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No start, weird noise, attached video please help. Starter or electrical?
Attached video, doesn’t sound like it’s turning over, could this be the starter? I’m used to working on my ‘96 7.3 diesel lol so not sure with these newer more electrically based vehicles. Attached video for reference…
TIA for any help!
Then what codes and have you considered CPS, and how old is that battery? What are the circumstances around when this started happening?
can you see the belts turning in engine bay when someone attempts a start?
Not aware of any codes. Battery is about a year old and I even tried jumping the battery just in case when I first encountered this issue.
The car has been sitting for a couple months since I have a tranny issue (torque converter going out badly), and I’ve made sure to start and drive it around the block at least to make sure it stays running until I get a new tranny.
The last time I ran it was about a week and a half before this no start issue. Always fired right up even after sitting for longer periods of time like before I had a tranny issue, I got another car and let this one sit for a month or so, hopped in it and it fired up instantly. Yes, belts are turning when attempting to start. I had my daughter try and start it while I recorded the belts on the engine (see attached).
Not aware of any codes. Battery is about a year old and I even tried jumping the battery just in case when I first encountered this issue.
The car has been sitting for a couple months since I have a tranny issue (torque converter going out badly), and I’ve made sure to start and drive it around the block at least to make sure it stays running until I get a new tranny.
The last time I ran it was about a week and a half before this no start issue. Always fired right up even after sitting for longer periods of time like before I had a tranny issue, I got another car and let this one sit for a month or so, hopped in it and it fired up instantly. Yes, belts are turning when attempting to start. I had my daughter try and start it while I recorded the belts on the engine (see attached).
starter motor sounds kind of worn out. they make that noise as the voltage regulator is starting to go out. sounds like a wheezy long cough
starter motor sounds kind of worn out. they make that noise as the voltage regulator is starting to go out. sounds like a wheezy long cough
Not sure if you’ve had a chance to look at the new video I posted showing the belts and getting a better audio of the noise…
but if so, you still think it’s the starter that’s the culprit?? Thanks a lot for your help and feedback everyone.
It is cranking pretty slow but it should fire up if everything else is working. Your dash lights seem bright so I don't think voltage is too low. I noticed your tach doesn't move, makes me wonder if it's cranking too slow to register, or maybe they normally don't register until it fires? Can't say I ever paid attention... My thought was maybe the crank sensor is toast so no tach. No sensor = no spark, and probably no fuel either. But if only the sensor was bad then it should crank fine. Hmmm...
You can also sniff the tail pipe after a good cranking to see if there's raw gas. That'll tell you it's trying. If I can't smell any I'll spray starting fluid in it to see if there's spark.
If everything is fine but it is simply spinning to slow to fire up, which I think would be odd, the starting fluid will help fire it off and answer that question.
I usually suspect the battery, because they're usually to blame, but I'm certainly leaning towards the starter at this point. Usually you can smell a dying starter, and since the eng is cold it should be easy to sniff out.
That's all I can think of at the moment, good luck!
do you have any stored codes? That starter isn't moving quick enough for my liking, I can hear compression building but it should still fire up even with that slow crank now that I watch the speed of everything turning.
Your cranking RPM is only 106 RPM at best. Probably that is too slow.
Mine normal healthy, slowest crank would be 185 RPM there about ....when engine has not been run for 30 days and I use Xentry compression feature to pre-lubed my engine.
I had occasional starting issues with my car not starting on the first try and many very long cranks. Changed out the starter and problem solved.
One time my car would not start after the starter was changed already. It was a cold morning and I had the car towed to the dealer service. They said the engine was flooded and that it would have started if I held the gas pedal to the floor.
They did some sort of an upgrade in the fuel control, and I have not had that problem since. This was many years ago now.
I don't think you have the flooded engine problem, but you can try flooring the gas pedal while you crank it.
Simply use the black side of your "jumper cable" to....
Jump your chassis GND post near batt. to any engine solid GND part.
Thiswill effectively bypass questionable unprotected GND STRAP chassis to tranny!
Example pics: Chassis GND Post
Engine block GND
In the above pics... ONLY NEG IS JUMPED OVER TO ENGINE where starter expects its 650Amp cranking peak (RED side cable left unused).
----- External power source :
When you jump your battery from a donor car...
jump DIRECTLY to engine GND (NOT to "jump post" near battery to bypass the skinny strap). My favorite engine GND spot
----- what seems to be wrong with the tranny on this car? (poor GND issue?)
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 05-31-2023 at 08:14 PM.
Reason: pics
It is cranking pretty slow but it should fire up if everything else is working. Your dash lights seem bright so I don't think voltage is too low. I noticed your tach doesn't move, makes me wonder if it's cranking too slow to register, or maybe they normally don't register until it fires? Can't say I ever paid attention... My thought was maybe the crank sensor is toast so no tach. No sensor = no spark, and probably no fuel either. But if only the sensor was bad then it should crank fine. Hmmm...
You can also sniff the tail pipe after a good cranking to see if there's raw gas. That'll tell you it's trying. If I can't smell any I'll spray starting fluid in it to see if there's spark.
If everything is fine but it is simply spinning to slow to fire up, which I think would be odd, the starting fluid will help fire it off and answer that question.
I usually suspect the battery, because they're usually to blame, but I'm certainly leaning towards the starter at this point. Usually you can smell a dying starter, and since the eng is cold it should be easy to sniff out.
That's all I can think of at the moment, good luck!
it does appear pretty slow to me as well, haven’t tried anything yet as I’ve never worked on this type of vehicle, I’m so used to working on my 7.3 Powerstroke lol
I will try again, having my daughter help me while I smell the tailpipes for unburnt fuel and the engine bay for a smell of the starter… does that just smell like a general burning/overheating aroma? Maybe if no luck there I’ll try to replace the cps and then starter fluid if no luck with the previous attempts. I’ll update here with my findings after I try that. Thanks
do you have any stored codes? That starter isn't moving quick enough for my liking, I can hear compression building but it should still fire up even with that slow crank now that I watch the speed of everything turning.
I believe the check engine light is on but I’m not aware of the codes. I’ll have to order a new obd code reader because last I used it was in my lady’s car and I’ve always kept it in my truck but it’s nowhere to be found so I think she threw it out smh! Ugh anyway, I’ll order another because I need one anyway and I’ll pull the codes and get back to you here. Thanks
Your cranking RPM is only 106 RPM at best. Probably that is too slow.
Mine normal healthy, slowest crank would be 185 RPM there about ....when engine has not been run for 30 days and I use Xentry compression feature to pre-lubed my engine.
The white dot/stain at the pulley is helpful
this is extremely cool! Awesome data you pulled here!!
so with my rpm being so slow, you’re thinking either starter or cps? Thanks
I had occasional starting issues with my car not starting on the first try and many very long cranks. Changed out the starter and problem solved.
One time my car would not start after the starter was changed already. It was a cold morning and I had the car towed to the dealer service. They said the engine was flooded and that it would have started if I held the gas pedal to the floor.
They did some sort of an upgrade in the fuel control, and I have not had that problem since. This was many years ago now.
I don't think you have the flooded engine problem, but you can try flooring the gas pedal while you crank it.
I will be finding time to get this done asap, as I’ve never replace the starter on this vehicle yet so I’m sure it needs it by the looks of things.
been looking up starter replacement videos on YouTube but very hard to find anything on our specific cars, maybe you could point out exactly where it’s at and save me a bit of time searching all these non year/model specific videos? Thanks!!
Simply use the black side of your "jumper cable" to....
Jump your chassis GND post near batt. to any engine solid GND part.
Thiswill effectively bypass questionable unprotected GND STRAP chassis to tranny!
Example pics: Chassis GND Post
Engine block GND
In the above pics... ONLY NEG IS JUMPED OVER TO ENGINE where starter expects its 650Amp cranking peak (RED side cable left unused).
----- External power source :
When you jump your battery from a donor car...
jump DIRECTLY to engine GND (NOT to "jump post" near battery to bypass the skinny strap). My favorite engine GND spot
----- what seems to be wrong with the tranny on this car? (poor GND issue?)
is this method to be used only if there is a poor tranny GND issue?
the issue with my tranny is the torque converter going out badly! Thanks
Yes anytime... It is always good - This car GND circuit s missing a backup parh AND the main path is exposed to as many oxidative factors as possible - Thank MB engineers responsible for this AMAZINGLY POOR STRAP... (as compared to reliable cars)
Great focussed development, opportunities are everywhere : TRUE GERMAN MASTERY . ' .
Japanese were allowed by their German masters to have a secondary GND strap that bypasses the passenger side mount.
GND STRAP de-ox maintenance should be part of 30kMi tune-ups and a $5 secondary path installed.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-07-2023 at 03:12 PM.
this is extremely cool! Awesome data you pulled here!!
so with my rpm being so slow, you’re thinking either starter or cps? Thanks
CPS - CrankPosSensor has nothing to do with cranking speed. But engine will never start if the CPS is not working, as there will be no timing data.
Slow crank if engine internal has no extra resistance or issue, it means it is starter motor or/and its electric supply being the culprit.
CPS - CrankPosSensor has nothing to do with cranking speed. But engine will never start if the CPS is not working, as there will be no timing data.
Slow crank if engine internal has no extra resistance or issue, it means it is starter motor or/and its electric supply being the culprit.
ok thank you, copy. Sorry about such a delayed reply, it’s been a hectic and busy week with two graduations for both of my daughters, so just getting to this.
I will work on getting the starter replaced asap. Is it easy to get to or in a tough spot?
ok thank you, copy. Sorry about such a delayed reply, it’s been a hectic and busy week with two graduations for both of my daughters, so just getting to this.
I will work on getting the starter replaced asap. Is it easy to get to or in a tough spot?
yes and no. no starter is made for convenience, it's where it needs to be to make the car work. it's reachable if youre on a lift.
exhaust gets removed on the left side, its easier than it sounds, and it's a similar procedure for a Honda Civic. i do a couple a month, especially during hot months
Update: cryptic message from service shop reviewing my videos
So this is very alarming and confusing. Sent a message with the videos to the shop that is supposed to replace my transmission. Thinking it might be the starter, I sent them an email with the videos I posted to this thread, seeing if they would agree/confirm and I would possibly tow my car to the shop and have them do both jobs. However, this is what they said in their reply: Email Response from service shop reviewing my videos
I'm not sure how it could be possible for my motor to have suffered any fatal damage, as I haven’t even been driving it and the last few times I have has just been to run it around the block to keep the fluids running thru since I have it on a non op because I was saving to replace the transmission. Now that I have enough to replace the transmission, I can’t get it to start to get it to the shop to repair.
Has anyone ever heard this noise coming from a no start indicating the motor is toast??
05-28-2023, 03:26 PM
