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At first glance answer seems obvious: Why not? 1 end to one, other end to the other! But here are a few complications and here is the mercedes factor (which means it is different than your average car things can go wrong and expensive if you arent careful enough).
I got a dead toyota laying around, and i need to start it. Something that i am ware about is that I own E200, which is turbocharged 1.8 liter, but the toyota hilux i got has 4.0 liter engine (2005)! So will it start that huge 4.0 car, or it can cause any harm to both cars?
And secondly, as you know there are 2 batteries on this car. From which one i should jump the toyota from? I assume the one near the engine, right? On top left, there is a plastic, when you take it off there is a battery. That is the one i should connect one end of the cables to right?
Or im just being overly paranoid? I think someone in this forums tried to start another car using their w212, so how did you do it? any complications or anything? Would love to see your replies, thanks!.
At first glance answer seems obvious: Why not? 1 end to one, other end to the other! But here are a few complications and here is the mercedes factor (which means it is different than your average car things can go wrong and expensive if you arent careful enough).
I got a dead toyota laying around, and i need to start it. Something that i am ware about is that I own E200, which is turbocharged 1.8 liter, but the toyota hilux i got has 4.0 liter engine (2005)! So will it start that huge 4.0 car, or it can cause any harm to both cars?
And secondly, as you know there are 2 batteries on this car. From which one i should jump the toyota from? I assume the one near the engine, right? On top left, there is a plastic, when you take it off there is a battery. That is the one i should connect one end of the cables to right?
Or im just being overly paranoid? I think someone in this forums tried to start another car using their w212, so how did you do it? any complications or anything? Would love to see your replies, thanks!.
If your dead car battery is dead you can cause severe voltage drop if you crank it. Jump the battery and let your car run and charge it at least an hour before you try cranking that Toyota.
I jumped MB with MB on several occasions. Still don' t understand why "best or nothing" allows leaving headlight on, when DW goes shopping.
But years ago I "invested" in commercial #2 jump cables and I am very careful with clamping them.
For protection of jumping car it is better to have ignition key out.
That is good when jumped car still has some power left and you jump for helping only.
When the battery is dead, you better replace it and don't relay on jumping.
If your dead car battery is dead you can cause severe voltage drop if you crank it. Jump the battery and let your car run and charge it at least an hour before you try cranking that Toyota.
I disagree, you don't need to have the it charge for that long. A good thick jumper cable can do anywhere from 200-400 amps, most batteries are probably in the 70-90 amp hour range. I always connect the negative to the frame of the dead battery last and then rev the engine a little for a couple of minutes and that's usually enough to give the dead battery a little bit of a charge and you can then normally just start the car. I would jumper from the main battery, not the aux one.
Ideal way is to take the battery out and put it on a charger as using the jumper cables is basically a high current charge and so is driving the car around a little bit afterwards to charge it up. Batteries don't last as long when you give it a high current charge, 10 amps or less is best for longevity and of course killing it doesn't help either also cuts into battery life. Still, it's a pain to remove a heavy battery so an occasional jump now and then is still the quickest way to get going.
IMO, there's lots of differning opinions on this topic. So I really don't know what to believe.
As for the original question, I've used my W212 to jump start several cars on several occasions (my son's Honda CRV once, and my own C320 5-6 times). I haven't noticed any ill effects.
every place is closed in our city right now except grocery stores hospital and stuff. And the battery isnt dead, its just low on voltage, it cranks but wont start. Shoulda bought a starter thingy, but still, stores closed, customs hold everything because of this coronavirus.
IMO, there's lots of differning opinions on this topic. So I really don't know what to believe.
As for the original question, I've used my W212 to jump start several cars on several occasions (my son's Honda CRV once, and my own C320 5-6 times). I haven't noticed any ill effects.
you connected the car to the front battery right? Like in the engine compartment, not trunk. You didnt disconnect anything either, or you did something different than normal procedure? My owners manual is in German, and heck i dont even know what hi means in German and google translate sucks. So would love to hear what to do and not to do :/
you connected the car to the front battery right? Like in the engine compartment, not trunk. You didnt disconnect anything either, or you did something different than normal procedure? My owners manual is in German, and heck i dont even know what hi means in German and google translate sucks. So would love to hear what to do and not to do :/
Of course use the main (front) battery. No need to disconnect cables from either battery. I connect the W212 at its remote connectors -- the red labelled Positive Tab under its sliding cover, and the brass Negative Post on the shock tower. Connect the receiving battery at its (matching polarity) battery terminals, as even my older MB does not have remote connector points.
Connect positive to positive first, then negative to negative. (Or is it the other way around?) Then start the W212, then the receiving car engine.
Of course use the main (front) battery. No need to disconnect cables from either battery. I connect the W212 at its remote connectors -- the red labelled Positive Tab under its sliding cover, and the brass Negative Post on the shock tower. Connect the receiving battery at its (matching polarity) battery terminals, as even my older MB does not have remote connector points.
Connect positive to positive first, then negative to negative. (Or is it the other way around?) Then start the W212, then the receiving car engine.
Not Rocket Science at all.
so I start by connecting one end just on the dead cars battery contacts, but in mercedes, i connect the terminals not directly to battery, but their special places( see pic below)? I ask you because my english is not definetily good, so just to make sure. Thanks for your patience! src google
The standard way to do it is as mentioned earlier. Connect positive to positive. Then connect negative on the car with the good battery. Car should be running before you connect the cables so you get extra output from your alternator. Connect negative on the good battery. Then connect the negative to the body of the car. Or connect directly to negative. Be wary that when you jump a dead battery, you can get a lot of hydrogen gas when the battery rapidly charges and if you have sparks you can get a battery explosion so that's why safety glasses are recommended. Battery explosions are actually quite common. That's why it's recommended to attach the negative to the car body away from the car battery so if there are sparks which there normally is, it won't cause a battery explosion if the battery is venting hydrogen. I normally just connect up the positive and negative to the car with the good battery first, then do the positive and body ground to the dead battery second as positive to positive means running back and forth and you have to make sure the positive and negative cables don't actually touch. The reason people seem to screw it up is that they end up hooking positive to negative and that ends up frying the electrical system.
Well, that picture is not how my 2016 appears, but otherwise, yes, you have found the remote connections. Subject to someone stating otherwise, I always connect the jumpers to the donor car, first.
The standard way to do it is as mentioned earlier. Connect positive to positive. Then connect negative on the car with the good battery. Car should be running before you connect the cables so you get extra output from your alternator. Connect negative on the good battery. Then connect the negative to the body of the car. Or connect directly to negative. Be wary that when you jump a dead battery, you can get a lot of hydrogen gas when the battery rapidly charges and if you have sparks you can get a battery explosion so that's why safety glasses are recommended. Battery explosions are actually quite common. That's why it's recommended to attach the negative to the car body away from the car battery so if there are sparks which there normally is, it won't cause a battery explosion if the battery is venting hydrogen. I normally just connect up the positive and negative to the car with the good battery first, then do the positive and body ground to the dead battery second as positive to positive means running back and forth and you have to make sure the positive and negative cables don't actually touch. The reason people seem to screw it up is that they end up hooking positive to negative and that ends up frying the electrical system.
Thanks for the clarification. That is how I understand it, too.
Shown prongs are for emergency start of this vehicles, so I would be caution about using them for outgoing power.
When I am not good with electronics, I heard a lot how voltage spike can cost several thousands dollars damages on digital cars.
Typical case for jumped MB is that cheap cables will drop the voltage drastically. So when you turn the ignition and voltage drops below certain voltage, the key will lose rolling codes sequence and especially when you have keyless go, that alone will turn expensive.
When frying computers is less risky, that would turn even more expensive.
That is why I am saying that if you are giving a jump, take the key out of ignition and try to connect cables to battery terminals.
Use the terminals from pics posted above. Don’t need to directly connect to battery. There isn’t an in-going or out-going difference. The red positive remote terminal under the red cap just directly connects to the battery positive terminal. So, in essence it’s just an extension cable to the battery. I’ve jumped numerous cars using those terminals as well as jumping my own car with it. I believe that’s what the manual calls for as well.
I will not jump a car with any Mercedes. Just a personal rule after a tint shop jumped my W211 and it cost about $1000 to get it sorted.
Regardless such experiences, we still will find lot of ignorants taking their chances.
It is like going grocery shopping without gloves and sniff the stuff from the shelves.
Lot of people are getting away with it, than some not so.
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Can I jumpstart another car with E class w212?
