E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

First DIY Oil change torque specs E550

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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 08:54 AM
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2007 Mercedes Benz E550
First DIY Oil change torque specs E550

I have a 2007 E550 and am doing my first oil change on it this week. I got 2 5qt mobil1 0w40 oil, and a mann filter, still trying to track down a copper drain-plug washer.... I am having trouble finding a good source for torque specs for the oil filter and the drain plug. I have seen 18 or 22 ft-lbs mentioned for both. Anyone have any idea if this is accurate?
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 11:26 AM
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by konigstiger


Man you rock! THANKS!
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 01:57 PM
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That´s correct - the oil filter-spec is also written directly on the cap (25 Nm = 18 ft-lb).

I´ve just posted my first YouTube-tutorial on exactly this oil change (in Europe our car ist badged as an E500 even with the 5.5 liter V8...)
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AUTOdidact
That´s correct - the oil filter-spec is also written directly on the cap (25 Nm = 18 ft-lb).

I´ve just posted my first YouTube-tutorial on exactly this oil change (in Europe our car ist badged a E500 even with the 5.5 liter V8...)
Awesome! Happen to have the link handy? It might help me out!
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kss86
Awesome! Happen to have the link handy? It might help me out!
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AUTOdidact
Answers all the questions and shows everything perfectly. Truly and amazing video! Thanks man!
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 09:10 PM
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This will be your opportunity to learn the hard way that vacuuming the oil out the dipstick tube is the preferred method. It’s kind of why the filter is also accessible from above. It’s a German car.
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lkchris
This will be your opportunity to learn the hard way that vacuuming the oil out the dipstick tube is the preferred method. It’s kind of why the filter is also accessible from above. It’s a German car.
Is that really the preferred way??. I guess it would save having to buy/use more copper washers dfor the drain plug, and then you don't have to jack it up, and also don't have to crawl under and also don't have to take the skidplates off.... Hmm yeah that does seem a lot better lol.
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by kss86
Is that really the preferred way??. I guess it would save having to buy/use more copper washers dfor the drain plug, and then you don't have to jack it up, and also don't have to crawl under and also don't have to take the skidplates off.... Hmm yeah that does seem a lot better lol.
At least it's the preferred method at official Mercedes workshops (other workshops always drain) here in Europe. They save time and still charge us enough money.
I doubt all the dirt (that collects at the bottom of the oil pan) comes out with that so I do it old school.

Last edited by AUTOdidact; Mar 8, 2019 at 02:55 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by AUTOdidact
That´s correct - the oil filter-spec is also written directly on the cap (25 Nm = 18 ft-lb).

I´ve just posted my first YouTube-tutorial on exactly this oil change (in Europe our car ist badged as an E500 even with the 5.5 liter V8...)

So I went to change the oil today and turns out my Jack couldn't get my car up high enough to get my Jack stands under the side jack spot under the front doors, and I don't feel safe crawling under with just the jack holding it up. So I bought the car ramps linked in your video. Hopefully they work out better. Thanks for your help and video!
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Old Mar 10, 2019 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kss86
So I went to change the oil today and turns out my Jack couldn't get my car up high enough to get my Jack stands under the side jack spot under the front doors, and I don't feel safe crawling under with just the jack holding it up. So I bought the car ramps linked in your video. Hopefully they work out better. Thanks for your help and video!
You're welcome! I made an opposite experience with the ramps and my 1998 Seville (they don't fit underneith), will have to use a jack there...

Last edited by AUTOdidact; Mar 10, 2019 at 03:22 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 06:23 PM
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Well got the ramps, everything went great. Very messy though, might have to buy the pump and try sucking out the dip stick next time, that would have been MUCH easier for sure and likly less messy. Oh well should all work out ok!
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AUTOdidact

I´ve just posted my first YouTube-tutorial on exactly this oil change (in Europe our car ist badged as an E500 even with the 5.5 liter V8...)
I watched your YouTube Video. Very informative (step by step and the links where to buy the copper oil drain washer, tools, etc.).

Vielen Dank
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 10:36 PM
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Copper, copper, copper reminds me of the *****in rides where the guy wanted Dave to do his ride in copper!
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Old Mar 13, 2019 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by kss86
Well got the ramps, everything went great. Very messy though, might have to buy the pump and try sucking out the dip stick next time, that would have been MUCH easier for sure and likly less messy. Oh well should all work out ok!
Buy a fumoto valve and enjoy the mess free oil changes. I have them on every one of our vehicles. I believe I used the newer style for our w211 due to the oil pan design/hole. This is what I used:
http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?p...partnumber=106



The oldest valve that I have is on my 05' STi. It's been on there since new, so 14 years. No drips or leaks. Functions as the day I bought it. I still like to drain the oil from the bottom due to inspecting other things. I have a lift in my garage so I don't have a problem getting the car in the air, but it also gives me time to look at suspension components and see if there are any leaks from anything else, rather than finding out the hard way and having something grenade on itself from never checking.

-Nigel
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Old Mar 13, 2019 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy
Buy a fumoto valve and enjoy the mess free oil changes. I have them on every one of our vehicles. I believe I used the newer style for our w211 due to the oil pan design/hole. This is what I used:
http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?p...partnumber=106
In fact it doesn´t need to be messy at all if you wear disposable gloves, place a piece of paper/ plastic/ wood between the drain plug and the car´s frame when opening the plug and hold it there for a while.

The drained oil inside the drain pan and getting rid of this is the bigger mess...
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Old Mar 13, 2019 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AUTOdidact
In fact it doesn´t need to be messy at all if you wear disposable gloves, place a piece of paper/ plastic/ wood between the drain plug and the car´s frame when opening the plug and hold it there for a while.

The drained oil inside the drain pan and getting rid of this is the bigger mess...

The only 'messy' part was when first opening the drain plug. It shot out with a lot of force, overshooting the drain pan by a few inches. Only happened for a fraction of a second until I could move the drain to catch it properly. Luckily I had layed cardboard down since I had anticipated something like that may happen. So had oil on the card board, on the side/bottom of the pan, etc. But after it was all done just folded up and threw out the cardboard. So, all in all not too bad just not as smooth as I'd hoped lol.


Also, maybe because mine is a 2007, or because it is not a 4matic, but I did not have any obstructing frame by my valve, it came out without hitting anything (except the cardboard on the ground for a brief second, then the pan).... or maybe it did.... now I cant remember

Last edited by kss86; Mar 13, 2019 at 08:37 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2019 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by kss86
The only 'messy' part was when first opening the drain plug. It shot out with a lot of force, overshooting the drain pan by a few inches.
Aha, so you didn´t follow my video in this point

It seems at non-4matic-models there isn´t a frame besides. Mine is also a MY 2007 (facelift), but production date was 2006.

PS: Congrats to the 7G-tronic, I also would like to have one in my W211.

Last edited by AUTOdidact; Mar 13, 2019 at 08:54 AM.
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Old Mar 14, 2019 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by AUTOdidact
Aha, so you didn´t follow my video in this point

It seems at non-4matic-models there isn´t a frame besides. Mine is also a MY 2007 (facelift), but production date was 2006.

PS: Congrats to the 7G-tronic, I also would like to have one in my W211.
Yea the 7G-tronic is pretty nice! I like it! Would have liked to have the 4matic though in some of the snow storms around me this year!

One last question.....What oil change interval do you use? I have seen/heard tons of different intervals. The packaging of the mobil1 0w40 says it is guaranteed for 15k miles, the original maintenance schedule for my car that I found on the internets say 13k, I have seen 7500 on forums.... and the place I bought it from had said 5000 (these are all in miles by the way). I was thinking of doing every 10k miles. Car has 91k miles on it, if that makes any difference (it is getting up in miles which I have heard is a good idea to shorten your oil change interval to better protect/prolong what engine life is left).
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Old Mar 14, 2019 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by kss86
Yea the 7G-tronic is pretty nice! I like it! Would have liked to have the 4matic though in some of the snow storms around me this year!
The day I purchased my car and first drove it at highway speed I was convinced 5th gear is missing because at 130 km/h (= 80 mph) it runs at around 2.800 rpm and I only recognized 3 shifts (in C-mode ist starts in 2nd). As a result fuel consumption is around 50 % higher than on my previous S-Type V8 with the ZF 6-speed automatic...

One last question.....What oil change interval do you use?
My car´s previous owner stretched the intervals to the maximum of 20.000 km (12.400 miles) as I also did the first two times after I acquired it at 100.000 km. The third interval was 15.000 km and the last now 10.000 km for no special reason.

I use the car only on longer distances and the engine always gets warmed up so an interval of 15.000 or 20.000 should be ok as well.

Some people here in Europe argue that engine oil can´t get bad at all as long it´s filtered and additives are added regularely. There may be some truth in that...

Kent Bergsma on his YouTube channel ("Mercedessource") suggests to stretch the intervals but to replace the oil filter once in between to keep the oil clean - also an interesting thought.
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