mere320

I purchased the car used. I believe the previous owner had the brake pads replaced but did not have the sensors replaced. He provided an invoice for the pad replacement from a non-benz workshop. When I checked the sensors two were bad (not 1 as I originally posted) yet the pads had plenty of wear left on them.

Thanks for the tips all, I'll check into these things and let you know. Any other thoughts are appreciated too!

mere320

Well, I didn't do anything new and the "Brake! vistit workshop light has not come on in the last 3 drives. If it comes back on I'll use your tips!

Taylor-Made'90

I love this thread. My brakes are squealing a lil, and I've ordered some Porterfield pads....

I'm printing the instructions, getting a pack of Red Stripe (yay beer!) and heading for the garage......

baf2000_1

After finishing I took the car out for a spin and the ABS , ESP and Brake service messages appeared and power steering boost was at 50%. I discovered one of the new sensors was bad. Replaced it and did all the re-initialize routines but the messages are still there. Would that cause this and is a visit to the dealer needed to clear the display?

vettdvr

If the sensor was bad and the brakes are and work ok,, drive it a while to give the computer time to reset and see if the alarm goes out.

baf2000_1

Nope that did not do it. Turns out that removing the rotor and hub has a gotcha. The seals are the magnetic source for the speed sensors. They have a small spring that is packed in grease inside them in the hub. If you put the hub on without resetting the spring in grease and they come loose then you are out the money for the dealer to do new $9.00 seals ( $500.00 labor). Ouch . Of course I read about this on another site this afternoon. But I am still ahead $400 parts( all 4 wheels ) + $500 gotcha still < original $1200.00 for the fronts alone . Cheers !

vettdvr

I didn't realize you pulled the bearings / seal out of the hub. You are right there is a seal with 4 magnets that trigger a pulse on rotation to the computer for many items. But not familiar with the spring? Did you get any pics?

baf2000_1

No pics but I bet this is common and if you do not know to repack the spring inside the seal you get all kinds of warnings. I hope the next guy will see this!

mere320

I read many other threads and did not see anything that answered this question. If there is a thread let me know.

One of the brake sensors (front left) is designed to go off first at about 50% of wear (from what I've read in these posts). Is it going to continually cause the "brake visit workshop" warning light to come on until I change the pads and sensor? Or is it designed to stop warning you after a certain amount of time AND THEN come on again when one of the other sensors is activated?

vettdvr

[QUOTE=mere320;3070791]One of the brake sensors (front left) is designed to go off first at about 50% of wear (from what I've read in these posts). Is it going to continually cause the "brake visit workshop" warning light to come on until I change the pads and sensor? QUOTE]

No.

The 50 % wear will only give you a + after the mileage for the next service in the FSS menu. When you wear to the second front sensor you should get a brake workshop warning.

mere320

Well, I'm still getting the "brake visit workshop" light even though the other sensors are fine. I think it's time to try the stop lamp switch.

Unless there is something else I should check first???

vettdvr

There are several things that can give the brake workshop.

The sensors for sure if worn down, the brake switch and I don't know all the others. Given you have the SBC system if your brake switch is not defective, your pads and sensors are good I would let the dealer check it out with his bizillion $$ computer that you don't have access to .

pfphipps

One additional note on the 50% wear sensor. It has been disabled on a lot of the 211s, including mine. I had noise in the radio and the explanation I got was that the frayed wires from this sensor would give radio noise. The dealer said it was a known problem and clipped the wire to the sensor. No more interference.

vettdvr

Are you sure you haven't worn down to the replace pad sensor?

pfphipps

That happened about 20,000 miles later!

jditom

2006 E320 CDI

Just replaced my front and rear pads with Axxis Delux pads. Dustless pads. Took about 2.5 hours taking my time. All of the posts were very helpful.

My car has floating calipers F/R. So the fronts you remove the holding bolts (13mm) and the rears have a spring clip and 2 torx bolts (40).

Got all the red warning lights when back together but after a few cycles of turning the car on and off and pumping brake pedal all is good.

I then bed-in the brakes using the procedure below.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

brsilves

How much do the procedures outlined in this thread change for a 2007 E550?
I do not believe my car has the SBC, correct? If so, is there anything that needs to be disconnected, or may I proceed "just like any car?"
Thanks in advance for the help.

vettdvr

From what I understand w/o owning a 07 the SBC is not on your car but you can determine this by looking at the mastercylinder/booster. If the booster is vacuum it is NOT SBC.

I would expect the actual brake rotor,pad,caliper to use the same procedure but I would never consider a MB "like any car" as there can always be a suprise. But IMO I found in most cases the MB much easier to make repairs compared to any car.

Nickc0844

I wanted to share the deal I got with you guys. I'm going to do this myself in the next week or two.

I called up Rob at MB of West Chester (513) 870.1030 and he hooked me up (as well as others on the forum). 2 front brake pads (OEM Mercedes) for $74 and the sensors for $6 each. Hard to beat that!

Taylor-Made'90

Guess what guys!!!!

Following Burkett's instructions, I changed my brake pads..... and it was so easy, so seamless, even the GEICO Caveman could do it!!!!!

You guys rock!!!!!

Barry45RPM

2007's do not have SBC.

vettdvr

Congrats.. Does this mean you are a Caveman now.

I was impressed with how easy it was vs. how much the dealer charged me to do it.

chickasaw2000

Hi Iceman,

do you have pictures to show how to disconnect the SBC?

Nickc0844

Hi Guys,

I've only changed 3 sets of brakes before trying this on my Mercedes. After trying to fool around with the SBC for 5 minutes, I read where I could just leave it alone...and I did! I couldn't get it unhooked after pulling up on the clip.

That being said, if you want OEM pads like what I got, call Rob at MB of Westchester (OH). I'm in Atlanta and got referred to him. Two front pads and 2 sensors only cost me $86! He's hooked me up on other parts too in the past. Great guy. Tell him Nick from GA sent you.

The process was really easy...even by not having all the pictures. DEFINITELY GET BRAKE CLEANER. That made the process much easier. The longest part, besides getting the wheels off and putting back on, was getting the pins loose. That's where spraying really came into play.

I compressed the pistons carefully with large pliers, and from there, the pads will come right out easily. As others have stated, compress them WITH the old pads in there.

It was an easy project. Once the wheels where back on, I started the car and drove it about 2 miles. No issues what so ever. No lights came on or anything. Brakes feel the same...but without the squeak. After that, I drove it about 35 miles with no issues.

Thanks for all the advice anybody. I'd be happy to help out anyone with questions you might have.

vettdvr

I highly suggest:

1) Once you pull the lock tab on the sbc plug to unplug it.
2) If you don't do 1 then follow the sbc disable using the w/o the startrek computer from the service manual
3) When compressing the old pads/piston crack open the bleed screw so the old fluid will be forced out of the caliber vs into the sbc braking system.

Congrats to your successful change.