Black Death
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 14
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2005 E-320 CDI
Black Death
I bought a 2005 MB E-320 CDI, with 286K on the odometer. I test drove it, and was satisfied enough to skip the contract cancellation, living in the Bay Area. Now, I discovered this 'black death' syndrome and am a little paranoid about having to deal with this - but that's life. I hear some noise, and smell a whiff of diesel - so likely needs injector inspection. I am not a DIY guy, so am at the mercy of the good grace of a mechanic. Also needs fuel filter (last one was 40K miles ago), transmission flush (80k miles ago) and glow plugs (100k miles ago).
Anyone ever run into this issue? I have half a mind to just drive it into the ground, since I only paid 9k; but I like the idea of this engine lasting forever.
Anyone ever run into this issue? I have half a mind to just drive it into the ground, since I only paid 9k; but I like the idea of this engine lasting forever.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,745
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From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
286K... is that miles or kilometers?
Black death isn't too hard to deal with, and is a well documented issue on this forum.
This post has me thinking I need to list my '05 CDI with 172,000 miles for $10K. No black death, fresh ball joints and alignment, considerably quicker than my '13 E350.
Black death isn't too hard to deal with, and is a well documented issue on this forum.
This post has me thinking I need to list my '05 CDI with 172,000 miles for $10K. No black death, fresh ball joints and alignment, considerably quicker than my '13 E350.
Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 161
Likes: 33
From: Orlando, Florida
2005 E320 CDI (SOLD); 2008 ML320 CDI 4MATIC
Level of difficulty depends on how far back injector(s) leaking is/are located on engine imho with #6 being worst because gets hottest & hardest to reach. Be sure to put ya hood up in service mode. A seized injector usually has to end up being removed with a slide-hammer tool but default 5 lb slide hammer sometimes not enough, I've had to use a 25 lb barbell plate on slide bar instead to shock/break carbon loose from injector bore that welds it in there.. The struggle can be very real. Glow plugs are almost as much fun. I'd avoid fooling with those unless scan tool is holding GP related code or CEL on. My CEL is on related to #6 GP but attempted replacement resulted in only threaded part & above coming out, rest is stuck there in head still with electrode wire sticking out. Luckily, I live in south so no hard starts yet or vehicle inspection here. 280k miles impressive. It can go further.
Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 161
Likes: 33
From: Orlando, Florida
2005 E320 CDI (SOLD); 2008 ML320 CDI 4MATIC
Dealership quoted me $2500 for early onset BD but wanted to replace leaky injector with a reman. They always want to replace things instead of repair. My indie resealed existing injector by replacing copper washer seal & stretch bolt for like $300 & it's been smooth sailing ever since. Key to labor cost will be how boogered up everything has become before getting discovered. Severe cases can see molten plastic from engine cover ooze down injector bores & then become crystalized shard wedges or wiring harness insulation crumble to dust from exposure to diesel exhaust gas temperatures. It is best to catch BD early so I leave all that plastic crap off & inspect frequently. My injectors have 165k miles so far & run Liqui Moly Super Diesel Additive every other tankful. An injector's health can be determined electronically by using Star diagnostic pc & mechanically by using some fish aquarium tubing on return lines to perform a leak back test. At 286k miles, I would consider running both tests if it were me & plan on replacing all 6 with reman. FCP-Euro has best price w/ lifetime guarantee on injectors I think.
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 20
From: Charlotte, NC
2005 E320 CDI, 2015 GLA 250
Black Death?
Are you referring to a leaky fuel injector seal? These cause deisel fuel to pump up through the the injector in between the cams. The fuel turns to a black goo. The cost might be the labor of cleaning out the mess. Not a difficult job but time consuming.
Pull it all apart. Pry the injectors out. Plug the injector holes with a paper towel. Scrape and clean all of the black goo out.
Maybe bore the seal. Replace them two dollar copper seal. Use the $25 special white paste. Reassemble. Done.
Not intense. Not easy though. Labor intensive.
Peter
Are you referring to a leaky fuel injector seal? These cause deisel fuel to pump up through the the injector in between the cams. The fuel turns to a black goo. The cost might be the labor of cleaning out the mess. Not a difficult job but time consuming.
Pull it all apart. Pry the injectors out. Plug the injector holes with a paper towel. Scrape and clean all of the black goo out.
Maybe bore the seal. Replace them two dollar copper seal. Use the $25 special white paste. Reassemble. Done.
Not intense. Not easy though. Labor intensive.
Peter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 20
From: Charlotte, NC
2005 E320 CDI, 2015 GLA 250
The injectors are just held in by a clamp. Once you remove the clamp, the injector just pulls out.
Unless the black goo has frozen it into the hole. That is why I warmed up the engine to soften the goo prior to using some small lady slippers (a kind of pry bar) to pry them out. The injectors are expensive so you don’t want to destroy them.
Ha! I wonder if you loosened the clamp and then cranked the engine a few times, if the pressure of that super high compression diesel would push them out to where you could pull them out easily.
Peter
Unless the black goo has frozen it into the hole. That is why I warmed up the engine to soften the goo prior to using some small lady slippers (a kind of pry bar) to pry them out. The injectors are expensive so you don’t want to destroy them.
Ha! I wonder if you loosened the clamp and then cranked the engine a few times, if the pressure of that super high compression diesel would push them out to where you could pull them out easily.
Peter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 20
From: Charlotte, NC
2005 E320 CDI, 2015 GLA 250
Ha! Yes! Where do you live? I would pay to see that.
Is that the neighbor down the street or just next door?
Forget the fancy tools. This I’ve got to see for myself. Marvelous!
Peter
Is that the neighbor down the street or just next door?
Forget the fancy tools. This I’ve got to see for myself. Marvelous!
Peter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
'03 C240 and '05 C230
does anyone have any experience with a stripped stretch bolt? I purchased a CDI with 140K mi and they are just now starting to leak. I called the shop that had done the previous repairs on the vehicle stated that injector #1 stretch bolt was stripped. I haven't removed the injector to see if they tapped it with helicoil but was hoping to get some insight into this before DIY'ing. I've seen the video of injector removal and it doesn't seem too difficult.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 20
From: Charlotte, NC
2005 E320 CDI, 2015 GLA 250
Regarding the stripped stretched bolt, did the shop repair it or leave it stripped? The dilemma is that shops are under tremendous pressure to complete a car and get on to the next car so heli-coil solutions might be good but I wouldn’t expect them to do it. Actually, if there is room for a heli-coil, it should be stronger than the original aluminum head.
BTW, it has been a while for me. I assume the stretch bolt is the one that holds the clamp down that holds the injector in. I wouldn’t expect that to come loose nor strip, (but I do all of my own work so I know there are no shortcuts). I would be more concerned that the bore needed counter boring to make a clean seat for the copper seal. Once the seal is lost, you get gas erosion in the aluminum of the head and you need to assure a good seal there.
There is also the “Special Grease” that I have no clue what it does but has that descriptive name and cost a bunch per teaspoon. For all of the effort, I would also recommend that grease.
Good luck,
Peter
BTW, it has been a while for me. I assume the stretch bolt is the one that holds the clamp down that holds the injector in. I wouldn’t expect that to come loose nor strip, (but I do all of my own work so I know there are no shortcuts). I would be more concerned that the bore needed counter boring to make a clean seat for the copper seal. Once the seal is lost, you get gas erosion in the aluminum of the head and you need to assure a good seal there.
There is also the “Special Grease” that I have no clue what it does but has that descriptive name and cost a bunch per teaspoon. For all of the effort, I would also recommend that grease.
Good luck,
Peter
