How to do you disconnect Factory Sub?








Are you looking for this guy??
HOW do you remove all the inside to access the top deck ??
I want to have a look inside that module for loose power pins...









(Harmon Kardan black box to the right of the spare, and forward of my aux battery... on the sedans I've seen, the battery is on the front side, and the sub is behind it, but otherwise the same module).




That lone Amp only works the sub.
The collection of other speakers are powered from the main Amp unit at the left trunk side. It packs super fancy DSP processing. The Amp section shows integrated chips used instead of power transistors.




according to what I *think* is the right wiring diagram on WIS/ASRA (man, that thing is confusing to navigate), that woofer has TWO drivers inside, blue & brown/blue goes to one, and green & brown/green goes to the other. the brown/XXX wires are the + side, the solid wires are the - side. These wires come from the N40/9 rear woofer amplifier, pins 10,7,1,4 respectively.
per this diagram, that M40/9 rear woofer amp gets IN+ on pin 3, and IN- on pin 2, signal shield on pin 9, always-on power on pin 11, ground on pin 12, and an 'on' signal on pin 8. The IN + / - signals, and the On control signal all come from the main 'sound system control amplifier' N40/3
N40/3 in turn gets its input from the MOST digital media bus, which I believe is optical.
Last edited by Left Coast Geek; Jun 22, 2021 at 05:06 PM.
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You are correct, disconnecting it cleared up the distortion that I was hearing. And rest of the other speakers are seem to be working fine. Removing the rear deck to disconnect the connector seems to be a lot of work. Thanks
The one my 2012 and 2014, setup looks much different than what you show in the picture above. I like your setup especially the way it lifts up. Perhaps this was for the wagon only? Thanks
Last edited by a4ncar; Jun 22, 2021 at 10:03 PM.
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let me re-enumerate the pins on the sub amp for this per WIS...
N40/9 rear woofer amp...
- sub2+ - green (1.5)
- in- - brown
- in+ - white
- sub2- - brown/green (1.5)
- -nc-
- -nc-
- sub1- - brown/blue (1.5)
- turn on - black
- input shield
- sub1+ - blue (1.5)
- always power from fuse 69 - red/grey (2.5)
- ground - brown (2,5)
and ok, BZZZZZZ, the + and - on the speaker icons do NOT agree with the + and - on the subwoofer amplifier output, and this seems quite intentional.




You are correct, disconnecting it cleared up the distortion that I was hearing. And rest of the other speakers are seem to be working fine. Removing the rear deck to disconnect the connector seems to be a lot of work. Thanks
The one my 2012 and 2014, setup looks much different than what you show in the picture above. I like your setup especially the way it lifts up. Perhaps this was for the wagon only? Thanks
My free work around trick is to open the trunk side panel doors in hope to get more cooling.... including rear seat arm rest opening.
I am planning on visiting this woofer module between November - March knowing already based on main Amp...:
-- Heatsink surface was left un-machined 😅-- Coupling caps are only 16Volts (when car is supplies 14.9v + spikes!)
This Amp system was designed (16v caps) and built (bad heatsinks) to need repairs after abuse.
It's easy to make it work fine before it's fried: (Integrated Amps are non-replaceable 'cause unmarked unless you find a wizard) : keep audio down on FRI night like it's MON Am !!

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 23, 2021 at 12:57 AM.




Except now they are all Samsung. :-O








The limiting issue of poor thermal contact of power amplifier chips will remain (in cars affected by the batch of sick assemblies).
So the heat sink itself can be well cooled with fans but amplifiers chips may remain toasty.
Try not to stress your audio Amps with high outputs.






