When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If my car have the stop/start, I'll consider drain ATF and remove the oil pan first. That's up to you.
Originally Posted by Roop94
Yes, I have that link bookmarked, just hadn't had the chance to read through all of it yet. I'm going to bleed the brake fluid first and then focus on the ATF change.
I also have two videos of replacing brake fluid, maybe useful to you.
Another question, the pump I saw you use is from Home Depot, what was the size of the tube that you connected to the pump and the filler adapter? Also, I don't have the XENTRY tool, it's quite expensive, what's the other method to check the ATF temperature? I take it that the temp gun isn't as accurate.
The tube is a regular 3/8" vinyl tubing.
For check the ATF temperature, somebody using a thermometer to measure the oil pan, that's quite different with interior sensor. see my video
that's 6 to 7°C lower than interior sensor. So the thermometer is the last choice.
The good news is an audience provided a cheaper method to read the interior thermo-sensor than MB Star, iCarsoft MBII for Mercedes Benz https://amzn.to/2SbcYMRMaybe that's the best choice to instead expensive MB Star.
I'm prepping to do this job soon so I have reread this thread multiple times. My VIN is WDDHH8JB5FB148240 and I have the start stop, which from the above means I have to remove the electrical auxiliary pump to gain access to the torque converter drain plug. It doesn't look like anyone confirmed the part number for the two pump seals, so I'm debating the likelihood of replacement is (do I feel lucky?). I really question if dealerships even bother draining the TC or not. I suppose if this is a 5 year thing and I've dug that far into it I might as well take the extra time to do it. I'm also debating if I should go with the MB fluid instead of the FCP kit since the cost difference is likely negligible when spread over 5 years.
I'm also debating if I should go with the MB fluid instead of the FCP kit since the cost difference is likely negligible when spread over 5 years.
MB doesn't make their own fluid. If it meets specs, it's the "real" thing. I went with the kit. But, you're right, if spread over a number of years, the price is negligible.
I completed this service today as part of my 6 YR / 60K service. Removing the auxiliary pump was no big deal (3 bolts) and the seals were intact, which I’m grateful for as I did not have any spares (dealership did not have). There was no additional cover over the torque converter access port. I ran into the same issue as Sr Leigh, with the TC drain plug being off centered. I too drilled out the hole to make it larger. I spoke with the dealership and they admitted that they do not drain the TC, and I can see why as it adds risk to the procedure. Even with better access, with the bolt off center I couldn’t get great purchase on it, and it was installed super tight. It came free but for a moment there I thought I was going to strip it. I can totally understand skipping that part and reducing a chance of getting yourself in a jam.
Other than the TC drain it was a pretty straight forward job. One rearward bolt was partially blocked by a subframe brace and is more easily accessed if you have 1/4” drive sockets. It seemed to take forever to get the transmission up to 45C but it was also around 30 degrees F in my garage with the door open.
I have a wagon and this was the first time I got all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time. I did lift by the differential in the rear, but could not get it high enough to put the jack stands at full height on the first try as the front end became too low to fit a jack under. So I set the rear at minimum height, then front at full height and then lifted the rear again to get to full height. That was probably the most stressful part of the entire process.
Thanks. No repair, just the normal maintenance. Do they make some sort of tool to get to the torque convertor nut/bolt without having to drill that anyone knows of?
I know this might be a late reply to you, but it varies with the car. In his video, he had to drill to get to the Torque Converter. My C218 (CLS 550) had the Torque Converter drain plug right within the hole of the aluminum casing. I had my friend turn the engine and the drain plug was in the center, no problem accessing that drain plug at all. But it was draining super duper slow. I got frustrated lol
I completed this service today as part of my 6 YR / 60K service. Removing the auxiliary pump was no big deal (3 bolts) and the seals were intact, which I’m grateful for as I did not have any spares (dealership did not have). There was no additional cover over the torque converter access port. I ran into the same issue as Sr Leigh, with the TC drain plug being off centered. I too drilled out the hole to make it larger. I spoke with the dealership and they admitted that they do not drain the TC, and I can see why as it adds risk to the procedure. Even with better access, with the bolt off center I couldn’t get great purchase on it, and it was installed super tight. It came free but for a moment there I thought I was going to strip it. I can totally understand skipping that part and reducing a chance of getting yourself in a jam.
Other than the TC drain it was a pretty straight forward job. One rearward bolt was partially blocked by a subframe brace and is more easily accessed if you have 1/4” drive sockets. It seemed to take forever to get the transmission up to 45C but it was also around 30 degrees F in my garage with the door open.
I have a wagon and this was the first time I got all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time. I did lift by the differential in the rear, but could not get it high enough to put the jack stands at full height on the first try as the front end became too low to fit a jack under. So I set the rear at minimum height, then front at full height and then lifted the rear again to get to full height. That was probably the most stressful part of the entire process.
Congrats you finish the job
The 45°C window only 1 or 2 mins to me, I'm southern California, so I have to hurry up to grab any sec
As you know the dealer won't drain the TC, that's means there are at least 2 liters ATF can not be replaced, that's why we should DIY on our Mercedes.
I know this might be a late reply to you, but it varies with the car. In his video, he had to drill to get to the Torque Converter. My C218 (CLS 550) had the Torque Converter drain plug right within the hole of the aluminum casing. I had my friend turn the engine and the drain plug was in the center, no problem accessing that drain plug at all. But it was draining super duper slow. I got frustrated lol
Yes, not all 722.9 has the issue. My W221 S550 is a pretty well align access hole to the TC drain plug.
I completed this service today as part of my 6 YR / 60K service. Removing the auxiliary pump was no big deal (3 bolts) and the seals were intact, which I’m grateful for as I did not have any spares (dealership did not have). There was no additional cover over the torque converter access port. I ran into the same issue as Sr Leigh, with the TC drain plug being off centered. I too drilled out the hole to make it larger. I spoke with the dealership and they admitted that they do not drain the TC, and I can see why as it adds risk to the procedure. Even with better access, with the bolt off center I couldn’t get great purchase on it, and it was installed super tight. It came free but for a moment there I thought I was going to strip it. I can totally understand skipping that part and reducing a chance of getting yourself in a jam.
Other than the TC drain it was a pretty straight forward job. One rearward bolt was partially blocked by a subframe brace and is more easily accessed if you have 1/4” drive sockets. It seemed to take forever to get the transmission up to 45C but it was also around 30 degrees F in my garage with the door open.
I have a wagon and this was the first time I got all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time. I did lift by the differential in the rear, but could not get it high enough to put the jack stands at full height on the first try as the front end became too low to fit a jack under. So I set the rear at minimum height, then front at full height and then lifted the rear again to get to full height. That was probably the most stressful part of the entire process.
I just tried my BAFX dongle and Torque app to test if it would read tranny temp, which it did! Makes it so easy to watch for 113F on my phone. What method did you use?
I just tried my BAFX dongle and Torque app to test if it would read tranny temp, which it did! Makes it so easy to watch for 113F on my phone. What method did you use?
Becareful, that reading is highly likely not transmission oil because I too thought so in the past. That is radiator coolant temp. I use Torque App with OBDLink LX. Trans Oil Method 1 or Method 2 is not trans-oil temp.
If yours is like my transmission G7+ with start stop and gear pedals, this unit does not give out transmission temp data using generic OBD2 PIDs. I do not know about non Plus model.
I use the icarsoft MB v2.0 to get the trans-oil data.
Easy to check, warm up ur car and when coolant temp goes to say 80C, you go and touch ur trans-oil pan. It will be less than 60C I am sure if idling only and not moving.
If you missed 45C and say use a 60C or higher, you can loose up to 500cc capacity due to the expansion or simply short by up to 500cc.
I reluctantly have my 2017 GLE 350 4MATIC with M276 and 722.9 booked for this service at the dealer on Monday. When I asked if they drain the torque converter, the service manager said, "I dunno." Jackhandles.
I will have the dealer do the 60k transmission service on Monday, and if I still have the vehicle at 120k miles I will probably do it myself.
Thanks as always to @39039 for the great videos and support to the community.
There's plenty of cars in which the torque convertor cannot be drained... splash and fill as they call them. Another is coolant, where only the radiator is drained. Just keep a maintenance interval and/or shorten it if you feel its necessary. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
On my wife's old Honda, I drained the AT at 100k and refilled (no TQ drain, nor serviceable filter). She drove another few hundred miles, drain and fill. Repeat again for a total of 3x drains and flushes.
I just tried my BAFX dongle and Torque app to test if it would read tranny temp, which it did! Makes it so easy to watch for 113F on my phone. What method did you use?
I used the iCarsoft MB 2.0. It will show the fluid temperature if you go into the transmission control module and select live data.
Becareful, that reading is highly likely not transmission oil because I too thought so in the past. That is radiator coolant temp. I use Torque App with OBDLink LX. Trans Oil Method 1 or Method 2 is not trans-oil temp.
If yours is like my transmission G7+ with start stop and gear pedals, this unit does not give out transmission temp data using generic OBD2 PIDs. I do not know about non Plus model.
I use the icarsoft MB v2.0 to get the trans-oil data.
Easy to check, warm up ur car and when coolant temp goes to say 80C, you go and touch ur trans-oil pan. It will be less than 60C I am sure if idling only and not moving.
If you missed 45C and say use a 60C or higher, you can loose up to 500cc capacity due to the expansion or simply short by up to 500cc.
Well would ya look at that, tranny and coolant are suspiciously the same value! Thanks for the heads up. I haven't used Torque for tranny temps before. Never had a need to. And I have that same icarsoft unit in my Amazon wish list. Was just doing some more research as to the best option to go with in terms of scanner before I pull the trigger.
I do wonder why Sr. Leigh's car required the TC drain access hole to be drilled out, that seems like something whack went on in the assembly of that car or something. Certainly, WIS doesn't mention anything about having to do this.
re cars without TC drains, my Volvo 240/740/940's with AW70/71 transmissions didn't have TC drains, the procedure was to drain from the pan, remove the pan, clean, and change hte filter, reinstall the pan and plug, then replace that amount that came out via the dipstick, then disconnect the transmission cooler return line, and plumb it into a graduated bucket, start the engine and let idle, and for each quart that comes out, add a new quart via the dipstick til it comes out clean. this replaces whats in the TC and whats in the trans cooler and its lines. I don't know if many other cars do something similar, but thats how Volvo was doing it in the mid 80s and 90s. this was typically done every 60K miles.
Thanks for the video! I just did this exact service on my car last week. It was a pain to get the fluid level correct. Had to keep going up and down on the lift to check the temperature of the transmission fluid and then drain it. I'd put more in, turn the car on and let it get to temp, run through the gears, then raise the car again and pull the plug expecting a bunch of fluid to come out, and nada! Went through that same procedure about 4 or 5 times before I finally got a dribble out of the tranny pan.
Earlier this week my dealer drained the pan and torque converter of my 722.9 in my W166 with M276. 62k miles. It seems to shift better, more smoothly and decisively. It might be psychosomatic on my behalf, I am open to that conclusion. I'm glad the service was done.
Thanks for the video! I just did this exact service on my car last week. It was a pain to get the fluid level correct. Had to keep going up and down on the lift to check the temperature of the transmission fluid and then drain it. I'd put more in, turn the car on and let it get to temp, run through the gears, then raise the car again and pull the plug expecting a bunch of fluid to come out, and nada! Went through that same procedure about 4 or 5 times before I finally got a dribble out of the tranny pan.
I followed Mr Leigh's video and put the full 9 quarts (or is it liters?) in at the start. I got nervous that I was going to get caught 1 short with the parts department closed but the garden sprayer pump did an excellent job of getting to the bottom. Once it started sputtering I released the pressure and could see the fluid back draining and knew I was good. As the transmission came up to temperature the clear PVC tubing allowed me to see more and more back drain.
Earlier this week my dealer drained the pan and torque converter of my 722.9 in my W166 with M276. 62k miles. It seems to shift better, more smoothly and decisively. It might be psychosomatic on my behalf, I am open to that conclusion. I'm glad the service was done.
I too feel the shifting is smoother, and that it could be psychosomatic. I used to have a harsh shift with part throttle downshifts from 5 to 4 and it seems smooth now. Could be my imagination, but at least I can forget about this servicefor a while. At least until it's time to do the service on my wife's 2018 GLE 350.
722.9 automatic transmission is very popular in Mercedes-Benz and served from 2006-2017. It has 7 forward gears and 2 reverse gears. Every 7 years/70,000 miles (made after 06-22-2010) or 4 years/40,000 miles (made before 06-22-2010) we have to change the automatic transmission fluid and filter of our Mercedes, that's requiring of Mercedes maintenance booklet. If your vehicle was equipped 722.9, that’s the most same process to change ATF and filter like this video, whatever made before or after 06-22-2010. For this vehicle (W212M276), the drain plug of the torque converter is difficult to operate, so I drill a hole on the shell to working easily. Something won’t happen on my W221M278. Another notice, if your vehicle made before 06-22-2010, the fluid is red and overflow plug is withe, otherwise the fluid is blue and the overflow plug is green. Just like other maintenance, change ATF is not a difficult job, just be patient. Good luck!
If my car have the stop/start, I'll consider drain ATF and remove the oil pan first. That's up to you.
The tube is a regular 3/8" vinyl tubing.
For check the ATF temperature, somebody using a thermometer to measure the oil pan, that's quite different with interior sensor. see my video https://youtu.be/hE9Ss8DsA0M that's 6 to 7°C lower than interior sensor. So the thermometer is the last choice.
This video is for when the ATF is sufficient and good..
But how to know when the ATF is insufficient? What would happen to know if it requires additional ATF refill ?
This video is for when the ATF is sufficient and good..
But how to know when the ATF is insufficient? What would happen to know if it requires additional ATF refill ?
the procedure for checking the ATF level is nearly the same as the one for filling it... you remove the plug, install the tubular fitting, then pump ATF up into it until it runs back out (so the level is at the top of said tube fitting). I believe Senor Leigh has a video on this on his youtube chan, but I'm not looking it up right now.
Newbie question: it seems a lot of fluid drains when the plug is removed from the pan, but at the end the goal is to fill only to the top of the overflow plug. Is this because the engine is running during the fill measurement step?
@up_too_late Please clarify the question, what are you getting at? Drain all of the fluid in the pan, and all of the fluid in the torque converter, if the transmission has a torque converter drain plug. Then refill to overflow when at operating temperature.
10-18-2020, 04:36 PM
