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W211 320cdi 2003 with 722.6 autobox. Transmission left me on the side of the road two weeks ago. Cluster showed ”D” but pressing the pedal only revved my engine and the car didn’t move. Had to restart to make it move for 100 meters and then did it again. I drove to a mechanic like that, by restarting every 100 meters.
Mechanic got 4 different fault codes from the tranny, something about illogical shifts or something. He ruled it down to some electrical socket that had leaked 2 liters of fluid, all the way to an electrical tranny unit in the passenger footwell area.
He replaced those today, but still the same problem remains. It doesn’t feel like it could be a coincidence that those two parts were broken and the tranny stopped working, but it seems like it was a coincidence, because replacing those did nothing. There were changes in the fault codes, but the problem remains the same.
Any insight on this? The mechanic is going to tear the tranny apart next, but I’m quite hesitant of that because I fear it’s useless.
This happened to me once because I was low on fluid. Does your transmission have a leak? It's not just the transmission electrical connector that can leak. There's many orings, gaskets, and internal parts that can leak as well.
This happened to me once because I was low on fluid. Does your transmission have a leak? It's not just the transmission electrical connector that can leak. There's many orings, gaskets, and internal parts that can leak as well.
If you've verified the fluid level then I'd be getting ready to open your wallet. I'm not well experienced with transmissions but this sounds like an electrical problem to me. If you're lucky, some cable isn't seated properly or isn't making contact. If you're unlucky, I think you are in for some work on the valve body or tcm. Beyond my expertise
Bushing failure is a common problem. Associated harness ‘may’ need replacement if it was contaminated causing same problem again. If not, erase all stored fault codes and pull current preferably using Xentry (MB diagnostics).
I can't fully read your original post because of MB World's poorly coded dark mode which they seem too inept to fix, however I couldn't see where you posted the mileage of your car, the most important piece of information in this case.
P2502 = gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping
P2500 = transmission has an impermissible transmission ratio
P220A = speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 is implausible
Looks as though you have two problems first being pilot bushing/fluid leak that was remedied, second conductor plate to internal control unit may need replacement. Provide VIN I’ll pull part #.
Last edited by konigstiger; 01-16-2023 at 12:18 PM.
I've had a similar loss of acceleration but it was due to a problem with a wheel speed sensor (these can cause all sorts of other issues; I'll toss in low voltages as also stirring up lots of problems).
Fixed this exact issue several months ago - electrical conductor plate between the valve body/transmission. You'll notice metal shavings built up around the speed sensors of the plate.
Could one (in a pinch) clean those metal shavings and regain normal functions again? (obviously, if you're there you'd be best off just replacing the conductor plate as it's not all that costly)
Also, if there are metal shavings related issues wouldn't one note this when changing fluid?
Could one (in a pinch) clean those metal shavings and regain normal functions again? (obviously, if you're there you'd be best off just replacing the conductor plate as it's not all that costly)
Also, if there are metal shavings related issues wouldn't one note this when changing fluid?
One could, but with how widespread and common conductor plate failure is, it would be absolutely unwise to not replace.
Also, you won’t really notice as much metal shavings draining fluid since the conductor plate speed censors magnetize the shavings and hold them in place, along with the transmission pan magnet.
01-13-2023, 09:44 AM
