jlc1978

Just did rears on my 04 320 - followed this thread and have a few comments:

You'll need a 40 Torx head socket.

I put Blue Loktite on the threads.

Be sure you get the sensor - my fronts came boxed with them but rear did not so I am reusing the old sensor - it had not yet worn to the sensor but was close. Lucky, the sensor can be replace by just pulling the wheel and dropping a new one in if you don't have it on hand.

hamilton65

Not sure if this tool has been mentioned but check out this ATE service tool for doing brakes on W211

http://www.conti-online.com/generato...ilable_us.html

vettdvr

I thought that was the low price tool for about $350 vs the $10G's for the MB one.

emmel07

Ok needing some help from you experts here. I'm doing front brakes on a friend's 06 E350. I know the rotors are warped so new ones are necessary. There are three sizes of rotors to choose from, 11.6", 11.8" and 12" in diameter. Is the OEM standard size 11.6" and will either the 11.8" or the 12" be a simple bolt on affair?

That being said her rears are fine but for future reference are larger discs in the rear 11.8" or 12" a direct bolt on or is modding required? Newbie to MBs here so your help is appreciated.

This is where I'm referencing this sizes from. I'm going with EBC rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. Thank you for this write up as I'm finding the info very useful.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...d&refValue=EBC

pmay805

Hi Mike,

I saw your posting and I also have a 2003 E500. I've looked at the brakes and wonder if you could tell me if the whole caliper assembly will come off by removing the 2 large bolts from the rear? Do you know if they have to be removed individually and then the carrier bracket with the 2 bolts, or will it come off as one assembly?

Also, the rotors appear to be the kind with the large nut in the center. Does this nut have to be removed and then all the bearings, etc?

Any help appreciated.
Paul

oldcarguy010

Thanks for the help. I locked up the car to disable the SBC. Fronts were easy, but had trouble with the first rear caliper. Finally ended up with inserting a used pad and stepping on the brake to seat the new pads. Relocked the car and it worked.

Had tire shop rotate tires (free) to break sticking wheels loose
Use hanger tool for tires in tool kit
Bought 18mm Box end for the caliper bolts (no clearance) use hammer
Use C clamp to compress pistons
New front sensors, reused rear sensor-worn pad
The alarm does go off when the car is lowered.
Total cost $120, not bad, a 4 beer, 2 neighbor job
Changed at 64,000 miles. Do not have history a used car.

My problem the warning light has not gone off after a week of driving.
Is there any way for me to reset or do I need to go to my Mercedes shop?

vettdvr

My guess is the used rear sensor is broken giving the warning?

jimbo1mcm

Do a simple continuity test on the sensors, or simply replace each one with a new one to check it. The Brake Wear warning should disappear with all sensors working correctly. If, for some reason, the CEL light is on, it has to be reset with an OBD program.

oldcarguy010

I went to my independant Mercedes Repair shop. They said it was the rear sensor (I had used the old one). They also pointed out that the AutoZone durlast brake pads did not fit tight on the front brakes. They recommended OEM pads. I did not notice any noise.

Added cost $50.02, not bad

Thanks for your help, I should have replaced all the sensors.

vettdvr

Ahhhhhhhhhh so I did have a good guess!

ambleZ06

Well I followed the instructions that were mentioned in the first couple of pages. When I got to the first side I compressed the pad like I was supposed to, but unfortunately I did not open the bleed valve. Once I removed the pad one of the pistons was stuck out and I could not get it to compress back. I ended up having to remove all 4 hex bolts and remove that part of the caliper (mistake), subsequently losing a good bit of brake fluid. The rest of the job went very smoothly, and easy. Everything back together, I started the car via the keyless start, and I got the "brake malfunction"/ABS, etc error. I am thinking crap! No amount of driving/braking/restarting the car via keyless go was clearing up the error, but the brakes seemed to work fine (with the exception of non-working ABS). In my frustration I limped the car back home from my friends, and I came to the computer. I re-read this thread and noticed vettedvr's #97 post. What stuck out at me was that he said

So instead of using the keyless go to start the car I followed the above step, and the error messages disappeared. I drove the car down the street, and broke hard, then the messages came back. Tried the above procedure a couple of times, and the error message disappeared again. Now I drove the car around the subdivision for about 20 minutes, and the error did not re-appear. My question is am I going to have this problem again, or am I missing something here. TIA for any help.

vettdvr

My only thoughts are you might have air in the system and have to bleed the system.

ambleZ06

We did. At first things were not working as you would expect when bleeding brakes. Then fluid finally started to come out of the bleed valve. Right now the car is running normally as expected. I think that it may have just been alot of air in the system, that finally worked its way back to the brake fluid reservoir. Are you supposed to bleed the brakes with the SBC hooked up, or unhooked? We were bleeding them with it hooked up. More importantly is it because I switched from the keyless-go to the normal key start that resolved the issue, or was it just because the air finally worked its way out of the system. Thanks for quickly answering my post.

vettdvr

Without the big startrek computer and Scotty you normally would bleed the brakes with a pressure bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder with key and ignition both off.

Merked E320

I have done the brakes on my 2004 E320 two separate times; front rotors and all the pads. Normally after I finish the job, plug the SBC back in, turn the car on and pump the brakes it does the same thing; error messages and such. But then like you read above you need to turn it on again to get the error messages gone.

Now did you go out and drive right after doing that? Because if you let your car sit you can hear the SBC working for a little bit (like 5 minutes) and I would assume its pumping the fluid back in that you compress out when you open the calipers. Now if you went out and drove it instantly, that could explain the eraddic behavior. Just a thought.

ambleZ06

That is how we bleed them, I guess we did not do it enough. My friend said that fluid had started to come out of the bleed valve. Oddly, I drove the car to work and back today (40+ miles), and no errors. I parked the car in the driveway when I got home (which is on an incline). About an hour later I went to start it heading to the grocery store, and the errors came back. I stopped the car at the end of my subdivision, restarted it, and the errors disappeared again. I am also noticing feedback (soft vibrating) in the brake pedal when the SBC is active. I guess I am going to have to re-bleed them again.

I did drive it after we completed the job, but it was about 20 minutes after we were done. I guess this is what I get for trying to save some money by not taking it somewhere. My wife already hates this car (cost $4K in the month of April alone in repairs at the stealership). This is the first Mercedes that I have owned, and for the first few years it was problem free (as expected). O'well, you live and you learn.

pve320

Tools
13mm socket (caliper bolts)
11mm wrench (bleed nipple)
Caliper retract tool

Deactivate anti-tow switch (fwd overhead console switch)
Close all doors & trunk.
Remove key and activate alarm (lock vehicle) - this deactivates SBC
Do not open any doors, activate alarm remote or open trunk or SBC pump will run.
Remove brake wear sensor plug.
Unclip wear sensor and speed senor wiring from clips behind hub by hand - allows more play when caliper is removed.
Remove caliper bolts (13mm).
Remove caliper and rest on a box or similar aft of wheel hub approximately same height
Remove pads and spring clips
Install new spring clips (included in brake pad kit)
Fit sensor to one pad, install pad with senaor on inboard side position.
Install outboard pad.

Fit clear plastic pipe to bleed nipple. Compress caliper by using caliper press or G clamp whilst slightly opening bleed nipple (11mm) to allow brake fluid from caliper to flow out as caliper compresses (pushes in). Close / tighten nipple with fluid still flowing, I did not need to bleed brakes afterwards. Caliper will have to retract almost flush with caliper frame.

Install caliper over new pads - ensure brake wear wires are slid through caliper hole first.
Install caliper bolts (13mm).
Connect brake wear sensor plug.
Check tighten bleed nipple and install rubber cap.
Push brake wear & speed sensor wiring into clips behind hub.
Install wheel.

Open car door and you will hear the SBC run. Start car and press brake pedal - all should be normal.

Check brake fluid level (DOT 4)

aa240sx

I think your method seems to be the way to go to ensure that you don't get the Christmas Tree lights on your dash after you've done a brake job. From what I've read through on this mega thread for brakes, I see a few schools of thought

1 - follow the pdf procedure outlined in several earlier posts
2 - disconnect SBC clip
3 - your method
4 - do nothing at all and just arm the car, shut the door, and keep the keys away from you.

my question is, of these methods which one will actually trick the SBC into never knowing that the brakes were changed to cause a trip that creates the errors in the dashboard?

Or, regardless of which of the 4 methods used will the SBC cause errors because the calipers & pads have been pushed away from the rotors too far?

If it's the latter, would another way to avoid getting the error lights on the dash be to pump the brakes first before you ever start the car?

What's the consensus here? I'm doing the rear brakes on my w211 wagon this weekend and there's been one or two posts where the owner's lights never went away and they ended up going to the stealer to reset the FSS or the visit workshop light.

vettdvr

Exactly what I do. I get in and depress the brake pedal a few times. Then with the pedal depressed I turn the key on. This way the pads will have moved out. Turning the key on activates the SBC pump which if the pedal is down the pressure will seat the pads. At least that is my theory. I did the brake job 25,000 miles ago,, no warnings and all is well.

SIDE BAR NOTE:.. I always open the bleed screw when pushing the pistons into the caliper so the old fluid is not pushed back through the system.

aa240sx

Nice. However, how do you get in the car without triggering the SBC? What I was planning to do to ensure no error lights on the dash was:

1 - disconnect SBC cable. close doors, arm alarm. push anti-tow button on overhead console. put key in safe place.
2 - work on brakes
3 - reverse order step 1

If you open the driver door to get in to pump the pedal prior to activating SBC, wouldn't you inadvertantly activate SBC by opening the door? Do you leave the window rolled down and climb in dukes of hazard style, so no electronics get triggered?

argh - all this for a brake system that's not even in use anymore!

vettdvr

Finally. I won't buy another with this system. EVER!

aa240sx

Okay, Just did the rear brakes on my W211 Estate Wagon and if you're hesitating because of the SBC mechanism, don't. You can DIY!!!

Tools -
Pretty much as stated by PVE320

Tools
13mm socket (caliper bolts) for rears it will be the TORX 40
11mm wrench (bleed nipple)
Caliper retract tool

Deactivate anti-tow switch (fwd overhead console switch)
Close all doors & trunk.
Remove key and activate alarm (lock vehicle) - this deactivates SBC
Do not open any doors, activate alarm remote or open trunk or SBC pump will run.
For Added Measure, I opened the hood and disconnected the rather large SBC electrical connection.
Remove brake wear sensor plug.
Unclip wear sensor and speed senor wiring from clips behind hub by hand - allows more play when caliper is removed.
Remove caliper bolts (13mm).
Remove caliper and rest on a box or similar aft of wheel hub approximately same height
Remove pads and spring clips
Install new spring clips (included in brake pad kit)
Fit sensor to one pad, install pad with senaor on inboard side position.
Install outboard pad.

I was actually more concerned getting display errors when I went to start the car, so this is what I did to ensure no error lights.

Reconnect SBC plug. Close hood. Disarm alarm with your remote. Get in car and pump pedal, don't put the key in the ignition just yet. You'll hear the SBC pump activate to bring the pistons back up against the rotors. I did this a couple times to be safe. Then put key in ignition and fire it up.

In my experience, I received no error lights at all! Went out to bed the new pads. Job Done!

dewana421

guys just follow the procedure on this website and you can replace brake pads it all by yourself very easily.
http://www.davebarnhart.com/mbe350/

Chiro

Just a short note..when removing the SBC wiring harness I pulled up on the harness to unlock it and also removed the 25 torx screw that holds the harness to the SBC body. It was then easy to gently pry the entire harness off. Once the harness was off we proceeded to do the brake job as usual, opening car doors and turning the wheel to access caliper easly ..no problems. Take notice of which pad (inner or outer) holds the brake pad wear sensor and also look at all four front pads as receptacle holes for the sensors are positioned differently on two of them. Get it right the first time. Good luck ..not a difficult job. The only challenge was getting passanger rotor off...had to heat it and encourage it with a heavy hammer. Useed anti seize grease on reinstall.

hussainj79

I have never changed brakes in my life but i was able to manage and change all the pads.

One Questions.

The brakes are a little spongy, i think i have to bleed them. Any suggestions on what is the best way to go about and do this?