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Just was making this post. Curious about when the conductor plate actually starts to fail. I am currently sitting at 82,000 miles basically drive the car every day and also curious of other things I should be looking out for. So far I did the water pump belt tensioner oil cooler gasket. Just wondering when the conductor plate starts to fail and when the intake manifold also starts to fail. Thank you for all the shoot your help.
The conductor plate doesn't fail you, it GETS failed by the end user when you don't change your fluid enough, debris it clogs the screens, and you have a bunch of metal being hydraulically pushed around abrades the conductor plate. The conductor plate can start to fail when you never change the fluid and you're going 120k miles in the desert. The main thing you should check for is the cam magnet, cam sensor leaks, the PCV on the back of the engine, and the oil cooler/oil filter housing leak. You should have done the thermostat too no? You'll get a code when it starts going out, usually its an electrical fault, not a mechanical one because it starts leaking internally and messes with the connector.
The intake manifold is interesting, you can go your whole life without it, you can pick up a 120k used car and itll happen next week, my personal experience it's more rare than people think but you'll know right away from the rattles and coding it does.
For the time being change your fluids and filters, upgrade the cabin filter to the Mann FreciousPlus, make sure you have the correct spark plugs, and don't drive on a worn battery so you can save your starter/alternator. You'd be surprised how many people blow out their blower motor from bad cabin filter maintenance (lease specials). The alternator job on these cars is pretty annoying so its good to spare the charging system extra work. Also when replacing the spark plugs please buy the NGK boot kit so you can replace the springs and boots on the ignition coils. Really underrated repair.
The W212 pre-facelift cars and matching W204 C Class are my #1 customers, I practically consider all of them my cars as well. Most of the ownership is drama free, parts are small, and there are no set intervals for when to replace hard parts like suspension it's completely up to your environment and your driving. For right now I would do all the fluids, filters, check your plugs, and the thing that is likely to start going out is the cheap $20 transmission mount that you can replace in like an hour under the car. The engine mounts will be fine, they usually don't give you trouble til well after 100k. The #1 priority service on these cars is the transmission service, the fluid is rated to 60k but often never makes it that far and the transmissions get diagnosed as failing when they're not. I would get the interval down to 40k. Support your local Amsoil dealer
The intake manifold going on the M272 is basically the oil separator and breather cover on the right side of the engine which is the the passenger side. FCPEuro has a kit where they replace all those parts, but not really sure you need the hoses or the separator for the other side. Those can basically go anywhere from 80-140k. Already did mine, was at about the 130k mark I think. Flaps got gummed up by the oil that the bad separator lets into the intake. Many youtube videos on both changing the separator and the intake.
Usually you do the thermostat, tensioner/pulleys at the same time as you have to remove one of the pulleys anyway to get at the thermostat. MB batteries are actually pretty decent, still have the OEM one in both cars, the one in my 2008 is basically over 15 years old. The Varta batteries have the date code stamped on the battery post terminal. You can also go for a long while without changing the conductor plate, it's not that common, one of those things that may or may not happen to you during ownership, I'm over 130k on both cars and still haven't had to do a conductor plate yet.
Another quick question how many quarts of trans fluid does the trans take. I’m pretty familiar with the procedure. I know you overfill it go through the the gears, and then drain the excess out
For the motor mounts, they're liquid filled and you'll notice a vibration when they're gone. If you can put up with the vibration, you don't need to replace them. They get crushed over time so a new one is higher than the old one. The key seems to be getting the right sized 16mm offset wrench to fit the nut at the top of the motor mount, hard to reach with a regular wrench. There's several threads that go over how hard they are to do. You could get a set from FCPEuro so that when they go again, you don't have to pay for them again. The transmission mount is easy to do though.
For the transmission fluid, I think you are probably on ATF 134 FE which is the blue fluid, you have to check your vin to make sure it's not the red fluid which is ATF 134. I think you use a vin decoder and if you have code A89 for reduced friction it's ATF 134 FE. You can just get a case from a local shell distributor, mine is a tad under $90 for a case of 12 quarts.
For the motor mounts, they're liquid filled and you'll notice a vibration when they're gone. If you can put up with the vibration, you don't need to replace them. They get crushed over time so a new one is higher than the old one. The key seems to be getting the right sized 16mm offset wrench to fit the nut at the top of the motor mount, hard to reach with a regular wrench. There's several threads that go over how hard they are to do. You could get a set from FCPEuro so that when they go again, you don't have to pay for them again. The transmission mount is easy to do though.
For the transmission fluid, I think you are probably on ATF 134 FE which is the blue fluid, you have to check your vin to make sure it's not the red fluid which is ATF 134. I think you use a vin decoder and if you have code A89 for reduced friction it's ATF 134 FE. You can just get a case from a local shell distributor, mine is a tad under $90 for a case of 12 quarts.
thank you was just wondering if you ever seen the upgraded filter kit from FCP was wondering if that something I should look into
Check the code for your transmission, says not for A89 which is the ATF 134 FE fluid which is basically what MB switched over to after ATF 134. I suppose if yours was the old ATF 134, you could do it, sounds like a deeper pan which would hold more fluid and more fluid would mean it would last longer. Or you could just skip it and change the fluid more often.
Check the code for your transmission, says not for A89 which is the ATF 134 FE fluid which is basically what MB switched over to after ATF 134. I suppose if yours was the old ATF 134, you could do it, sounds like a deeper pan which would hold more fluid and more fluid would mean it would last longer. Or you could just skip it and change the fluid more often.
yeah, I don’t have code A89 and also I know some years of these cars have the balance shaft issues would mine pertain to that I have a 2011
yeah, I don’t have code A89 and also I know some years of these cars have the balance shaft issues would mine pertain to that I have a 2011
Balance shaft issue is history after 2007,.
M272 on the W212 is bullet proof. Perfected before going away.
Frequent oil changes, monitor PCV system, and intake mnaifold and it would likely outlast the body
M272 on the W212 is bullet proof. Perfected before going away.
oh ok cool thanks for all the help. The trans service was done at 58,000 miles from the dealer. I’m currently sitting at 82 so definitely doing it in the very near future.
yeah, I don’t have code A89 and also I know some years of these cars have the balance shaft issues would mine pertain to that I have a 2011
In 2011 they switched over to ATF 134 FE but some of the early production 2011 models were still ATF 134. No balance shaft issues on the W212, that was 2006 and some 2007 E350 models on the W211. Fine after that.
In 2011 they switched over to ATF 134 FE but some of the early production 2011 models were still ATF 134. No balance shaft issues on the W212, that was 2006 and some 2007 E350 models on the W211. Fine after that.
engine mounts last longer than you think they do, the vibrations usually come from the transmission mount and/or the car having breathing issues pertaining to the PCV from poor maintenance, hell even the alternator going out. I use regular wrenches and get at the top nut from the bottom
you have an A89 transmission. Use LastVin site to confirm.
use a slippery pete handpump, it takes 5 quarts, you buy six for insurance, I recommend 7 to push a little bit more of the old fluid out. 722.9 ATF adapter is on amazon. The filter kit you can buy from RockAuto from VAICO with everything you need including the bolts. The upgraded filter kit IS for the A89 transmissions which has the deeper sump and thicker filter. I don't think it would apply to you. You can also check the transmission pan and tell me if it has dimples or not like this one
engine mounts last longer than you think they do, the vibrations usually come from the transmission mount and/or the car having breathing issues pertaining to the PCV from poor maintenance, hell even the alternator going out. I use regular wrenches and get at the top nut from the bottom
you have an A89 transmission. Use LastVin site to confirm.
use a slippery pete handpump, it takes 5 quarts, you buy six for insurance, I recommend 7 to push a little bit more of the old fluid out. 722.9 ATF adapter is on amazon. The filter kit you can buy from RockAuto from VAICO with everything you need including the bolts. The upgraded filter kit IS for the A89 transmissions which has the deeper sump and thicker filter. I don't think it would apply to you. You can also check the transmission pan and tell me if it has dimples or not like this one
I have icarsoft v2 mad it worked well when I was learning.
However, the hacked Xentry laptop is something else for what I spent.
It is all about how much you want to spend
I’m kind of looking for the one and done option I buy it and it does everything I need to do. I know a lot of people use icarsoft just wanted to see everyone’s opinion
I’m kind of looking for the one and done option I buy it and it does everything I need to do. I know a lot of people use icarsoft just wanted to see everyone’s opinion
Depends what you want to do. Xentry is a little over the top if you just want to drive it. That's pretty much full featured and you can go make changes and it's much more involved, good if you want to be able to hack the car and change various values for fun. If you just want to fix whatever is broken, then something cheap like the Autel AP200 or the icarsoft or whatever else is out there that reads MB specific codes is all you need. And yes, you do have A89 in the vin decoder.
And you do have the pano roof, if it makes a cracking noise when you go over a ramp like into a parking lot at an angle, that's the screws loose under the headliner. You just have to remove the back of the headliner to get at the 6 bolts and tighten them up with loctite, should be about an hour, youtube videos cover it.
06-18-2023, 10:36 PM
