Batter not charging Alternator fine
Had a siren inside the car not outside go off for about 6 minutes before it quit. A burnt smell from the 2 vents under command and now battery does not charge




In regards to the smell, if your battery is under the hood near the air intake (like my 2011) then I could see a smell issue if the battery got overheated. But if you battery is in the trunk like early/mid 2010's, then I don't see the connection to the smell.
I have heard that there is a sealed 150 amp fuse between them but cannot fine a diagram of the battery charging system for this car




When you say no alternator output back to the terminals at the battery, what do you mean? Alternator output on the W212 is notoriously low for battery recharging and often only shows 12.5-6 volts at the battery when the car is running.
When you say no alternator output back to the terminals at the battery, what do you mean? Alternator output on the W212 is notoriously low for battery recharging and often only shows 12.5-6 volts at the battery when the car is running.




-standart where alternator pumps constant voltage
-regenerative charging, aka blue efficiency , where alternator charges depends on driving situation. It suppose to be smart charging, but driving with voltage displayed I'd question its intelligence.
Don't think 2010 come with regenerative charging, but good to confirm what system you have since troubleshooting goes in different directions.
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-standart where alternator pumps constant voltage
-regenerative charging, aka blue efficiency , where alternator charges depends on driving situation. It suppose to be smart charging, but driving with voltage displayed I'd question its intelligence.
Don't think 2010 come with regenerative charging, but good to confirm what system you have since troubleshooting goes in different directions.




I would start troubleshooting from scratches:
-display car voltage on the cluster and note it
-turn all the headlights, blower and rear defroster on and then note the voltage change
-start the engine and note voltage change.
-rev the engine and note if the charging voltage changes.
That applies to older charging system.








I would start troubleshooting from scratches:
-display car voltage on the cluster and note it
-turn all the headlights, blower and rear defroster on and then note the voltage change
-start the engine and note voltage change.
-rev the engine and note if the charging voltage changes.
That applies to older charging system.
Goes down 0.1-0.2V under load
Goes up to 12.6 when it's started, and does not really change (0.1V the most) when I rev the engine
Replaced the starter 2.5 years ago with Mercedes OEM, hopefully, it will last for another couple of years




Often cluster shows 0.5V less than the charging system gives, so assuming that is the case here, 13.1V on battery clamps is low charging.
Meaning your new alternator is not delivering.
But then
Last edited by kajtek1; Aug 26, 2019 at 05:52 PM.




If you had insufficient voltage from an alternator, then you'd see all sorts of gremlins while driving. The fuel sipping alternator just keep batteries at a low state of charge.




A simple test for charging. On highway speed slow down either by just letting gas pedal off or even apply brakes. If you know how to display battery voltage on Comand screen you can see how the steady driving 12.6-12.7 volts jumps up to even 14.5 V.
Even easier test, put your rear fog light on and be amazed how the voltage jumps up to one volt higher.
Your problem is the starter. Replace it and no more problem.





