skrt

Well i guess i could say let the journey begin Few weeks back i bought my first Merc E250 2010 wagon. Friend needed money for restoring his old BMW e24, i just finished restoring my e34, was a bit bored, needed new project, price was right and despite my wife "daggers" look when i told her about bringing another car home...well its mine now Um and yeah that look on her face is still there

Let me clarify first im not full time mechanic or anything of that sort i just like getting my hands dirty taking things apart and well try to fix them.

Car came with a few bumps and bruises, windshield washer function malfunction (it starts but doesn't spray water) and yeah sum oil leeks. Engine has about 250.000 miles but other then that car just works. Which is kinda little wow effect when you come from BMW

I started to repair this little glitches now one by one. First oil leak was from the transmission oil pan and its electronic sensor unit at the side. Im sure most of you are familiar with this. Draining the oil, new seal, filter and new sensor housing unit solved the problem. New oil was put in and transmission box runs smooth as it should. When i was buying the filter for the transmission i just bought all the rest to and made full replacement of more or less all the filters on the car.

There were two more leaks one is the engine oil and other is the water pump. Engine leaked oil as it seemed on two places. First it was around the edges of oil pan. So i drained the oil, struggled half of the day to get that pan off because i didn't want to unscrew the full front bridge and by the looks of it seemed easy. Well its a fu.... pain in the *** and if i would be doing it again would probably just unbolted and lowered the whole front bellow the engine Well oil pan finally came off, i changed the gasket around for the new one, cleaned it and bolted it back.

Oil pan is now ok but there is still some oil coming from the top of the engine. I could see the turbo charger hose being wet to. I ordered the new seal for the cylinder head cover ( A 651 016 00 21 ) and in the next days i plan to take the front apart. Plan is to replace the head cover seal, water pump, thermostat, take down the turbocharger take it to the shop for the check and restoration and i presume intercooler would be smart to clean while im at it to. If turbocharger hose is wet there is probably some oil in it also.

Any suggestion maybe for what to be aware of during this? Im slowly getting to know the engine and it seems pretty bulletproof if regularly maintained. Checked and injectors were replaced, chain is still ok all i want to do now is seal the engine properly as it should be. But ok car had made its fair share of miles, i got it way bellow market value so have some space to invest in it and make nice big car addition to family car park. Also does maybe anyone have bolt tightening torque specs for the OM651 engine? Im looking for the turbocharger part of the engine.

Here are some pictures when i first went under the car. They are not best but will make more in the next days when i disassemble the front.

skrt

Oil leaks are in most cases now gone. I also refurbished a turbocharger and car runs smooth to... except when you really kick down on a pedal then it goes in to the limp mode. I read the fault codes and it finds P2263 code which should be connected with the boost system charger performance. Im sure that turbocharger is good, it was refurbished by professional and i followed all the assembly guides (replaced the seals, o rings, fill it with oil before first start...). Parts used for turbo refurbish were from Melett.

The thing is that car runs fine for some time. Turbo works then when you climb a hill on motorway at about 140-150kmh the engine light comes on and on obd you can read P2263 fault code. As i read on the google about the error it can be just about anything from injectors to dpf. Did anyone experience anything similar?

kajtek1

You might want to repost it in diesel section?
Looks like your new E250 holds the mileage section record now as mine at 183k miles did hold it so far.
Mine is bone-dry so wonder why yours is having so many leaks. Than my control arm shows bad rubber, what is not good surprize
Anyway - for booster performance check the system for leaks. I already replaced seals on intercooler hoses (talk about sticker shock).
Enjoy the drive.

skrt

Newbie here and yes if one of the admins would be kind enough to move this thread in appropriate section i would appreciate it.

I guess that the leaks are result of one of the previous owners who wanted a merc but didn't really have the founds to maintain it properly. Car just needs a bit of love and about 2k of financial injection for spare parts and will run like new again. Plus this is kinda my hobby so don't really mind getting my hands dirty. Was afraid a bit at start because of the all the electronic gadgets but i see now its not that bad if you just use common sense and unplug everything as you should before you start taking things apart.

Thanks for the intercooler hoses tip. You are right, i cleaned them but didn't thought about the seals. Well one more thing on my to do list.

I think that the P2263 code might be also related to the injector return line. I was listening a bit more closely today and as it seems the seal some where on them is taking air from outside to. When you turn your key in to preignition mode and fuel pump starts you can hear that is not as smooth as it should be. When you drive car normally it doesn't really show but when you hit on the pedal hard it seems that affects the engine compression. Fuel pump was replaced 300 miles ago and i still hear air gaps some time so i think its related to that. Will call merc dealer tomorrow and order the A6510706381 part and see how it goes.

But as far as the record goes i have a friend who just clocked 400.000 miles on it at the end of the last year. He is using it for his taxi service and all he follows is service guide when certain parts need to be replaced. So we still have long way to go

ibi12341

I have the same issue with the same error code on my e250 and think it may be the fuel pump. Did you get it replaced and did it fix thenproblem?

skrt

No i ran a full diagnostic today and most of the stuff was in green. There were some communication errors between modules but other then that nothing out of the ordinary. Also ran tests on fuel pump and it returned no errors so i really don't know what could be causing it. The thing is that i get the P2263 code just when im cruising the highway at like 70mph, cruise control on and car starts to climb some hill. And even that not at every hill. I can drive the car over city for example for week at a time with no error code no matter if i drive really hard with pedal to the floor or completely calm. Then I make one highway trip with constant speed and few hills ahead and its there. If i run diagnostic after it i get this:
651.924 - CRD2 - 2.1l Fault P2263 Boost pressure regulation, incorrect flow
EOBD Fault P2263 Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost System Performance

Engine light comes on and car goes in to limp mode. Catch here again is that if i pull sideways and turn off the car then turn it right back on, engine light is still there but turbos work again as they should. If im not on the highway and driving through the city turning car on and off a few times engines light goes away on its own. The error is still saved just engine light goes off.

I assume there could be few things but two stand out a little. One is stuffed DPF and its creating back pressure other is some small vacuum leak. In any case would need star diagnostic and vacuum test to tell for sure. Unfortunately none of that tools are available directly to me right now so booked it already at dealers for full diagnostic. I guess best thing is to just wait now cause i don't really have idea. Im hoping its not intake manifold leak.

kajtek1

I will point you to diesel section again.
You might find it interesting, that DPFs for those cars are not stocked in America and I am getting feedback about 1/2 year wait for rebuild one.
Per local SA - DPF is wearable with 90k intervals for replacement.
Better think ahead.

slaurro

Did you get this fixed? I`m having the same problem on my C250 CDI. P2263 at constant speed on the highway. I replaced intercooler-turbo hose, the seals for the other hose from the intercooler, the intake manifold... still didn't fix it. On Star it shows me that the values read by the supercharged air pressure sensors are too low between 3000-3500 rpms.

MikamiE300

Thanks for your sharing. My E300 Blutec Hybrid using OM651 engine is developing oil leak around the oil pan now. Need to remove the plastic oil pan and replace the seal as you did. From service manual, it's required to lower the front axle carriage in order to access all bolts around the oil pan. I am particular interested to knowing more detail from your experience how you could have done that without lowering the front carriage. Some bolt of the oil pan locates in a very tight space, are you using some particular tool to reach it?
Particularly for these two bolts which are behind the subframe:



Appreciate.

Carlos Alves

I have a Blueficiency 2011 W212 E250 CDI Wagon, currently with about 117.000Km.

I love it!

But this week has been very dark for her and for me too!
I noticed that it left some engine oil stains on the garage floor and the level in the sump went down as well.
In order not to run the risk of losing all the oil and seizing the 2 turbos or even the pistons, I called a tow truck to take it to the official M.B. where all maintenance interventions were always carried out.

I received information yesterday that the leaks are from the crankcase, which is plastic made.

What's worse is that, they told me that to replace the crankcase, the engine has to be removed from the car, which implies a huge expense in labor, in addition to parts.

I think that the crankcase was not supposed to be replaced during the useful life of the engine, because if that were the case, both would have been designed so that it would not be necessary to remove the engine from the vehicle!

I have already realized that, although complicated, it is possible to replace the crankcase gasket without removing it, just by unscrewing it, but the official M.B. He told me that he would have to replace it and that would require removing the engine.
What is your opinion about this?
Do you think it's possible to replace the carter with the engine in the car?
Is it possible to take off the axle carriage, or lower the subframe to do the job, instead of taking out the engine?
Can you show some pictures?

Can you please provide me photos about that part of the service manual, as you've told:
"From service manual, it's required to lower the front axle carriage in order to access all bolts around the oil pan."?

I also ask you and all the guys to help me please, in the sense of trying to find out if there is any oficial "Service Campaign Bulletin" for it's replacement for a more relliable one, even for the Estates or Canada, where I can fit my situation so as to have a solid basis for claiming.

Although the warranty period has long since expired, I am sure that this is a design defect of the
"plastic crankcase", therefore the brand should assume the repair costs.

I don't think it's coherent that this part is so fragile, that it doesn't support such low mileage and only in 12 years!

I consider it unacceptable on the assumed premium brand Mercedes-Benz!

I've owned 5 other European non-premium brand cars, FIAT, Citroën and Peugeot with which I've covered more miles, for more years, without any similar problem.
I still have the1994 Sedan Citroën Xantia1.9Turbo VSX diesel with about 230.000Km, and the 2000 Wagon Peugeot 406Hdi 2.0 with about 243.000Km with no engine problems.

Thank you guys in advance for your cooperation.



W212 (2011) 250CDI Blueficiency Estate Avantgarde (204Hp)

Quint22

Assuming that you mean oil pan? As I recall the oil pan is plastic material. On other vehicles it is usually metal but many now adays do plastic. My truck (cummins) has metal however to replace the oil pan engine removal is usually required. To replace gasket possible with unbolting engine mounts and jacking engine it can be done. Not sure on the E250 that I have. Have not heard this complaint on the forums recently so probably more of an isolated problem however regardless of vehicle the oil pan gasket can leak.

Carlos Alves

Thanks for your reply Quint22.
Yes I meant oil pan.
I was also assuming they coul jack up the engine to replace the gasket.
They've just informed me the vehicle is ready.
I'm going to get it and ask them the reasons that justify that big and expensive job.
However I am thinking of complaining directly to M.B. in Germany for expense support.
I'll keep you informed about any eventual updates.
Thank you man.
Keep youself in good health.

Carlos Alves

The replaced oil pan and the two engine hidraulic supports.

The below part of the oil pan.


I was talking to the receptionist at the M.B. which clarified to me that
"despite the descriptions, which on the invoice describe the various stages of the repair protocol, mention dismantling the engine, it was only lifted in order to allow access to the screws to remove the oil pan, as well as the engine supports".
"The oil pan was replaced, because replacing only its gasket would probably not achieve a perfect seal".
"The engine's hydraulic mounts were also replaced because they had already lost their effectiveness".

In any case, I continue to find it incomprehensible and unacceptable why the engine in a Mercedes-Benz vehicle, (considered a premium brand) the oil pan seal was compromised with such a short mileage and in a period much less than what is expected for the vehicle lifetime.

When I bought the car, I chose the Mercedes-Benz brand mainly because of its advertised reliability -
(as advertised - "The best or nothing").

If the plastic oil pan, a piece that is subject to prolonged contact with engine oil at high temperatures, has been showing anomalies/problems that compromise its reliability and imply expensive repairs for customers, I think the brand should rectify the design and/or material of the part and do not neglect the situation.

I am already preparing my claim directly to Mercedes-Benz Group, Sa. - Stuttgart - Germany.

I'll keep in touch to update the situation.

See you around here.

P.S. - I still keep loving my M.B.

kajtek1

If that makes you feel better, on my Ford flagship 6.7 engine, the oil pan gasket start leaking below 20k miles. Suppose it took engine removal to replace it so warranty covered lifting 800 lb engine.
My 101 years old Ford T drips oil, but it was build with felt and paper gaskets.
The MM on the picture don't look too bad, still sticking up. I just replaced driver side and got the special wrench to do passenger now. At 150k miles, the center is "ringing the bell" inside the housing.
Now I know why top of the housing has plastic liner on 1 side. That is where engine foot rests when MM wears.