Front Brakes - Has anyone tried cryo treated rotors?
I'm told they're indestructible and worth the extra cost. Has anyone here tried them?

Also FCPEuro has a lifetime warranty on their parts so buying the rotors from them would mean you can just get another set when they wear out for free, just pay shipping.
Personally I think a marketing ploy to charge more.
Ask them how much stopping distance it will remove versus stock on your model car using your pads.
What happens when they get red hot from a panic stop? does all this cyro cooling mumbo jumbo go away since you not HEAT TREATED the rotors?
How many more miles do they last?
they need to provide actual numbers from testing...
Ask them how much stopping distance it will remove versus stock on your model car using your pads.
What happens when they get red hot from a panic stop? does all this cyro cooling mumbo jumbo go away since you not HEAT TREATED the rotors?
How many more miles do they last?
they need to provide actual numbers from testing...
1. Stopping distance isn't the problem they're solving.
2. The cryo process includes heat tempering, so they'll be far more stable at high temperatures than regular cast rotors, as the atomic level structure of the metal is permanently changed.
3. They last about 3 times as long, per the tests I've read.
BUT,.. it would hammer through rotors. Like once a year.
So I tried the Cryo ones from the same manufacturer,.. and they lasted at least 3 years (I sold the car,.. and the brakes were still great, so I can't say how much longer, but CERTAINLY worth the extra $20 or whatever).
Unfortunately, they always seem to be offered on "high-carbon" rotors,.. and those are the ones that rust solid brown in 20 min when you wash your car. And I don't care for that. You know,.. you come home from work in the rain,.. and the next morning you back out of the garage and the brakes make that grinding sound as the rust gets scraped off?
If you can find cryo without the high-carbon,.. I'd jump on it.
My E400 just rolled 40K and 4 years.... no issues yet.
I just have not had in my driving career 38yrs a car that needed rotors so much I was worried about them lasting longer.
Heck I care more about the pads lasting longer on some beasts in the past but...
If I can replace the pads after a boat load of miles and leave rotors I am happy...
2 sets of pad per rotor life to me is all I need as a minimum; I have done 3 sets once but that was on a Clunky SUV with crappy stopping distance.
I replace rotors if not true or thickness below manufacturer limit.
So again why do I need these to last longer if they last long enough now?
If you buy these are you replacing the rotor when new pads are needed??
I am all for peeps spending their money and keeping the economy rolling I am just looking for a good reason on this one as I just cannot see one.
Just trying to learn so I can make informed choice later in life
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Our E350 had a complete front brake job with pads/rotors at CPO process around 29,000 miles. I'm not sure if it "needed" it or not. I have never felt like the car needed "more" in terms of braking ability. Our Macan has much larger rotors and 6-piston fixed calipers.. I'm sure in a track battle, this would be better, but daily driving I can't tell a difference in abilities with the Benz running Continentals and the Porsche running Michelins. Now, the Macan setup is more attractive.. but I'm not willing to spend a ton of money on attractive brakes.
Our E350 had a complete front brake job with pads/rotors at CPO process around 29,000 miles. I'm not sure if it "needed" it or not. I have never felt like the car needed "more" in terms of braking ability.
My E550 has a Stage 2 flash (550 hp / 650 ft lbs),.... and I find I occasionally have to use the brakes fairly hard. Can't say for sure why.

I bought the wife a '17 S550 with the same engine,... and stock the front brakes on those supposedly need replacement as soon as 16,000 miles. Hers has 12,000 on it,.. and the front brake rotors already have a noticeable lip on the outside. And she drives SLOW. Just a function of it being a 4,850 lb car I guess.
ARE ALL ROTORS FOR MERCEDES LEFT SIDE ROTORS?
I just received new Zimmerman front rotors,.. and they are directional (I.E. the vanes on the inside that are not straight,.. but rather curve in one direction,.. meaning they will flow more cooling air when installed on the left side of the car than they will on the right side.
Is this normal? I've never seen that in all my years.
Usually the curved vanes are different for each side, and re labeled as directional, with L or R stickerts on them. .And on non-directional rotors,.. the vanes go straight out from the center,.. so they flow the same air regardless of what side they are installed on.




Quick story; I bought Zimmerman rotors from a Benz site, first time they were all four wrong, correct part #'s on box, second time two were right, other two different from the first shipment but still wrong!
I gave up and ordered from the Benz parts place.I agree, they sent you two lefts.
Well,.. I just checked my wife's 2017 S550, shich has drilled rotors that look exactly like the ones on my E550,.. and they do the same thing.
And with 10,500 miles on the car when I bought it this Summer,... I'm certain they're still the ones Merc put on it at the fcatory. I don't think the wheels have ever been off the car. And her rotors are like mine. The holes both aim one way, as do the vanes inside. So on the left side, the vanes are aiding the centrifugal force in pumping air through the rotor,.. and on the right the vane direction is fighting the centrifugal force.
I'm sure the centrifugal force is gonna win here,.. but the vanes going the wrong way means less air will pump through the rotor on the right than on the left.
This just seems to be a Merc thing. Never seen it done before. Normally there's warnings on brake-disk packaging to make sure this never happens. And Merc does it from the factory.
So odd.
ARE ALL ROTORS FOR MERCEDES LEFT SIDE ROTORS?
I just received new Zimmerman front rotors,.. and they are directional (I.E. the vanes on the inside that are not straight,.. but rather curve in one direction,.. meaning they will flow more cooling air when installed on the left side of the car than they will on the right side.
Is this normal? I've never seen that in all my years.
I skipped Cryo treated mainly due to timing - they're a month out and I want to get this done sooner - these seemed like the next best option: https://www.buybrakes.com/mercedes-b...-no-warp-rotor
I'm doing these pads: https://www.buybrakes.com/mercedes-b...mic-brake-pads

I don't really notice any difference between our cars despite the huge difference in size of the brake rotors or calipers. Now my W203 was ridiculously over-"braked". 189hp I4 and it had 13.6" front cross-drilled rotors (this is larger than anything on an E350) and fixed, twin piston front calipers. They used the C32 setup back then on the sport packaged C230s. I loved the way it looked, but had to replace them every 30k miles.





I don't really notice any difference between our cars despite the huge difference in size of the brake rotors or calipers. Now my W203 was ridiculously over-"braked". 189hp I4 and it had 13.6" front cross-drilled rotors (this is larger than anything on an E350) and fixed, twin piston front calipers. They used the C32 setup back then on the sport packaged C230s. I loved the way it looked, but had to replace them every 30k miles.
And yes, you would be able to tell the difference, it's a large enough margin.
Update: Wife says the brakes are more "Grabby" this is a sophisticated engineering term.
If you would like an actual measurement {of the stopping distance, LOL} I will do that when it's nice out, streets are white with salt and it's snowing, so the blue car stays garaged!
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Dec 31, 2020 at 10:01 AM. Reason: update




And with 10,500 miles on the car when I bought it this Summer,... I'm certain they're still the ones Merc put on it at the fcatory. I don't think the wheels have ever been off the car. And her rotors are like mine. The holes both aim one way, as do the vanes inside. So on the left side, the vanes are aiding the centrifugal force in pumping air through the rotor,.. and on the right the vane direction is fighting the centrifugal force.
I'm sure the centrifugal force is gonna win here,.. but the vanes going the wrong way means less air will pump through the rotor on the right than on the left.
This just seems to be a Merc thing. Never seen it done before. Normally there's warnings on brake-disk packaging to make sure this never happens. And Merc does it from the factory.
So odd.
Yes I'm wrong, wife just got home and left rotor leads with the inside hole and right leads with the outside, mine were done at the dealer a few moths ago, so unless they used aftermarket parts which I doubt, both rotors are drilled the same, Duh..
Last edited by pierrejoliat; Dec 31, 2020 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Wrong




The Integra was basically an overweight Honda Civic, with a twin-cam motor, and woefully undersized brakes.
Prior to going to the cryo rotors, I would warp a set of rotors in 2-3 sessions (30minutes each).
After swapping to the cryo rotors, I could get a full season out of a set of rotors (combined with PFC Red pads)
So, yes, they do perform as advertised.
However, the W212 does not have undersized brakes (especially at US speeds), so I don't believe that they're required.
I swapped out our rotors with the pads at around 85k miles, but only as a preventive measure - they weren't cracked or warped.
That being said, you're not driving a Benz because you wanted to the cheapest car you could find.
So if having a better widget installed provides more confidence/reassurance, then I say go for it (but it's not really necessary).
On my side I have a local Cryo service that charges me $60 to do (2) rotors - since my guy is local it drop-off-pickup so no added shipping charge.
Actually - I have Cryo'd quite a few misc things since mu guy and reasonably priced especially on smaller items - a great thing has been my Cryo'd Lawn Mower blades - and a whole slew of drill-bits - also did some of my "working" chef's knives..




rotor wear is heavily a function of your driving style and terrain. I drive a lot in the mountains...
ARE ALL ROTORS FOR MERCEDES LEFT SIDE ROTORS?
I just received new Zimmerman front rotors,.. and they are directional (I.E. the vanes on the inside that are not straight,.. but rather curve in one direction,.. meaning they will flow more cooling air when installed on the left side of the car than they will on the right side.
Is this normal? I've never seen that in all my years.
Usually the curved vanes are different for each side, and re labeled as directional, with L or R stickerts on them. .And on non-directional rotors,.. the vanes go straight out from the center,.. so they flow the same air regardless of what side they are installed on.
saw a cls when doing balancing on my tires at a tire shop.. not sure if his were original but they also looked the same way.. like someone mentioned maybe stoptech has it differently but ever since i got brembo i haven't had any issues even though the are all left side looks like


