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Battery protection mode after installing a subwoofer
Hello
recently i installed a aftermarket subwoofer for my 04 w211, when the bass hits my car goes into battery protection mode and turns off all convenice functions even with the engine running
had anyone had similar problem?
charging from amp 13.8v when bass hits lowest what i saw was 13.1 on the dash and then it turned off.
was thinking of installing a second battery in the trunk, has anyone ran dual battery setup on their 211?
Isn't your battery already in the trunk? Mine is to the right of my spare tire in the trunk... thought that's where they all were? Where are you pulling power from for the amp if not the battery in the trunk? It was nice and easy to power my amp since both were in the trunk, only needed like a 4' cable run.
Make sure your wire gauge is properly sized for power and run length. I'd add a capacitor either way as previously mentioned, but make sure that wire is sized properly too.
Hi,
I am not well verse with electrics but if your car has an auxiliary battery (small battery under the air filter compartment) maybe it has to be replaced. I am having a similar problem with my 2004 W211 E500 after upgrading my headlights. I will be buying a new aux battery next week and see what will happen. I will keep you posted.
There is a rule of thumb that you should have 0,1 farads for every 100 watts, and this applies to the older style capacitors. Haven't messed with them for ages, but nowadays there seems to be supercapacitors. Though not sure if the 0,1F/100W apply to them. But if you get them from car audio specialists, they should know.
Hello
recently i installed a aftermarket subwoofer for my 04 w211, when the bass hits my car goes into battery protection mode and turns off all convenice functions even with the engine running
had anyone had similar problem?
charging from amp 13.8v when bass hits lowest what i saw was 13.1 on the dash and then it turned off.
was thinking of installing a second battery in the trunk, has anyone ran dual battery setup on their 211?
Are you running off of the factory head unit and did you use a signal converter to rf audio off a speaker signal.? Well remember you stock amplifier still in play? Do you have single. Or double vioce coil sub using stock speaker wire and fuse and a 1fr capacitator to prevent blowing out your whole audio system ? I can't figure it out myself so I just returned it back to original stock premium system_Harmon Jordon) and just replaced the 20 year old sub with an upgraded sub from a 2018 e class and I'm happy with it.
Are you running off of the factory head unit and did you use a signal converter to rf audio off a speaker signal.? Well remember you stock amplifier still in play? Do you have single. Or double vioce coil sub using stock speaker wire and fuse and a 1fr capacitator to prevent blowing out your whole audio system ? I can't figure it out myself so I just returned it back to original stock premium system_Harmon Jordon) and just replaced the 20 year old sub with an upgraded sub from a 2018 e class and I'm happy with it.
yes used a hi to low converter from speaker wires sub is double coil and also have a capacitor
Hi,
I am not well verse with electrics but if your car has an auxiliary battery (small battery under the air filter compartment) maybe it has to be replaced. I am having a similar problem with my 2004 W211 E500 after upgrading my headlights. I will be buying a new aux battery next week and see what will happen. I will keep you posted.
I don't think AUX has anything to do with HL power.
ALT/MAIN circuit feeds 100% of lights.
Have you plugged in a scanner to assess what's going on with you car..?
You need a scanner that can do all MB specific codes like an Autel AP200, a regular OBDII scanner will only do engine and emissions codes which will not tell you about the electrical issues you're having. There's over 40 other subsystems that the Autel can scan and the OBDII scanner you have only does a couple.
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