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Every winter my airmatic warning comes on. I read the code and it says "airmatic leak" or something like that.
The problem only exists when it gets cold and isnt really an issue until it's super cold. At that point the leak is so bad that one side or another of the car gets stuck and cant come up.
I have determined that the culprit must be the valve block since it is solid metal and is changing shape with temperature. My question is, does anyone have any insight on changing this part?
What I'm really stuck on is how I will recharge the system after replacing the new valve.. since I'll be on 4 jack stands, could I just lower the front of the car below ride height from the middle with the jack to kick on the level censor and recharge the front half, then do the same for the back half?
Definitive diagnose have someone pull fault codes using MB diagnostics. Check for leak(s) keep in mind struts have internal valves/solenoids that often fail requiring complete strut replacement. Also note, struts should be replaced in pairs @ 50,000 miles (~ 80,000 km) >.
OP, the Airmatic has a "locking function"; if the wheels are unloaded (as on a lift) while the vehicle is stationary, the strut valves remain closed. Assuming the struts are good, they will maintain pressure while you work on the rest of the system.
The repair process is clear and outlined in MB WIS--subscribe or use the questionable FUYAA
y36/6 central reservoir charge valve does not contain any repair or replace instructions in WIS. The corresponding part does have a remove/replace page in the w220 section but not for w211. You seem like you are kind of being a dick for some reason?
OP, the Airmatic has a "locking function"; if the wheels are unloaded (as on a lift) while the vehicle is stationary, the strut valves remain closed. Assuming the struts are good, they will maintain pressure while you work on the rest of the system.
In the w220 section of WIS where it discusses replacing this part it says "the wheels must not touch the ground while pressurizing because the air bellows in the suspension strut will be destroyed if pressurized with the suspension deflected"
EDIT: it also explicitly says to bleed the system so maybe if I don't do that it won't depressurize? But I am expecting all the air to come out as soon as I loosen the connections to the valve.
In the w220 section of WIS where it discusses replacing this part it says "the wheels must not touch the ground while pressurizing because the air bellows in the suspension strut will be destroyed if pressurized with the suspension deflected"
EDIT: it also explicitly says to bleed the system so maybe if I don't do that it won't depressurize? But I am expecting all the air to come out as soon as I loosen the connections to the valve.
That's for inflating an empty air spring. Same procedure as for the W211.
Download the attachment. My previous post referred to page 24.
That's for inflating an empty air spring. Same procedure as for the W211.
Download the attachment. My previous post referred to page 24.
Ahh fantastic, thanks for sharing that!
As long as I put it up on 4 stands so the wheels are unloaded I should be able to swap out the block without the struts deflating. I will try to lower it off the stands slowly just in case, but that should take care of the biggest piece of uncertainty for me in that I don't have to figure out how to re-pressurize the system.
Thanks again..
Cheers
I swapped out the leveling gizmo on the rear axle and once I lowered the car and started it back up it pressurized itself just fine.
That said, you can open the valves on the individual air springs with this thing (photo). It uses a readily available connector for a servo for model airplanes (any hobby shop) and a 12V battery. I made this up when I swapped out the air springs for Arnott units and needed to empty/depressurize them for removal..
10-30-2019, 10:40 AM
