For a cheaper fix, get it repaired. My understanding is no coding is required and is plug and play after repair (you may have to clear codes) For new unit you will need coding and for used unit it will require first to virginize it and the then do SCN coding. Here is link to a repair service. Ask question, before you send your unit. Best of luck and keep us posted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154633686868

 

Very interesting...so I just want to make sure I have the process correct. In my case, since my car is currently sitting at the repair shop, I would have them remove the faulty ISM. Then I would pack it up and send it to this service on eBay, where they will be able to repair it...assuming that its repairable? And if it is NOT repairable, I can then buy a new one from them and they can flash it to my vehicle and I can have the shop put it back on?

 

Contact them thru eBay for first hand information. Here is another vendor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/37437692421...3ABFBMmNivjcdh

 

I just went ahead and ordered a new ISM today. It’s kinda weird though. Everybody says, and everything I read says, that it’s a theft resistant part so you can’t just buy it…however my local dealer had no issues selling me one and explicitly telling me that a third party shop can install it. It’ll be here on Saturday so I will keep everyone updated.

 

OK, so I’ve got an update on my ISM drama. It’s been quite frustrating…still don’t have my car back yet, 2 weeks later.

I was able to successfully obtain the new replacement ISM directly from my local San Antonio Merc Dealership. So far, so good. I took the part to the shop that had my car and they installed it the next day. This is where the fun begins. They realized that they could not successfully code the new ISM to my car. The shop happens to have a partner who does programming that they can’t handle, as the shop my car is at has an AutoLogic system, which apparently cannot code ISMs.

I get my car towed to this new shop and they begin the process to code the new ISM to the car. “Houston - we have a problem” - apparently whatever system they use does not have the correct data file for my car to code it, so they have to download the correct file from a remote server (does anybody know what kinda system this could be?). This was on Friday. Well today they tell me they got the file, but they’re saying Mercedes gave me the wrong ISM. They’re saying it should have been a 722.7 model and not the 722.9 that they gave me. This is not correct as 722.9 IS in fact the correct part. It’s been such a ridiculous back and forth. I should have just got it all done at the dealership to begin with instead of trying to save a few hundred bucks. Does anybody here have any insight into what I should do next? Possibly what system these guys are using? How to get the ISM to pair with my car? I’m at my wits end here. I just want my AMG back!

 

150k on my 550. besides normal maintaince (belt, pulley, plugs, coils, fluids etc) the only other stuff that failed is the radiator, front driveshaft and some of the coolant lines for the turbos.

 

My E350 CDI is on 176k miles... hoping to keep it for a while as long as the subframe doesn't turn into dust...

Just changed all the front control/suspension arms, but not the strut and spring, had a remap, lots of maintenance.

 

Don't know what year your car is, but you've got 20 years from the in service date of coverage in case the subframe develops rust holes. New warranty just in effect in the US. Supposed to get a letter soon, but I haven't gotten mine yet.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8719245

 

Unfortunately that doesn't apply to the UK where I live, it's a case by case issue here. You can complain to the dealer and some will do it, some won't...

 

New Vinyl is cheap!
I have had Leather seating in my previous 2 E wagons (‘94 E124 & ‘01 E210). With conditioning & cleaning annually, those 2 sets of leather seats stayed as new, & were major selling points for new buyers.
And, my ‘91 300CE had excellent Java-colored leather; again with proper cleaning & conditioning over 12 years, the leather was near showroom condition.

Now, as of 2020, I’ve downsized to an ‘pre-owned, MB dealer bought ‘11 EWagon which, unfortunately, has the cheap vinyl (which is inferior to the earlier “MB Tex” qualities of the ‘90’s & early 2000’s).
I had to have the driver seat bottom replaced because of the all too common W212 seam splitting; I ordered OEM piece at best local upholstery shop at a cost of $400 installed. On top of the repaired seat, I placed a set of custom Ultimate Sheepskins on both front seats. That was an additional $600.
if you can, just avoid MBTEX.

 

I got a 2012 e550 4matic with 142k miles.

 

To the question about high mileage 212’s;
My 2011 E Wagon was bought at Bay Area MB Dealer in Santa Rosa in 2020 @ 102K original owner miles. For me, that was high mileage in a pre-owned, & in 27 months of ownership, this EWagon is at 120,700 miles.
SHOCKS:
I replaced the shocks at purchase, although both my Independent Benz Shop Manager & Local MB Dealer Service Rep said it wasn’t necessary, but they were BOTH wrong, as the difference was night & day with the ride & handling much improved.
FADED WOOD
The faded wood trim was quite evident at purchase @ 102K. I couldn’t live with that, after the perfect wood of my 124E Wagon of ‘94 & ‘91 300CE & ‘01 E210 Wagon.
Only the 212 had shabby,wood which I researched & discovered here at MBWorld that thr factory folks FORGOT to add Sunscreen to the Varnish, resulting in unsightly faded wood!

NEW MB COVERAGE OF FADED WOOD
MB is now legally bound to pay for wood trim replacement on 212’s, as is becoming common knowledge in legal settlement while not accepting
blame for this irritating situation. It’s a pro-rated situation which you can review by searching “faded wood trim legal case against MB.”

 

I see a lot of people in the “high mileage” thread with 80-120k on their cars… I feel like the senior here, my ‘14 E350 is at 206k. I bought it at 186k in 08/21, and have since added 20k miles. 20k miles in 6mo is pretty hefty but I have a 100mi round trip 5 days a week.

so far not really any issues except for a faulty alternator voltage regulator, which just recently reared it’s head and which I’ll be replacing in a week or so when the part arrives.

 

Wife’s ride at 92k, no issues soo far except a ripped seat bottom in the front seats.

 

You're right about new mb-tex. I have a 84 300SD that still looks new, but my 07 W211 with MB tex had the driver seat rip by 2013.

 

I'm honestly shocked that my seats haven't ripped, I have the MB Tex but I have not a single tear in my seats, again at the aforementioned 206k miles. In fact the interior and exterior of the car are utterly spotless, honestly, except for a fair amount of curb-rashing on the wheels courtesy of the lady who owned it before me, some faded walnut wood trim, and a little tiny spot of wear on the center console from someone's pointy elbow and the sunlight along the way.

 

My seat had a very very minor rip, then I had to tow my car and it became huge! The fat f*ck of a tow driver sat in my car to move it, and completely just bust the seam. I think the shop I took it to (Zimmerman automotive in Gaithersburg MD), took a screwdriver or something to my seat as well because it just looked that bad when I got my car back. I can testify to that under penalty of perjury. I really wish I had taken a photo, but because of the minor tear for so long, I wasn't expecting anything drastic, and I just wanted my car fixed.

 

Adding to old thread:
2011 bluetec at 158k miles. original owner. Oil cooler, main seal Leaks covered by warranty. Brake at 100k, mounts. Suspension replaced at 120k after many heavy loads, and many airborne glide on freeway hump. Driver seat ripped , very easy to replace the bottom cover. Diesel recall fix done at 135k, and one exhaust differential pressure sensor. Oil housing and belt/pulley at 145k. Still drive close to new. A great long distance cruiser.

 

The truth is yeah after dumping piles. Of $$$$$ for upkeep and repairs. I personal find my 2016 E350 Sport a piece of ****.

 

I have 142k miles on my 2014 E350 RWD M276 NAspirated model.

 

Since my previous replies 5 years ago, I am on my 2nd W212 I4 Bluetec.
Sold the 1st one with about 180k and this one is closing on 160k.
When I drive it only about 6000 miles a year, I did almost nothing in 5 years of ownership.
Out of boredom replaced Motor Mounts and sway bar links last year.
Both Bluetecs brought me $3600 checks (each) for participating in AEM aka Bluetec settlement.

 

my 2016 e350 sedan has been trouble free. 129k miles.

 

Wife’s ‘14 E350 has 146k miles.

The car still looks and drives like new.

Other than normal wear items (lubricants, filters, plugs, brakes, shocks/struts), the only failures have been 5 ignition coils and a rear subframe bushing (fluid-filled, started leaking).

 

E350 2014
400 l km