E class w212 2012 stuck in park ..column shifter
cruise control and speedtronic faults show up on dash ...disconnected battery for a few hours and tested battery voltage ..dormant 12.3 v and 14v when running engine.
what can I check from here ?
Auxillary battery was also good
purchased a new brake switch which made no difference
wondering about the relay in the pre fuse box next to the battery in front engine compartment.. ...Help
Should be sticky requiring them with posts
what do do you mean faults?
Do you mean a warning that these are not available? They are disabled?
If so, that usually means a low battery state of charge. A 12.3v SOC is a battery at 70%
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charged batteries ,both good after leaving overnight and both good charging engine running,
switched out the refuse f32
so now im down to transmission module
if a front wheel abs sensor gets wet after pressure washing can this effect the car as I seem to remember we pressure washed the wheels only hours prior to starting it and having the dash light up like a xmas tree
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charged batteries ,both good after leaving overnight and both good charging engine running,
switched out the refuse f32
so now im down to transmission module
if a front wheel abs sensor gets wet after pressure washing can this effect the car as I seem to remember we pressure washed the wheels only hours prior to starting it and having the dash light up like a xmas tree
battery front ..main battery reads...... 12.34 v engine off and 14.79 v engine running
battery rear ..auxillary battery reads..13.20 v engine off and 14.83 v engine running
do these voltages look healthy
*edit* appears you already charged it prior... replace the battery.
Good luck
Last edited by nota_amg; Feb 1, 2021 at 12:44 PM.
Second, MANY people have scanners as they are very affordable... no reason not to have one in this day and age, given the amount of "insight" it can provide vs. HOURS of diagnoses. Third, even with a scanner there is no guarantee one will fix issues, as data needs to be interpreted (like your 40 code situation), and a common trap of those you read codes and launch the parts cannon. Whereas if you came back and said it showed a couple codes, totally different story.
I personally feel like, many users on forums just want an answer... like I have these symptoms, what should I replace? If it only were so easy... sometime yes, often times no.
The other part of this is as was suggested - look for wiring damage from rodents, chafing, or even a blown fuse in that particular circuit.
IMO if someone is interested in DIY on these cars, a scantool and WIS/EPC is a necessity to supplement internet how-to and guesses, or just take it to a shop. My current WIS/EPC is a 4-cd eBay version all of about 15 bucks. Takes about 64gb on my garage laptop and works perfectly. My Autel MD808Pro was two hundred and something dollars but it can look at all modules, not just generic obd data. You can blow through that cost in a heartbeat getting a shop diagnosis.
Takes some cost and effort to learn to use the tools, and it's ongoing. But worth it, most of the diagnosis learning can apply to many other vehicles.
Second, MANY people have scanners as they are very affordable... no reason not to have one in this day and age, given the amount of "insight" it can provide vs. HOURS of diagnoses. Third, even with a scanner there is no guarantee one will fix issues, as data needs to be interpreted (like your 40 code situation), and a common trap of those you read codes and launch the parts cannon. Whereas if you came back and said it showed a couple codes, totally different story.
I personally feel like, many users on forums just want an answer... like I have these symptoms, what should I replace? If it only were so easy... sometime yes, often times no.
Second, MANY people have scanners as they are very affordable... no reason not to have one in this day and age, given the amount of "insight" it can provide vs. HOURS of diagnoses. Third, even with a scanner there is no guarantee one will fix issues, as data needs to be interpreted (like your 40 code situation), and a common trap of those you read codes and launch the parts cannon. Whereas if you came back and said it showed a couple codes, totally different story.
I personally feel like, many users on forums just want an answer... like I have these symptoms, what should I replace? If it only were so easy... sometime yes, often times no.
It isn't uncommon for the car to pull in excess of 20A with just the key ON. Part of the reason I'm putting together a 60+ amp power supply for extended diag sessions as my Pro-Logix charger/PS is not keeping up (20A PS mode).
my question ..really has anyone had all these error codes as a result of a wheel sensor or maybe a single failure of a module...I can not believe I am the first to experience this
Example is wheel sensor data is used by the ECU, steering angle sensor, ABS, transmission control module.....
You just posted that when you monkey with the wheel sensor everything goes nuts, then you ask if the sensor might be a problem.
I've tried to give you some module/circuit direction on diag that you ignore. What answer is it you want?
Carry on with the parts cannon.
What if you were to disconnect the wheel speed sensor, blow off the vehicle-side of the connector (focusing on pins/sockets to ensure no water inside), disconnect the main battery for 10 minutes... come back, do not reconnect the speed sensor, reconnect the main battery, scan for codes, clear codes, scan again.
If the issue persists, then I would perform continuity checks of the circuit and check for shorts.
Example is wheel sensor data is used by the ECU, steering angle sensor, ABS, transmission control module.....
You just posted that when you monkey with the wheel sensor everything goes nuts, then you ask if the sensor might be a problem.
I've tried to give you some module/circuit direction on diag that you ignore. What answer is it you want?
Carry on with the parts cannon.
im sorry I didn't reply directly to your comment about testing the circuit..
I did test the wheel sensor but I am not able to get leads on the two pin plug coming from the chassis ..its buried at an angle in the side wall. I will try again when I have some dry weather..I work on a public road not a drive way so its more difficult to get properly under the car....wiggling the sensor wire hasn't changed anything since it briefly worked all those days ago.
I might add that ive spent a grand total of £18 on a Bosch wheel sensor and used a new battery that was fitted to my cl500 ..not really a cannon of parts but hey ho..my dads 90 today and I don't think he's changed anything other than windscreen wipers in all those years of driving.
Last edited by Matthew Bryan; Feb 3, 2021 at 12:03 PM.


