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ever since the beginning of winter 2017, and the temperature dropped below -20 Deg C. The rear of the car would be sagging when left overnight or when I’m at work. Both sides. I’m guessing there is a leak in one of the lines in the airmatic suspension. I understand that it’s an old car and this problem
is common with these systems. I’m wondering who has had the similar issue. Did you
find the leak yourself and fix it? Did you wait till it crapped out? To me the air compressor is working a a lot harder than it should now cuz of the leak and I don’t want this to be any more expensive than it could be if the problem can be fixed early. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by ChildishBenzino; Jan 9, 2018 at 09:47 AM.
ever since the beginning of winter 2017, and the temperature dropped below -20 Deg C. The rear of the car would be sagging when left overnight or when I’m at work. Both sides. I’m guessing there is a leak in one of the lines in the airmatic suspension. I understand that it’s an old car and this problem
is common with these systems. I’m wondering who has had the similar issue. Did you
find the leak yourself and fix it? Did you wait till it crapped out? To me the air compressor is working a a lot harder than it should now cuz of the leak and I don’t want this to be any more expensive than it could be if the problem can be fixed early. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
If you're handy with basic tools, you could get under the rear bumper, driver's side of the car and take a look at the valve body and the lines there. A few members have done the basic soapy water test, just spray it along the pneumatic line length and of course the valve body and figure out where your leak is. I wouldn't let this issue become bigger, just because a compressor is pretty expensive to replace. From what it sounds like , your malfunction doesn't seem to be a single rear air bag leaking, but more likely a valve body/air line issue since both rear corners of the car are sagging. Good luck!
If you're handy with basic tools, you could get under the rear bumper, driver's side of the car and take a look at the valve body and the lines there. A few members have done the basic soapy water test, just spray it along the pneumatic line length and of course the valve body and figure out where your leak is. I wouldn't let this issue become bigger, just because a compressor is pretty expensive to replace. From what it sounds like , your malfunction doesn't seem to be a single rear air bag leaking, but more likely a valve body/air line issue since both rear corners of the car are sagging. Good luck!
Thanks for the tip. When I get around to it I will try to do this leak test of the valve body and lines. I'll update when I get the chance.
Thanks for the tip. When I get around to it I will try to do this leak test of the valve body and lines. I'll update when I get the chance.
You're welcome! I can't remember what color the rear lines are, but I do remember they run along inside the compressor housing(coming from the valve body), so you'll have to remove the compressor splash shield, it's between the rear driver's side fender and muffler, held on by 4 plastic 10mm nuts and a metal snap clip to the muffler heat shield. Remove that and you'll also be able to inspect the compressor and air filter for it along with the two rear air lines. On the air spring side, where the air line connect to it, make sure you check the rubber protective sleeve on the actual line, if it's been torn or worn out, that's another possible leak point.
Hi - this site is great - hoping I could get a little more info - I got my car back from the Merc dealer - and now my car sags in the rear first time in 2.5 years...
Of course cannot blame on them - they just say its timing...
Since both sides are dropping ( even if the passenger side is more) - I checked the valve body as suggested - did not see any bubbles there red line and Blue (RR and LR) and at the airbags too. But since both sides are dropping - Am i correct in understanding that each corner can sit at a different height and that the valve body would separate out each corner? Thus telling me its the valve body control unit - Which I'm expecting is $$?
No external leak found @ valve unit or each air spring “could” be internal problem with either or both, moisture, etc. see attached bulletin for further details.
Last edited by konigstiger; May 5, 2020 at 11:24 AM.
Thanks Konigstiger - this was greats information - I pulled the main pump line - and put foam to it...it leaked if one would call it leaking - I would say it took about 5-7 seconds for a TINY 1/2 bubble to form So im just assuming after 10 hours of that would cause it to drop?
Still leaving me with 2 questions...
First again - if both the rears are dropping and I think the fronts too MAYBE VERY slightly - still leads me to think its the Valve body? because I am assuming the valve body will hold pressure between each of the 4 corner right?
Second - If and when i go to replace the valve body and release all the air - from each corner - I was thinking i could have each corner jacked up during the process and then gently lower the car once all back together which would then also trigger the car to actuate the pump and refill - does that sound right...I read somewhere it said do not while car is on the ground - it will blowup the airbags? Not sure how or why that would be true?
Which leads me to my last question - I see these valve bodies going for a cheap as in $65 to an OEM Merc for about $350ish or more...Anyone use the cheap part - Im mixed - More tempted for the genuine...
i just replaced both of my springs last week. for me it was the right spring leaking as in once in a while i'd come to the car and right rear corner would be on the floor. if you have both sagging equally most likely its not the springs but a line or valve block.
I have a new Valve Block coming - I just need a couple of extra jacks to raise the car up off all 4 corners...
And of course while investigating - I found my driver side shock is weeping - so now the I have to think - do i buy 2 new shocks or find a younger donor car...and then they not do the airbags at the same time since they are Orig too...<sigh> where does it end...
I have a new Valve Block coming - I just need a couple of extra jacks to raise the car up off all 4 corners...
And of course while investigating - I found my driver side shock is weeping - so now the I have to think - do i buy 2 new shocks or find a younger donor car...and then they not do the airbags at the same time since they are Orig too...<sigh> where does it end...
And my Warranty ends in Dec...
hi, wondering where you left off? i’d say if you found a leak in the line that you’d replace that - at least first. Did you replace it to see if it resolved?
from what I can see if there’s water in the system or otherwise you have to replace the air filter and connecting lines, and then ultimately from the service bulletin it’s calling to replace the compressor itself it looks like…?
I found a hair line crack in the top of the airbag so I replaced it with a Arnott air bags - I just ended up doing both sides - I think they were like 100 bucks each so it was a no brainer and not that hard to do both.
I also found a rear shocks from an amg with I think 37K miles on it - and swapped to them ( got them from an ebay dealer that specializes in Merc parts - had great luck with getting good parts from them for more than reasonable prices)
Car now rides perfect when in comfort vs Sport is now truly sport! very noticeable diff between them
No issues in 2 years - I know many think airmatic is not a preferred option but i love mine regardless of the few issues I have had - it is pretty easy to work on once you work on it.
Key thing to note is DO NOT TURN on the system with the car off the ground - you can blow up the air bags...that would be bad..
Anyways good luck - ping me if you need any other insight - or Konigstger is amazing for any key info too !!!
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