, there's 0.84v between one of each of the pairs of wires and ground. And finally there's about 0.04v between the other of each of the pairs of wires to ground.
I suppose the next step is to look at the signals on an oscilloscope and see what shows up.
So far it appears that there's absolutely nothing wrong with this car, and yet it's still showing a P2090 code. When I clear the code, it comes back after 2 restarts. On the first restart, the P2090 code shows up in pending codes, and on the second restart it's back in the stored codes.
The dealer also swapped the right intake and exhaust camshaft adjuster magnet and experienced the same results and they also tried to fix it by changing the oil and filter with no success.
I removed the right exhaust camshaft adjuster magnet and pushed on the plunger on the camshaft solenoid valve to see if it was stuck, and it wasn't. It's quite easy to push, and it springs right back like it should.
Last I checked the alignment of the left and right intake camshafts according to the following YouTube video to make sure they're properly aligned.
The oil was fine. It was changed by the dealer, then changed 3 times by me after the dealer changed it. I also tried using some engine flush additives to clean the engine internals. It didn't make any difference.
I also swapped the intake and exhaust cam solenoids and it made no difference.
Regarding the timing marks. I tried my best to align the camera with the hole, but because things are in the way, it's impossible to get it perfectly aligned. When I look at it the marks actually do appear to be centered. I need a camera with an LED on the end so that I can get closer to the hole to take a better picture.
You might be right about the cam adjuster being bad. Any idea how I can test that? I already removed the cam solenoid and pressed on the button in the middle of the cam adjuster and it was quite easy to press. I believe all the button does is redirect oil inside the cam adjuster which causes the cam to move. I suppose it's possible that something got lodged inside the cam adjuster causing it to stick.
I found these two videos. It's not the same engine, but it appears that the parts are nearly the same. It does look like a bad or stuck cam adjuster could cause the same symptoms as a bad cam solenoid. The question is, how much do I have to take this engine apart in order to replace the cam adjuster? Can I do it by removing the small front cover only, or do I have to remove the entire camshaft cover? It seems like I might be able to remove the chain tensioner, then remove the exhaust cam adjuster and replace it without opening the whole engine.
amazon link is an adjuster, yes, but I would not recommend buying aftermarket internal engine components...
small front covers and valve covers would have to be removed.
Before you do anything though you really need to find DAS/Xentry. Actual values need to be inspected. By it saying you have a short circuit kinda makes me weary like you might have a possible bad ME.
Look at actual values some how some way.
Remove front covers and inspect timing.
If timing is dead on, I wouldn't be chasing anything mechanical.....
Took it to an independent mechanic and paid $200 to have it reprogrammed for the car. They had to send it to the dealer.
There are 4 different model numbers for the ECM for this car, so if you have a similar issue, make sure you get the right one. The number is printed on bottom of your existing ECM.
04-20-2018, 10:01 PM
