Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Mercedes Benz E Class How to Replace Brake pads/calipers/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
W211 DIY Brake Job
#176
Just did rears on my 04 320 - followed this thread and have a few comments:
You'll need a 40 Torx head socket.
I put Blue Loktite on the threads.
Be sure you get the sensor - my fronts came boxed with them but rear did not so I am reusing the old sensor - it had not yet worn to the sensor but was close. Lucky, the sensor can be replace by just pulling the wheel and dropping a new one in if you don't have it on hand.
You'll need a 40 Torx head socket.
I put Blue Loktite on the threads.
Be sure you get the sensor - my fronts came boxed with them but rear did not so I am reusing the old sensor - it had not yet worn to the sensor but was close. Lucky, the sensor can be replace by just pulling the wheel and dropping a new one in if you don't have it on hand.
#177
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2003 C240 Wagon 4-Matic, 1995 E320 Wagon
ATE Electronic service tool for W211
Not sure if this tool has been mentioned but check out this ATE service tool for doing brakes on W211
http://www.conti-online.com/generato...ilable_us.html
http://www.conti-online.com/generato...ilable_us.html
#178
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
03 E500 and Corvette
Not sure if this tool has been mentioned but check out this ATE service tool for doing brakes on W211
http://www.conti-online.com/generato...ilable_us.html
http://www.conti-online.com/generato...ilable_us.html
#179
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 S4, 2006 E320
Ok needing some help from you experts here. I'm doing front brakes on a friend's 06 E350. I know the rotors are warped so new ones are necessary. There are three sizes of rotors to choose from, 11.6", 11.8" and 12" in diameter. Is the OEM standard size 11.6" and will either the 11.8" or the 12" be a simple bolt on affair?
That being said her rears are fine but for future reference are larger discs in the rear 11.8" or 12" a direct bolt on or is modding required? Newbie to MBs here so your help is appreciated.
This is where I'm referencing this sizes from. I'm going with EBC rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. Thank you for this write up as I'm finding the info very useful.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...d&refValue=EBC
That being said her rears are fine but for future reference are larger discs in the rear 11.8" or 12" a direct bolt on or is modding required? Newbie to MBs here so your help is appreciated.
This is where I'm referencing this sizes from. I'm going with EBC rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. Thank you for this write up as I'm finding the info very useful.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...d&refValue=EBC
Last edited by emmel07; 09-14-2009 at 02:17 PM.
#180
Removing Calipers and Rotors on the E500
Hi Mike,
I saw your posting and I also have a 2003 E500. I've looked at the brakes and wonder if you could tell me if the whole caliper assembly will come off by removing the 2 large bolts from the rear? Do you know if they have to be removed individually and then the carrier bracket with the 2 bolts, or will it come off as one assembly?
Also, the rotors appear to be the kind with the large nut in the center. Does this nut have to be removed and then all the bearings, etc?
Any help appreciated.
Paul
I saw your posting and I also have a 2003 E500. I've looked at the brakes and wonder if you could tell me if the whole caliper assembly will come off by removing the 2 large bolts from the rear? Do you know if they have to be removed individually and then the carrier bracket with the 2 bolts, or will it come off as one assembly?
Also, the rotors appear to be the kind with the large nut in the center. Does this nut have to be removed and then all the bearings, etc?
Any help appreciated.
Paul
Steve,
I would agree with you and say that my labor is most likely more detailed than that of the average MB mechanic because I don't have to worry about the money I may lose on the next car in line! Here are some of the answers to your questions:
1). My car is a 2003 E500.
2). There are sensors on both front wheels and one rear wheel.
3). The rear sensor is located on the passenger side brake pad.
4). I do not have a camera available to take a picture of the SBC unit, but on the E500 it is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger side. It is very clear as to what it is since it has SBC embossed on it as well as all of the brake lines exiting it. You have to pull up on a clip and then the plug assembly with pivot towards the back of the car.
5). I will post some pictures as soon as my new camera and computer arrive, hopefully later this week.
I did have to go to MB to get a sensor today since I broke one of mine. It cost me $6.66 only, so I would just get all three before starting the job and replace them since they are so cheap. Let me know if you need any other information. Thanks.
Mike
I would agree with you and say that my labor is most likely more detailed than that of the average MB mechanic because I don't have to worry about the money I may lose on the next car in line! Here are some of the answers to your questions:
1). My car is a 2003 E500.
2). There are sensors on both front wheels and one rear wheel.
3). The rear sensor is located on the passenger side brake pad.
4). I do not have a camera available to take a picture of the SBC unit, but on the E500 it is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger side. It is very clear as to what it is since it has SBC embossed on it as well as all of the brake lines exiting it. You have to pull up on a clip and then the plug assembly with pivot towards the back of the car.
5). I will post some pictures as soon as my new camera and computer arrive, hopefully later this week.
I did have to go to MB to get a sensor today since I broke one of mine. It cost me $6.66 only, so I would just get all three before starting the job and replace them since they are so cheap. Let me know if you need any other information. Thanks.
Mike
#181
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2003 E320 1997 BMW Z3 2008 VW EOS
2003 E320 Brake Job
Thanks for the help. I locked up the car to disable the SBC. Fronts were easy, but had trouble with the first rear caliper. Finally ended up with inserting a used pad and stepping on the brake to seat the new pads. Relocked the car and it worked.
Had tire shop rotate tires (free) to break sticking wheels loose
Use hanger tool for tires in tool kit
Bought 18mm Box end for the caliper bolts (no clearance) use hammer
Use C clamp to compress pistons
New front sensors, reused rear sensor-worn pad
The alarm does go off when the car is lowered.
Total cost $120, not bad, a 4 beer, 2 neighbor job
Changed at 64,000 miles. Do not have history a used car.
My problem the warning light has not gone off after a week of driving.
Is there any way for me to reset or do I need to go to my Mercedes shop?
Had tire shop rotate tires (free) to break sticking wheels loose
Use hanger tool for tires in tool kit
Bought 18mm Box end for the caliper bolts (no clearance) use hammer
Use C clamp to compress pistons
New front sensors, reused rear sensor-worn pad
The alarm does go off when the car is lowered.
Total cost $120, not bad, a 4 beer, 2 neighbor job
Changed at 64,000 miles. Do not have history a used car.
My problem the warning light has not gone off after a week of driving.
Is there any way for me to reset or do I need to go to my Mercedes shop?
#182
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
03 E500 and Corvette
Thanks for the help. I locked up the car to disable the SBC. Fronts were easy, but had trouble with the first rear caliper. Finally ended up with inserting a used pad and stepping on the brake to seat the new pads. Relocked the car and it worked.
Had tire shop rotate tires (free) to break sticking wheels loose
Use hanger tool for tires in tool kit
Bought 18mm Box end for the caliper bolts (no clearance) use hammer
Use C clamp to compress pistons
New front sensors, reused rear sensor-worn pad
The alarm does go off when the car is lowered.
Total cost $120, not bad, a 4 beer, 2 neighbor job
Changed at 64,000 miles. Do not have history a used car.
My problem the warning light has not gone off after a week of driving.
Is there any way for me to reset or do I need to go to my Mercedes shop?
Had tire shop rotate tires (free) to break sticking wheels loose
Use hanger tool for tires in tool kit
Bought 18mm Box end for the caliper bolts (no clearance) use hammer
Use C clamp to compress pistons
New front sensors, reused rear sensor-worn pad
The alarm does go off when the car is lowered.
Total cost $120, not bad, a 4 beer, 2 neighbor job
Changed at 64,000 miles. Do not have history a used car.
My problem the warning light has not gone off after a week of driving.
Is there any way for me to reset or do I need to go to my Mercedes shop?
#183
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: ct
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
All Diesel Fleet !1983 240d stick,2005 E320 CDI Midnight blue, 2005 E320 CDI, Desert Silver, Kubota
Check sensors first.
Do a simple continuity test on the sensors, or simply replace each one with a new one to check it. The Brake Wear warning should disappear with all sensors working correctly. If, for some reason, the CEL light is on, it has to be reset with an OBD program.
#184
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2003 E320 1997 BMW Z3 2008 VW EOS
Brake sensor
I went to my independant Mercedes Repair shop. They said it was the rear sensor (I had used the old one). They also pointed out that the AutoZone durlast brake pads did not fit tight on the front brakes. They recommended OEM pads. I did not notice any noise.
Added cost $50.02, not bad
Thanks for your help, I should have replaced all the sensors.
Added cost $50.02, not bad
Thanks for your help, I should have replaced all the sensors.
Last edited by oldcarguy010; 10-13-2009 at 11:40 AM. Reason: Forgot cost
#185
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
03 E500 and Corvette
I went to my independant Mercedes Repair shop. They said it was the rear sensor (I had used the old one). They also pointed out that the AutoZone durlast brake pads did not fit tight on the front brakes. They recommended OEM pads. I did not notice any noise.
Added cost $50.02, not bad
Thanks for your help, I should have replaced all the sensors.
Added cost $50.02, not bad
Thanks for your help, I should have replaced all the sensors.
#186
Well I followed the instructions that were mentioned in the first couple of pages. When I got to the first side I compressed the pad like I was supposed to, but unfortunately I did not open the bleed valve. Once I removed the pad one of the pistons was stuck out and I could not get it to compress back. I ended up having to remove all 4 hex bolts and remove that part of the caliper (mistake), subsequently losing a good bit of brake fluid. The rest of the job went very smoothly, and easy. Everything back together, I started the car via the keyless start, and I got the "brake malfunction"/ABS, etc error. I am thinking crap! No amount of driving/braking/restarting the car via keyless go was clearing up the error, but the brakes seemed to work fine (with the exception of non-working ABS). In my frustration I limped the car back home from my friends, and I came to the computer. I re-read this thread and noticed vettedvr's #97 post. What stuck out at me was that he said
So instead of using the keyless go to start the car I followed the above step, and the error messages disappeared. I drove the car down the street, and broke hard, then the messages came back. Tried the above procedure a couple of times, and the error message disappeared again. Now I drove the car around the subdivision for about 20 minutes, and the error did not re-appear. My question is am I going to have this problem again, or am I missing something here. TIA for any help.
put the key in. I started the car, depressed the brake, Shut it off, then repeat the step 1 more time and the alarms cleared.
Last edited by ambleZ06; 11-08-2009 at 05:30 PM.
#187
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
03 E500 and Corvette
Well I followed the instructions that were mentioned in the first couple of pages. When I got to the first side I compressed the pad like I was supposed to, but unfortunately I did not open the bleed valve. Once I removed the pad one of the pistons was stuck out and I could not get it to compress back. I ended up having to remove all 4 hex bolts and remove that part of the caliper (mistake), subsequently losing a good bit of brake fluid. The rest of the job went very smoothly, and easy. Everything back together, I started the car via the keyless start, and I got the "brake malfunction"/ABS, etc error. I am thinking crap! No amount of driving/braking/restarting the car via keyless go was clearing up the error, but the brakes seemed to work fine (with the exception of non-working ABS). In my frustration I limped the car back home from my friends, and I came to the computer. I re-read this thread and noticed vettedvr's #97 post. What stuck out at me was that he said
So instead of using the keyless go to start the car I followed the above step, and the error messages disappeared. I drove the car down the street, and broke hard, then the messages came back. Tried the above procedure a couple of times, and the error message disappeared again. Now I drove the car around the subdivision for about 20 minutes, and the error did not re-appear. My question is am I going to have this problem again, or am I missing something here. TIA for any help.
So instead of using the keyless go to start the car I followed the above step, and the error messages disappeared. I drove the car down the street, and broke hard, then the messages came back. Tried the above procedure a couple of times, and the error message disappeared again. Now I drove the car around the subdivision for about 20 minutes, and the error did not re-appear. My question is am I going to have this problem again, or am I missing something here. TIA for any help.
#188
We did. At first things were not working as you would expect when bleeding brakes. Then fluid finally started to come out of the bleed valve. Right now the car is running normally as expected. I think that it may have just been alot of air in the system, that finally worked its way back to the brake fluid reservoir. Are you supposed to bleed the brakes with the SBC hooked up, or unhooked? We were bleeding them with it hooked up. More importantly is it because I switched from the keyless-go to the normal key start that resolved the issue, or was it just because the air finally worked its way out of the system. Thanks for quickly answering my post.
Last edited by ambleZ06; 11-08-2009 at 06:01 PM.
#189
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
03 E500 and Corvette
We did. At first things were not working as you would expect when bleeding brakes. Then fluid finally started to come out of the bleed valve. Right now the car is running normally as expected. I think that it may have just been alot of air in the system, that finally worked its way back to the brake fluid reservoir. Are you supposed to bleed the brakes with the SBC hooked up, or unhooked? We were bleeding them with it hooked up. More importantly is it because I switched from the keyless-go to the normal key start that resolved the issue, or was it just because the air finally worked its way out of the system. Thanks for quickly answering my post.
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#190
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2004 E320
I have done the brakes on my 2004 E320 two separate times; front rotors and all the pads. Normally after I finish the job, plug the SBC back in, turn the car on and pump the brakes it does the same thing; error messages and such. But then like you read above you need to turn it on again to get the error messages gone.
Now did you go out and drive right after doing that? Because if you let your car sit you can hear the SBC working for a little bit (like 5 minutes) and I would assume its pumping the fluid back in that you compress out when you open the calipers. Now if you went out and drove it instantly, that could explain the eraddic behavior. Just a thought.
Now did you go out and drive right after doing that? Because if you let your car sit you can hear the SBC working for a little bit (like 5 minutes) and I would assume its pumping the fluid back in that you compress out when you open the calipers. Now if you went out and drove it instantly, that could explain the eraddic behavior. Just a thought.
#191
I have done the brakes on my 2004 E320 two separate times; front rotors and all the pads. Normally after I finish the job, plug the SBC back in, turn the car on and pump the brakes it does the same thing; error messages and such. But then like you read above you need to turn it on again to get the error messages gone.
Now did you go out and drive right after doing that? Because if you let your car sit you can hear the SBC working for a little bit (like 5 minutes) and I would assume its pumping the fluid back in that you compress out when you open the calipers. Now if you went out and drove it instantly, that could explain the eraddic behavior. Just a thought.
Now did you go out and drive right after doing that? Because if you let your car sit you can hear the SBC working for a little bit (like 5 minutes) and I would assume its pumping the fluid back in that you compress out when you open the calipers. Now if you went out and drove it instantly, that could explain the eraddic behavior. Just a thought.
#192
2005 E320 Front Brake Pads
Tools
13mm socket (caliper bolts)
11mm wrench (bleed nipple)
Caliper retract tool
Deactivate anti-tow switch (fwd overhead console switch)
Close all doors & trunk.
Remove key and activate alarm (lock vehicle) - this deactivates SBC
Do not open any doors, activate alarm remote or open trunk or SBC pump will run.
Remove brake wear sensor plug.
Unclip wear sensor and speed senor wiring from clips behind hub by hand - allows more play when caliper is removed.
Remove caliper bolts (13mm).
Remove caliper and rest on a box or similar aft of wheel hub approximately same height
Remove pads and spring clips
Install new spring clips (included in brake pad kit)
Fit sensor to one pad, install pad with senaor on inboard side position.
Install outboard pad.
Fit clear plastic pipe to bleed nipple. Compress caliper by using caliper press or G clamp whilst slightly opening bleed nipple (11mm) to allow brake fluid from caliper to flow out as caliper compresses (pushes in). Close / tighten nipple with fluid still flowing, I did not need to bleed brakes afterwards. Caliper will have to retract almost flush with caliper frame.
Install caliper over new pads - ensure brake wear wires are slid through caliper hole first.
Install caliper bolts (13mm).
Connect brake wear sensor plug.
Check tighten bleed nipple and install rubber cap.
Push brake wear & speed sensor wiring into clips behind hub.
Install wheel.
Open car door and you will hear the SBC run. Start car and press brake pedal - all should be normal.
Check brake fluid level (DOT 4)
13mm socket (caliper bolts)
11mm wrench (bleed nipple)
Caliper retract tool
Deactivate anti-tow switch (fwd overhead console switch)
Close all doors & trunk.
Remove key and activate alarm (lock vehicle) - this deactivates SBC
Do not open any doors, activate alarm remote or open trunk or SBC pump will run.
Remove brake wear sensor plug.
Unclip wear sensor and speed senor wiring from clips behind hub by hand - allows more play when caliper is removed.
Remove caliper bolts (13mm).
Remove caliper and rest on a box or similar aft of wheel hub approximately same height
Remove pads and spring clips
Install new spring clips (included in brake pad kit)
Fit sensor to one pad, install pad with senaor on inboard side position.
Install outboard pad.
Fit clear plastic pipe to bleed nipple. Compress caliper by using caliper press or G clamp whilst slightly opening bleed nipple (11mm) to allow brake fluid from caliper to flow out as caliper compresses (pushes in). Close / tighten nipple with fluid still flowing, I did not need to bleed brakes afterwards. Caliper will have to retract almost flush with caliper frame.
Install caliper over new pads - ensure brake wear wires are slid through caliper hole first.
Install caliper bolts (13mm).
Connect brake wear sensor plug.
Check tighten bleed nipple and install rubber cap.
Push brake wear & speed sensor wiring into clips behind hub.
Install wheel.
Open car door and you will hear the SBC run. Start car and press brake pedal - all should be normal.
Check brake fluid level (DOT 4)
#193
PVE320 DIY method 2005 W211
I think your method seems to be the way to go to ensure that you don't get the Christmas Tree lights on your dash after you've done a brake job. From what I've read through on this mega thread for brakes, I see a few schools of thought
1 - follow the pdf procedure outlined in several earlier posts
2 - disconnect SBC clip
3 - your method
4 - do nothing at all and just arm the car, shut the door, and keep the keys away from you.
my question is, of these methods which one will actually trick the SBC into never knowing that the brakes were changed to cause a trip that creates the errors in the dashboard?
Or, regardless of which of the 4 methods used will the SBC cause errors because the calipers & pads have been pushed away from the rotors too far?
If it's the latter, would another way to avoid getting the error lights on the dash be to pump the brakes first before you ever start the car?
What's the consensus here? I'm doing the rear brakes on my w211 wagon this weekend and there's been one or two posts where the owner's lights never went away and they ended up going to the stealer to reset the FSS or the visit workshop light.
1 - follow the pdf procedure outlined in several earlier posts
2 - disconnect SBC clip
3 - your method
4 - do nothing at all and just arm the car, shut the door, and keep the keys away from you.
my question is, of these methods which one will actually trick the SBC into never knowing that the brakes were changed to cause a trip that creates the errors in the dashboard?
Or, regardless of which of the 4 methods used will the SBC cause errors because the calipers & pads have been pushed away from the rotors too far?
If it's the latter, would another way to avoid getting the error lights on the dash be to pump the brakes first before you ever start the car?
What's the consensus here? I'm doing the rear brakes on my w211 wagon this weekend and there's been one or two posts where the owner's lights never went away and they ended up going to the stealer to reset the FSS or the visit workshop light.
#194
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
03 E500 and Corvette
..........
Or, regardless of which of the 4 methods used will the SBC cause errors because the calipers & pads have been pushed away from the rotors too far?
If it's the latter, would another way to avoid getting the error lights on the dash be to pump the brakes first before you ever start the car?
Or, regardless of which of the 4 methods used will the SBC cause errors because the calipers & pads have been pushed away from the rotors too far?
If it's the latter, would another way to avoid getting the error lights on the dash be to pump the brakes first before you ever start the car?
SIDE BAR NOTE:.. I always open the bleed screw when pushing the pistons into the caliper so the old fluid is not pushed back through the system.
#195
Exactly what I do. I get in and depress the brake pedal a few times. Then with the pedal depressed I turn the key on. This way the pads will have moved out. Turning the key on activates the SBC pump which if the pedal is down the pressure will seat the pads. At least that is my theory. I did the brake job 25,000 miles ago,, no warnings and all is well.
SIDE BAR NOTE:.. I always open the bleed screw when pushing the pistons into the caliper so the old fluid is not pushed back through the system.
SIDE BAR NOTE:.. I always open the bleed screw when pushing the pistons into the caliper so the old fluid is not pushed back through the system.
1 - disconnect SBC cable. close doors, arm alarm. push anti-tow button on overhead console. put key in safe place.
2 - work on brakes
3 - reverse order step 1
If you open the driver door to get in to pump the pedal prior to activating SBC, wouldn't you inadvertantly activate SBC by opening the door? Do you leave the window rolled down and climb in dukes of hazard style, so no electronics get triggered?
argh - all this for a brake system that's not even in use anymore!
#197
Okay, Just did the rear brakes on my W211 Estate Wagon and if you're hesitating because of the SBC mechanism, don't. You can DIY!!!
Tools -
Pretty much as stated by PVE320
Tools
13mm socket (caliper bolts) for rears it will be the TORX 40
11mm wrench (bleed nipple)
Caliper retract tool
Deactivate anti-tow switch (fwd overhead console switch)
Close all doors & trunk.
Remove key and activate alarm (lock vehicle) - this deactivates SBC
Do not open any doors, activate alarm remote or open trunk or SBC pump will run.
For Added Measure, I opened the hood and disconnected the rather large SBC electrical connection.
Remove brake wear sensor plug.
Unclip wear sensor and speed senor wiring from clips behind hub by hand - allows more play when caliper is removed.
Remove caliper bolts (13mm).
Remove caliper and rest on a box or similar aft of wheel hub approximately same height
Remove pads and spring clips
Install new spring clips (included in brake pad kit)
Fit sensor to one pad, install pad with senaor on inboard side position.
Install outboard pad.
I was actually more concerned getting display errors when I went to start the car, so this is what I did to ensure no error lights.
Reconnect SBC plug. Close hood. Disarm alarm with your remote. Get in car and pump pedal, don't put the key in the ignition just yet. You'll hear the SBC pump activate to bring the pistons back up against the rotors. I did this a couple times to be safe. Then put key in ignition and fire it up.
In my experience, I received no error lights at all! Went out to bed the new pads. Job Done!
Tools -
Pretty much as stated by PVE320
Tools
13mm socket (caliper bolts) for rears it will be the TORX 40
11mm wrench (bleed nipple)
Caliper retract tool
Deactivate anti-tow switch (fwd overhead console switch)
Close all doors & trunk.
Remove key and activate alarm (lock vehicle) - this deactivates SBC
Do not open any doors, activate alarm remote or open trunk or SBC pump will run.
For Added Measure, I opened the hood and disconnected the rather large SBC electrical connection.
Remove brake wear sensor plug.
Unclip wear sensor and speed senor wiring from clips behind hub by hand - allows more play when caliper is removed.
Remove caliper bolts (13mm).
Remove caliper and rest on a box or similar aft of wheel hub approximately same height
Remove pads and spring clips
Install new spring clips (included in brake pad kit)
Fit sensor to one pad, install pad with senaor on inboard side position.
Install outboard pad.
I was actually more concerned getting display errors when I went to start the car, so this is what I did to ensure no error lights.
Reconnect SBC plug. Close hood. Disarm alarm with your remote. Get in car and pump pedal, don't put the key in the ignition just yet. You'll hear the SBC pump activate to bring the pistons back up against the rotors. I did this a couple times to be safe. Then put key in ignition and fire it up.
In my experience, I received no error lights at all! Went out to bed the new pads. Job Done!
#198
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: west palm beach USA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
E320 2004 model Silver sedan
guys just follow the procedure on this website and you can replace brake pads it all by yourself very easily.
http://www.davebarnhart.com/mbe350/
http://www.davebarnhart.com/mbe350/
#199
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Vancouver Canada
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1991 190E:1998 E320 4Matic wagon : 2000 E320 4Matic
Just a short note..when removing the SBC wiring harness I pulled up on the harness to unlock it and also removed the 25 torx screw that holds the harness to the SBC body. It was then easy to gently pry the entire harness off. Once the harness was off we proceeded to do the brake job as usual, opening car doors and turning the wheel to access caliper easly ..no problems. Take notice of which pad (inner or outer) holds the brake pad wear sensor and also look at all four front pads as receptacle holes for the sensors are positioned differently on two of them. Get it right the first time. Good luck ..not a difficult job. The only challenge was getting passanger rotor off...had to heat it and encourage it with a heavy hammer. Useed anti seize grease on reinstall.
#200
I have never changed brakes in my life but i was able to manage and change all the pads.
One Questions.
The brakes are a little spongy, i think i have to bleed them. Any suggestions on what is the best way to go about and do this?
One Questions.
The brakes are a little spongy, i think i have to bleed them. Any suggestions on what is the best way to go about and do this?