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My E350 4Matic Wagon had a diagnosed communication problem with both rear ABS sensors, due to which it was capped at 38 mph and ABS and EPS were off because of these. I replaced the sensors and it goes without this speed limitation now.
I saw that ABS and EPS are controlled by the AUX Battery which I replaced, it was 9 years old. I also had some key recognizance problems because of that as well.
I also replaced the main battery, so both batteries are brand new.
Problem:
Car refuses to start. It seems like it's got enough juice. The key is recognized.
When I turn, nothing happens. It unlocks however the break pedal.
It warns me that ABS and EPS are deactivated.
It says don't forget your key
And lastly, if there is any help, the blue high beam light is ON in the dash (although it's not physically activated from the light controls).
My E350 4Matic Wagon had a diagnosed communication problem with both rear ABS sensors, due to which it was capped at 38 mph and ABS and EPS were off because of these. I replaced the sensors and it goes without this speed limitation now.
I saw that ABS and EPS are controlled by the AUX Battery which I replaced, it was 9 years old. I also had some key recognizance problems because of that as well.
I also replaced the main battery, so both batteries are brand new.
Problem:
Car refuses to start. It seems like it's got enough juice. The key is recognized.
When I turn, nothing happens. It unlocks however the break pedal.
It warns me that ABS and EPS are deactivated.
It says don't forget your key
And lastly, if there is any help, the blue high beam light is ON in the dash (although it's not physically activated from the light controls).
Any miracle RESET procedure?
Thank you all.
You're going to go around circles without a scanner... even with live codes it can still be a guessing game.
The easy reset you can try :
charge/float batteries
disconnect both bats for 5mn
scan the car OBDII
CLUES...:
Quote: "blue high beam light is ON in the dash (although it's not physically activated from the light controls)."
- - Sounds related to a damaged F-SAM or your iCluster bus not working... or simply a drained battery consistent with no start condition.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 29, 2021 at 03:22 PM.
Reason: quote in italics
Unfortunately I'm not equipped for codes
No. I verified, it'S very solid.
You REALLY should get a scanner owning any modern vehicle.
1 thing you can still do before getting one, find how to display car voltage on the cluster and observe it during starting procedure.
You REALLY should get a scanner owning any modern vehicle.
1 thing you can still do before getting one, find how to display car voltage on the cluster and observe it during starting procedure.
Unfortunately it does not work.
I bought a scanner, and I also borrowed one from a friend.
Both scanners indicate "turn ignition ON".
Can't read codes otherwise.
Which is my main problem
Careful, the scanner "turn the ignition on" means to have the key in the "ignition position" not the engine running
In your original post, you mentioned the key was recognized and I understood you can rotate the ignition to positions 1 and 2, correct? It just happens the car does not start, correct?
From the description sounds like ignition switch is having bad contacts. If the knob turns, the key recognition works.
I have $49 Autel knob, who makes nice troubleshooting page, showing each component status.
I found the culprit. The rechargeable AUX battery emptied itself inexplicably, although it was at 11.4V when I bought it. Also it seems it is not fed from the main battery in order to charge, at least not while the car isn't running. So it's either charged from the main batt when it runs or from the alternator.
Also the fuse on the AUX battery was done.
Thank you all.
Good thing to know: start is fully controlled by the AUX batt. If that's out, you can't start.
Last edited by Rodinal88; Oct 1, 2021 at 12:50 PM.
I found the culprit. The rechargeable AUX battery emptied itself inexplicably, although it was at 11.4V when I bought it. Also it seems it is not fed from the main battery in order to charge, at least not while the car isn't running. So it's either charged from the main batt when it runs or from the alternator.
Also the fuse on the AUX battery was done.
Thank you all.
Good thing to know: start is fully controlled by the AUX batt. If that's out, you can't start.
Your experience highlights why it is good practice to float both batteries... keeping voltage up with a (CTEK/Benz) smart charger will alleviate slow drain issues and prevent high charge rates.
The aux battery is charged by charging module and doesn't have direct connection to main charging system.
You did not say what MY you have, but if you have small aux battery in the dash, this is for emergencies only and it is charged only for short time after engine start, then disconnected from the system.
Strange the fuse burn in the process.
Either way, the battery that is disconnected from the system going down means the battery was bad. I had 2014 model with ECO battery sitting for long months and never charged AUX battery, not having any problems. My diesel restarted on 1st turn after sitting for 14 months.
Good to hear you got it solved.
I found the culprit. The rechargeable AUX battery emptied itself inexplicably, although it was at 11.4V when I bought it. Also it seems it is not fed from the main battery in order to charge, at least not while the car isn't running. So it's either charged from the main batt when it runs or from the alternator.
Also the fuse on the AUX battery was done.
Thank you all.
Good thing to know: start is fully controlled by the AUX batt. If that's out, you can't start.
Nice to hear you solved your problem.
Would you mind elaborating on which year is your car? Is the AUX battery behind the dash, or in the trunk?
For clarification, testing on my 2014 W212 (not S212) E350 shows the AUX battery is after the BCM (Battery Control Module seen it the picture from CaliBenz above) and it is isolated from the main circuit unless the BCM allows it. It is my understanding the main cable coming into the BCM is coming from the main battery, and the BCM output feeds the AUX only when "it pleases". If you measure the voltage between the AUX posts, you should measure @12.xV for a good battery, and once the car is running you will measure for a very short time 14.xV from the main+alternator, and then back to the 12.xV. Once the "brain of the charging system" decides to charge it, you will measure 14.x again. I have measured it after a short ride w/o turning the car off, i.e. park, open the trunk, and measured it. Once the car is turned off, the whole cycle starts all over again.
What I would be worried about, and would monitor, is the source of the blown fuse. Either there was a short during installation of the newer AUX battery (great! one-time event) , or the battery shorted itself (bad luck and drained ), or something else (not so great ).
First, on a YouTube video it mistakenly shows that the Wagons had the other kind of AUX Battery (with drilled terminals located on the longer side) and that's supposedly in the trunk (right-rear corner)
Apparently that's true for most Wagons, but not mine, probably because it has the Harman Kardon subwoofer taking up space.
So yeah, it's behind the dash, it's the batt with the two terminals located on the shorter side.
Easy job if you dismantle the cover above the pedals (it has 3 simple screws) because you can have one extra hand reaching from underneath.
I've seen a video with a guy doing it only from the side. It felt impossible to me.
In the pics:
the two possible kinds
Last edited by Rodinal88; Oct 1, 2021 at 03:14 PM.
Strange to hear that bad emergency battery disabled engine start, but several times I wonder what MB programmers smoke for breakfast, so nothing really surprising.
2016 E350 4Matic wagon, 2019 Ford Expedition, 2019 Chevy Bolt EV
fyi, 11,4 volts is a very deeply discharged lead acid battery. fully charged at room temps, it should be around 12.6 volts, anything below 12.0 is flat.
small aux battery in dash vs larger one in the trunk is a function fo whether or not your car has eco start. my 2016 wagon has the larger one in the back AND the hk subwoofer.
the battery and rear SAM are under that piece of molded carpet that is sitting on the spare in the pic.
fyi, 11,4 volts is a very deeply discharged lead acid battery. fully charged at room temps, it should be around 12.6 volts, anything below 12.0 is flat.
small aux battery in dash vs larger one in the trunk is a function fo whether or not your car has eco start. my 2016 wagon has the larger one in the back AND the hk subwoofer.
the battery and rear SAM are under that piece of molded carpet that is sitting on the spare in the pic.
Your tool holder is awesome compared to my plastic "rattle box". Is this a wagon special or the same in sedans after certain year?
I assume it has a plastic nut underneath to hold spare in place?
'11 E350 wagon has the styrofoam tool tray, wheel just sits in spare tire recess. '11 E550 has a plastic tool "bucket" that threads into spare tire floor tray.
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, or the battery shorted itself (bad luck and drained 
), or something else (not so great 
).
.
