10.25 inch android headunit installed
you know to come to think of it you have a good point there ...it used to be pretty easy to spoof your Android version by editing the build.prop. You used to be able to make your Android version anything you'd like. The big reason I am suspicious is because no one reports that they're able to use the PiP function which is a staple of Android 7.0. Perhaps they edited the build. Prop to shut up us whining Americans....
could someone who has the product say what this link says?
https://whatismyandroidversion.com/
or maybe download this from the app store?
it will confirm the CPU and Android version... I just don't know if changing it in the build. Prop what effect would it displays but it's worth a shot
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ftware.andTest
this link will actually give the build number
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ired.droidinfo
awaiting the results
The information about the equipment is described
while the above page displays
for example, the Samsung S9 + displays
I am surprised....
Edit. I've got V2.
Last edited by OjciecKrzysztof; Sep 5, 2018 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Info about version
- the latest 8 cores + 4GB ram + 64GB capacity + Android 6.0 + Blue Light IPS Screen Panel + SIM card slots




Autostereo Android 8 7 Car GPS navigation head unit For MERCEDES-BENZ E220 W212 2010-2016 auto multimedia radio tape recorder
http://s.aliexpress.com/nYNvqqmM?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard
Last edited by Charlii; Sep 5, 2018 at 06:11 AM.
so that would explain WHY native pip isnt working!!!!! Its really android 6.0 as i suapected. Which falls in line with what the guy from china said. From whom did you buy your v2 from? Chris from this forum?
chris, i have a question for you. Android 7.1.1 released on Dec. 5th, 2016.
As you can see that evb3562v_c_66_m0's security patch level is June 1, 2016. This is the most common MediaTek's Android security patch release for 'Android 6.0'.

So really, evb356x models are running Android 6.0, not Android 7.1.1 Also, these devices seem to be missing many core google libraries which would seem to explain so much trouble with Play Store apps and lack of PIP. Are you aware of this?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Last edited by Chris The Swede; Sep 5, 2018 at 09:20 AM.




RAM seems fine for me, no problem running BRD rips and simultaneous apps like playing flacs while running Waze. For on board, also don’t care since it has SD slot (I run 200GB SD Card) and 2 USB ports. 64 onboard is just as pointless as 32. Both too small to hold your media, especially if you host videos and lossless audio.
i don’t get what all the apprehension is. The unit supports play store, is fast, GPS works, has dual USB, supports android auto, supports car play with a dongle, etc.
So far I have found only two apps that won’t run, Netflix and AT&T U-Verse and have not even tried side loading Netflix. I use Apple Music, Waze, Twitch, YouTube and VLC all the time and it all works great. I have not found a media file of any size or type it won’t play at full frame rates including 4K.
It is a car media interface, not a desktop PC. It does car stuff, lots and lots of car stuff and does it very well.
There will ALWAYS be another version or design on the horizon. After IPS there will probably be a newer OS, higher resolution or even OLED. You can play the waiting game with and endless “should I, should I” or have a great unit now and worry about what better comes along next year, next year. Other makers will have them more like the COMAND screen set into the dash like OEM, there is always something different coming along, always.
The situation is very simple. If if you want a better audio interface that supports and does more than COMAND ever could and do so with an elegant interface that wows your friends while rewarding yourself every time you drive, this V2 is the unit to get. And if you want good install support, including all the tips about secret menus and everything else that unlocks even more potential, get it from Chris.
Again...it is a CAR media interface. It is not your laptop on which you will be doing anything and everything. Really, it is already tricky manipulating half of what it can do while driving as it is.
Last edited by Skeechan; Sep 5, 2018 at 10:19 AM.
For hot-spot I've used an old galaxy a3 (first one),I've installed from play store Automate and I've created 2 "flows" - is quite easy and intuitive.
1st: when the phone is pluged to power adapter (connected to the socket inside the glove box and the engine is turned on - obviously) - turn off airplane mode, turn on hot-spot and activate flow 2.
2nd: when the phone is disconnected from power (turning off the engine) - turn off hot-spot, turn on the airplane mode and activate flow 1.
The phone battery consumption per night with these settings is 2-3% and it will be recharged in 5-10mins. In my experience data consumption for 2 hours of waze+Spotify per day is somewhere at 2GB monthly.
So now I have a cheap solution for hot-spot and is working flawlessly from two weeks now.
Guys, please keep this thread alive and share your tips and tweaks for this unit. Together we can diminish the frustration of spending +600USD for a semi retarded device.
RAM seems fine for me, no problem running BRD rips and simultaneous apps like playing flacs while running Waze. For on board, also don’t care since it has SD slot (I run 200GB SD Card) and 2 USB ports. 64 onboard is just as pointless as 32. Both too small to hold your media, especially if you host videos and lossless audio.
i don’t get what all the apprehension is. The unit supports play store, is fast, GPS works, has dual USB, supports android auto, supports car play with a dongle, etc.
So far I have found only two apps that won’t run, Netflix and AT&T U-Verse and have not even tried side loading Netflix. I use Apple Music, Waze, Twitch, YouTube and VLC all the time and it all works great. I have not found a media file of any size or type it won’t play at full frame rates including 4K.
It is a car media interface, not a desktop PC. It does car stuff, lots and lots of car stuff and does it very well.
There will ALWAYS be another version or design on the horizon. After IPS there will probably be a newer OS, higher resolution or even OLED. You can play the waiting game with and endless “should I, should I” or have a great unit now and worry about what better comes along next year, next year. Other makers will have them more like the COMAND screen set into the dash like OEM, there is always something different coming along, always.
The situation is very simple. If if you want a better audio interface that supports and does more than COMAND ever could and do so with an elegant interface that wows your friends while rewarding yourself every time you drive, this V2 is the unit to get. And if you want good install support, including all the tips about secret menus and everything else that unlocks even more potential, get it from Chris.
Again...it is a CAR media interface. It is not your laptop on which you will be doing anything and everything. Really, it is already tricky manipulating half of what it can do while driving as it is.
As a side note, do you mean micro SD when you say "SD card"? Which one are you using if you don't mind me asking?
Last edited by Skeechan; Sep 5, 2018 at 01:11 PM.
Looks like the unit is restricted in what adaptors it will pair with (many of these Chinese HU's only pair with devices named "OBD"). Short of decompiling MTCBluetooth3.apk and Settings.apk , modifying the smali files to remove the restriction and recompiling them, or rooting it and putting the Xposed module in its finding a compatible device.
Chris, is this something you could ask the developers about and whether they have restricted the devices it will pair with. Its one of your units.
"BlueDriver uses 2.0 so it’s compatible with all version of Android 4.4+ BlueDriver is an original design and not based on generic components, as a result it isn’t currently supported by other third party apps which expect elm components. If you’re planning on using it with an aftermarket Android head unit it might not be compatible, in our testing we’ve found that most of these tablets are based on a common custom Android build that is set up to only permit pairing with a specific type of scan tool and actively blocks our device from connecting."
I will be testing both OBD2 adapters in the next couple days to see if I can get either of them to work. I will report back.
This thing is a complete mess.
Things I have done and tried.
First my unit uses the silver video adapter since I do not have the OEM blue plug. The paper in the box (there was absolutely ZERO instructions included with this thing) said connect the red off of the silver box to white and black on teh adapter hardness. Done and no comand. Tried the thing earlier in the thread providing video (yellow) with 12v and still nothing.
Double checked the fiber optics were going into the adapter cable at the head unit, fine.
Check that the connector was well seated between the OEM harness and the adapter cable and the adapter cable and the head unit. The cable is very hard to plug into the head unit but is in as far as it will go and the latch barely latches.
Checked fiber optics again were plugged into the outer port.
What does work, RPM, door is ajar, reports correct temp and then android stuff itself, screen obviously functions, touch functions, some apps open, but that it is. Nothing works as it should when it comes to the comand interface, dial and audio. Car has ZERO audio now..
absolute same problem for me.
No OEM screen.
Door open , RPM and Air condition is shown.
Hope to find a solution here in this forum
Cheers Thomas
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post7514442
...and check the video starting at 6:56, then follow along until 7:28 and you will see Original Car Screen Resolution. There is no set number for every model, you just have to try different numbers, like 2 or 4 until you get the best command image. If you get no image after trying all of these, you need to recheck your wired connections.
Last edited by Skeechan; Sep 6, 2018 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Added picture
Before install (disregard my white legs):
The two blue clips to be removed from vent assembly:
Back of factory radio, just for reference:
Wiring harness in place, ready to connect up:
Below is how I ran the USB connector and 3.5mm Aux to through center console:
Notice the shrink tubing on the COMAND control knob. The 4 wire ribbon cable that is attached to the COMAND control knob is wedged underneath the console itself from the factory. From what I can tell, it's almost impossible to disconnect and remove the COMAND control knob without wrecking/cutting the 4 wire ribbon cable, unless a person were to remove the ENTIRE center console first. I still wasn't able to pull the cable out once I had the control knob disconnected.
Soldering the COMAND control knob's 4 wire connector back to the control knob itself. I had to completely disassemble the knob to get at the connector located on the PCB:
Here is how I ran the cables through the center into the center console storage:
The second USB routed to the passenger side footwell:
GPS antenna attached to rear view mirror. This took WAY less time than expected. It's very easy to remove the A-Pillar trim and run the cable to the rear-view mirror. Yes, I know the orientation of the antenna is all wrong, but it's only temporary until I get my cameras mounted. Signal is not too bad (Max 1M accuracy), and also appears to be accurate when driving as well:
Getting the factory radio back in was the hardest part in my opinion. That said, some people seem to have a much easier time than I did. It took me many hours to get the factory radio seated properly. You can see that the cables need to be tucked down as far as they can, with the block connector placed down in the crevice perfectly to avoid the radio catching on it:
And finally, the finished product:
Last edited by Splise; Sep 6, 2018 at 01:03 PM.
Not had the time to look any further into it yet.



