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I just did the panaromic roof lubrication yesterday.
Something I am curious.
The 3 drops per side of the Special sliding compound A 000 989 36 60 : https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...-989-36-60-MBZ
Does it actually lubricate metallic guide rail hidden ( I am assuming there is a metallic guide rail ) under the rubber+hairy trim or it lubricate the rubber+hairy trim itself ?
The 2 parts rubber+hairy trim is very tight, I doubt the lubricant can seep thru and make it past the rubber-hairy trims.
Also I do not have the "cross hatch area" at my wind deflector pivot arm. Mine is smooth. usually cross hatch pattern is to hold lubricant in place...right ?
What I do extra is as follows :
I apply plastic/rubber protection https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/...16-16-oz-spray
I am after UV protection and a rather slippery surface finish, without being oily and attract dirt.
To all rubber seal, the water proofing ones and to the wind deflector assy and the plastic skirt of the moving roof.
My thinking is this way.
To all rubber seal , the waterproofing ones, 360 degrees - I don't want the rubber seal becoming sticky and causing extra friction when the roof started to raise up from closed position.
The wind deflector when roof is closing, it does scrub against this rubber-hairy trim, hence I want it to be slippery.
The plastic skirt of the moving roof. Since it will rub a bit with the hairy trim when closing, I do not want extra friction to cause the plastic skirt to somehow miss the insertion and get crumpled upwards and get damaged
I don't know if these can ever happen ? :
The plastic skirt of the moving roof. Let say we like to drive fast at 70+ MPH and keep the roof open on a long nice journey.
That skirt resemble a rudder. Will long time turbulence caused it to minor deformed ? I mean if somehow it deformed outwards by a mere 3mm due to wind pressure...and upon closing the roof,
the vertical movement part, what if the plastic skirt edge get "caught " and bend upward and missing the insertion and get damaged ?
I hope my English explanation is clear enough , I don't know how to explain better. I am showing a sketch below, the red line :
To why I think in such a ridiculous way for the plastic skirt potential damage......... is from experience.
When I was still a high speed addicted young and bigger-*****-than-brain driver category , my window will get derailed from its rubber guide rail.
What happen is, I am a chain smoker who will open my window 50-30% no matter how fast I drive and I used to drive well above highest speed legal limit and very often and even outrun police car chase a few times.
The wind pressure hitting on the glass which is 50% open, will cause the steel X frame of the window raise mechanism to bend inward over time. 3 cars of mine got this wind damage window mechanism.
So when the X-Frame got damaged, when I close my window, I need to use my finger to push the glass out, to get it back on proper track.
If I do not push the glass outwards, the top part of the glass will jammed up to the rubber rail. , instead of sliding the rail, the glass is pushing into the rubber rail.
This damage occurs sooner when the car door glass window is frame-less type, which was my my Toyota Supra in 1983.
So that sliding roof plastic skirt, kinda remind me of my windows .......
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If you don't feel like paying $80+ for the real thing, ECS tuning still sells a much smaller amount for $10. I've used it a few times and I still have plenty left, don't need to use that much.
04-28-2019, 01:57 PM
, I don't know how to explain better. I am showing a sketch below, the red line :
, my window will get derailed from its rubber guide rail.
