S-Prihadi

Sharing..............

M276 3.0 Turbo gets the NanoSlide coating like the AMG engines.
NanoSlide engine : 133, 139, 156, 176, 177, 178, 254, 256.9, 276.8, 654, 656 & 159

Below is how rust looks on on NanoSLide ( Twin Wire Arc ) coated liner/cylinder walll.
My car at first 2 years of my ownership often have to turn its engine ON for only a few minutes to re-shuffle the parking space in my home, the indoor garage one.
Its a 2 car length car park, but front and back and not side by side arrangement.
These few minutes engine running is worse than short drive.

While it is okey by MB tech document, attached, this is to show you guys the "wetness" of engine running only a few minutes .
Yep, lots of water vapor...wet wet wet.
Don't we all wish a prettier sight.


Cylinder 1 - all photos are from cylinder 1







MB said



Last year I boroscope-ded too, but the Teslong I use is good for close up work, the new boroscope I use now is a bit far focus and bigger LEDS, so can see futher clearer but not good for close up.

Last year Teslong boroscope, 5.5mm OD : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...vaporator.html

The one I am using now is this one : 8.5mm OD, so bigger leds and sensor, but fat.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...21ef1802p3sDcO


Last year the image was too dark if from far. Cylinder 1 - all photos are from cylinder 1



If close up Teslong is good, but not good for visualization unlike wider field of view




Since I am doing many things on my car at once and has aftercooler out, I now can spin crankshaft manually and do proper cylinders inspection.


The new 180 degrees steer-able boroscope is not possible to see valve stem, because the U bent too fat-wide, but good for valves face.

new 180 degree boroscope




Teslong twin camera


I shall add more pictures in a few days.



If you guys wants to learn more about liner/cylinder scoring and the type of liner coating and what type of fuels do what bad stuff, here are 2 great informative videos.







Since these are Porsche guys video, I attached Porsche SUMEBore coating document for those tech junkie.
I also attached MB NanoSlide coating , the tech stuff , not the marketing talk.


Enjoy..............

pierrejoliat

As a distillation engineer, everything in the first video was spot on, if you must use ethanol laced fuel in small engines, empty tank and start, then run until it quits, that will save your seals and carbs,

ghlkal

I do this with all my small engines.

S-Prihadi

Sad teaser..... Cylinder 1 intake valve.
Well, Direct Injection....... can't be as clean as common port injection


Intake Valve 1 of 2




Intake Valve 1 of 2


=====================

Intake valve 2 of 2

Intake valve 2 of 2

S-Prihadi

Cylinder 2

















If I will one day clean my intake valves, I guess injectors are best to be taken out and inspected for its fine nozzles, if any carbon is messing up its micro holes.

S-Prihadi

Same old same old.... ALL PHOTOS ARE CYLINDER 3




A tiny bit less rusty region than Cylinders 1 and 2

chassis

Great photos @S-Prihadi ! Thanks.

S-Prihadi

Glad you enjoy it Chassis...


Cylinder 4 - 36,000KM

S-Prihadi

Hhhmm Cylinder 5 piston is a bit dirty. Seems like the intake valve carbon at some point has dislodged. That funny shape part of the piston, that is for intake valves.
Now with higher resolution boroscope I can see better. The white balance is also better on the new boroscope.








Rusty region also not so much

S-Prihadi

CYLINDER 6















I wonder why there seems what used to be like a mild dark carbon residue on the darker/left exhaust valve

Dane500

Great stuff. I can tell you from vast experience that an alcohol injection kit will take care of the DI valve mess. But ya gotta drive it for it to work.

S-Prihadi

Thanks for the suggestion Dane.
I been wanting to clean the intake valves MANUALLY and have got all the seal kit, but since this job will open opportunity for me to replace plastics/rubbers components, I will also replace all these below at the same time.
These parts below is actually my 10 year rejunevation plan, but since the removing of intake manifold allows better room, best I use that opportunity if and when possible.

Plastic pipe 1 and 2 (#200)


=================


Hose 1 (#180)




Item #30 in pink. I already have the #150 in green, but I only use its dual check-valve



Item #10




I am checking with MB Indonesia. Surely some will be 3 months wait.

S-Prihadi

The intake manifold adapter and the oil separator item #30 in under the silver duct tape I marked green/cyan.
With V valley open up, I hope to remove the vacuum pump and I again hope I can access Plastic Pipe 1 which is not easy reach.












ADD


Tight working space











If vacuum pump removed, seems working space would be much better. This job will be hand/finger cutter for sure.

chassis

@S-Prihadi to clean the intake valves are you doing this with the cylinder head removed?

S-Prihadi

No no... me will poke thru the inlet valve opening only, so only intake manifold removed + its short adapter

Like this.....

S-Prihadi

The I-HATE-MOST part is making sure no clip on this wire tray cover will break. Very unfriendly clips and many many....

Last time took me an hour+ just to slowly un-do the clips and yet I can not do 2 clips at the rear. I am not gentle fingers like Cali.



and then undo ALL wiring on top of the V bank...... I do not know how many sensors I need to disconnect to safely get the plenty-of-wires out of the way

And then remove below :



Remove aftercooler again....

Plus whatever other surprises which I do not know yet........

CaliBenzDriver

Stay on course... let your mind control those fingers and all will be .
I can't wait for your next test video to hear those turbos with cleaned intakes.


Hopefully I can get my 212 running next week or sooner to extract "plugged heater core" data.

S-Prihadi

Many new special tools later and one improvised one...... I can now open up the ECM wire box cover much faster.
The last 2 rear clips.... I can open today hahahaha









Slimmed down so that it can work better



GrandMa set





These will be the nightmares to unscrew/remove and re-install. Item 1 and 2 and 4. Because heat shield or intermediate firewall working space tight





Item 4 is the plastic guide and big cable for starter, from battery pyro fuse
Item 3 are 2 fuel lines need to be removed for good space for arm/hand to manuver to rear of engine.




Aha...the plastic pipe no 1, the bollt C is blocked by vacuum pump , so indeed vacuum pump must be removed.








This grey-silver jacket wire assy can not be removed, its goes to everywhere behind the engine. At best remove the ones towards sensors at front of engine only and keep aside the box, like this Turkey tech.




See how the grey-silver, two wire-set are still heading to the rear of the engine. The one he managed to remove and the connector dangling, that one is at Bank 1 near HP fuel pump










God Bless anyone needing to change Coolant Temperature Sensor on M276.8 3.0 Turbo on E400, I wonder if M276.9 3.5L is the same ??
He will need to do work as much as me. wanting to clean intake valves, maybe less inlet manifold. The coolant plastic pipe #1 must be rremoved first

S-Prihadi

Close up of the grey-silver jacketed wire assy