2006 Mercedes E350 Advice
#1
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2006 Mercedes E350 Advice
Hey All,
New to the Forum! I have an opportunity to buy an 06 Mercedes E350 3.5l v6 in fantastic condition with a reasonable asking price of 5000. The car has 120,000 miles and has no dash warning lights on.
I've read about the engine issues people have. I currently have a 98 E320 that has 260,000 miles and I've been able to avoid the notorious transmission issues by regular service, and maybe some luck.
I REALLY like this car and it seems rock solid. I could afford smaller repairs, but obviously can't afford a new engine or similar large repair.
Does anyone have any advice? Or is this a legitimate AVOID car as they were terrible? Or will regular service keep the issues to a minimum as I just need the car for driving around town (no big trips). I really appreciate the advice!
New to the Forum! I have an opportunity to buy an 06 Mercedes E350 3.5l v6 in fantastic condition with a reasonable asking price of 5000. The car has 120,000 miles and has no dash warning lights on.
I've read about the engine issues people have. I currently have a 98 E320 that has 260,000 miles and I've been able to avoid the notorious transmission issues by regular service, and maybe some luck.
I REALLY like this car and it seems rock solid. I could afford smaller repairs, but obviously can't afford a new engine or similar large repair.
Does anyone have any advice? Or is this a legitimate AVOID car as they were terrible? Or will regular service keep the issues to a minimum as I just need the car for driving around town (no big trips). I really appreciate the advice!
#3
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Can you tell from the VIN? Door tag? When was the bad range? This is all information I'm unsure of. Hopefully someone can provide information to supplement/confirm my own. Thanks!
#4
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2013 ML350 Bluetec
Search "balance shaft" on this forum and you'll have plenty of reading.
Here's one thread to get you started and you'll maybe find the answers you just asked.
https://mbworld.org/forums/safety-te...3-engines.html
Here's one thread to get you started and you'll maybe find the answers you just asked.
https://mbworld.org/forums/safety-te...3-engines.html
#5
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Search "balance shaft" on this forum and you'll have plenty of reading.
Here's one thread to get you started and you'll maybe find the answers you just asked.
https://mbworld.org/forums/safety-te...3-engines.html
Here's one thread to get you started and you'll maybe find the answers you just asked.
https://mbworld.org/forums/safety-te...3-engines.html
#6
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'11 E350, '11 E550, '98 M3, '95 E320
Need to search harder… TSB lists engines which are affected (by engine S/N). Get VIN for car, decipher to get engine S/N and see if it’s affected.
Then find out if PO addressed issue or not, OR take a chance… that’s your call.
Then find out if PO addressed issue or not, OR take a chance… that’s your call.
#7
DON'T buy an 06 E350 unless it comes with receipts proving that that balance shaft has been fixed or engine replaced. All 06 E350s have the bad balance shaft. There are no exceptions. The balance shaft usually fails around 100-130k miles. Some owners with the bad balance shaft clear the codes and sell the car before the check engine light comes on again. I would be interested to check how long since the last CEL reset.
Don't buy it.
Don't buy it.
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#8
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Good news everyone! He had both the balance shaft and timing chain replaced in 2015 and has the original receipts to prove it! The car is beautiful. going to look Monday. Does anyone else have anything I should look out for? Thanks!
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robbieas (07-16-2021)
#9
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If it has airmatic suspension be prepared to spend money on fixing it or converting it to a conventional shock system.
SBC brakes are amazing when they work. They're also covered by a 25 year extended warranty if you're in the USA.
Other than those two major items, you're still looking at a 15 year old car with wear and tear on everything from ball joints to brake pads. Great cars if you can turn a wrench. Not great cars if you have to pay someone to turn the wrench for you.
Edited to add: All things considered, I like my '05 CDI more than my '13.
SBC brakes are amazing when they work. They're also covered by a 25 year extended warranty if you're in the USA.
Other than those two major items, you're still looking at a 15 year old car with wear and tear on everything from ball joints to brake pads. Great cars if you can turn a wrench. Not great cars if you have to pay someone to turn the wrench for you.
Edited to add: All things considered, I like my '05 CDI more than my '13.
Last edited by rapidoxidation; 07-15-2021 at 11:19 PM.
#10
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I definitely full comfortable with working on cars. I did all regular maintenance on my mercedes such as brakes and various bushing replacements. I've also worked in auto body shops when I'm not in school, and have restored a 79 Trans Am show car (Hence the Bandit name) on my own. Just need a daily driver upgrade!
I'll watch out for the Airmatic suspension, but I can do everything else besides big jobs!
I'll watch out for the Airmatic suspension, but I can do everything else besides big jobs!
#13
The tank doesn't have to be replaced. The tank doesn't go bad, just the driver's side sender unit. Its a $50 part on amazon. MBUSA is under court order to warranty the entire fuel tank for 15 years. This settlement was the result of a lawsuit.
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Wrong. The tank absolutely goes bad; it leaks from the plastic vent fitting at the top. The ones that leak are white plastic while the later updated versions are orange plastic.
#15
My original sender unit while it was leaking.
After MBUSA replaced the entire tank.
The entire fuel sender unit looks like this. It's not a "vent". Again, replacing the entire tank is not necessary. There is no fault with the fuel tank itself, it is not a $3000 repair.
Last edited by tjts1; 07-16-2021 at 03:45 AM.
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That's noo true. The fault is in the passenger side fuel sender. The unit includes the fuel filter, one of the 2 fuel level sensors, vapor pressure sensor, wiring to the pump and fuel hose to the engine. It simply screws to the top of the tank. Mine leaked fuel only when the tank was full. Both the original and replacement are white but will turn orange with age and exposure to fuel. For cars that are out of the 15 year warranty or outside the US, you simply replace the passenger side fuel sender. It's a known fault with a known fix.
My original sender unit while it was leaking.
After MBUSA replaced the entire tank.
The entire fuel sender unit looks like this. It's not a "vent". Again, replacing the entire tank is not necessary. There is no fault with the fuel tank itself, it is not a $3000 repair.
My original sender unit while it was leaking.
After MBUSA replaced the entire tank.
The entire fuel sender unit looks like this. It's not a "vent". Again, replacing the entire tank is not necessary. There is no fault with the fuel tank itself, it is not a $3000 repair.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 07-16-2021 at 10:30 AM.
#17
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To clarify, and correct me if I'm wrong: the issue with the tank is that the tank flange that the pump mounts to actually starts to crack, yes? Meaning that the tank itself is compromised?
I'm fortunate to have dodged that bullet so far with the cdi, and even if it happens to my car the warranty (long since expired) would not have covered it anyway.
I'm fortunate to have dodged that bullet so far with the cdi, and even if it happens to my car the warranty (long since expired) would not have covered it anyway.
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This place is a joke.
To clarify, and correct me if I'm wrong: the issue with the tank is that the tank flange that the pump mounts to actually starts to crack, yes? Meaning that the tank itself is compromised?
I'm fortunate to have dodged that bullet so far with the cdi, and even if it happens to my car the warranty (long since expired) would not have covered it anyway.
I'm fortunate to have dodged that bullet so far with the cdi, and even if it happens to my car the warranty (long since expired) would not have covered it anyway.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 07-16-2021 at 12:02 PM.
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rapidoxidation (07-16-2021)
#19
No, there are two main failures. One is the molded-in breather at the top of the tank leaking, which requires tank replacement, the other is the fuel filter hat can crack at the pressure outlet or the pressure sensor. The third failure is rare but the pump side can crack and leak around the electrical connectors on the AMG's. There can be any combination of these three failures.
#21
I'll wait.
#22
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
There is a thread on this forum that addresses the failed white plastic vent on top of the tank. I've seen it, read it, and mentioned it in other threads. Once I get home I'll see if I have it bookmarked and post the link. E55greasemonkey is correct on the failure modes. The top-side tank vent is the least common failure mode.
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E55Greasemonkey (07-16-2021)
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This place is a joke.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 07-16-2021 at 12:55 PM.