Hi Guys,

I'm looking to hear what you guys think about this estimate that I received yesterday from the dealer. Here's some info on my car;
2014 E550 BiTurbo M278 4-matic
69k
Purchased:August 2016 with 62k on the odometer.
Warranty: 3rd Party (Bumper to Bumper coverage - AA Auto Protection)

Issues: 2 months ago when it began to get cold in NYC I began to hear a noise upon startup for a few seconds. After researching I saw that many owners shared this same issue. MB released a TSB on this in 2013 "Rattle Noise after engine start for a few seconds (M278 M157 M276 engines.) After reading the SB and saw that no consequential damage can come it I was relieved. Even though I didnt have a check engine light on at he time I still wanted to check to see if anything would pop up. I recieved 2 codes; P0016 & P0011. I documented both codes for reference purposes and monitored it for the next 2 weeks. Conclusion; No change in engine performance or behavior. I continued to drive the car.

2.5 Weeks ago I get a check engine light on my way to work. When I got home that night I hooked up my icarsoft scan tool and I recieved 4 codes. P0016 P0011 and 2 new codes;
P2540 - The signal for the pressure sensor of the low fuel pressure fuel circuit is implausible.

B210D- The Power supply too low

Rather than trying to fix it myself. I said, I have the warranty I'm just going to use it and bring the car in. As the days go by I notice its taking a bit longer for the engine to turn over. Anyhow, I bring the car in after a week long wait for an appointment and I hand the car over. I explain to the SA that I notice the car is taking 1-2-3 seconds longer to start up and I feel that there may be a problem with the fuel pump or system. I also advise him that the car upon start up makes a clinking noise that goes away after 2-3 seconds. I brought a copy of the MB TSB and gave it to the SA for him to only pass it back to me. In my head, I said this guy didnt even write the TSB number down. I guess he just automatically assumed I knew nothing about cars.

In conclusion: The dealer calls me yesterday to tell me that they need to do a tear down on the head to check to see if the head is scored. He claims the cam is damaged and the cam adjustor needs to be replaced. He said this is due to poor maintenance (He said my engine was 2 quarts low on engine oil. No indicator on dash and my last oil change was 5k ago.) He said to do the tear down and change the cam and cam adjustor it would cost $6825. He then proceeded there is a possibility the head may be scored and if that is the case it would be nearly 12k to fix.
-Cam Adjustor
-Cam shaft ()

I told the SA I will come in on Monday to go over the details. If anyone has any input please feel free to advise. I will post the MB Diagnosis and codes to this post.

Thank you!!!

 

wow, has the warranty company approved the repair?

 

Was the oil change documented to give to the SA as evidence of proper maintenance? Was it done at the proper service mileage interval? Did you check for an oil leak under the car? Either the oil change people did not fill up to the right spec, the car leaked the oil, or burned it.

 

It States in my warranty contract that they will cover it. They spoke to the warranty company and they approved it. I just don't think they diagnosed it correctly. When Mb provided me the report on Friday it never showed a P2540 fuel code. I'm going down to speak with the SA and mechanic tomorrow and I want to see how they came to the conclusions they came to based on what they see.

 

The indy car dealer I purchased the car from stated they gave the car a tune up oil change, replaced cabin filter, replaced air filters and checked all points of the vehicle prior to me purchasing it. Therefore I do not have documentation to prove the oil change.

I have 2 concerns:
1) I walked into MB knowing why the engine was making noise upon start up. I provided him the bulletin and he basically passed it back to me. On the TSB it states chain tensioners L & R need to be replaced and check valves have to be inserted into the head to eliminate flow of low oil pressure (This is reasoning for the noise).

2) Why didn't the mechanic indicate Any mention of P2540 fuel pump code when he diagnosed the car?

Instead I get a diagnosis that states I need a new cam and camshaft adjuster and on top of it Possibly a new head if it is damaged.

I honestly think the diagnosis is wrong.

 

I attached a copy of the TSB and picture of the codes I pulled prior to going to MB

 

if youre having second thoughts, take it to another dealership, dont tell them about the previous diagnosis and see what they come up with.

i dont blame you for doubting the dealership coz they are (most times) full of s**t but its like getting sick and googling info then going to a doctor and yet believing more on what your read from the internet than what the doctor told you.

warranty will cover everything, the dealer will do the repair so im guessing repairs and parts are covered. just make sure all the symptoms you mentioned are written in black and white when you pick your car after the repair. if symptoms still occur after, then bring it back. im assuming you have yrs of warranty left.

 

Absolutely best way to go beejAMG. Verify at a second dealer and have everything documented should they not repair it properly.

 

Beej is right on. Go somewhere else and see if they come to the same conclusion. You have a warranty, but you want the actual problem fixed, not someone's suspicion of the problem.

 

You have a dealer telling you what is wrong and a warranty company agreeing to pay the bill? But, you and others want to second guess both of these parties because of some opinion read on the internet. Both these people have huge money invested, work on these problems daily, and see more in a week than most will ever see in a lifetime. I'm not saying they cannot be wrong but will guarantee you they have 100 to 1 better odds than anybody here has of being right without seeing the vehicle and having their experience.

 

This is probably the most logical thing here. If we were talking you having to pay out of pocket, have a high deductible or something like that, I agree, get a 2nd opinion. But in this case none of that seems to be a discussion point. The warranty company agrees with the diagnosis and will pay for the fix. Fix it. Unless your issue is you hate the dealership. Then just hand everything over to one you like and have them do it.

 

if you always believe what the dealership tells you. then you must still believe in the boogeyman and santa clause.

dealership will tell you to replace a perfectly good part if they know they can make money off you. not that im siding with anybody, but theres nothing wrong with getting a 2nd opinion.

I dont blame OP for feeling that way, i get that too. i tend to research a lot before I go to the dealership (if I even). so if they tell me a fix that doesnt jive with what I have in mind, i would second guess them as well. BUT...like I said, id get it fix with that dealership. if the symptoms are still there after. ill return the car. at least some parts of my car are brand new, oem and with accompanying warranty. besides, 3rd party warranty will pay for it.

 

Man you are absolutely right

 

Yeah you're absolutely right but based on what I just found out my possibility of being right some what increased.

 

JALLEN4... please see link and read specifically post #19

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-gas-e350.html

 

r. I just walked out of the Mercedes dealership after had speaking to the shop foreman. The shop foreman in my opinion did not expect me to come prepared based on my impression. He basically excused himself from the conversation and walked away because he did not know what to say to me. I was able to verify with him that my car DID NOT have a check valve installed.

My next question to him was "does my car have the updated chain tensioner that is specified on the TSB?"

His reply: "I'm unsure."

My reply: So how could you come to the conclusion that I need a cam and a camshaft adjuster when the check valves were not installed at time of build nor were my chain tensioners inspected to see if my car had the revised tensioners.

His reply; "based on the codes I got, that was my conclusion"

I laughed

He then excuses himself from the conversation and acts as if he has someone waiting on him.

The most important question I wanted answered was, why was the P2540 fuel code not on the diagnosis sheet?? I indicated to the SA once again that I felt the car misdiagnosed and I felt the car has 2 separate issues. 1) being the check valves and chain tensioner and 2) a bad fuel pump or fuel sensor. The SA Couldn't answer my question and didn't know what to say. I believe I got my point across and SA assured me that the car will be reevaluated by lead tech tomorrow morning. I will update the thread once I receive diagnosis from lead tech...

Truly Unbelievable

 

good job mate

 

Well done

 

Those codes are not caused by the absence of check valves or old style tensioners. If those codes were processed and revealed the cam is off timing then let them fix that and just make sure that while they are in there they install the updated parts. And the fuel system codes could be the high pressure fuel pump which is fairly common or even the fuel filter internal check valve bleeding off fuel pressure.

 

Those Certified Mercedes mechanics must love getting the opinion of a backyard mechanic, I bet if they get a dime for everyone who question their work........... Do you really think he will do a good job for you now that you laugh at him? Should have just got a second opinion like others have said. Good Luck.

 

They don't really get anything for not doing a good job on your repair. Worst case scenario the dealership gets slapped with a lawsuit. Best case scenario they have to redo the repair for free or hope he just doesn't notice.

 

Before I retired from my Cadillac dealership, I would occasionally get a customer who was convinced all dealers were incompetent thieves and crooks. Having nothing better to do, they could always find opinions on the internet to agree with their assessment and enough nonsense to make them convinced they knew far more than a Master Mechanic with twenty years experience. At that point I would politely but very firmly ask them to remove their vehicle from my property and find someone they had more faith in. Often, the best deals you make are the ones you don't make.

 

I am sure if anyone look hard enough, they will find something on the internet to back up their argument. If its on the internet, it must be true right?

 

Update: MB SA just called to give me a final diagnosis...
Upon discovery of the check valves not being installed in my vehicle. After analysis, they also realized L+R chain tensioner's show signs of wear due to the mileage of the vehicle. Regarding the Fuel Code P2540; High pressure fuel pump failed. Pump needs to be replaced.

Conclusion:
- Check Valves need to be installed.
- Chain tensioner's (Left + Right) will be replaced.
- Fuel Pump will be replaced

SA advised; Upon installation of the above, codes will be cleared and vehicle will be reassessed to verify all issues have been addressed. "Hopefully no codes come back"

Im keeping my fingers crossed.