Clear Bra Question
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2014 E63S Wagon, 2013 odyssey
Clear Bra Question
So I've had my car since the 19th and managed to get at least two rock chips . Which got me looking into clear bra's. I've done some research and it appears 3M makes a good product as well as something called nano-fusion.
I've had some people I know complain that the 3M stuff will yellow over time but I haven't seen that. Others swear by the nano-fusion product, but I've never seen it in person. What have you guys seen? I know a lot of how good it looks can depend on the installer, so that aside anyone have any good/bad information about either product? Or is there something else I should look into? Also I've not gotten any quotes yet, so if you know installers in the MD/VA area let me know.
If it matters my E is the steel gray color.
Edward
I've had some people I know complain that the 3M stuff will yellow over time but I haven't seen that. Others swear by the nano-fusion product, but I've never seen it in person. What have you guys seen? I know a lot of how good it looks can depend on the installer, so that aside anyone have any good/bad information about either product? Or is there something else I should look into? Also I've not gotten any quotes yet, so if you know installers in the MD/VA area let me know.
If it matters my E is the steel gray color.
Edward
Last edited by afaedC63; 12-01-2011 at 02:39 PM.
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
So I've had my car since the 19th and managed to get at least two rock chips . Which got me looking into clear bra's. I've done some research and it appears 3M makes a good product as well as something called nano-fusion.
I've had some people I know complain that the 3M stuff will yellow over time but I haven't seen that. Others swear by the nano-fusion product, but I've never seen it in person. What have you guys seen? I know a lot of how good it looks can depend on the installer, so that aside anyone have any good/bad information about either product? Or is there something else I should look into? Also I've not gotten any quotes yet, so if you know installers in the MD/VA area let me know.
If it matters my E is the steel gray color.
Edward
I've had some people I know complain that the 3M stuff will yellow over time but I haven't seen that. Others swear by the nano-fusion product, but I've never seen it in person. What have you guys seen? I know a lot of how good it looks can depend on the installer, so that aside anyone have any good/bad information about either product? Or is there something else I should look into? Also I've not gotten any quotes yet, so if you know installers in the MD/VA area let me know.
If it matters my E is the steel gray color.
Edward
I have an outstanding installer. PM me if you want his info.
Don't forget to do the mirror caps, the areas behind the wheel wells and a strip on top of the rear bumper by the trunk opening. If you don't have the door handle inserts then you'll want to do that area as well as fingernails will scratch that area up quickly.
Last edited by CEB; 12-01-2011 at 02:58 PM.
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2012 CLS63
been thinking of getting one for my wife
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2010 E350 Luxury Sedan, Engine 272 (V6)
Couple of years ago I looked at a two year old, red Lexus. Real pretty, good color and paint. Had a clear bra on front half of hood. From 10+ feet away I could see the line on the hood where it ended. Actually except for line, probably would not have known it was there. For me personally, I just didn't like the line being so obvious.
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1969 280S, 1991 300E
The quality of the kit that is installed is just as important as who the installer is. A company called X-Pel creates the best kits on the planet.
I was told earlier this week that 3M has a new film that makes the "line" difficult to see, and is made specifically for german cars in mind.
I guess you have a decision to make...do you mind having a line go across your hood, or would you rather have a bunch of stonechips on it? Which one looks worse?
On my E55, i got the "bikini cut" on the hood, so it kind of swoops down in the middle. This looks better than going straight across on some vehicles. I also had the rockers completely covered, door cups, door edges, luggage area, etc.
This is the best thing you can do to protect your paint. If you don't want it on your hood becuase of the line, skip that piece. IMO, the bumper is the most important piece to do.
Make sure you see the work of the guy who is installing it before you go out and spend $1000...i've seen some really bad work...I actually saw a car where the installer cut the kit right on the car as he was installing it and cut the paint all over the place...not cool!
I was told earlier this week that 3M has a new film that makes the "line" difficult to see, and is made specifically for german cars in mind.
I guess you have a decision to make...do you mind having a line go across your hood, or would you rather have a bunch of stonechips on it? Which one looks worse?
On my E55, i got the "bikini cut" on the hood, so it kind of swoops down in the middle. This looks better than going straight across on some vehicles. I also had the rockers completely covered, door cups, door edges, luggage area, etc.
This is the best thing you can do to protect your paint. If you don't want it on your hood becuase of the line, skip that piece. IMO, the bumper is the most important piece to do.
Make sure you see the work of the guy who is installing it before you go out and spend $1000...i've seen some really bad work...I actually saw a car where the installer cut the kit right on the car as he was installing it and cut the paint all over the place...not cool!
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2014 E63S Wagon, 2013 odyssey
I have an outstanding installer. PM me if you want his info.
Don't forget to do the mirror caps, the areas behind the wheel wells and a strip on top of the rear bumper by the trunk opening. If you don't have the door handle inserts then you'll want to do that area as well as fingernails will scratch that area up quickly.
Don't forget to do the mirror caps, the areas behind the wheel wells and a strip on top of the rear bumper by the trunk opening. If you don't have the door handle inserts then you'll want to do that area as well as fingernails will scratch that area up quickly.
On my E55, i got the "bikini cut" on the hood, so it kind of swoops down in the middle. This looks better than going straight across on some vehicles. I also had the rockers completely covered, door cups, door edges, luggage area, etc.
This is the best thing you can do to protect your paint. If you don't want it on your hood becuase of the line, skip that piece. IMO, the bumper is the most important piece to do.
Make sure you see the work of the guy who is installing it before you go out and spend $1000...i've seen some really bad work...I actually saw a car where the installer cut the kit right on the car as he was installing it and cut the paint all over the place...not cool!
This is the best thing you can do to protect your paint. If you don't want it on your hood becuase of the line, skip that piece. IMO, the bumper is the most important piece to do.
Make sure you see the work of the guy who is installing it before you go out and spend $1000...i've seen some really bad work...I actually saw a car where the installer cut the kit right on the car as he was installing it and cut the paint all over the place...not cool!
Looks like I need to check out 3M, X-Pel and nano-fusion.
Edward
#12
I have been using clear bra on my cars for years, and I am a believer.
The most important thing I have learned -- Buy the installer, not the film.
Give the best film to a poor installer, he/she can do a poor job or even ruin our car/paint. A good and reputable installer does magic, and he/she will recommend us what is the best film coverage to protect our car/paint per our need/budget (nowadays most good installers can do full hood film coverage, or even wrap the whole car in film if requested.)
I didn't put clear bra on my Mercedes (my wife drives them most, and she doesn't care much about rockchips), yet here are some pictures of my other car had the clear bra being done by a very reputable local installer (Premier Mobile Group (http://premiermobilegroup.com) They are one of the best in the market, very nice guys, and can answer our questions or recommend other installers in other states.
With best regards,
The most important thing I have learned -- Buy the installer, not the film.
Give the best film to a poor installer, he/she can do a poor job or even ruin our car/paint. A good and reputable installer does magic, and he/she will recommend us what is the best film coverage to protect our car/paint per our need/budget (nowadays most good installers can do full hood film coverage, or even wrap the whole car in film if requested.)
I didn't put clear bra on my Mercedes (my wife drives them most, and she doesn't care much about rockchips), yet here are some pictures of my other car had the clear bra being done by a very reputable local installer (Premier Mobile Group (http://premiermobilegroup.com) They are one of the best in the market, very nice guys, and can answer our questions or recommend other installers in other states.
With best regards,
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Porsche Macan S SportDesign / Ex M-B's: 11 & 10 & 06 E350's, 02 S500
My experiences with observing Clear Bra's render them a no-deal to me.
To me, they kind of "muddle" the sharpness and popping-factor of a car. You can not only see the line, which drives me crazy, but it also distorts the color, even if a little bit. As they inevitably yellow, they'll distort the color more. As someone who loves to closely look at and analyze the lines of my car, I just know I wouldn't be happy with a Bra. However, many swear by it, so it obviously works for them. I personally have taken the approach of "hope for the best", and if anything happens with pits, I prefer to use Touch-Up Paint, which is far less noticeable still than a Clear Bra, IMO.
To me, they kind of "muddle" the sharpness and popping-factor of a car. You can not only see the line, which drives me crazy, but it also distorts the color, even if a little bit. As they inevitably yellow, they'll distort the color more. As someone who loves to closely look at and analyze the lines of my car, I just know I wouldn't be happy with a Bra. However, many swear by it, so it obviously works for them. I personally have taken the approach of "hope for the best", and if anything happens with pits, I prefer to use Touch-Up Paint, which is far less noticeable still than a Clear Bra, IMO.
#14
I install paint protection film for a living and test all the new films out. I havent seen 3Ms new film... and do not like any of their older films. The Avery Nano Fusion film is excelent. It is prefectly smooth, perfectly clear, will not stain, and will not yellow over time. To me it is the top film out on the market right now... and it is backed with the only full lifetime warranty (labor and material is covered). Could be why it is very hard to get as it is sold out as soon as it is produced. Ventureshield Ultra is also a great film... been using it for 8 years and never had any yellowing issues. Xpel has a new film out I havent tested yet but I hear it is really good, called Xpel Ultimate.
By the way most of the yellowing issues are from the prodcuts the people apply to the film. Anything petroleum based will cause the film to yellow over time simply because the wax itself turns yellow. using a good sealant or carnuba wax will prevent any yellowing from occuring (with the above films mentioned). And if you dont like having a hood line you can always get the full hood and full fenders wrapped.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
By the way most of the yellowing issues are from the prodcuts the people apply to the film. Anything petroleum based will cause the film to yellow over time simply because the wax itself turns yellow. using a good sealant or carnuba wax will prevent any yellowing from occuring (with the above films mentioned). And if you dont like having a hood line you can always get the full hood and full fenders wrapped.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
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Porsche Macan S SportDesign / Ex M-B's: 11 & 10 & 06 E350's, 02 S500
I wonder what product M-B uses at the front of the rear wheel wells of the CLS?
That's actually a good example of how clear wraps can age (at least some of them). Especially Used CLS's can look terrible back in that area with those things and their slit line sticking out like sore thumbs.
That's actually a good example of how clear wraps can age (at least some of them). Especially Used CLS's can look terrible back in that area with those things and their slit line sticking out like sore thumbs.
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2014 E63S Wagon, 2013 odyssey
Thanks for all the inputs. I've reached out to a couple different installers to get pictures, prices, etc so I will have a good picture of what i will be getting. I'll let you guys know what I decide.
Edward
Edward
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
I wonder what product M-B uses at the front of the rear wheel wells of the CLS?
That's actually a good example of how clear wraps can age (at least some of them). Especially Used CLS's can look terrible back in that area with those things and their slit line sticking out like sore thumbs.
That's actually a good example of how clear wraps can age (at least some of them). Especially Used CLS's can look terrible back in that area with those things and their slit line sticking out like sore thumbs.