blueC230K

Guys,

I don't want to start another thread since it would be more appropriate to post in this one.

I have a 2005 E500 4 matic. I know the brakes are different on the 4 matic versus the RWD. I look at tirerack site and they post different numbers for the front brakes. I am looking at their ATE Original PremiumOne Pads. It has from chassis # X196565 and X196564. I have no idea which one to get.

I further look in ATE website and it say the same thing. Here is their listing:







Please let me know if you guys have any insights! Thanks in advance.

Jon

Iceman

Sorry, I do not even have the E500 anymore! Good to see that this thread is helping a lot of people out. It really is a simple job and not nearly as intimidating as the MB estimate makes it seem.

jayz89

is it just as easy to switch out the rear pads? I got posi quiet since they came out to 98 bucks... should they preform okay? im not switching out the rotors because they only have 30,000 miles on them... with the new pads is there something I need to put on them?

blueC230K

no one can help at all??

SuperCarver

Instead of disconnecting the harness on the SBC pump can you just disconnect the ground to it? I did that once to ground HID's and forgot to put the nut back on when i went in the car to test them out the FSS was all red, freaked me out. I then realized what i missed and everything was fine. My point is that if you get the same message on the FSS when disconnecting the harness why not just the ground and save someone risking damage to the harness or SBC connection?

dannieboiz

does anyone know how to replace the rotors as well? I remember last time when I replaced my pads I couldn't even get the rotors to wiggle a bit.

vettdvr

I have the RWD E500 but the rotors have a lock screw holding it to the flange. Remove the lock screw then you should be able to remove it. It may be rusted to the flange and need some assistance.

dannieboiz

Do you have a picture of where this screw is located at?

vettdvr

Yes compliments of someone else who helped me.

BoughtaBenz

I took the screw out and then heated it a bit with a propane torch around the hub. I kept the torch moving so that I wouldn't concentrate the heat in any one spot and also kept it awy from the spindle as to not heat up the grease. I doubt that this little torch would do that, but why take chances.

It just fell off, unlike the drivers side, which took a little persuasion from a bfh (Big Frickin Hammer......which really was only three pounds, but had a Napolean complex and thought that it was bigger than it really was.
It got the job done).

Good Luck and just don't give up. You'll be both proud of yourself and feel a sense of accomplishment when you're done................Not too mention the money saved!

vettdvr

That is the type of assistance I was talking about. Sometimes I use penetrating oil first around the lugs and he flange opening. IF that doesn't work

dannieboiz

man that's awesome. Thanks guys.

I'm picking my car up from the Stealer tomorrow for the warranty repair on my SBC and some recalls.

If your car is showing any signs of SBC problem bring it into the Stealer and get it replaced. The best thing you can do for yourself, don't be like me and wait until my SBC totally failed while cruising down the freeway at 80mph.

vettdvr

MY SBC failed while the wife was driving in heavy traffic. Fortunately she was able to drive off the side of the road. We had it towed in to the dealer.

BoughtaBenz

I figured that's what you meant!

If you're going to heat it though, I recommend NOT using the penetrating oil!

It could flash and start a fire!

007_e350

The stealer gave me an estimate for $750 (Rear Rotors, pads & b fluid flush) ... I'm gonna give it a shot myself

Could someone be kind enough to put together a tools list (I have no tools) please.

1. What ype of Jack is preferred (hydraulic 2 ton ? Where should the car be Jacked up from (for rear brakes) ?
2. Tool w/ Size to remove the Pins
3. Tool for Calipers clips
4. Tool to hold the brake fluid feed line (so when I push the piston, fluid doesnt go into sbc system)
5. Tool for Rotor release bolts (size)
6. I know Rubber Hammer, WD-40 is a must. Also, how would I put in the new Rotor, do I need to hammer it in or just bolting it in. What torque should I bolt upto

I know we need the Torx (what size?) & some greezed up Spring for speed sensing (Would I be touching that ?)


Thanks everyone

vettdvr

Front or Rear?

How do you know you need rotors,, caus the dealer says so?

Measure them first then confirm. If you don't have a warped rotor and it is within spec DON"T change them. I bought rotors for the front at 60,000 miles thinking I needed them because the dealer did the first change at 30,000. I measured the rotors at 60,000 and estimated I have at least 60,000 more miles left in the front rotors. So I never put the new ones on, I installed new pads and have driven 23,000 more miles and still don't need rotors. My estimate is rotors will last 100,000 miles. My guess is all you need is about $75 worth of pads and 1 or 2 $4.00 brake sensors so your total job is probably under $100.

takitoz71

k guys gonna try to do this myself this coming weekend on my 03 E320. im changing out rotors, pads, and sensors. ive been doing my research on this subject now for a while. i know i have to disconnect the sbc pump. is it as easy as it sounds? is there anything else i need to do? i just had my sbc pump replaced at the dealer at no cost. what else do i need? i have the pads, rotors and sensors. is there any other supplies i need for this job? i just want to clear my mind since this will be my first project on my car.

vettdvr

You didn't say F or R. If it is front you will need a punch about 1/8 " to punch out the pad pins. Caution,, MEASURE the rotors and compare to spec. You might not need new ones. I have the origional rotors on my E500 at 84,000 miles and they still have 50% of the thickness left before hitting the minimum wear limit in the MB manual. If yours aren't warped I would be suprised if they needed changing. IME the MB pads are a bit soft and save the rotors. I bought a set of rotors for my front at 60,000 miles and measured them first and they were good to go much longer.

takitoz71

i need rotors extremely soon on all four wheels the front limit is 1.024 and my front rotors are at .977, my rear limit is .386 and they are at .317!! i dont need to change my pads but going to anyways since they produce alot of brake dust. replacing with akebono and got the part number if anyway one needs to order the right ones. the rotors im replacing with slotted/drilled and of course the sensors.

takitoz71

anyone help? im doing all four tires.

vettdvr

PM me your email and I will send you what I have.

takitoz71

hey vett ur the bomb man, did my brakes on tuesday and came out with no problems, i appreciate your help and the e-mail u sent me. compared to the dealer and doing it myself saved myself hundreds of dollars!!!!!

vettdvr

I"m glad it worked out. You can do a lot on your MB it isn't that difficult. But you must do your prework first.



Work on the MB I have done.

Replaced fog light lense
Transmission service
sparkplugs
cabin filter
aux battery
brakes
oil/filter
fan belt
idle pulley replacement
flex disc inspection
lost socket in bottom dust pan

Noticed you were in Valdosta, My son was stationed there 3 years ago.

takitoz71

awesome well if i ever need to do something else to my benz ull be the first ones to hit u up. yeah been stationed there since 2004 and will be till 2013, just changed jobs from Security Forces (MP) to Aerial Gunner on helicopters!!!!!

platinumblue

takitoz71............

Congradulation on the successful brake job. I've been following this site on the brake replacement particularly as I have the SBC on my 04 e320. I've been a member since 2007. I'm requesting your specific input as you have the same brake unit set-up on your 04. Please PM me to discuss details to the job.