I have a 2011 E350 Bluetec and sometimes it wont start. Sometimes I have to turn the key all the way back off and then try to start again. Sometimes I have to repeat this a couple of times before it starts. Does anyone else experience an intermittent start problem?

I found this but I dont know if it applies to my car or not. What is an EIS?

LI80.57-P-051521 – 207 no crank/start/intermittent no crank, if EIS is part # 2045455732 replace with 2045458132.

 

I had an E350 Bluetec and never experience a starting issue. No issues with my S350 Bluetec either. I would have the dealer check it out.

 

How is the battery in your fob?

 

Yes, very rarely, and it always works on the first complete recycle of the key. EIS is the module you plug the key into....Electronic Ignition System? It hasn't happened lately and I <think> it only happened when I real quickly flicked the key to the start position so I do it slower and more deliberately now. EIS is expensive and requires special coding to work.

 

Its a brand new key fob. It also does it with the older key fob too. So I dont think its the battery.

 

Well, the car is under warranty so I'm not worried about cost. I'll try to go slower with the key when I start it and see if it still happens.

 

That's why I mentioned it. Don't wait if it continues.

 

I have a similar problem. It only fails to start once a month or so. No crank, no clicks, just silence. After browsing the internet, I believe the first, and least expensive thing to replace is the brake light switch. It not only turns your brake lights on, it allows the Drive Authorization System (DAS) to start the car when your foot is on the brake. If this $20 switch causes the problem, I'll be a happy camper after the replacement.

 

Kenny:
Sometimes there is no choice... but why do you want to replace a light switch you can test in no time ? Fat chance it is still perfectly good.

Rule#1... OEM parts are good until proven bad!
👍

Take a good look at searches for keywords ESL then EIS...

In prelift cars the "Electronic Steering Lock" works frequently and a $5 gear-drive wears out. Many tutorials to fix that greasy box.

In W212 the EIS module features "solderless pins" that works well until oxidation begins to wreck distribution of power and signals. Lose pins can be soldered in 5mn 🤪

When you get stuck, try taping gently around your steering column mid section.


Transmission gear selector is also involved in no cranks.

Keyfob battery issues are bypassed by inserting the key in the EIS
Consider buying yourself an iCarsoft scanner on Amazon, a lot of people find it really useful to get the pulse on their Benz computers.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks very much for your ideas. I will look into them!

 

Mine does the same thing. Only when is cold out.

 

I'm beginning to think that my issue may just be that the main battery is discharged too much. I read somewhere that even a partially discharged battery may cause the drive authorization system not to function. I haven't driven the car much at all lately, so the battery could be discharged too much.. I learned on line how to check my battery's voltage with a cheap millimeter. Mine read 11.5. It should be over 12.0. I may have underestimated the significance of that difference. I put a trickle charger on the battery overnight and now it reads 12.25. The car started right up. I'll test the starting over the next week or two and see if it continues to start every time.
When 1965 Beto said he had the problem only when cold out, it got me thinking about that battery again.
The postings on the ESL and EIS are not encouraging. Hopefully I can avoid those problems for now.

 

How many days does it take to drain your main battery to this no-start condition? Consider replacing your main battery.

Diagnose the car to check that no computer is keeping the system awake with a fast drain.

You may want to disconnect your batteries to prevent ruining them -or connect a battery tender to stand ready.

 

Just wondering if you ever had any more problems with your car not starting. Lately my 2012 E350 has developed the same intermittent problem and just trying to self-diagnose.

 

It turns out that the car needed a new battery. My mechanic recommended an original Mercedes battery. After it was installed, no more intermittent starting problems. Also, I don’t drive it much and the battery can run down due to the significant draw on the battery, even when it’s off. Therefore, I keep it on a trickle charger that keeps it charged. Less than $10 from NAPA or Harbor Freight. No problems with starting for over a year now.