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Hello, I have been looking to swap my w212 steering wheel. I finally bit the bullet and got a custom one from eBay. I validated all of the components between the wheels are compatible. However I am now at the final stage of swapping the PCB chip between the wheels. The new wheel has one of the 3 t20 bolts inside of it with possibly extra metal in the screw head. It looks like a defective bolt or possibly a tamper proof bolt. But my t20 security tool also does not work.
Thoughts on if this is normal and if I just don't have the right tool, or any suggestions on how to get this bolt out?
I was thinking of trying a series of small drill bits and try to bore it out, or possibly solder but it has minimal depth to try and get a firm bead on. Have not removed a bolt in a sensitive area like this before.
That problem bolt looks different that the other two, like there are openings between each tip of the star.
It also looks like the center of the star has broken at the tips and has risen up in the middle.
Could this be a special bolt that screws in with a special tool and makes the bolt not to be possible to open again? Like keep people from swapping parts between wheels?
Thank you!! I pressed hard with a t7 and it popped out the star metal and then t20 worked the way it was supposed to. There was definitely something wrong with the bolt, the star material was still stamped in head.
Got the new wheel installed but the horn and right paddle up don't work. Im hoping it was me not putting a wire back in tight enough.
At least it looks real pretty, also the wheel is straight but I have my car turned slightly in this picture
Last edited by Boarderjosh10; 05-08-2022 at 11:09 PM.
Thank you!! I pressed hard with a t7 and it popped out the star metal and then t20 worked the way it was supposed to. There was definitely something wrong with the bolt, the star material was still stamped in head.
Got the new wheel installed but the horn and right paddle up don't work. Im hoping it was me not putting a wire back in tight enough.
At least it looks real pretty, also the wheel is straight but I have my car turned slightly in this picture
Looks awesome! I actually had both of those exact same problems with mine when I installed it, and I still haven't figured out the horn issue. Luckily, I don't use it at all anyways so it doesn't bother me. The right paddle was the upper left two ping prong not making complete contact with the reciever all the time. I fixed it (a little ghetto I know) by jamming a small piece of paper above the housing to hold it in place. Havent had a problem since
The horn however, I could not figure out for the life of me. I pulled and replaced the fuse, it didn't do anything. I removed the airbag and pushed down the physical depressed for what (should) make(s) the horn go off, and nothing happened. I haven't been too bothered with it but if you're delving into it I wouldn't mind taking a crack at it again.
Edit: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...9921643846.MP4
Heres a video of the plate behind the airbag being depressed, the car was on. BE CAREFUL TO LEAVE THE AIRBAG PLUGGED IN WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED, or you will get an irreversible airbag code that can only be remove at the stealership (or so I've been told. I was not going to be the guinea pig to take the $500 diagnostics fee for this one)
Hello, I have been looking to swap my w212 steering wheel. I finally bit the bullet and got a custom one from eBay. I validated all of the components between the wheels are compatible. However I am now at the final stage of swapping the PCB chip between the wheels. The new wheel has one of the 3 t20 bolts inside of it with possibly extra metal in the screw head. It looks like a defective bolt or possibly a tamper proof bolt. But my t20 security tool also does not work.
Thoughts on if this is normal and if I just don't have the right tool, or any suggestions on how to get this bolt out?
I was thinking of trying a series of small drill bits and try to bore it out, or possibly solder but it has minimal depth to try and get a firm bead on. Have not removed a bolt in a sensitive area like this before.
I highlighted the bolt in yellow in the picture.
Yellow highlight is problem bolt
That isnt an OEM Bolt, no idea what or where its from. All the bolts should be the same (like the other 2 you have) this is universal 2012-2021
Looks awesome! I actually had both of those exact same problems with mine when I installed it, and I still haven't figured out the horn issue. Luckily, I don't use it at all anyways so it doesn't bother me. The right paddle was the upper left two ping prong not making complete contact with the reciever all the time. I fixed it (a little ghetto I know) by jamming a small piece of paper above the housing to hold it in place. Havent had a problem since
The horn however, I could not figure out for the life of me. I pulled and replaced the fuse, it didn't do anything. I removed the airbag and pushed down the physical depressed for what (should) make(s) the horn go off, and nothing happened. I haven't been too bothered with it but if you're delving into it I wouldn't mind taking a crack at it again.
Edit: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...9921643846.MP4
Heres a video of the plate behind the airbag being depressed, the car was on. BE CAREFUL TO LEAVE THE AIRBAG PLUGGED IN WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED, or you will get an irreversible airbag code that can only be remove at the stealership (or so I've been told. I was not going to be the guinea pig to take the $500 diagnostics fee for this one)
have you reajusted the contact plate? if the bolts on the plate are too loose the horn wont function properly or at all. bolts have to be cranked down
Edit: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...9921643846.MP4
Heres a video of the plate behind the airbag being depressed, the car was on. BE CAREFUL TO LEAVE THE AIRBAG PLUGGED IN WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED, or you will get an irreversible airbag code that can only be remove at the stealership (or so I've been told. I was not going to be the guinea pig to take the $500 diagnostics fee for this one)
I'm not sure why I would need to leave the car on for that fix. If I were to disconnect the battery and remove the airbag and wheel like when I did it the first time and check the tightness of the 3 t20 bolts that is what I am hoping.
horn doesn't work and + up shift doesn't work. Car automatically honked for a few seconds when I first tried starting up the car after the wheel swap. Also says lane assist is disabled which makes sense because I don't think my new wheel has the vibrate motor. Not a big deal since I hate lane assist vibration.
I'm thinking of messing with the pins I probably didn't push in the connector all of the way.
I'm not sure why I would need to leave the car on for that fix. If I were to disconnect the battery and remove the airbag and wheel like when I did it the first time and check the tightness of the 3 t20 bolts that is what I am hoping.
horn doesn't work and + up shift doesn't work. Car automatically honked for a few seconds when I first tried starting up the car after the wheel swap. Also says lane assist is disabled which makes sense because I don't think my new wheel has the vibrate motor. Not a big deal since I hate lane assist vibration.
I'm thinking of messing with the pins I probably didn't push in the connector all of the way.
Alot of the time if the horn is going off it means that something is either not connected or something is backwards.
Your N135 board is missing the horn pins, assuming your Plastic Base Assy of the N135 board is the same as mine.
Our N135 board is different, I do not have steering heater and shaker. But why are ur horn pins missing ?
All buttons at the steering wheel, including tranny pedal up/down and horn yada yada first communicate to N135 board.
From N135 board it is then using LIN networks talk to N80 steering Column.
No worry on the airbag reset, any decent Autel can remove the DTC, no need Xentry.
Your N135 board is missing the horn pins, assuming your Plastic Base Assy of the N135 board is the same as mine.
Our N135 board is different, I do not have steering heater and shaker. But why are ur horn pins missing ?
All buttons at the steering wheel, including tranny pedal up/down and horn yada yada first communicate to N135 board.
From N135 board it is then using LIN networks talk to N80 steering Column.
No worry on the airbag reset, any decent Autel can remove the DTC, no need Xentry.
Hello again S-Prihadi. It is again that I seek your guidance, as I know absolutely nothing about this. Below is all of the pictures I have taken while disassembling the steering wheel this morning, it seems our plastic assembly is different, and i could not find the specified copper connector pins on the backside of the assembly.
Just a note, this is not an OEM retrofit. I purchased it secondhand from another member here on the forum.
Edit: The part number for the assembly is from a W213. Am I screwed?
Horn is important, not only for us, but it can help others too. Example we can warn someone/pedestrian/biker on the road.
Say a child dashing out of his house in a housing complex to the road and you can help warn incoming traffic or child mother.
In Jakarta, having no horn is a NO NO NO hahahah. Too much crazies on the road.
Horn is important, not only for us, but it can help others too. Example we can warn someone/pedestrian/biker on the road.
Say a child dashing out of his house in a housing complex to the road and you can help warn incoming traffic or child mother.
In Jakarta, having no horn is a NO NO NO hahahah. Too much crazies on the road.
Yes I see it was modified (ugh), would you happen to have the diagram and/or know where to get the layout at? Thanks anyways
... can the porting that was started be completed?
W213 circuit replaced by original w212
rewiring the horn circuit
I can't understand why the W213 horn circuit above does not activate the W212 horn logic.
The W213 4x switches are mounted in a parallel "OR" circuit. Any single horn switch triggers the horn message through the serial LIN bus.
The W212 PCB input uses 4 pins for 3 horns switches. Is it 1x Common line returning in 3x input lines that must each stay Closed ie. Any Open means hunk/horn. (Then try pulling down unused inputs as in add 2x jumpers to common)
What has changed...
Can you ohm-out your W212 switches vs. W213?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 05-15-2022 at 04:04 PM.
... can the porting that was started be completed?
W213 circuit replaced by original w212
rewiring the horn circuit
I can't understand why the W213 horn circuit above does not activate the W212 horn logic.
The W213 4x switches are mounted in a parallel "OR" circuit. Any single horn switch triggers the horn message through the serial LIN bus.
The W212 PCB input uses 4 pins for 3 horns switches. Is it 1x Common line returning in 3x input lines that must each stay Closed ie. Any Open means hunk/horn. (Then try pulling down unused inputs as in add 2x jumpers to common)
What has changed...
Can you ohm-out your W212 switches vs. W213?
The two white wires were not connected when I pulled apart the steering wheel, rather just contained separately by the electrical tape. Should I try to connect these?
Do you have access to the electrical diagram for either of these two boards? I have no electrical experience but if you can dumb it down enough for me I'm willing to give it a shot, I like learning
Can you explain the process of ohm-ing out the switches?
I think my problem with understanding right now is that I don't grasp the conceptualizations around what needs to be connected to make the car honk. Do I need to solder wires from the two white wires wrapped in electrical tape to any one of the 4 holes where the horn prongs should be?
If you are unable to study your horn circuitry then you could search for threads with ready made horn solutions.
You are trying to mixt & match part of a W213 wheel in a W212 system. Earlier I mentioned ohming-out your parts, to understand how the horn switches are inter-connected. It's safe and easy... Without any power connected to your steering, connect your DVM-Ohmeter to your horn switch to understand how it works.
I don't have access to W213 schematics. I overalled my w212 steering column hardware without using schematics.
Your horn interface issue is how to plug a 2pin horn circuit to a 4 pin board.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 05-16-2022 at 02:21 AM.
Dang.... W213 some models (version 2 in Diag ) is using CAN BUS between N135 board to N80 steering column. At the same time it is using Flex Ray to the N80.
W212 which still uses slower CAN BUS - Chassis CAN E1 to N80 and slower LIN to N135 board.
By logic, if any of those buttons from W213 works on W212, it must be the N135 version still using LIN.
The horn is easy to find.
Where at the Plastic Assy has a female terminal, that is horn use. All other connection from all other buttons to N135 is using wire, only horn uses mating of male pin of N135 to female terminal at Plastic Assy.
If you are unable to study your horn circuitry then you could search for threads with ready made horn solutions.
You are trying to mixt & match part of a W213 wheel in a W212 system. Earlier I mentioned ohming-out your parts, to understand how the horn switches are inter-connected. It's safe and easy... Without any power connected to your steering, connect your DVM-Ohmeter to your horn switch to understand how it works.
I don't have access to W213 schematics. I overalled my w212 steering column hardware without using schematics.
Your horn interface issue is how to plug a 2pin horn circuit to a 4 pin board.
Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
Dang.... W213 some models (version 2 in Diag ) is using CAN BUS between N135 board to N80 steering column. At the same time it is using Flex Ray to the N80.
W212 which still uses slower CAN BUS - Chassis CAN E1 to N80 and slower LIN to N135 board.
By logic, if any of those buttons from W213 works on W212, it must be the N135 version still using LIN.
The horn is easy to find.
Where at the Plastic Assy has a female terminal, that is horn use. All other connection from all other buttons to N135 is using wire, only horn uses mating of male pin of N135 to female terminal at Plastic Assy.
Attached W213 and W12 all about N135.
Have a good adventure Young Luke
Thank you S-Prihadi, I'll be reading these and trying to figure out how to do this. Thank you for giving me the tools to get towards a solution. CaliBenzDriver, thank you aswell I'll comment should I have any more questions.
Just to be clear since I have no electrical background... this is feasible to fix, correct?
First rule of troubleshooting is not always electrial diagram.
We are discussing here a W213 N135 board with its plastic assy which is evident, its been tampered with. So this is very visual hardware. This is easier .
You need to Google a lot to find the same N135 Assy ( un-molested one ) like yours in Google to see how the plastic assy looks like as-is un molested.
This is to verify where the female horn terminal is at.
Your current plastic assy is ruined, its top part left side and right side, but that is not a real problem , because those male pins are connected to the buttons using wired connectors
Green zone 1 and 2 are the ruined/missing pins guide which is also locking point for the wired connectors going to them switches.
By logical position, pink 3 and 4 are the Pedal-DOWN and Pedal-UP tranny switch male pins.
Pink 6 and 7 probably heater and shaker.
Red 5 is what you need to confirm as available in a N135 Plastic Assy if un-molested.
By the look of the red 5 on an unmolested Plastic Assy, those copper trace showed that there should be female terminal there.
So for the time being, we assumed that someone has removed at the N135 board, red 5, 4 of the male pins for horns.
You need to google hard to first identify mechanically-visually, what you are missing on your N135 board and Plastic Assy.
Good luck on the search....
The good thing is this N135 Complete Assy is under US$100 , so its not a worry if you need to buy a complete new one which is SUITABLE for your W213 steering wheel. SUITABLE as in what you have now actually has all muti function buttons and Tranny UP/DOWN work well towards the N80, except the horn.
First rule of troubleshooting is not always electrial diagram.
We are discussing here a W213 N135 board with its plastic assy which is evident, its been tampered with. So this is very visual hardware. This is easier .
You need to Google a lot to find the same N135 Assy ( un-molested one ) like yours in Google to see how the plastic assy looks like as-is un molested.
This is to verify where the female horn terminal is at.
Your current plastic assy is ruined, its top part left side and right side, but that is not a real problem , because those male pins are connected to the buttons using wired connectors
Green zone 1 and 2 are the ruined/missing pins guide which is also locking point for the wired connectors going to them switches.
By logical position, pink 3 and 4 are the Pedal-DOWN and Pedal-UP tranny switch male pins.
Pink 6 and 7 probably heater and shaker.
Red 5 is what you need to confirm as available in a N135 Plastic Assy if un-molested.
By the look of the red 5 on an unmolested Plastic Assy, those copper trace showed that there should be female terminal there.
So for the time being, we assumed that someone has removed at the N135 board, red 5, 4 of the male pins for horns.
You need to google hard to first identify mechanically-visually, what you are missing on your N135 board and Plastic Assy.
Good luck on the search....
The good thing is this N135 Complete Assy is under US$100 , so its not a worry if you need to buy a complete new one which is SUITABLE for your W213 steering wheel. SUITABLE as in what you have now actually has all muti function buttons and Tranny UP/DOWN work well towards the N80, except the horn.
Will do, I'm going to look into this when I get a chance. I dont have the heater or shaker options, so I'm not worried about those lost functions. If I have time tomorrow I'll disassemble everything again. This is my mode of primary transportation so I can't just pull it apart everyday... LOL. I have a friend who is a mechanical engineer who is much more educated on these sorts of things, I'm hoping he can lend me a hand and he finds a simple solution.
Editing for clarity: I'm not yet going to purchase a new N135 board. I'll wait for more info from CaliBenzDriver (mwah), and the input from my mech e friend before purchasing anything further. This board HAS worked in the past for the previous person, I have no reason to not believe them.
05-08-2022 | 05:20 PM
and I see there are modification/removal made to 1 pin and extra wires soldered.
