EuroDriverSD

I have a 2016 E350 (non-airmatic, non-4matic). I need help with "Active Headlamps Inoperative" code.

The background is that I just retrofitted the ILS LED headlights onto my car. I had the coding done remotely. Upon being coded, the tech told me that there's a problem with both the left and right LED modules (control units). We ended the session and then he went sick on me. He's due to check it again this week sometime, but I'm trying to learn as much as I can to be ready for the sniff test since I'm not sure whether it's a faulty component or faulty coding. This is what I can tell you so far:
Headlight control units & voltage regulators are brand new
Fault Codes:
E1n9 - Left headlamp
C152616 - The left rear level sensor has a malfunction. The limit value for electrical voltage has not been attained. Status A+S
C156E00 - Calibration of the vehicle level was not performed. Status A+S
[my car is not equipped with a left rear level sensor - only left front]
LIN: E1n7 - Actuation module, LED exterior lighting, left front (AMLAB-L)
B1FB801 - Temperature sensor 3 of the control unit 'Actuation module, LED exterior lighting, left front' has a malfunction. There is a general electrical fault. Status A+S
E2n9 - Right Headlamp
B1FB801 Temperature sensor 3 of the control unit 'Actuation module, LED exterior lighting, right front' has a malfunction. There is a general electrical fault. Status A+S

Low beams, high beams, turn signals & DRLs all work normally. So does auto on at dusk.
All components show voltage and temperature values within parameters
Upon startup when the headlights calibrate, they move out, in, down and up

Anyone have any insight?

EuroDriverSD

I've been observing this interesting symptom that occurs consistently after the car has been run for a few minutes. After about 1-2 minutes after I shut off the engine, the right headlight flashes once. (See video right at about 1:28 mins)
What do you make of this - any ideas?

LILBENZ230

WTF indeed. I doubt you're going to find the help you need on the forum - even though it is a great resource, I don't think most people have undertook this to this level.

Also - your DRL fade-off is much faster than my car. I'm not sure that ultimately matters but I did want to point it out as another abnormality.

EuroDriverSD

Thanks for the input.
I started the video near the end of the DRL fadeout just to keep the video clip as short as possible, but I think they are behaving normally.

Yesterday the tech spent almost 2.5 hours re-coding everything and at the end, I still have the "Active Headlamps Inoperative" message on the cluster. He asked me to verify the wiring against the diagrams and I have been directed to a retrofitter here in San Diego who is going to check it out and is confident he can resolve it.

Nevertheless I believe there may also have been a coding error because last night I didn't see that weird flash - I will keep an eye on it and I'll post an update after I get it checked

LILBENZ230

It all seems absurdly complicated. How do other car manufacturers manager to thrive without everything requiring some sort of coding?

I know, I know - wouldn't be Mercedes if it wasn't like this.

EuroDriverSD

The coding is well, um yea - very Benz-ish. I saw the guy go through a handful of programs to get it done: Vediamo, Xentry, Venice, WIS, EPC, Notepad and who knows what else.
From what I was able to decipher - the headlights and modules get coded to the car as "high theft" items. as for the functional coding, there is a mind-numbing number of options starting with left-hand drive vs. right-hand drive, US, US and Japan, US and Canada, DOT, ECE, etc., plus all the particular functions called for. From there it becomes lists of hexadecimal values. Truly mind-boggling.

Very eager to see what the local retrofitter finds. I'll keep you posted.

LILBENZ230

Which makes no sense really. My Miata also has full LED headlights that are curve adaptive and automatic high beams. They perform just as well (perhaps better) than the factory ILS on the E350 and yet are plug/play simple.

EuroDriverSD

I guess the Europeans love their CANBUS systems, lol

Edited my last post, as the WTF flash is still there. I'm having a Mercedes retrofit specialist check it out this weekend. In the meantime, I'm going to play around with the grounding points on the harness. On the passenger side I grounded the harness on a common grounding point where there was already several ground wires - I wonder if that's what's throwing it for a loop.

LILBENZ230

Tell your Mercedes specialist that I need him to activate the rest of the ILS features on my car that are disabled in the USA.

Keep us posted how it goes. This is definitely an undertaking and hopefully can serve as a guide for anyone in the future as these cars come down in price and more people are interested in the retrofitting.

EuroDriverSD

I will definitely keep you posted

Well, I shall ask!

EuroDriverSD

Ask and you shall receive - pm coming your way...

EuroDriverSD

Here's the latest developments
I'm now working with a new tech locally and he suspects the harness is miswired. He also said it needs the rear level sensor and the harness is not wired for it.
It's going to be another decent chunk of change to have him reconfigure the harness and he wants me to revert to the static LEDs so he can start fresh.
I'm reaching the point of abandoning this project even though I feel I'm so close.
Turns out all these guys I've been working with all know each other and they don't have nice things to say about one another.
Uuuggghhhh

Teepounds

Problem is probably SCN coding. I had a similar issue with my 2014 E350 non 4matic too. I wonder if you got the problem sorted out. Any insight on what caused your temperature sensor to malfunction? Tech said I have to changed my headlights because of this villain sensor, My headlight keeps getting condensation after a few minute of running. I wonder if you encountered a similar issue before your Ballast modules gave up

S-Prihadi

The question is, can you get away without a rear height sensor ?

SP

S-Prihadi

SD,
See page 2 and 3 of pdf attached.
You may have issue because the 640/641 dynamic led can do AUTOMATIC HEADLAMP RANGE ADJUSTMENT and that needs Rear Level/Height Sensor.
Check which 212 version is yours.

Good luck

S-Prihadi

One more thing, which may help when you do coding.
In your post https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-w212-diy.html
You wrote :
For auto dimming and automatic high beams, you need to have the stereo camera option on your windshield.

This is not correct, the automatic high beam part. I have automatic highbeam 628 code and I do not have stereo camera.
The auto dimming part I actually never try , because I cant find a road that straight with no other cars at night.... in the city.

Not a stereo camera


641 ( RIGHT hand drive ) and 628 option on mine




From a vehicle speed of v = 90 km/h onwards and radius of curve of r > 800 m for a driving distance of more than s = 2.5 km, the light output of the front Vario LED lamp units is increased linearly by the corresponding LED exterior lights actuation module to P = 38 W. The left headlamp control unit as from a speed of v = 110 km/h and a curve radius of r > 800 m for more than s = 1 km driving distance, actuates the left headlamp range adjustment actuator motor (E1m1). The headlamp unit of the left front lamp unit is raised. The range of the low beams is thus increased. The maximum lift is reached at v = 130 km/h. If the vehicle speed drops down to below v = 80 km/h, the "motorway lights" function is disabled.
( This is LEFT hand drive info ). From GF82.10-P-3090FLM Function of Intelligent Light System

Good luck with ur troubleshooting

EuroDriverSD

Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions. As of now, I have a retrofitter working on it. As some of you correctly stated, the rear height level sensor is required. From what the tech has told me, the coding seems correct. The likely problems are the missing rear height sensor and the kabeldaviko harness I bought from CKM is not properly wired (for starters, it does not have the wiring for the rear level sensor).

My next problem/frustration is that this guy only works on my car on his available weekends with weeks in between just waiting. His frustration is that Kabeldaviko has completely refused to offer any assistance in providing their wiring diagram, troubleshooting or anything at all.

fatjoe

Hi Please advise update on your situation? I am looking at a car C250 - W205 with LED headlights (from factory it seems).

Which has these 2 errors like you:
C151E16 left fron level sensor malfunction. limit electrical voltage not attained.
C152616 left rear level sensor malfunction. limit value electrical voltage not attained

Why would this happen on a car which has LED headlights from factory?

EuroDriverSD

That is strange that you are not getting enough voltage from both the front and rear sensors. The question is if you are not getting enough voltage or are you getting no voltage at all. Diagnosing each sensor via Xentry should give you real-time voltage readings as you move the sensor arms through their range.
I think the best thing to do is to check the voltage at the harness for each sensor. If they are receiving voltage, then check the output/resistance of each sensor. Since both sensors are malfunctioning, I am suspecting a wiring problem, SAM, fuse or something of that sort but I guess it is possible that both sensors died - sorry I wish I could be of more help.

BTW, S-Prihadi you are correct - stereo camera not necessary, only single multifunction camera and rear Level sensor also required

pierrejoliat

My 2003 S500 did this headlight thing for 14 years, they never could figure it out, my 2007 S550 the passenger door handle LED would go on in the garage at night, did this for 9 years, dealer never figured this out either.

Aleemzee

Hey! Kind of an old post but

i’ve a w212 - 2014 I was playing around zero adjustment from my autel device but then i got a code

C156E00. Calibration of the vehicle level was not carried out

So the issue is the calibration requires vehicle actual values of the sensors to be in permissible range.

Left Front Level Sensor is OK 2.8v
Left Rear Level Sensor is 4.5V and is in red color

Can someone guide me where this sensor is even located? The rear level sensor. My car is not airmatic

LJAUTO

Did you ever fix the temperature sensor issue? Struggling here!!

LJAUTO

you ever figure out the temperature sensor issue?

EuroDriverSD

Yes I did. I believe the "temperature" issue was a faulty voltage regulator - that's what my coding tech from Germany told me. In an abundance of caution, I replaced both the voltage regulators and both control units with genuine Mercedes ones and the problem was solved.
Also, you are not going to be able to get rid of the "Active Headlamps Inoperative" message unless you install both the front and rear level sensors and have them calibrated.