Suspension - W211 E550 4Matic
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 5
2008 E550 4-Matic
Suspension - W211 E550 4Matic
I am removing the airmatic suspension soon to go with a non-airmatic .
The kits appear to use the existing rear lower control arms, causing some issues?
I read that a MB donor V6 with traditional suspension could be used to accomplish part of the conversion. I prefer to use MB parts and/or FCP Euro.
I want to be sure I purchase correctly.
1. What year/model can I borrow from?
2. What parts I should buy in addition to the donor parts?
3. Do I have to remove the pump and bladder, in case I want to go back to airmatic?
(One Arnott strut is only 6 months old)
4. Is it cost effective to order replacement control arms for a V6 model vs a donor car with wear and tear?
VIN: WDBUF90X18B246894
The kits appear to use the existing rear lower control arms, causing some issues?
I read that a MB donor V6 with traditional suspension could be used to accomplish part of the conversion. I prefer to use MB parts and/or FCP Euro.
I want to be sure I purchase correctly.
1. What year/model can I borrow from?
2. What parts I should buy in addition to the donor parts?
3. Do I have to remove the pump and bladder, in case I want to go back to airmatic?
(One Arnott strut is only 6 months old)
4. Is it cost effective to order replacement control arms for a V6 model vs a donor car with wear and tear?
VIN: WDBUF90X18B246894
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,967
Likes: 1,315
From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
My recommendation is to stay Airmatic. If I'm buying a W211, I would offer less for a steel spring conversion as I would have to convert it back to Airmatic.
Leave air compressor in place. Cap off the lines. Remove as little as possible so a future owner can reinstall the SAS system. Go with new steel spring control arms so you don't have to deal with bad bushings. You'll need to code out the SAS so you don't get errors on the instrument cluster.
Personally, I like the SAS Airmatic system. Much easier to adjust ride height; push a button on the computer versus taking a wrench to the coilovers. I have steel springs on five of my other cars and they are nowhere as comfortable as my E55 for my needs.
YMMV.
Leave air compressor in place. Cap off the lines. Remove as little as possible so a future owner can reinstall the SAS system. Go with new steel spring control arms so you don't have to deal with bad bushings. You'll need to code out the SAS so you don't get errors on the instrument cluster.
Personally, I like the SAS Airmatic system. Much easier to adjust ride height; push a button on the computer versus taking a wrench to the coilovers. I have steel springs on five of my other cars and they are nowhere as comfortable as my E55 for my needs.
YMMV.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,418
Likes: 399
From: Merkville the galaxy of Stars
'99 CLK/05 E500 WAG
I would have to agree of keeping airmatic, but that is entirely your choice. Although it can be problematic when it goes, but it's really not to hard to fix. Just my opinion.
R,
2Merks
R,
2Merks
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 5
2008 E550 4-Matic
Preservation
Leave air compressor in place. Cap off the lines. Remove as little as possible so a future owner can reinstall the SAS system. Go with new steel spring control arms so you don't have to deal with bad bushings. You'll need to code out the SAS so you don't get errors on the instrument cluster.
YMMV.
YMMV.
To clarify my motives:
I am in a stage of life where we are debt free other than a rental home we own. We’ve moved and taken a pay cut, but will soon stabilize and have much more time with each other and our kids. It’s exciting. So, I will knowingly sacrifice the ride quality for about 3 years, so we can save money.
Questions:
- I have read I can switch to a C350 V6 MB set up, is this for the rear and front?
- Parts list; I want to know which components I need for this job.
-Are there differences in models that will work for mine, since I have the V8 (the weight) and a 4Matic?
- With coding out the SAS, is this simply dash lights or will it not let me drive until I code it out?
I appreciate your assistance!
Last edited by The Basics; Mar 23, 2024 at 12:50 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,967
Likes: 1,315
From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Arnott sells a conversion kit for your car with an electronic bypass module to prevent error codes and malfunction lights:
https://arnott.mycarparts.com/items/C-3698
I don't know if it adapts to the SAS rear control arm or if you will need to pick up a pair of W211 E350 rear control arms.
EDIT: the kit includes spring perches for the stock rear control arms. Installation instructions look comprehensive.
https://arnott.mycarparts.com/items/C-3698
EDIT: the kit includes spring perches for the stock rear control arms. Installation instructions look comprehensive.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Mar 24, 2024 at 09:36 AM.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 5
2008 E550 4-Matic
Arnott sells a conversion kit for your car with an electronic bypass module to prevent error codes and malfunction lights:
https://arnott.mycarparts.com/items/C-3698
https://arnott.mycarparts.com/items/C-3698
User tjts1: “Both strut master and Arnott rear spring conversion kits are badly compromised because they reuse the airbag spring rear lower control arm instead of converting to a proper coil spring lower control arm. The Arnott kit for example and you can see the spring sits on top of a large aluminum adapter in the airbag control arm hence the much shorter spring. This results in a much shorter rear springs with less travel.”
——————————————
I’m not sure if this has been remedied or not? A German shop nearby may be able to help with coding.
I do prefer the kit, cause it’s all there. However, I really don’t want to stink bug the car or have worse ride quality than the MB V6 set up.
I’m in analysis paralysis….
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 5
2008 E550 4-Matic
UPDATE:
Couldn’t find donor cars and it wouldn’t save much money, so I am KEEPING the AIRMATIC.
SITUATION:
After driving low for weeks I finally got the “STOP TOO LOW” message yesterday 6/5/24.
PLAN:
I bought a pump, the strut (installed), valve block, and control arms, I’m at 108k miles. Will install other parts over the weekend.
I installed the new front air strut last night on the drivers side (last year did the passenger). It appears the steering knuckle rubbed against the bellows and they tore.
PROBLEMS:
After installing the strut, my current pump still turns on, but neither front will raise up.
Could the pump be too weak to fill properly?
I used my jacks to lift the car up to ride height while it fills, still drops down. I hear lots of clicks periodically while it’s trying. Sounds like it’s moving air.
—————
Rears are still at ride height.
No hissing.
Haven’t checked sensors.
No STAR tool.
If anyone has any resources or diagrams of my specific 2008 W211 E550 4Matic system I’d appreciate it!! In Idaho, Treasure Valley.
Couldn’t find donor cars and it wouldn’t save much money, so I am KEEPING the AIRMATIC.
SITUATION:
After driving low for weeks I finally got the “STOP TOO LOW” message yesterday 6/5/24.
PLAN:
I bought a pump, the strut (installed), valve block, and control arms, I’m at 108k miles. Will install other parts over the weekend.
I installed the new front air strut last night on the drivers side (last year did the passenger). It appears the steering knuckle rubbed against the bellows and they tore.
PROBLEMS:
After installing the strut, my current pump still turns on, but neither front will raise up.
Could the pump be too weak to fill properly?
I used my jacks to lift the car up to ride height while it fills, still drops down. I hear lots of clicks periodically while it’s trying. Sounds like it’s moving air.
—————
Rears are still at ride height.
No hissing.
Haven’t checked sensors.
No STAR tool.
If anyone has any resources or diagrams of my specific 2008 W211 E550 4Matic system I’d appreciate it!! In Idaho, Treasure Valley.
Last edited by The Basics; Jun 6, 2024 at 11:41 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,418
Likes: 399
From: Merkville the galaxy of Stars
'99 CLK/05 E500 WAG
UPDATE:
Couldn’t find donor cars and it wouldn’t save much money, so I am KEEPING the AIRMATIC.
SITUATION:
After driving low for weeks I finally got the “STOP TOO LOW” message yesterday 6/5/24.
PLAN:
I bought a pump, the strut (installed), valve block, and control arms, I’m at 108k miles. Will install other parts over the weekend.
I installed the new front air strut last night on the drivers side (last year did the passenger). It appears the steering knuckle rubbed against the bellows and they tore.
PROBLEMS:
After installing the strut, my current pump still turns on, but neither front will raise up.
Could the pump be too weak to fill properly?
I used my jacks to lift the car up to ride height while it fills, still drops down. I hear lots of clicks periodically while it’s trying. Sounds like it’s moving air.
—————
Rears are still at ride height.
No hissing.
Haven’t checked sensors.
No STAR tool.
If anyone has any resources or diagrams of my specific 2008 W211 E550 4Matic system I’d appreciate it!! In Idaho, Treasure Valley.
Couldn’t find donor cars and it wouldn’t save much money, so I am KEEPING the AIRMATIC.
SITUATION:
After driving low for weeks I finally got the “STOP TOO LOW” message yesterday 6/5/24.
PLAN:
I bought a pump, the strut (installed), valve block, and control arms, I’m at 108k miles. Will install other parts over the weekend.
I installed the new front air strut last night on the drivers side (last year did the passenger). It appears the steering knuckle rubbed against the bellows and they tore.
PROBLEMS:
After installing the strut, my current pump still turns on, but neither front will raise up.
Could the pump be too weak to fill properly?
I used my jacks to lift the car up to ride height while it fills, still drops down. I hear lots of clicks periodically while it’s trying. Sounds like it’s moving air.
—————
Rears are still at ride height.
No hissing.
Haven’t checked sensors.
No STAR tool.
If anyone has any resources or diagrams of my specific 2008 W211 E550 4Matic system I’d appreciate it!! In Idaho, Treasure Valley.
R,
2Merks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 2,290
Likes: 434
C320
UPDATE:
Couldn’t find donor cars and it wouldn’t save much money, so I am KEEPING the AIRMATIC.
SITUATION:
After driving low for weeks I finally got the “STOP TOO LOW” message yesterday 6/5/24.
PLAN:
I bought a pump, the strut (installed), valve block, and control arms, I’m at 108k miles. Will install other parts over the weekend.
I installed the new front air strut last night on the drivers side (last year did the passenger). It appears the steering knuckle rubbed against the bellows and they tore.
PROBLEMS:
After installing the strut, my current pump still turns on, but neither front will raise up.
Could the pump be too weak to fill properly?
I used my jacks to lift the car up to ride height while it fills, still drops down. I hear lots of clicks periodically while it’s trying. Sounds like it’s moving air.
—————
Rears are still at ride height.
No hissing.
Haven’t checked sensors.
No STAR tool.
If anyone has any resources or diagrams of my specific 2008 W211 E550 4Matic system I’d appreciate it!! In Idaho, Treasure Valley.
Couldn’t find donor cars and it wouldn’t save much money, so I am KEEPING the AIRMATIC.
SITUATION:
After driving low for weeks I finally got the “STOP TOO LOW” message yesterday 6/5/24.
PLAN:
I bought a pump, the strut (installed), valve block, and control arms, I’m at 108k miles. Will install other parts over the weekend.
I installed the new front air strut last night on the drivers side (last year did the passenger). It appears the steering knuckle rubbed against the bellows and they tore.
PROBLEMS:
After installing the strut, my current pump still turns on, but neither front will raise up.
Could the pump be too weak to fill properly?
I used my jacks to lift the car up to ride height while it fills, still drops down. I hear lots of clicks periodically while it’s trying. Sounds like it’s moving air.
—————
Rears are still at ride height.
No hissing.
Haven’t checked sensors.
No STAR tool.
If anyone has any resources or diagrams of my specific 2008 W211 E550 4Matic system I’d appreciate it!! In Idaho, Treasure Valley.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 2,290
Likes: 434
C320
I'm coming off a Arnott rear airspring double failure. Great business to deal with but I'm so sure about the build quality.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 5
2008 E550 4-Matic
Unfortunately the 4Matic Arnotts weren’t in stock at the time. I refuse to pay the FCP core charge AND $100+ in shipping it back.
—————
Also, when I put the car up, I did not disconnect the battery. My thinking was to remove the wheel liner and spray for bubbles while I try to run the pump. I’m reading the sensors could cause my system to dump air?
The system seemed to release air after the install, when I opened the door. I feel like it didn’t before the install?
I plan on replacing the pump and valve block tonight or tomorrow. Is there a good way to “help” the car pump up from being fully lowered? Or does it have to be all pump on its own?
Thank you all!
—————
Also, when I put the car up, I did not disconnect the battery. My thinking was to remove the wheel liner and spray for bubbles while I try to run the pump. I’m reading the sensors could cause my system to dump air?
The system seemed to release air after the install, when I opened the door. I feel like it didn’t before the install?
I plan on replacing the pump and valve block tonight or tomorrow. Is there a good way to “help” the car pump up from being fully lowered? Or does it have to be all pump on its own?
Thank you all!
