Hello

is this recall still open? how do I get this letter? also is it possible any to forward it to my email

 

It's an extended warranty not a recall so as long as it's been less than 20 years, your car is still covered. But only if the rear subframe is rusted. The difference between a recall and extended warranty is that with a recall it gets replaced regardless of whether it's bad or not. With an extended warranty, it only gets replaced if it's bad. If it's fine, they will do nothing. The link is easy to find online:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...33796-0001.pdf

 

Well, my 51K mile E350 4MATIC did NOT have a rusty frame in KY, USA (as defined by MB, no perfs, just surface rust) after inspection at an indy. The car had spent most of its earlier life in NYC, USA, 26K miles worth up to 2021 and was briefly in PA at a dealer where I bought it.

HOWEVER, the rear brake lines were rusted to crap and one suddenly let loose, spectacularly. An indy replaced both and the holders, etc. for me up to the non-rusty ABS in front for ~1400USD, which was a fairly good deal given the nasty labor involved. They bent new lines out of copper-nickel alloy. Obviously, I was not interested in going OEM on these lines.

How can this happen this far into the 21'st century on a "premium" car? I wonder what the OEM cost diff between cupro-nickel alloy and steel brake lines is on an entire car.

 

Cuppro nickel with 70/30 , 30% being nickle is listed as UIS$16.25 per kg
https://www.jugaltube.com/copper-nickel-products/#1

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Steel will be less than US$1.80 per kg for good grade, so I read.

If there is option code to do 70/30 nickle on brake pipes, I would pay for it. Rather than "better" sound system.
But me lucky, zero rust. No road salt or winter, just rainy season at best in the tropics and my car is low mileage and I do not go out when raining, I use the other car.... ha ha ha.

Still only in America you can get warranty on MB extended this far to 25 years , including the SBC
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-warranty.html

On marine generator, good brand uses good 70/30 cuppro nickel as sea water to coolant heat exchanger. Last 8,000 hours possible.
Lesser brand small marine generator uses probably just brass, under 2,000 hours it will leak...damn !!!

 

I took my car in to a local indy because the car would not track straight as in it wants to follow the crown in the road. In the last year I replaced the upper control arm bushings and front sway bar links and struts and all associated parts. I figured i screwed up the bushing replacement and they had failed again.

Well I get a call today and they say they can't align it because the rear sub frame is rusted. In addition to the tracking issue I get vibrations on the highway. So the question is can these symptoms be related to the rusted rear sub frame?

 

Yup

 

Yes, take it to the dealer, tell them that your mechanic said your rear subframe was rusting out.

 

Have an inspection appointment for 1:00 PM today. Does the warranty subframe replacement include an alignment? I looked over the brake lines today. White chalky corrosion but not to bad looking at this point. Will be declining the line replacement if they recommend it.

 

Post 78 says alignment included...

 

Thanks

 

Dealer ordered subframe. Said part should be there in a couple of days.

At dealership:

 

That is great news...PLUS...if I am not mistaken...they align the car as part of the install! (I am sure the internet will correct me if I am mistaken)

 

No You are correct. See post 109 that references post 78.


They even washed it.

 

I had mine replaced by a local mechanic...VERY costly...one would think they would let a good customer know it was a warranty thing....beh...I actually drove that car today for a bit. 240/mi and going quite strong (but, it is no the E63S or the GLS)...

 

I think that you could be eligible for reimbursement

 

I talked to my mechanic today (yesterday) about it. He said they could "come up with something" as the shop who did the work claims they are not able to find the reciept.

 

Starting to wonder about other things that should be looked into and or done as part of this repair. For example at a minimum determine the health of the rear shocks. Another question is do they drop the exhaust as part of this repair and would that facilitate a check / replacement of the flex discs / center support bearing?

 

If the subframe is free and ONLY SUBFRAME, there are two items you can do/replace while subframe is out and can only be done with subframe removed.

Arm #350, Strut Rod/Radius rod
and the stabilizer/sway bar assy.


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Make sure the techy tightened the arm #350 at subframe side at PROPER simulated ride heght.......... while subframe is on the ground.
That #350 bolt and nut can not be tightened & torqued while subframe on the car...no room for the tools. Car body blocking our work.

The ride height can actually be known while subframe on the floor, by the cv drive shaft romess angle.
Or.......
Using marker pen on bushing and subframe arm holder, when subframe is still on the car and we do the simulated ride height.
This is how I set my arm #350 ride height subframe side when I renewed it. Yes, I had my subframe out of the car.

The suspension arm ride height is for both bushings, subframe side and wheel knuckle/carrier side.

 

In your picture it looks like the shock was connected to the assembly and disconnected from the chassis of the car. I would have thought that it would have been easier to remove them at the bottom. Do you think that is how the dealership will do it or did you do it that way because you were going to replace the shocks anyway. I am asking because if the dealership does it that way it should be super cheap to get them to replace the rear shocks.

 

one would think. The dealership however would charge book time for it

 

I'm guessing that the dealership would disconnect them at the bottom rather than dick around in the trunk to disconnect them there.

 

When I removed my subframe, shock absorbers get removed first. I only have 50cm Quick Jack maximum height.
The 1st photo I show you is not mine, that is from USA car.
2nd photo is mine, but subframe is not removed yet.

This is my subframe, removal process.
I even removed the DIFF first, while subframe still on the car. DIFF is heavy, easy 35kg.
I also replaced the DIFF busings (2) and DIFF mount (1), thus I need the DIFF to be removed anyway.

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You will get all these new bushings with NEW subframe, must be :
4 subframe main bushings to car body. 2 front and 2 rear. (2025)
2 DIFF bushings ( 2025 )
2 spring arm bushings. ( done in 2023), no need subframe removed from the car.

Me, I replaced all these 8 bushings myself. That is why I need the subframe to come down, for 4 main bushings refresh.

 

Got my car back after replacement of the rear subframe. Had to take it back because the first time I used the parking brake it went straight to the floor. They said that it was hooked up at the rear wheels but moving the cable must of disconnected it from the front end and they didn't catch that during the initial repare.

The tendancy of the car to drift with the crown of the road is significantly reduced. When I mentioned that to the service advisor and asked whether that was due to the subframe or the alignment he seemed to think that it was the alignment as he mentioned that it was pretty far out. I just requested that he send me the alignment sheets and will post those when I get them.

This could be due to ephoric recall of my previous Mercedes W211, W201, W111 coupe, and my GOAT W128 but it seems like it still requires more minor corrections than I remember to go down the highway. In my mind these cars are the super cars of straight line stability (which is one of the things that makes them what they are to me)