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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
W211 DIY Brake Job
03-12-2013, 01:24 PM
#226
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2004 E320 4matic Sedan
Just had my service d done on my car and found out that front break needs to replaced. Can someone help me find the part number of break rotor, pad and left/right sensor so i can buy from online store such as RMeuropean.
Will stay with OEM GENUINE MERCEDES parts only for my 07 E350 with sport package without 4-matic.
Thanks in advance,
Will stay with OEM GENUINE MERCEDES parts only for my 07 E350 with sport package without 4-matic.
Thanks in advance,
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...s-catalog.html
03-12-2013, 03:44 PM
#227
Member
No luck on register at EPCnet online, but went ahead order at RMeuropen. I think I ordered the correct part for my 07 E350 with sport package without 4-matic.
Rotors
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._5C1313F8.aspx
Pads
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._5C1313F8.aspx
sensors
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._7937CD95.aspx
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._7937CD95.aspx
Rotors
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._5C1313F8.aspx
Pads
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._5C1313F8.aspx
sensors
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._7937CD95.aspx
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._7937CD95.aspx
10-17-2013, 02:34 PM
#228
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W211 e500
Big thanks to everyone who posted info on this job here. I decided to tackle it since I need to save money. I got rear rotors and brakes done in about three hours and had never before done a job like this on the car. Everything went just as described in the write ups. Tried to do the job without disconnecting the SBC, but as soon as I jacked up the car, the alarm sounded so I decided to go with the disconnection of the SBC and left the car unlocked. But I made sure no one opened the car and the key fob was far away. The only slight delay was with those 18mm bolts to take off the caliper mount. Man, those took some major exertion and I ended up hammering on the wrench to get them to loosen up. Other than that it went well. Also tried to push back the pistons by releasing the bleeder valve, but that turned out to be rather difficult mostly due to lack of a hose that would fit on the nipple to avoid getting air in system. Ended up using a clamp to push back the piston. Noted that you dont have to push them way back in as I was left with a lot of space once I put them back together. I turned on the car and pumped the brakes a few times and could hear the systme pumping up. No lights lit up with any warnings and it was so easy to get it started I thought I had done somehting wrong as I was expecting some challenges. the brakes run great and it cost me $144.00 for rotors, pads, sensor (1) and some like ketchup sized pack of brake grease. No tax, no shipping, deliverd to my door. Thanks to all the awesome info posted here, you guys are the best!
10-21-2013, 10:44 PM
#229
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
This was the easiest brake job I have EVER done (less than 20 minutes)...and I've done quite a few on different autos. And the cost to do this yourself is astounding ($102 vs $530 dealership quote). Here is a series of photos that may help others in their attempt.
1. Apply the parking brake, pull the hood lever, exit the car and set the key aside.
2. Open the hood a locate the SBC connector
3. Pull up the SBC Clip to unlock the connector
4. Pivot the connector backward to disengage and set aside
5. Lift car and remove tire. This is the before shot
6. Unplug Brake Pad connector and sensor
7. Tap out holding pins (I used a thin drill bit and a hammer to do this)
8. Remove pad holder
9. Compress piston using c-clamp or carefully with pliers (Not much force needed). DO THIS WHILE OLD PADS ARE STILL IN THE ASSEMBLY
10. Remove pads
11. Insert new pads
12. Re-insert pins
13. Hook pad holder under first pin then press down and insert second pin
14. Replug sensor and connector. I had to used the old one since Mercedesshop did not send that sensor for this side...even though this one is still unbroken I will replace tomorrow after purchase locally
15. All Done
Hope this helps someone!
1. Apply the parking brake, pull the hood lever, exit the car and set the key aside.
2. Open the hood a locate the SBC connector
3. Pull up the SBC Clip to unlock the connector
4. Pivot the connector backward to disengage and set aside
5. Lift car and remove tire. This is the before shot
6. Unplug Brake Pad connector and sensor
7. Tap out holding pins (I used a thin drill bit and a hammer to do this)
8. Remove pad holder
9. Compress piston using c-clamp or carefully with pliers (Not much force needed). DO THIS WHILE OLD PADS ARE STILL IN THE ASSEMBLY
10. Remove pads
11. Insert new pads
12. Re-insert pins
13. Hook pad holder under first pin then press down and insert second pin
14. Replug sensor and connector. I had to used the old one since Mercedesshop did not send that sensor for this side...even though this one is still unbroken I will replace tomorrow after purchase locally
15. All Done
Hope this helps someone!
Good day gentlemen! Im about to tackle this job really soon as the warning for pads worn are already lit. Ill do the rotors as well. Now i was qouted AU$1500 from my dealer, 1300 and 1200 from two independent shops. Went online and found a few drilled and slotted rotors with pads for around 500 and 250 for labor. Now if everything is as simple as everybody is saying here, might as well give it a go. Havent done anything like this before hut if it save me 250 from labor cost so be it. If anybody can REPOST photos aince i couldnt see pics 1-12, thatll be really great! Thanks a lot in advance for any help!
11-03-2013, 01:37 AM
#230
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2003 E500 Sport
Hello all, I visited this site about 6 months ago searching for DIY repair info on a 2003 e500 w211 front brake replacement and found the best illustrated PDF file on the subject. Does anyone have a link for that or info on where to get it? I thought I bookmarked it but apparently not, Thanks, Chris
11-17-2013, 10:56 PM
#231
Junior Member
Just did a front brake job to replace warped rotors (I failed to retorque them after a dealer service). Once you get the hang of how it works, this job is much easier that on other cars that I have done before. Tips: 1.To disconnect the SBC, pull the top tab up firmly until the two halves pop apart. I pulled too gently and there is a resistance halfway. Put a rag between the two halves to prevent accidental contact. 2. My wheels were firmly stuck on the car. Kicking the tire or hammering on the tire did not work, so I reinstalled the lug bolts, leaving them 1/2 turn loose. Backed the car onto the driveway, applied the brakes smartly, and heard them pop free. Cleaned off the rust on the mating surfaces and applied grease before reinstalling the wheels. Torqued the wheel bolts in two stages, plugged in the SBC, and when it pressurized upon inserting the key, had a hard pedal with no vibration. SWEET!
11-19-2013, 06:49 AM
#232
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
Just did a front brake job to replace warped rotors (I failed to retorque them after a dealer service). Once you get the hang of how it works, this job is much easier that on other cars that I have done before. Tips: 1.To disconnect the SBC, pull the top tab up firmly until the two halves pop apart. I pulled too gently and there is a resistance halfway. Put a rag between the two halves to prevent accidental contact. 2. My wheels were firmly stuck on the car. Kicking the tire or hammering on the tire did not work, so I reinstalled the lug bolts, leaving them 1/2 turn loose. Backed the car onto the driveway, applied the brakes smartly, and heard them pop free. Cleaned off the rust on the mating surfaces and applied grease before reinstalling the wheels. Torqued the wheel bolts in two stages, plugged in the SBC, and when it pressurized upon inserting the key, had a hard pedal with no vibration. SWEET!
Do I...
1. put the car in NEUTRAL?
2. Leave the foot brake off since im doin the rear as well?
Cheers!
11-19-2013, 09:04 AM
#233
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03 E500 and Corvette
Quick question mate, im replacing front and rear rotors and pads and sensors. So after i disconnect the sbc, leave the hood open, close the doors, leave the car UNLOCKED....
Do I...
1. put the car in NEUTRAL?
2. Leave the foot brake off since im doin the rear as well?
Cheers!
Do I...
1. put the car in NEUTRAL?
2. Leave the foot brake off since im doin the rear as well?
Cheers!
However one tip. When you compress the caliper piston open the bleed screw to vent out the old fluid vs pushing it back into the SBC system. Make sure you close the bleed screw before you take the pressure off the clamp to keep air out. Also check the fluid level to insure you aren't low.
AFTER you complete the entire system before you turn the key on.. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
1) make sure SBC is connected
2) All brakes completed
3) STEP ON THE BRAKE AND HOLD BEFORT YOU TURN THE KEY ON.............(why........when you turn the key on the SBC pump will run a few seconds to charge the system. This will have the pump running and your foot on the pedal will allow the pressure seat the pads on the rotors.)
4) With foot on the brake turn the key on
5) turn key off and release brake.
6) turn key on w/o start with foot off the brake.
7) check for warning lights.
11-19-2013, 11:32 AM
#234
Junior Member
I removed the key and shut the doors before starting the brake service, then disconnected the SBC. Once the SBC plug is disconnected, the SBC will not work anyway, but why take a chance?
When finished and plugged in again, as I recall, the the SBC will pressurize when you open the door. I waited for it to finish, checked the pedal for proper feel and operation, and drove off to seat the pads. I did not need to pump the pedal, as it was hard immediately.
No warning lights came on (there were none before starting the work).
FYI, the Bosch pads came with the right front brake wear sensor preinstalled, so I needn't have bought another.
When finished and plugged in again, as I recall, the the SBC will pressurize when you open the door. I waited for it to finish, checked the pedal for proper feel and operation, and drove off to seat the pads. I did not need to pump the pedal, as it was hard immediately.
No warning lights came on (there were none before starting the work).
FYI, the Bosch pads came with the right front brake wear sensor preinstalled, so I needn't have bought another.
Last edited by PeterLech; 11-19-2013 at 11:34 AM. Reason: add emphasis
11-19-2013, 04:45 PM
#235
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
I closed the door.
However one tip. When you compress the caliper piston open the bleed screw to vent out the old fluid vs pushing it back into the SBC system. Make sure you close the bleed screw before you take the pressure off the clamp to keep air out. Also check the fluid level to insure you aren't low.
AFTER you complete the entire system before you turn the key on.. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
1) make sure SBC is connected
2) All brakes completed
3) STEP ON THE BRAKE AND HOLD BEFORT YOU TURN THE KEY ON.............(why........when you turn the key on the SBC pump will run a few seconds to charge the system. This will have the pump running and your foot on the pedal will allow the pressure seat the pads on the rotors.)
4) With foot on the brake turn the key on
5) turn key off and release brake.
6) turn key on w/o start with foot off the brake.
7) check for warning lights.
However one tip. When you compress the caliper piston open the bleed screw to vent out the old fluid vs pushing it back into the SBC system. Make sure you close the bleed screw before you take the pressure off the clamp to keep air out. Also check the fluid level to insure you aren't low.
AFTER you complete the entire system before you turn the key on.. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
1) make sure SBC is connected
2) All brakes completed
3) STEP ON THE BRAKE AND HOLD BEFORT YOU TURN THE KEY ON.............(why........when you turn the key on the SBC pump will run a few seconds to charge the system. This will have the pump running and your foot on the pedal will allow the pressure seat the pads on the rotors.)
4) With foot on the brake turn the key on
5) turn key off and release brake.
6) turn key on w/o start with foot off the brake.
7) check for warning lights.
11-19-2013, 04:47 PM
#236
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
I removed the key and shut the doors before starting the brake service, then disconnected the SBC. Once the SBC plug is disconnected, the SBC will not work anyway, but why take a chance?
When finished and plugged in again, as I recall, the the SBC will pressurize when you open the door. I waited for it to finish, checked the pedal for proper feel and operation, and drove off to seat the pads. I did not need to pump the pedal, as it was hard immediately.
No warning lights came on (there were none before starting the work).
FYI, the Bosch pads came with the right front brake wear sensor preinstalled, so I needn't have bought another.
When finished and plugged in again, as I recall, the the SBC will pressurize when you open the door. I waited for it to finish, checked the pedal for proper feel and operation, and drove off to seat the pads. I did not need to pump the pedal, as it was hard immediately.
No warning lights came on (there were none before starting the work).
FYI, the Bosch pads came with the right front brake wear sensor preinstalled, so I needn't have bought another.
11-19-2013, 05:04 PM
#237
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03 E500 and Corvette
Make sure you use the correct DOT 4 Plus fluid as spec. for MB SBC.
11-19-2013, 07:14 PM
#238
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
IF you have disconnected the SBC plug you dont' need to lock the car. I left mine in park. Each time you turn the car on after it has been parked the SBC will activate to build system pressure. IF your foot is on the brake the pressure will insure the pads have seated. Be sure to check fluid level if you vented fluid you could be low on fluid and get another warning from being low.
Make sure you use the correct DOT 4 Plus fluid as spec. for MB SBC.
Make sure you use the correct DOT 4 Plus fluid as spec. for MB SBC.
11-20-2013, 08:24 AM
#241
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03 E500 and Corvette
I measured my rotors each time I changed pads. My rotors ran 126000 miles before they wore to a limit that I thought might go below on the next set of pads so I changed them out. They were still .040 over the minimum limit. Rotors run a long time. Measure them and verify the numbers and you might save some $$.
11-20-2013, 05:52 PM
#243
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03 E500 and Corvette
Yes I did. They were torqued to 90 ft #'s. Doesn't take much effort when someone works on the car to check it. I never had a rotor issue after all they are supposed to be torqued.
11-21-2013, 07:01 AM
#244
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
I measured my rotors each time I changed pads. My rotors ran 126000 miles before they wore to a limit that I thought might go below on the next set of pads so I changed them out. They were still .040 over the minimum limit. Rotors run a long time. Measure them and verify the numbers and you might save some $$.
11-21-2013, 11:58 AM
#246
Junior Member
I cannot speak specifically about ceramic pads for the MBZ, but my experience with them on other cars is that they are quieter and generate less dust than regular pads.
I used Bosch "QuietCast" pads and rotors this time, but it is too early to tell if they will be noisy or not. They are quiet now, but it takes some miles for the noise to develop.
I used Bosch "QuietCast" pads and rotors this time, but it is too early to tell if they will be noisy or not. They are quiet now, but it takes some miles for the noise to develop.
11-21-2013, 11:45 PM
#247
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
I cannot speak specifically about ceramic pads for the MBZ, but my experience with them on other cars is that they are quieter and generate less dust than regular pads.
I used Bosch "QuietCast" pads and rotors this time, but it is too early to tell if they will be noisy or not. They are quiet now, but it takes some miles for the noise to develop.
I used Bosch "QuietCast" pads and rotors this time, but it is too early to tell if they will be noisy or not. They are quiet now, but it takes some miles for the noise to develop.
12-04-2013, 06:11 AM
#248
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
Got all the parts i need and might do this asap. What specific tools do i need? Wrench size and all. I know i need a t30 torx bit for the rotor. What size do i need for the caliper bolt, pad sensor connector bolt, pad carrier bolts? I may or may not have the exact tools so i need to be sure before i start anything. Cheers!
12-08-2013, 04:59 AM
#249
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W204 C63 AMG, W212 E250 CGI, C207 E250 CGI
Finally had the time to do this yesterday. Considering that this is the first time i've done a brake job. I would'nt say its that hard as long as you have the right tools. Id say 3 out of ten. Thanks to Kevin of R1Concepts. Everything fitted as they should. Cheers mate! Thanks vettdvr and PeterLech for all the tips! You sure made it easier for me! Cheers guys!
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Last edited by beejAMG; 12-08-2013 at 03:11 PM.
02-08-2014, 01:34 AM
#250
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2003 E320
Hello everyone, I'm new here. I have or my wife has a 2003 E320 and I have been reading all 10 pages in the section about doing the brakes. I got so scared to do them I let my mechanic who maintains the car replace the front pads rotors were still ok. He told me I have 15% left in my rears and will need to get them replaced soon. The only thing I have done to her car is replace the cabin and 2 airfilters. I have done brakes on my honda and just replaced the brakes on my 02 f150 to include the wheel bearings. I'm familiar with changing out brakes and rotors but reading thru this forum I dont know if I want to touch it..
but I would like to change the rear rotors and pads
my ford was straight up easy and I have read some posts here that say the same about doing this car buy my concerns are:
1. SBC ok I can unplug it, leave the window down and lock the car or unlock the car confusing information.
2. Words like floating caliper take it off wrong and fluid will leak out. CRAP dont want to ruin anything.
There was a post by gabby188 all but the last 4 pictures show up so im not sure on the process..
I have tried to google and find videos read and read I have been trying to figure this out for about 3 weeks, like I said last week had my mechanic do the front
I know this has been such a beat up topic and I'm sorry that im just not 100% confident that i wont cause an error light or brakes not work.
Oh yeah Im the second owner bought the car with 46000 miles and my wife has put on a total of 160000 and she has NO plans of ever getting rid of her car she loves it so the more I can do the better for my wallet !!! Thanks
Tony
Im open to what ever info you want to share ! abaldi74@gmail.com
but I would like to change the rear rotors and pads
my ford was straight up easy and I have read some posts here that say the same about doing this car buy my concerns are:
1. SBC ok I can unplug it, leave the window down and lock the car or unlock the car confusing information.
2. Words like floating caliper take it off wrong and fluid will leak out. CRAP dont want to ruin anything.
There was a post by gabby188 all but the last 4 pictures show up so im not sure on the process..
I have tried to google and find videos read and read I have been trying to figure this out for about 3 weeks, like I said last week had my mechanic do the front
I know this has been such a beat up topic and I'm sorry that im just not 100% confident that i wont cause an error light or brakes not work.
Oh yeah Im the second owner bought the car with 46000 miles and my wife has put on a total of 160000 and she has NO plans of ever getting rid of her car she loves it so the more I can do the better for my wallet !!! Thanks
Tony
Im open to what ever info you want to share ! abaldi74@gmail.com
Last edited by Last2Die; 02-08-2014 at 01:41 AM. Reason: added contact info
