Jun 10, 2015, 12:13 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Mercedes Benz E Class How to Replace Brake pads/calipers/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
W211 DIY Brake Job
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2004 E320
brakes
I have had the "brake visit workshop" warning coming on lately. I checked all 4 corners and all of the pads have about 50% left on them. So I decided to check the sensors. The rear sensor was bad, so I replaced it. To me, it looked like a previous brake job failed to replace the sensor because there is still about 2mm before it should be tripping. Took the car for a test drive and the light came on again.
Is there something that I need to reset to get rid of the light? Any other suggestions?
2004 e 320 rwd
Is there something that I need to reset to get rid of the light? Any other suggestions?
2004 e 320 rwd
Thanks for the tips all, I'll check into these things and let you know. Any other thoughts are appreciated too!
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 164
Likes: 1
From: Grand Prairie Texas
'24 GLE53 AMG Coupe
I love this thread. My brakes are squealing a lil, and I've ordered some Porterfield pads....
I'm printing the instructions, getting a pack of Red Stripe (yay beer!) and heading for the garage......
I'm printing the instructions, getting a pack of Red Stripe (yay beer!) and heading for the garage......
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
I just installed new pads and rotors on my 2003 E500 after much deliberation. There has not really been a consensus on whether this was possible without disabling the SBC. I am glad to say that not only is it possible, but it is fairly easy. I just unplugged the SBC and went to work. I installed cross-drilled, slotted, and plated rotors (factory Brembo) at all four corners as well as a set of Pagid brake pads (all purchased from Sport Brakes). The only problem I had was with one of my brake pad sensors breaking. I would recommend having three (two for the front and one for the rear) on hand just in case. The brakes look great and I am anxious to see how they perform. The cross-drilling and slotting was mainly done for looks as I do not drive this car very hard. Total cost to do all four wheels was $550, much cheaper than the local dealer was going to charge and with better parts. Total time was about three hours, which included cleaning the wheels front and back and cleaning the calipers. I would rate this job a 4 on a scale of 1-10. Any weekend mechanic should be able to perform this and save some money while improving the performance and looks of their car. 
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
After finishing I took the car out for a spin and the ABS , ESP and Brake service messages appeared and power steering boost was at 50%. I discovered one of the new sensors was bad. Replaced it and did all the re-initialize routines but the messages are still there. Would that cause this and is a visit to the dealer needed to clear the display?
If the sensor was bad and the brakes are and work ok,, drive it a while to give the computer time to reset and see if the alarm goes out.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
learned the hard way ( hope this helps )
Nope that did not do it. Turns out that removing the rotor and hub has a gotcha. The seals are the magnetic source for the speed sensors. They have a small spring that is packed in grease inside them in the hub. If you put the hub on without resetting the spring in grease and they come loose then you are out the money for the dealer to do new $9.00 seals ( $500.00 labor). Ouch . Of course I read about this on another site this afternoon. But I am still ahead $400 parts( all 4 wheels ) + $500 gotcha still < original $1200.00 for the fronts alone . Cheers !
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
Nope that did not do it. Turns out that removing the rotor and hub has a gotcha. The seals are the magnetic source for the speed sensors. They have a small spring that is packed in grease inside them in the hub. If you put the hub on without resetting the spring in grease and they come loose then you are out the money for the dealer to do new $9.00 seals ( $500.00 labor). Ouch . Of course I read about this on another site this afternoon. But I am still ahead $400 parts( all 4 wheels ) + $500 gotcha still < original $1200.00 for the fronts alone . Cheers !
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
No pics but I bet this is common and if you do not know to repack the spring inside the seal you get all kinds of warnings. I hope the next guy will see this!
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2004 E320
Brake Sensors
I read many other threads and did not see anything that answered this question. If there is a thread let me know.
One of the brake sensors (front left) is designed to go off first at about 50% of wear (from what I've read in these posts). Is it going to continually cause the "brake visit workshop" warning light to come on until I change the pads and sensor? Or is it designed to stop warning you after a certain amount of time AND THEN come on again when one of the other sensors is activated?
One of the brake sensors (front left) is designed to go off first at about 50% of wear (from what I've read in these posts). Is it going to continually cause the "brake visit workshop" warning light to come on until I change the pads and sensor? Or is it designed to stop warning you after a certain amount of time AND THEN come on again when one of the other sensors is activated?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
[QUOTE=mere320;3070791]One of the brake sensors (front left) is designed to go off first at about 50% of wear (from what I've read in these posts). Is it going to continually cause the "brake visit workshop" warning light to come on until I change the pads and sensor? QUOTE]
No.
The 50 % wear will only give you a + after the mileage for the next service in the FSS menu. When you wear to the second front sensor you should get a brake workshop warning.
No.
The 50 % wear will only give you a + after the mileage for the next service in the FSS menu. When you wear to the second front sensor you should get a brake workshop warning.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2004 E320
Brake Sensors
Well, I'm still getting the "brake visit workshop" light even though the other sensors are fine. I think it's time to try the stop lamp switch.
Unless there is something else I should check first???
Unless there is something else I should check first???
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
There are several things that can give the brake workshop.
The sensors for sure if worn down, the brake switch and I don't know all the others. Given you have the SBC system if your brake switch is not defective, your pads and sensors are good I would let the dealer check it out with his bizillion $$ computer that you don't have access to .
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque
2003 E320
One additional note on the 50% wear sensor. It has been disabled on a lot of the 211s, including mine. I had noise in the radio and the explanation I got was that the frayed wires from this sensor would give radio noise. The dealer said it was a known problem and clipped the wire to the sensor. No more interference.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
One additional note on the 50% wear sensor. It has been disabled on a lot of the 211s, including mine. I had noise in the radio and the explanation I got was that the frayed wires from this sensor would give radio noise. The dealer said it was a known problem and clipped the wire to the sensor. No more interference.
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
98 C43
2006 E320 CDI
Just replaced my front and rear pads with Axxis Delux pads. Dustless pads. Took about 2.5 hours taking my time. All of the posts were very helpful.
My car has floating calipers F/R. So the fronts you remove the holding bolts (13mm) and the rears have a spring clip and 2 torx bolts (40).
Got all the red warning lights when back together but after a few cycles of turning the car on and off and pumping brake pedal all is good.
I then bed-in the brakes using the procedure below.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Just replaced my front and rear pads with Axxis Delux pads. Dustless pads. Took about 2.5 hours taking my time. All of the posts were very helpful.
My car has floating calipers F/R. So the fronts you remove the holding bolts (13mm) and the rears have a spring clip and 2 torx bolts (40).
Got all the red warning lights when back together but after a few cycles of turning the car on and off and pumping brake pedal all is good.
I then bed-in the brakes using the procedure below.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 11
E550
2007 E550 Brakes
How much do the procedures outlined in this thread change for a 2007 E550?
I do not believe my car has the SBC, correct? If so, is there anything that needs to be disconnected, or may I proceed "just like any car?"
Thanks in advance for the help.
I do not believe my car has the SBC, correct? If so, is there anything that needs to be disconnected, or may I proceed "just like any car?"
Thanks in advance for the help.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
I would expect the actual brake rotor,pad,caliper to use the same procedure but I would never consider a MB "like any car" as there can always be a suprise. But IMO I found in most cases the MB much easier to make repairs compared to any car.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Canton (North Metro Atlanta), Georgia
2003 E500
I wanted to share the deal I got with you guys. I'm going to do this myself in the next week or two.
I called up Rob at MB of West Chester (513) 870.1030 and he hooked me up (as well as others on the forum). 2 front brake pads (OEM Mercedes) for $74 and the sensors for $6 each. Hard to beat that!
I called up Rob at MB of West Chester (513) 870.1030 and he hooked me up (as well as others on the forum). 2 front brake pads (OEM Mercedes) for $74 and the sensors for $6 each. Hard to beat that!
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 164
Likes: 1
From: Grand Prairie Texas
'24 GLE53 AMG Coupe
Guess what guys!!!!
Following Burkett's instructions, I changed my brake pads..... and it was so easy, so seamless, even the GEICO Caveman could do it!!!!!
You guys rock!!!!!
Following Burkett's instructions, I changed my brake pads..... and it was so easy, so seamless, even the GEICO Caveman could do it!!!!!
You guys rock!!!!!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,017
Likes: 16
From: Ft. Lauderdale Area, USA
2015 ML 350
2007's do not have SBC.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
I was impressed with how easy it was vs. how much the dealer charged me to do it.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Canton (North Metro Atlanta), Georgia
2003 E500
Hi Guys,
I've only changed 3 sets of brakes before trying this on my Mercedes. After trying to fool around with the SBC for 5 minutes, I read where I could just leave it alone...and I did! I couldn't get it unhooked after pulling up on the clip.
That being said, if you want OEM pads like what I got, call Rob at MB of Westchester (OH). I'm in Atlanta and got referred to him. Two front pads and 2 sensors only cost me $86! He's hooked me up on other parts too in the past. Great guy. Tell him Nick from GA sent you.
The process was really easy...even by not having all the pictures. DEFINITELY GET BRAKE CLEANER. That made the process much easier. The longest part, besides getting the wheels off and putting back on, was getting the pins loose. That's where spraying really came into play.
I compressed the pistons carefully with large pliers, and from there, the pads will come right out easily. As others have stated, compress them WITH the old pads in there.
It was an easy project. Once the wheels where back on, I started the car and drove it about 2 miles. No issues what so ever. No lights came on or anything. Brakes feel the same...but without the squeak. After that, I drove it about 35 miles with no issues.
Thanks for all the advice anybody. I'd be happy to help out anyone with questions you might have.
I've only changed 3 sets of brakes before trying this on my Mercedes. After trying to fool around with the SBC for 5 minutes, I read where I could just leave it alone...and I did! I couldn't get it unhooked after pulling up on the clip.
That being said, if you want OEM pads like what I got, call Rob at MB of Westchester (OH). I'm in Atlanta and got referred to him. Two front pads and 2 sensors only cost me $86! He's hooked me up on other parts too in the past. Great guy. Tell him Nick from GA sent you.
The process was really easy...even by not having all the pictures. DEFINITELY GET BRAKE CLEANER. That made the process much easier. The longest part, besides getting the wheels off and putting back on, was getting the pins loose. That's where spraying really came into play.
I compressed the pistons carefully with large pliers, and from there, the pads will come right out easily. As others have stated, compress them WITH the old pads in there.
It was an easy project. Once the wheels where back on, I started the car and drove it about 2 miles. No issues what so ever. No lights came on or anything. Brakes feel the same...but without the squeak. After that, I drove it about 35 miles with no issues.
Thanks for all the advice anybody. I'd be happy to help out anyone with questions you might have.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
Hi Guys,
I've only changed 3 sets of brakes before trying this on my Mercedes. After trying to fool around with the SBC for 5 minutes, I read where I could just leave it alone...and I did! I couldn't get it unhooked after pulling up on the clip.
That being said, if you want OEM pads like what I got, call Rob at MB of Westchester (OH). I'm in Atlanta and got referred to him. Two front pads and 2 sensors only cost me $86! He's hooked me up on other parts too in the past. Great guy. Tell him Nick from GA sent you.
The process was really easy...even by not having all the pictures. DEFINITELY GET BRAKE CLEANER. That made the process much easier. The longest part, besides getting the wheels off and putting back on, was getting the pins loose. That's where spraying really came into play.
I compressed the pistons carefully with large pliers, and from there, the pads will come right out easily. As others have stated, compress them WITH the old pads in there.
It was an easy project. Once the wheels where back on, I started the car and drove it about 2 miles. No issues what so ever. No lights came on or anything. Brakes feel the same...but without the squeak. After that, I drove it about 35 miles with no issues.
Thanks for all the advice anybody. I'd be happy to help out anyone with questions you might have.
I've only changed 3 sets of brakes before trying this on my Mercedes. After trying to fool around with the SBC for 5 minutes, I read where I could just leave it alone...and I did! I couldn't get it unhooked after pulling up on the clip.
That being said, if you want OEM pads like what I got, call Rob at MB of Westchester (OH). I'm in Atlanta and got referred to him. Two front pads and 2 sensors only cost me $86! He's hooked me up on other parts too in the past. Great guy. Tell him Nick from GA sent you.
The process was really easy...even by not having all the pictures. DEFINITELY GET BRAKE CLEANER. That made the process much easier. The longest part, besides getting the wheels off and putting back on, was getting the pins loose. That's where spraying really came into play.
I compressed the pistons carefully with large pliers, and from there, the pads will come right out easily. As others have stated, compress them WITH the old pads in there.
It was an easy project. Once the wheels where back on, I started the car and drove it about 2 miles. No issues what so ever. No lights came on or anything. Brakes feel the same...but without the squeak. After that, I drove it about 35 miles with no issues.
Thanks for all the advice anybody. I'd be happy to help out anyone with questions you might have.
1) Once you pull the lock tab on the sbc plug to unplug it.
2) If you don't do 1 then follow the sbc disable using the w/o the startrek computer from the service manual
3) When compressing the old pads/piston crack open the bleed screw so the old fluid will be forced out of the caliber vs into the sbc braking system.
Congrats to your successful change.
