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You can also get brake shudder from the anti-locking brake system, which has a fault. The hydraulics can also cause the problem.
Further brakes problems are never exactly the same on each corner, if all the rotors and pads have been replaced consistently across all four corners, then you have a system failure and not an individual brake failure.
Again having replaced the pads and rotors overtime there is little chance you have the same manufacturing issue with the rotors.
Again the same applies to pads...............
Very few people understand the electronic braking systems, and always seem to stay with the easiest........to diagnose, but not necessarily the problem.
If you fault is consistent ie every time you change the pads at the same depth usage, then when you replace the pads you force each brake piston back to its original position................as the pads wear the piston travel changes......
I have a 2014 e550. my front rotors, and brakes have just been replaced at 8000
Wow. 2014 models still have this problem? That's disappointing. I have a 2012 E550 and have had a shimmy in the steering wheel while braking for the past couple of years. I also have a slight shimmy in the steering wheel at times while driving (not braking). I know that usually means a tire balancing issue, but I've had the tires balanced and replaced several months ago with a completely new set of tires and the shimmy is still there, so I know it's not a balancing issue. Maybe one of my wheels is bent? I don't know.
It seems to be temperature related because the shimmy in the steering wheel gets worse during the summer months when the brakes/rotors build up heat. I took the car to the dealer about 2 years ago when I first noticed the problem. At first they said it was normal, but when I complained and mentioned the TSB they replaced the front pads and rotors as a "goodwill gesture."
The shimmy gets real bad under SLIGHT brake pedal pressure and goes away when I increase brake pedal pressure. I've just learned to live with it. My car has almost 48,000 miles now and my warranty is going to expire soon. I think the issue is with the cross-drilled front rotors, but that still wouldn't explain why I experience a slight shimmy while driving sometimes (not just under braking). I've thought about trading it for a new car, but my car has everything I could want (except for the harsh ride).
Wow. 2014 models still have this problem? That's disappointing. I have a 2012 E550 and have had a shimmy in the steering wheel while braking for the past couple of years. I also have a slight shimmy in the steering wheel at times while driving (not braking). I know that usually means a tire balancing issue, but I've had the tires balanced and replaced several months ago with a completely new set of tires and the shimmy is still there, so I know it's not a balancing issue. Maybe one of my wheels is bent? I don't know.
It seems to be temperature related because the shimmy in the steering wheel gets worse during the summer months when the brakes/rotors build up heat. I took the car to the dealer about 2 years ago when I first noticed the problem. At first they said it was normal, but when I complained and mentioned the TSB they replaced the front pads and rotors as a "goodwill gesture."
The shimmy gets real bad under SLIGHT brake pedal pressure and goes away when I increase brake pedal pressure. I've just learned to live with it. My car has almost 48,000 miles now and my warranty is going to expire soon. I think the issue is with the cross-drilled front rotors, but that still wouldn't explain why I experience a slight shimmy while driving sometimes (not just under braking). I've thought about trading it for a new car, but my car has everything I could want (except for the harsh ride).
Shimmy while driving most likely is either a bent rim or if you have after market rims they are not properly centered when mounted.
My wife started noticing the brake juddering again on our '11 550 at around 55,000 miles. We had this issue back around the 23,000 mile mark as well. Like jumpman said, ours tends to be more prominent under light braking and sometimes it occurs under light acceleration as well. I assume that is the pad sticking that others have been talking about.
Racingbrake has a fix to your brake vibration issues.
Our light weight two piece replacement rotors not only can reduce your bulky and heavy non-performing OE rotors by 7 lbs per rotors to improve your handling, but will rid of these brake trouble permanently and end your visits to dealers.
These are 340mm rotors, and if you are doing more aggressive street driving and want to stop your E550 on the dime you may consider our complete upgrade package to 360mm rotors with 6 pot calipers this will bring your E550 to have the same brake as E63 like this one here for E350.
2015 E63 - Current, 2012 E550 - Current, 2019 Audi Q7 3.0T - current
I just had this issue as well. I bought the car in december and I noticed it after a few weeks, but wasn't sure what I was feeling. I was thinking it was the cross drilled rotors but wasn't 100% sure until I took the car on a road trip and was doing a lot of highway driving when I confirmed that the rotors were warped. I just got the car back today with new brakes and rotors all under cpo warranty. Hopefully, this does not happen again but if it does i'm going to just swap out to aftermarket rotors...
Same issue for my '13 e550 which I took to the dealer today for that issue, moonroof issues and some silver "foil" trim that is peeling. I bought the car CPO 9-15 with 29k miles. Was told new front brakes when I purchased her- not sure about rotors.
Got a VM from service advisor stating that my brake issue wasn't covered under warranty (he didn't specify what the diagnosis is)... Will see how this turns out.
2015 E63 - Current, 2012 E550 - Current, 2019 Audi Q7 3.0T - current
So I got the car back and not even a week later I get the same noises again after the car has been driven for a while. It's almost like when the brakes heat up they start to squeak really badly and then make the metal to metal noise right before the car stops. The brake pads are brand new and supposedly so are the rotors but damn I know it's not supposed to sound like this. I haven't been able to take it back to the dealer yet, but is anyone else seeing this??
Same issue for my '13 e550 which I took to the dealer today for that issue, moonroof issues and some silver "foil" trim that is peeling. I bought the car CPO 9-15 with 29k miles. Was told new front brakes when I purchased her- not sure about rotors.
Got a VM from service advisor stating that my brake issue wasn't covered under warranty (he didn't specify what the diagnosis is)... Will see how this turns out.
What the resolution to this? Hope it worked out in your favor
What the resolution to this? Hope it worked out in your favor
Posted on a separate thread:
I just picked GG up from Mercedes Benz of El Cajon (CA)- they completed the following and I walked away paying nothing. Thanks to my SA, Michael Cain for following up on brakes a bit more throughly.
1. Replaced both front pads and rotors (with sensors, nuts and bolts- oh, and "brake paste".
2. Replaced both front rod bushings
3. Reportedly found no issue with moonroof. But they reset/retaught the computer what to do.
4. Replaced steering wheel trim (it was peeling a wee bit).
As per my original post, I was initially told my front rotors were warped and pads were fine so MB wanted to consider this normal wear and tear. I questioned my SA and explained that brakes were replaced prior to my purchase (but I still don't know if it was just brake pads or rotors as well-my bad, just glad this problem is fixed- fingers crossed). I asked how he got this covered and he said the pads were new "time of purchase, 7k miles ago. And rotors were still under performance warranty (? Term).
Will see how they performs in the weeks/months/years. Come on, I can be hopeful!
Overall happy with this. I originally went in for all items listed above except #4. This is e of the reasons I like CPO. Although I guess it's still under factory warranty(?).
I have a 2010 E550 4matic. Same issue with brake shimmy as on this thread. Purchased CPO in 2012. First occurrence after 12K miles, dealer replaced pads and rotors at my cost (discounted to $625 because I complained). Repair lasted 4 months (about 3K more miles), dealer replaced front pads and rotors under warranty from the first replacement. 8 more months and problem re-occurred. Dealer tried to say that the issue could be in the rear brakes. I told them what I've read on these fora and elsewhere about the issues with W212 brake systems on heavier models. They kept the car and said they would go to MB for instructions. First called back and said they tried the rear brake replacement and it had no effect. Then called back to comp a new set of front rotors/pads. I asked what MB had replied and whether there were upgrades e.g. to the AMG system which appears to have no issues. They said they got no reply from MB but I should be happy with the comp repair.
I'd be happy except that I'm expecting the same thing again in 6 months. The replacement definitely fixes the problem each time, it just doesn't hold up.
Same thing with my 2010 E550. Shaking in the steering wheel when braking. It's more aggressive when braking lightly and almost goes away when hard braking. I brought it in and mentioned the shaking because it almost felt like it was getting worse. Ended up replacing tires/rotors/pads. Had an alignment done at Mercedes dealership. Also needed engine mounts as they were collapsed and they mentioned them the last time I had it in for service.
Now the shaking has started again after about 6500 miles, Also can feel the wheel shake at highway speeds when not braking very slightly. I have distronic plus and its impossible to use it when the car drives like this because the steering wheel looks like a tee-totter.
I need to find some good aftermarket rotors and start from there. Everything else about the car is amazing but when it drives like this constantly I just want to sell it..
didnt want to start another thread , so ill just ask here , i will have to change my rear pads soon , but i dont know if i should change rotors as well , or if i could get new pads with these rotors and not experience any vibration? or its a matter of how thick the rotor is? thanks
edit. never changed rear pads nor rotors yet , and im at 94k mls. just wanna see what are the options.
didnt want to start another thread , so ill just ask here , i will have to change my rear pads soon , but i dont know if i should change rotors as well , or if i could get new pads with these rotors and not experience any vibration? or its a matter of how thick the rotor is? thanks
edit. never changed rear pads nor rotors yet , and im at 94k mls. just wanna see what are the options.
With that many miles just count your blessings and get new brakes and rotors.
I'm now on my 3rd set of rotors. Pads are still brand new. First time I used OEM mercedes for the rotors/pads. This time I purchased some rotors off amazon that are not OEM but same size/fitment. They feel much heavier than the two original sets I have.
I had steering wheel wobble when braking and I could feel it pulsate in the pedal. The harder I pushed it sometimes caused the shaking to go away for a short time but It came back with a vengance every time. I had about 10,000 miles on the set I just took off. The first set was already warped when I bought the car.
what was the brand you picked up -
Im looking at 3 brands - too for the same issue...
Brembo - Cross drilled - from Autozone for about $160 for the pair - Plus shipping
R1 Concepts - Geo Rotor high carbon rotor for about 225 per pair + ceramic pads - Shipped
And then Some Duralo High carbons too for about $115 pair - Shipped (just cuz they are CHEAP)
(and yes I have gone through my 3rd set of OEM MB rotors - I get about 5K miles before I need to turn them and restart all over again)
You have two options, replace with in-expensive one piece rotors and keep replacing them as needed.
Or replace with RB light weight true high performance two piece rotors for more than just to eliminate warping & vibration, but substantially increase the performance due to lighter weight. In the long run it's actually cheaper than 1 pc because these two piece rotors can last 3 times longer than 1 pc. http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ONT-p/2255.htm
Guarantee result or your money back.
Last edited by RacingBrake; Nov 21, 2017 at 08:14 PM.
what was the brand you picked up -
Im looking at 3 brands - too for the same issue...
Brembo - Cross drilled - from Autozone for about $160 for the pair - Plus shipping
R1 Concepts - Geo Rotor high carbon rotor for about 225 per pair + ceramic pads - Shipped
And then Some Duralo High carbons too for about $115 pair - Shipped (just cuz they are CHEAP)
(and yes I have gone through my 3rd set of OEM MB rotors - I get about 5K miles before I need to turn them and restart all over again)
what was the brand you picked up -
Im looking at 3 brands - too for the same issue...
Brembo - Cross drilled - from Autozone for about $160 for the pair - Plus shipping
R1 Concepts - Geo Rotor high carbon rotor for about 225 per pair + ceramic pads - Shipped
And then Some Duralo High carbons too for about $115 pair - Shipped (just cuz they are CHEAP)
(and yes I have gone through my 3rd set of OEM MB rotors - I get about 5K miles before I need to turn them and restart all over again)
Anyone have any advice on these?
Thanks all
I replaced mine with the Brembos from autozone just a few weeks ago and they are working very well so far ( I've put around 600 mls on them) . No more brake judder! I paid almost 310 $ for two rotors and pads for them (Brembo as well).
There was a 20% off coupon that made them $163 for the pair...
If this does not work - Im MIGHT drop the 800 smackers but that seems a lot for rotors..even if they are amazing? hummm
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for two rotors and pads for them (Brembo as well).
