Disable traction control ?
I have been doing the 9-point procedure with the buttons on the left side of the steering wheel to turn off EDC, but that doesn't actually disable it. At BEST it may dial it back some,
The TC still comes on and spoils the party when I try accelerating hard.
I think I'm getting wheel-spin from the fronts when shifting into both second and third gears.
- before turning off ignition, navigate to the "mileage screen" (make sure any errors are reset)
- turn off key and close door
- do not touch any pedals or buttons other than descibed next
- put key in ignition
- turn to position1
- press and hold "answer" followed by "ok" hold both keys for 3 seconds, and a new menu appear, choose "roller test"
- press "Ok" to enable
- turn on ignition




I have been doing the 9-point procedure with the buttons on the left side of the steering wheel to turn off EDC, but that doesn't actually disable it. At BEST it may dial it back some,
The TC still comes on and spoils the party when I try accelerating hard.
I think I'm getting wheel-spin from the fronts when shifting into both second and third gears.
In my 2010 E550 I have a button for this right under the hazard blinker button in the middle of the dash.
in my previous 2011 E350 I had to disable ESP thru the cluster menu, like I have it in my 2013 S550 also.
On both cars traction control is OFF completely when ESP is disabled. Can't have it OFF in rain. Car would easily spin rear wheel and take me off the road. Wheels spin quite easily on dry road too with it disabled especially on the S550 with the twin turbo engine.
in my previous 2011 E350 I had to disable ESP thru the cluster menu, like I have it in my 2013 S550 also.
On both cars traction control is OFF completely when ESP is disabled. Can't have it OFF in rain. Car would easily spin rear wheel and take me off the road. Wheels spin quite easily on dry road too with it disabled especially on the S550 with the twin turbo engine.
Yes, I have ESP disable in my cluster menu. But disabling it DOES NOT disable TC. It just dials it back slightly. A launch or a hard 1-2 shift will still set off the yellow triangle when the front tires start to spin, and kill power. Often violently, with my head slamming forward.




Yes, I have ESP disable in my cluster menu. But disabling it DOES NOT disable TC. It just dials it back slightly. A launch or a hard 1-2 shift will still set off the yellow triangle when the front tires start to spin, and kill power. Often violently, with my head slamming forward.
And in my car the TC able/disable is a button right below the hazard light button.
Yes, I have ESP disable in my cluster menu. But disabling it DOES NOT disable TC. It just dials it back slightly. A launch or a hard 1-2 shift will still set off the yellow triangle when the front tires start to spin, and kill power. Often violently, with my head slamming forward.
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Looks like I don;t have a 5 or a 15. And 1 and 20 are both pretty big fuses. 25 and 40 amp respectively.
Any ideas?
Of the 8 listed, many also have other uses. Do we use those for process of elimination?
1 25A
6 10A.... Engine Electronics. Fuel pump. Starter.
13 7.5A. Fanfare Horn. Headlamp Flasher. Multi-function Steering wheel. Turn Signal lamps, Windshield wipers front.
14 7.5A
16 5.0A.. Telephone System.
20 40A
21 7.5A.. Airbag System. Child seat recognition. Brake lights, Glove Comp light.
73 ??A... Automatic Transmission. Diagnostic Socket. (This fuse is not under the hood)
#20 is a 40A, and I gotta believe that powers the ABS pump? #1 is also pretty huge for a circuit that senses tire slip using already installed systems.
So does that mean it's #14 or #16?
Last edited by Duckstu; Aug 24, 2022 at 08:36 AM.




when you can do is disconnect your wheel speed sensor, thatll also replicated dyno mode but will keep your braking power where it needs to be.
when you can do is disconnect your wheel speed sensor, thatll also replicated dyno mode but will keep your braking power where it needs to be.
ABS gets disabled and the light goes on in the dash, and event the power steering is affected. The variable PS seems to stay on low boost, like when you're at highway speeds. So steering at low speeds takes more effort.
I think your idea of wheel speed sensors is on the same track as what I've been devising.
I imagine a small relay, where the TC computer sees the rear wheel speeds sensors outputs for both front and rear wheels when the relay is engaged.
So when the relay is engaged, any spinning front tires would be ignored.
Ideally the relay's coil wire would be connected to a push-button that when pressed, would hold the relay in for 5 sec or so. Momentary push-button is easier to find I suppose. Press as you are about to launch, and once the car has shifted into second, you can let go.
Here's my high-tech drawing using Paint.
So when the red relay things swing down, the TC Computer would see the rear sensors outputs in both it's front and rear inputs.
.
.
Last edited by Duckstu; Aug 24, 2022 at 12:42 PM.




ABS gets disabled and the light goes on in the dash, and event the power steering is affected. The variable PS seems to stay on low boost, like when you're at highway speeds. So steering at low speeds takes more effort.
I think your idea of wheel speed sensors is on the same track as what I've been devising.
I imagine a small relay, where the TC computer sees the rear wheel speeds sensors outputs for both front and rear wheels when the relay is engaged.
So when the relay is engaged, any spinning front tires would be ignored.
Ideally the relay's coil wire would be connected to a push-button that when pressed, would hold the relay in for 5 sec or so. Momentary push-button is easier to find I suppose. Press as you are about to launch, and once the car has shifted into second, you can let go.
Here's my high-tech drawing using Paint.
So when the red relay things swing down, the TC Computer would see the rear sensors outputs in both it's front and rear inputs.
.
.


