HI first time poster, does anybody know of have a how to to replace the front wheel bearings on a 2013 E350 4matic, i been looking all over the place but i cant seem to find an answer. thank you

 

Did you check the WIS? That's basically the Mercedes repair manual that the dealer uses. You can get a knock off copy on ebay for about $9.50.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Latest-2019-Mercedes-WIS-ASRA-EPC-Service-Repair-Workshop-Manual-Full-version/123679649919

 

The outer runs are pressed into the hub, so most of applications require press for removal/installation.
If you don't have a press, you can take it to a shop who does, but lot of member simply buy new hub with new bearings.

 

or you can just get an assembled hub and not deal with removing and installing.
that was the case for me , its not that much more money and way to save time,

 

Thank you, and also is there something else to do besides greasing and torquing everything back together, and what's the size of the nut holding everything together thank you

 

See attachments.

 

I really appreciate it, I cant thank you enough, I'll give it a shot in my days off from work. Again thank you

 

I am wondering if you have finally replaced your front bearing, I have the same issue with my front wheel bearing, and I am stuck in very beginning,
I can't remove screw/bolt (1) from front axle shaft. Did you finally be able to remove the screw/bolt (A 0009907503) from front axle shaft? I don't know why I can't remove the screw/bolt,
it seems so overtighted screw. If you don't mind to share, how did you remove the screw please? counter clockwise turning? or do I need special tools to remove the screw/bolt?
Thanks in advance.

 

I believe that's an external torx for the bolt. I can't remember the size but I have a set that goes up to E24 it was one of the bigger ones if not E24. It is a standard right hand rule bolt. Right to tighten, left to loosen.

I have a Milwaukee 2767 which has 1400 foot pounds of torque in reverse. Probably overkill, I think my mechanic got it off with a regular air impact gun which is typically in the 500-600 foot pound range.

 

A full size pneumatic impact has more than 1,000 ft-lbs. The axle nut is the highest torque fastener on a vehicle, it requires proper tools and know-how to remove it.

@John8118 Do you have the capability to remove a high-torque fastener? Mercedes also specifies that this nut be replaced, because they identify it as a single use item. Do you have the capability to install the new fastener, with the proper torque? 250Nm from memory.

 

Best advice. Unless John really can enjoy the work as part of learning and tools investment as hobby collection and not purely from cost savings angle.
BA33.30-P-1001-02H 160NM, loosen and then 120 NM and then 90 degrees tightening screw/bolt #1 and then some years of use, 200 NM+ value to fight when loosening is very possible.
With available working space as though as changing tires, 200NM is still do-able with long pipe and legs muscle in lift mode from a single person.

 

I have never try or remove high torque fastener in the past, and do you think, is it ok if I try on this, or just let the mechanic to replace it.
And yes, I think, I can install the new fastener with proper torque 250Nm. And I have already new screw/plug to replace the old one.
Thanks so much for all of you to help me, I am really appreciate it.

 

Thanks for the info, so I have the torx that fit to that screw/bolt. but its really hard to remove it, I only worry, it will break the screw, so I have bigger issue to face.

 

Thank you all, for the info and response, I am really appreciate for your kindly favor. As I just beginner try to fix myself as the dealership charge too much to repair the car.
Thanks so much, Hopefully I can find the video from YouTube how to replace front wheel bearing. Have a great day all. thanks again.

 

01. What is the length of your tool , with pipe extension ?
02. Are you using torx socket or offset torx wrench ?
If Socket, image as reference only : If offset Wrench, image as reference only : https://zrz.lv/en/produkti/king-tony...tray-9-1-2-eva

At 200+ NM you need a good Torx tool, one with high dimensional accuracy. That is no 1 priority to prevent bolt damage.
I doubt anything less than 60cm or 2 foot pipe, can amplify your strength enough.
However if the torx bolt position is kinda "submerged" and you need say something like this for your socket : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Selta-Ta...-/273547744357
I suggest you have someone to push the socket real hard into the torx bolt when you are applying power to loosen it, as slippage at torx bolt is likely.

If you do not have experience with high torque bolt loosening, it is not something a youtube video can actually help, because it is more on experience and muscle memory.
We are talking of a bolt with no rust, it is tough simply because it is big and tightened at high torque. So it is about muscle power and proper assisting tools.
While a torque bolt is good for strength and dimensional accuracy ( assuming your tool is decent ), a bolt is not as friendly to open as a nut with extra male thread bolt protrusion.

See photo link below for what I mean as : a bolt is not as friendly to open as a nut with extra male thread bolt protrusion.
This size 21 nut requires 100NM + 180 degrees tightening, which is surely above 200+ Nm
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8150476
If it weren't for me using additional nut to lock in place the wrench, it will slip easier because I only have 50cm of working space under the car and the wrench is a 40 degrees offset.
An extension tool which is not truly perpendicular ( like my 40 degrees offset wrench ) to the nut/bolt to be removed, is not a joy to use at high torque.

When we create an anti-clockwise or clock-wise spin on a tool which is not truly perpendicular ( and more so when you are lying down on your back ) , we also create a pull-out condition of the tool from the bolt/nut.
This is why you need someone to help you : to push the socket real hard into the torx bolt

Also do you have a 200 Nm torque wrench ?
When you need to tighten that bolt to 160Nm ( stage 1 ) or 120 Nm ( stage 1.1 ) , you need a 200 Nm torque wrench. Usually use maximum 75% of the torque wrench max value.
This bolt is your life safety when in use, so u later will need to tighten it back to factory spec, non negotiable.

This extender may come handy : I wish they sell this in my country. However if for 200+ NM on this extender, I don't know if the 2 "U-hooks" can handle the twisting force.

The available youtube videos for front wheel bearings change are non 4-matic, its easier than yours.
The closest non video info I can look for you is this : (not a W212, its a W211 )
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/4m...s-r-r.1579512/


Some scarry highlights :

omgosh those bearings are in tight

doing the same job on my 2002. I have a 12ton press from harbor freight.
Taking the hub off the knuckle wasn't bad.
But getting the bearing out of the knuckle pushed that press to the limit.
PB blaster, mapp gas x 5 min and hammering and finally the "pop".
A 20ton would have definately been better.

Best Advice from that thread :
I just wanted to put in an update since I had started this thread in the beginning. I wound up pulling off the steering knuckles and took them to a local drivetrain machine shop. The cost for the R&R of the bearings and derustification of the knuckles was $70 + tax.
After reading the other comments, I think that was right decision.


Good luck John.

 

Thank you so much Sir, you so kind heart try the best effort to help me how to solve this issue.
I'm kind of mistake to give the wrong information for the e-torx, to remove the screw, actually, I have the tools 19 mm 12pt socket with 1/2 in drive, but it fit well to the screw. And hopefully, it is the right socket or should I get the female torx e-torx E19 mm, but I can't get that size, most of the seller from Amazon or other retailer. the full set, from E9, E10...... E18. E20, E22 E24. so I don't know which one is the right socket to use.

Answering your question:
01. I have a breaker bar 1/2 inch drive, 2 feet long, and pipe extension (1.5 inch by 18 inch). And my digital torque wrench 1/2 inch, measures: 25 t0 250 ft lbs, also 3/8 inch digital wrench, measures 5 to 80 foot pounds.
02. I don't use torx socket, but I use 19mm 12pt Socket 1/2 inch drive,

I need for advise, I was thinking to buy this Torque Multiplier Power wrench to remove the bolt, to solve the problem?
Maximum 1,100 foot pound.

Do you think, I should get the uni-extender too from It looks useful tools too.

Thanks a lot for your best effort to help me, and I am really appreciate. and I am still waiting my 6 ton press, to arrive, but by reading the scary highlights.
I should need the 20 ton press. Oh well?
Thanks again, your information really help to solve my issue. Take care, btw I love the foods in your country.

 

Hi John,

According to the parts list provide by our Guru Mr K.
The bolt #1 is item 60 A 000 990 75 03 in the Xentry Portal pdf
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/feb...n-9703616.html
This is a Torx not a hexagon bolt.

A 12 point 19mm socket is not suitable for high torque on a Torx, I have such hybrid socket too from Jonnesway called Super Tech. Avoid 12 points for high torque work even on hexagon bolt/nut, they are neither there nor here, a jack of all trade, master of none.
I do not know the size of bolt #1 is item 60 A 000 990 75 03 , but I got this Torx set a long time a go from Amazon , but now not in stock at Amazon, see this availability : https://www.tooldiscounter.com/produ...-otc5900a-plus
When u play with MB cars, a Torx set is a must. This bang for the buck OTC is not bad at all for us weekend warriors.
If you are based in USA or Europe, you should be fine as buying most things are easy and ready stock. For me I got to import unique tools from USA or Europe. I mean unique for my market but common for USA / EUROPE .. sad.

Let me show you why a Torx bolt is way more superior than a hexagon one, based on you having a proper Torx tool yah.
https://rtstools.com/why-torx-bolts-...rounding%20out.

The torque multiplier you showed is a 3.3 to 1. I never used such multiplier but 160 NM + 90 degrees is still do able without that torque multiplier because you have good working space and your legs muscle can handle that amount.
Opening that #1 bolt will be a bit more painful ...yes
Start at 3:12 If I were you doing a wheel bearing, I would buy that torque multiplier, because I like to have unique tools like that.

As for the press, I do not have enough experience to comment, but bigger power is a good bonus for any hydraulic pressure tool.
What you can do to ease the removal and insertion of new bearing is apply dry ice to the bearing to shrink it a bit, assuming it is not rusty and whatnot.
I never tried liquid nitrogen, but I think it is too cold and may cause some sort of weakening/embrittle.
https://www.gasparini.com/en/blog/me...-temperatures/
https://sciencing.com/dry-ice-vs-liq...n-6149385.html
You can also apply heat to the steering knuckle to expand it a bit, but that is your call.

Since you got to also remove ball joints when removing the steering knuckle, you must get ball joint special tools too, if you do not have them yet.
Depending on the orientation of where the nut of the ball joints are heading to, free space or crodwded space, you will need at least these :
For free space https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonnesway-A...-/113902212798
Tight space https://www.carid.com/performance-to...pn-w83022.html
Fork , multi purpose assist:
When you remove a ball joint, keep the nut in place while being un-threaded 3mm is enough, do not remove the nut completely.
Upon release, the taper shape of the ball joint neck/shoulder is a strong compression region and will release with a loud POP !! and may send your tool flying, if you do not retain the nut.

As with most MB parts love for Torx, its ball joint shaft need male torx to hold it in place while being tightened up to a point, so you need to buy these :
Wiha is a very good brand, very high precision.

For pressing OUT and IN, the wheel bearing, you need to be VERY CAREFUL. You need to have the correct push adapter size and thickness, otherwise your bearing will be damaged in no time during use. Pushing IN is the high risk.
Remember, bearing can only be pushed IN at its exterior/outer diameter shell/ring.
Dang, good think I found the video above, I did not know some bearing has the built in magnet for the ABS wheel sensor, so installation orientation need to be correct. Circlip installation need proper orientation too. Nice.
You best check your bearing, circlip and ABS sensor, if those 2 cautions are the case for yours. The AR33.20-P-0315SYZ Remove/install wheel hub and double-row angular-contact ball bearing 19.06.2018 .pdf does not mention bearing installation orientation.

Share with us full documentation of your progress yah, so others can learn from your experience.

I love spicy Indonesian food , yum yum. How about u ?

Happy tinkering John.

 

For the axle nut, I don't think it was a 19. I used this set I got from sears a while back, it was on sale at the time at around $20. There's no 19 in the set. I think it was an E24 but don't quote me on that.

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-13-p...p-00949295000P

You should probably invest in an an impact gun. Mechanic took it off with no problems with a regular small air impact gun. There's lots of cordless ones out there that are about the same.

 

Thank you so much for your generosity and kindly heart to have best advise for me.

Yes, its for sure that screw is a Torx bolt. and I am great to know, I should use female torx plus and never use the 19mm 12pts socket, especially to remove a high torque super tight boll.Thanks Sir.
I totally agreed with you, I should get your recommendation tools "OTC MASTER TORX SET". while the one I have now, Torx Set (not Torx Plus), its only up to E18.
But this finish this weekend project, I love to have that OTC torx plus set. to add the tools into my inventory, and the price is quite reasonable. tools with high performance tools. If I know this kind of tools, I should get it much earlier.
Btw 2 years ago, I replaced the all break pads (front + rear) and also the rotors (front + rear) too, the only hard time for me, when I was removing the rotors, as for the brake pads, it quite simple.

It seems, there are many tools that I don't have in order to remove ball joint, and this "hub and bearing wheel" removing is quite complicated, not as simple as complete brakes replacement, and I am pretty sure that my skill and knowledge is not good enough to replace this hub and bearing wheel.
Do you think, it better for me, just bring it to my local mechanic to do this job? thanks you in advance.
And I will take your advise if I should go ahead, or just let local mechanic to earn the business?

I saw this video, how he replaced the front bearing on Mercedes M W163, not W212, but the procedure looks the same to me.

Yes, I love and miss Indonesian food, beautiful country, when I was in Bali, I went to Jimbaran area, to enjoy the fresh seafood BBQ, that's one of my best food I have ever had in my life and too bad, I don't really like spicy food, sorry and thanks for your advice.

 

Yes you are right It isn't 19 bolt, its Torx for sure, but in maybe E24 to remove that bolt, because I don't have the female torx E24 yet. my set is only up to E18 (craftsman set tools)
I have craftsman impact driver and impact wrench too / 18 volts, but I don't think, I will use impact wrench to remove that screw/bolt, I will try my best to remove it with breaker bar first.
Thanks.

 

Hi John,
If you dont feel up to the task for front wheel bearing replacement on a 4-matic due to either lack of experience and/or lacking of other supporting tools, then I think going to your regular mechanic is a good choice.
If you want to learn how to do it for knowledge sake, hang around the workshop while they are doing it.

 

I will take your advice and I think, that's the best advise for me as my lack of experience and also lacking of other supporting tools. thanks you for kind help and generous heart. Thanks you Sir

 

Where can I buy wheel hub with bearing pressed in already? Thanks

 

The usual suspects like rockauto, autozone comes to mind.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1636&jsn=450

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1636&jsn=454

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...01/1058060_0_0