Matthew Bryan

so I parked up the 2012 w212 and couple days later came to use it but although it will start and most everything seems to work inside it won't move from park when I use the column transmission shifter.
cruise control and speedtronic faults show up on dash ...disconnected battery for a few hours and tested battery voltage ..dormant 12.3 v and 14v when running engine.
what can I check from here ?
Auxillary battery was also good
purchased a new brake switch which made no difference
wondering about the relay in the pre fuse box next to the battery in front engine compartment.. ...Help

bmwpowere36m3

Can you scan for codes? If not, consider investing in scanner for MB specific codes which can be had for <$200 (iCarsoft). It’ll help with future maintenance and repairs. Nowadays almost or more important than hard tools.

Should be sticky requiring them with posts

KEY08

“cruise control and speedtronic faults show up on dash”

what do do you mean faults?

Do you mean a warning that these are not available? They are disabled?

If so, that usually means a low battery state of charge. A 12.3v SOC is a battery at 70%

Matthew Bryan

Yes they are not available.....maybe pull the battery and charge it up to see if that’s the issue..what will a good battery read when engine not running ?

KEY08

I would do that and see if it helps. Fully charged battery is 12.7

bmwpowere36m3

You don't need to pull the battery to charge it, but when checking the voltage make sure the key is not installed and the car has been off for a while for the most accurate read... otherwise if any modules or components are ON, they'll draw down the voltage.

konigstiger

As suggested, best to pull codes. If battery is fine worst case scenario it may be Intelligent Servo Module (ISM) mounted @ transmission, check f88 @ trunk fuse panel. If it is ISM this is a TRP part only serviced by dealer or appropriately licensed independent.

Matthew Bryan

dont have a code reader
charged batteries ,both good after leaving overnight and both good charging engine running,

switched out the refuse f32
so now im down to transmission module
if a front wheel abs sensor gets wet after pressure washing can this effect the car as I seem to remember we pressure washed the wheels only hours prior to starting it and having the dash light up like a xmas tree

bmwpowere36m3

I highly doubt it, if the water was confined to the wheel/well area... you've been given advice (multiple times), either have someone scan it for ~ $100 or buy a $200 scanner so you can diagnose at your leisure and in the future. If you prefer a wild-goose chase... then I don't have more advise, best of luck.

Matthew Bryan

ok so I wiggle the front wheel sensor wire an it all went back to normal......happy days ...for about a minute ,was able to select reverse forward etc..no lights on ash but minute later same ol story ..purchase Bosch wheel sensor an replace it with no luck ...time for the garage

Matthew Bryan

total cost of checking these things ..time an £18 for the fitted wheel sensor..other parts refunded.

Matthew Bryan

ok tried resetting throttle position an learning mode for transmission...



battery front ..main battery reads...... 12.34 v engine off and 14.79 v engine running

battery rear ..auxillary battery reads..13.20 v engine off and 14.83 v engine running



do these voltages look healthy

bmwpowere36m3

No main battery sounds dead.. charge it and see if condition improves. Otherwise, it's likely due for replacement.

*edit* appears you already charged it prior... replace the battery.

Matthew Bryan

im not sure what your trying to say .."advice multiple times" ive tried everything suggested and more ..the scan threw up multiple codes like about 40 , obviously something else is causing all the systems to go haywire and report faults.... if people had easy access to scanners etc..maybe they wouldn't need this forum..its here precisely to help those of us who wish to attempt our own repair so please dont try to deter people with flippant comments.its unnecessary.

nota_amg

Like BMW said, you probably need a new battery, maybe two. It is very common to have multiple gremlins due to low voltage. More than likely, your starter is drawing more amperage than the battery can supply due to an internal short, drawing the battery down when starting causing a low voltage situation, that's why there are 40+ codes. Best thing is to pull the batteries and have then both load tested. Having the proper voltage is only part of the equation. You can check this with a multi-meter on the battery posts when starting, should not drop below 10.0V. You can also view this in the cluster using "Dyno Mode". One bad(shorted) battery can make it look like everything is okay, essentially "hiding" the problem.


Good luck

bmwpowere36m3

First, YOU implied that you didn't have a code reader and gave NO indication that you had the vehicle scanned. If you had said earlier, "hey, I had it scanned and it came back with 40 codes... should I post them up, etc...". or "hey, I got a couple codes back". Each would warrant different responses.

Second, MANY people have scanners as they are very affordable... no reason not to have one in this day and age, given the amount of "insight" it can provide vs. HOURS of diagnoses. Third, even with a scanner there is no guarantee one will fix issues, as data needs to be interpreted (like your 40 code situation), and a common trap of those you read codes and launch the parts cannon. Whereas if you came back and said it showed a couple codes, totally different story.

I personally feel like, many users on forums just want an answer... like I have these symptoms, what should I replace? If it only were so easy... sometime yes, often times no.

Mud

Whenever I see a mass of codes, dash lights and general craziness, its very often a single module that's not communicating on the network, so the rest of the connected modules don't know what to do. So I start looking at a wiring diagram to see what's on that particular circuit, then see if I can eliminate modules that are still on line, then work my way to see its it's circuit or CANBUS issue.
The other part of this is as was suggested - look for wiring damage from rodents, chafing, or even a blown fuse in that particular circuit.
IMO if someone is interested in DIY on these cars, a scantool and WIS/EPC is a necessity to supplement internet how-to and guesses, or just take it to a shop. My current WIS/EPC is a 4-cd eBay version all of about 15 bucks. Takes about 64gb on my garage laptop and works perfectly. My Autel MD808Pro was two hundred and something dollars but it can look at all modules, not just generic obd data. You can blow through that cost in a heartbeat getting a shop diagnosis.
​​​​​​Takes some cost and effort to learn to use the tools, and it's ongoing. But worth it, most of the diagnosis learning can apply to many other vehicles.

Matthew Bryan

yes thank you ..at the time my scanner software was down..it is working now ,ive used a scanner for years ....but for it to throw so many errors is odd and when wiggling the nearside wheel speed sensor everything cleared on the dash for about a minute or two before I again ha the same symptoms..I too would suspect the battery but having previously charged it up and car starting so easily im finding it difficult to believe thats its the battery ..I can get one tomorrow

Matthew Bryan

Im sorry I only had my scanner working since yesterday and should have explained this..I use Delphi 150 e because it is relatively cheap and I am able to test most of the components on ABC Mercedes suspension which is a pain. anyway ......I will pull the batteries and get them tested ...

Mud

Wiggling the speed sensor to temporarily stop the lights/codes is a huge clue. Check that circuit, including wiring/connectors.

bmwpowere36m3

Well you measured 12.3 VDC on the battery with the key off... so either the battery needs to be charged or its a sign its weak. You charged it prior, so unless you're doing a TON of diag with the key ON and not keeping the car on a charger that could be the issue.

It isn't uncommon for the car to pull in excess of 20A with just the key ON. Part of the reason I'm putting together a 60+ amp power supply for extended diag sessions as my Pro-Logix charger/PS is not keeping up (20A PS mode).

Matthew Bryan

so I put in a new battery higher amp and ah value an unfortunately all the signs are still there

my question ..really has anyone had all these error codes as a result of a wheel sensor or maybe a single failure of a module...I can not believe I am the first to experience this

Mud

Yes. Really. It happens.
Example is wheel sensor data is used by the ECU, steering angle sensor, ABS, transmission control module.....

You just posted that when you monkey with the wheel sensor everything goes nuts, then you ask if the sensor might be a problem.

I've tried to give you some module/circuit direction on diag that you ignore. What answer is it you want?
Carry on with the parts cannon.

bmwpowere36m3

So I admit I brushed that off, but I would have myself in the moment... I try to use a pressure washer carefully and never directly blast electrical components. Most, if not all, exterior electrical connectors are sealed so some water "shouldn't" affect them if they are not compromised. I've never had issues... knock on wood.

What if you were to disconnect the wheel speed sensor, blow off the vehicle-side of the connector (focusing on pins/sockets to ensure no water inside), disconnect the main battery for 10 minutes... come back, do not reconnect the speed sensor, reconnect the main battery, scan for codes, clear codes, scan again.

If the issue persists, then I would perform continuity checks of the circuit and check for shorts.

Matthew Bryan

oh dear its so easy to upset people here.
im sorry I didn't reply directly to your comment about testing the circuit..
I did test the wheel sensor but I am not able to get leads on the two pin plug coming from the chassis ..its buried at an angle in the side wall. I will try again when I have some dry weather..I work on a public road not a drive way so its more difficult to get properly under the car....wiggling the sensor wire hasn't changed anything since it briefly worked all those days ago.
I might add that ive spent a grand total of £18 on a Bosch wheel sensor and used a new battery that was fitted to my cl500 ..not really a cannon of parts but hey ho..my dads 90 today and I don't think he's changed anything other than windscreen wipers in all those years of driving.