tbeiler

I had sent out my ECU, EIS and both keys for testing and to fix to repair for a no crank, no start condition.
I reinstalled the ECU and the EIS unit without issue.
As soon as I turned the key the glow plug light came on and car started no problem, and has started every time perfectly since.

Prior to install, the car sat for close to a year or more.

During a test drive around the block, the car jerks back and forth, as if it's trying to shift into higher gear, but just not able to.
Then the car went into limp mode and I got an ESP and an ABS fault, and power steering is not working.

I should mention that before the ESP and ABS dash light came on, the transmission would not shift out of first gear.

My thinking is the transmission conductor pIate may need replacing, I'm sure that the car sitting for this amount of time has not helped.
I know the transmission conductor plate has never been replaced on the car, (as my father owned the car from new before me).

When I first drove the car around the block after the ECU and EIS install, the rear brake was dragging a bit, but then loosend up.

My questions
What do I need to do for ESP and ABS fault?
Does it make sense to change out the conductor plate, (I don't have any codes for the transmission). Yet.
Thanks

cetialpha5

Before you go too crazy, get the car scanned. Scanners which can do all MB specific codes don't cost that much, there's the basic Autel AP200 which is about $60, used to be $50 a couple years ago, but that's inflation. The scanner should tell you where to go with the ESP error. The conductor plate is probably worse case, could be something simpler like low on fluid. When was the last time the transmission fluid was changed? Also I think you have the 5 speed and the connector goes bad all the time too. I would do those before jumping to the conductor plate, but maybe when you scan it, you'll get a better indication if it's the conductor plate or not. ESP fault can range from the brake light switch, steering angle sensor, speed sensor/magnetic ring, yaw sensor etc. Need to get it scanned to figure it out.


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tbeiler

Hey thanks C5, I do have an MB11 scanner, will hook it up and see what I can find out.
I'm pretty sure that the trans fluid was changed a few years back, (not by me) but no filter, plug adaptor, or conductor plate at that time.
The car always shifted hard out of first gear, (Solenoid issue?), especially when cold. Once warm it always shifted smoothly.
I do have the 722.6 5 speed trans in the 05.
I will definitely look at the connector and the brake light switch.
Will also look at the magnetic ring, this could be the issue as the car has been sitting for well over a year. (perhaps rusty).
Of course scanning hopefully will lead me correctly, Hope my scanner is capable of this detail.

cetialpha5

When scanning it, you could get an error for the speed sensor, but that could be either the speed sensor or the magnetic ring. For those items, you should use OEM only as some aftermarket rings don't work right. Placement is important too, too far in or out and it might also not work. You won't actually get an error for the magnetic ring, only that the speed sensor doesn't work and that may be due to a bad magnetic ring or a bad speed sensor. I had some harsh shifting a while ago but changed the fluid and connector and it went away and it's still shifting fine now. It would hunt or slam into gear when it was cold and then smooth out as it warmed up. Many say you should just change the connector when changing the transmission fluid.

Slow AMG

Most likely need a conductor plate if there's no documented history on it being done. What are the codes?

If scanning the TCU (with DAS/STAR) reveals "P200A Component N15/3 (ETC [EGS] control unit) is defective" or a "regular scanner" revealing P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio - replacing the conductor plate solved it.

tbeiler

I spent some time today with the MBII scanner and found the following.

Under TCM (transmission control module)
At idle, Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) measures 518 rpm,
At idle, Y3/6n3 (speed sensor 3) measures 0 rpm,
At idle, engine speed measures 859 rpm

I'm guessing that both speed sensors should be measuring the same rpm within the TCU module? Is my speed sensor 3 kaput? Meaning I need a new conductor plate and/or connector?
Going to look at the electronic service manual and see if I can find what these sensors are referring to within the TCU.

Didn't measure the 4 speed sensors at speed, will try to do that tomorrow at slow speed to see if I get some measurement beyond 0, BUT,
the transmission will not shift out of first gear into second or beyond. If I give it some throttle, it jerks back and forth, seemingly wanting to shift into a higher gear, but not able to.
Then the ESP and ABS warning messages come on in the center dash display. The ABS warning light comes on.

Under ESP sensors heading,
at idle, rotational speed is 0 degrees
at idle, lateral acceleration is 1777.96 m/s 2
at idle, N49 (steering angle sensor) is near 0, but when turning steering wheel it changes.
at idle, N49 (steering angle sensor) shows OK.

It appears that the steering angle sensor is OK and functioning properly, I don't know about the high value for the lateral acceleration, or even where this sensor is located. Is this a concern?
Not sure what the rotational speed is referring to, but is it perhaps how fast the steering wheel is turned? The values did change somewhat from 0 to -0.22 degrees with slight steering wheel movement.

Under ABS Switches
the S9/1 (stop lamp switch) changes from off to on once I depress brake pedal.
the S76/6 (ESP OFF switch) button on center console changes from Off to On when depressing button.
the S12 (Parking brake indicator switch) changes from On to Off, when depressing parking brake lever and releasing it.
It appears that all these are working OK,

Under SBC Switches
the S9/1 (stop lamp switch) shows a steady 0.04
this value didn't change when at idle or when brake applied.
what are the units behind the value, none are shown on my MBII scanner.

So, although under the ABS Switches heading, the S9/1 (stop lamp switch) appears to show off and on is working OK, under the SBC switches heading, the value of the S9/1 (stop lamp switch) shows a steady 0.04.
Should this value change? Is my brake stop switch semi functioning?

Hope someone can add some value to this information, as always, thanks for any responses.

cetialpha5

Usually it's a lot more definitive. But the connector is cheap and so is the brake light switch which seems to go all the time. Normally I don't like to throw parts at a problem, but the connector is under $20 and so is the brake light switch. You would normally get a more specific message than what you're reporting regarding ESP, maybe try a different scanner. As both parts are pretty cheap, I'd just get the official MB part.

tbeiler

Thanks for this.
Got some prices from a few different suppliers including Mercedes dealer.
Thinking to start off with the connector and brake switch, (only slightly more expensive from dealer).
Also going to get a transmission dipstick, (about $50) from third party. This way I can at least check the fluid level.
The dealer price for the conductor plate is almost 2 to 2.5 times more, so that's a big NO.
I'd love to buy the whole trans kit from FCP Euro, but after shipping cost, taxes, and duty to Canada, there are no real savings compared to Canadian source, although FCP has more genuine parts than if I buy locally.

Checked out the WIS documents and saw that for the 2005 CDI 722.648 5 spd trans, that it takes 8 liters of oil on initial fill, but only 5 liters at refill.
Does the torque converter hold 3 liters of trans oil?
I suppose if trans oil is not in good shape, then draining the converter as well makes the most sense.
(Apparently the trick to drain the torque converter is to turn the engine crankshaft so that drain bolt in torque converter is accessible).
Now the only problem, when to do the work, as we have something here called SNOW, and no garage to pull the car into.

cetialpha5

The transmission fluid dipstick I bought a long time ago on eBay and it was nowhere close to $50. The transmission fluid is ATF 134 and if you have Shell stations, you can probably buy a case directly from them as they can order it from their distributors. In the US, we can go directly to a shell distributor and buy a case from them directly. Years ago it was something like $60 for a case of 12 quarts. You could also send out the conductor plate to be rebuilt, but not sure if you have anyone to do that in Canada.

A lot of people get hung up on getting every last drop of transmission fluid out, but the standard procedure with changing transmission fluid always leaves some old fluid in the transmission. You could just change it more often if you like but 5 quarts and the standard interval is the recommendation based on only refilling with 5 quarts.

tbeiler

I purchased a transmission dipstick, got it yesterday, was quite inexpensive, about $17 from Amazon with free shipping.
Checked the fluid level today and found the level way too high, even at cold temp. Level point (cold) was above the 80C level.
Didn't need to let the car warm up to check it at 25C, or even 80C, since the level is already too high.
Going to drain out the fluid tomorrow.
Also going to order a few parts, trans filter kit, plug adaptor, trans fluid, and conductor plate.

Heguli

Was the engine running when you checked the fluid level? Engine off it will show too much oil.

tbeiler

Yes, went through all gears and checked with car in neutral and engine running, Level is beyond where 80C level is.
Lifted car on ramps so I could get underneath, but the drain plug is on there way too tight, stripped the torx on the bolt head, even after some penetrating fluid and some heat.
Might have to siphon the fluid out of the fill tube or get a big catch pan and pull off the trans cover, neither of which I have at the moment.