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First, thank you all for your responses and thoughtful input. While I rotated the tires, flushed the fluid, replaced all hoses, disabled ABS, replaced front pads/rotors/calipers, it was to no avail. So I took the vehicle back to my mechanic, and this time they found the problem, The rear subframe is rusted and cracked on the left side. Apparently this is an issue with E and C class. I’ve read a few threads on here regarding the issue and at least one described how my car feels when braking suddenly from moderate or higher speed. Apparently this is repairable but beyond my skill set and comfort level.
Edited to ad: thank you juanmor40. He identified the problem a month ago. I missed the sub frame rot with my car on the ground but my mechanic found it on the lift.
So sorry to hear, that's a difficult and expensive repair that would be way over my head, would be nice if MB took care of this, not likely though.
So sorry to hear, that's a difficult and expensive repair that would be way over my head, would be nice if MB took care of this, not likely though.
It's really not that bad of a job, and can be done at home with a good set of tall jack stands to support the car, and floor jack to lower/raise the rear end assembly. It's a lot of steps for sure, budget a full weekend to complete the job (maybe a 3-day weekend for a first-timer), but doesn't require any special equipment. Just a bunch of sockets, wrenches, and a torque wrench. You can fully prep the replacement subframe ahead of time, before taking your vehicle out of service. If you really want to make it 110%, you first take the new subframe to a shop to have all the paint sandblasted off of it, then have it powercoated black, being sure to powdercoat the *inside* of the two legs that like to rust. Then with a bushing press kit (inexpensive from harbor freight or amazon) you press all the new bushings into the subframe. Then it's just an R&R exercise, unbolting the old stuff and then reassembling onto the new subframe. Depending on how many miles you have on it, may also be worth changing out some of those rear suspension links while you have it apart, those links all have bushings and ball joints that wear out. The drive shaft flex disc as well, since you'll have it apart. Once you're finished, schedule an alignment at your local dealer, and you're all set for another 100k+ miles. Search the BMW forums for some good photos and step-by-step, this is a common procedure on the E46, not because the subframe rusts, but because all the rubber bushings wear out, and you have to remove the subframe to replace them. Ask me how I know.
Edit: Just noticed OP stated 153k miles on the car, so yes I would definitely recommend replacing all the rear suspension links and the flex disc, while it's apart - they aren't very expensive, and they're all worn at this point.
Closing the loop on this issue. Here’s the offending rusted sub frame. It failed on the driver side shock mount. My local Mercedes dealer quoted about $2300 parts and $5700 labor for the repair. I bought all genuine Mercedes parts online and had a local, trusted mechanic do the work according to WIS instructions. Delivered it to the mechanic yesterday at lunchtime and car is ready today at lunchtime. Parts before tax $1376, labor about $600. I didn’t replace other suspension components or flex plate at this time. All still in good shape so I will replace myself when needed. Regarding this repair, $2k vs $8k is offensive. It’s a 5-6 hour job. MB must have their book time around 30 hrs.
Mercedes has extended the corrosion warranty to 20 years. Rear subframes are now on Mercedes nickel.
Thanks for posting this. I had the exact same problem and thought one of the front brake hoses was obstructed or the calipers were sticking. I changed the front brake hoses and the problem persisted. Took the the car to the dealer for the subframe inspection under the extended warranty and the tech confirmed that the subframe on the right side was on the verge of collapsing due to the extensive rust and perforations which caused the car to not track straight under hard braking. Car goes in this week for the warranty work on MB's dime...
Thanks for posting this. I had the exact same problem and thought one of the front brake hoses was obstructed or the calipers were sticking. I changed the front brake hoses and the problem persisted. Took the the car to the dealer for the subframe inspection under the extended warranty and the tech confirmed that the subframe on the right side was on the verge of collapsing due to the extensive rust and perforations which caused the car to not track straight under hard braking. Car goes in this week for the warranty work on MB's dime...
If you, and others who had the subframe replaced under the extended Mercedes warranty, would so kindly share from which country you are from, basically where you replaced the subframe? Maybe how much you had to pay? I mean if you changed the control arms as well or other things when they took the subframe off.
the thing I’m curious about is the fact that I only saw that the warranty was extended in USA, I could not find any news or recalls about this issue in Europe.
I had to change the subframe last year before the extended warranty had been announced, and all in all, it was just over 2500$. All the control arms and many bolts and bushings have also been changed with that occasion. Keep in mind that it was in Europe, in Romania, so labor is a lot cheaper compared to other countries. Still, given that the car was just over 10 years old, and given the median wage in my country, it was a lot of money.
one last thing, the subframe itself was around 200$, but when I checked online for the part, I saw that many were selling from 500-1000$. How much is the subframe in you country?
benidB - I believe the warranty in the UK is 30 years (?) and thought it was extended in the EU as well. I’m in the US. Here, Mercedes dealers can sell parts cheaper on line than at the parts counter. I bought the subframe on line for $1215 (instead of $1900) and picked it up at the dealership. I had it installed by an independent mechanic. MB reimbursed me 2 weeks after providing my receipts to the dealership.
benidB - I believe the warranty in the UK is 30 years (?) and thought it was extended in the EU as well. I’m in the US. Here, Mercedes dealers can sell parts cheaper on line than at the parts counter. I bought the subframe on line for $1215 (instead of $1900) and picked it up at the dealership. I had it installed by an independent mechanic. MB reimbursed me 2 weeks after providing my receipts to the dealership.
@ccryan67 Did MB reimburse you for the cost of your labor as well?
I own a 2009 C350 and a 2012 C300 and had to replace the rear subframes on both of them before the extended warranty came out. I bought OEM MB parts and had them shipped to a independent shop near me and had them do the install. My local MB dealership is telling me that MB won’t reimburse me for the labor.
I was reimbursed for both parts and labor. Perhaps contact MBUSA on your own to confirm then suggest that they contact MBUSA as well. Experience with my local dealership leads me to believe they think they know a lot more than they do.
@ccryan67 Thanks for the response. Actually, I've had 2 conversations with MBUSA now (detailing out what happened below for others in the event they run into the same thing):
The first one was for questions I had around the extended warranty, specifically how it worked. They pointed me to the dealership.
I then tried the dealership (Mercedes Benz of Indianapolis - which used to be World Wide Motors) which is when the Service dept. told me that MBUSA wouldn't reimburse me for the labor, only the OEM parts.
I then called MBUSA back and explained to them what the dealership told me. MBUSA replied saying the dealership may not reimburse me since I didn't have the labor done there.
I explained to them that the dealership wanted to charge me $4,400+ and that I could get it done elsewhere for at least half of that. Also, at the time, there was no indication that MBUSA was ever going to reimburse me so I wanted to watch what I spent. I had two family members driving these cars over the winter and didn't want to risk their lives in the event they hit a pothole or something, so I was forced into making a decision. Plus, the dealership told me the parts were on backorder and had no idea when they would be available. So, I had to track down the parts myself and line up the independent service tech to to the install.
To which MBUSA said that I needed to work with the dealership directly as they are the ones who are responsible for the reimbursements. (Essentially pushing everything on to the dealership)
So, I'm wondering if this is going to be one of those deals where it depends on what dealership you go to as to whether or not you'll get reimbursed for labor.
I wonder if anyone else has had success getting their labor reimbursed.
One would think MBUSA should have a position on this since they’re footing the bill. I can only speak to my experience. I brought my car to the dealership for inspection initially. They quoted me roughly 6K for labor and didn’t even bother working up a parts estimate. I took my car from the dealer to the independent repair guy who did the work for $700 plus an extra $100 for an alignment. I was reimbursed for everything which seems only fair given I got the work done for an 1/8th of what Mercedes would’ve charged. The check was drawn on the dealership’s account.
01-17-2023, 08:34 PM
