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I gotta put the Collision Assistance thingy on hold, the last couple cold starts, one of my camshaft adjusters has really not been happy. No lights or codes, but it's angry enough for me to get it fixed before something really nasty like a shifted camshaft reluctor. I don't have the means to get into that much repair.
Will be a minute before I can resume the electrical gremlins plaguing the distance assistance issues.
I gotta put the Collision Assistance thingy on hold, the last couple cold starts, one of my camshaft adjusters has really not been happy. No lights or codes, but it's angry enough for me to get it fixed before something really nasty like a shifted camshaft reluctor. I don't have the means to get into that much repair.
Will be a minute before I can resume the electrical gremlins plaguing the distance assistance issues.
Thanks for all the help,
To be continued...
Sorry to hear about that priority shift! It's better you tend to the engine camshafts sooner than later.
Do you think it is your intake passenger lock-pin is wasted already or simply your chain tensioners leaking oil pressure? While tensioners are empty they make pretty decent rattle with the same frequency as the MB signature VVT Rattle.
You can easily pop the magnesium timing cover, rotate crankshaft to assess damage.
Recently I've watched Tasos talk about rebuild kit options to prevent $700Ea. VVT.
Tasos pretty much said the engine either wears the Intake phasers driving low RPM around town or the Exhaust with higher speeds.
So you want to rotate the crank manually 2X TURNS to witness any loose phasers.
While in there, secondary chain tensioners always good items to replace. My '14 came with check-valves factory installed.
New genuine tensioners are weak and less than smooth. You can pull the pin and manually play with the plugger, that gets stuck, release etc
🤞
+++ Next Frontier: MFK!
It's likely I will crack open my working sealed MFK before the loose pins cook up a surprise (networked radars keep reporting transient ghost's, to get my attention 🙂.
The windshield twin camera feature their own high current glass defroster controlled locally - So their internall pins handle DTA/PWR ... me hitchy handed too
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 10-25-2023 at 09:15 PM.
Thanks, Cali. I believe it is the passenger, it normally doesn't rattle loud that often, a couple times in the past year save the last few days, today it was the loudest and longest it has ever been.
Normally cold starts are just the werring sound of the secondary tensioners pumping up.
Mine is a 14' should have the check valves as well.
I had previously captured and graphed all four cam sensor readings, the exhaust and bank 2 intake showed a rise but was smooth, the bank one intake was jagged showing the pin not fully locked in place. I can't image the capture if I'd gotten a graph from today's sadness. So I'm fairly confident it's both the secondary tensioners as well as the bank one Camshaft Adjuster based on those captures.
I've not pulled the cover to physically verify the fault yet. Stamina not yet recovered. Took half a day just to do a simple oil change on the wife's Santa Fe the other day. Simply embarrassing. I use to be able to do two full brake jobs and a couple wheel alignments all at the same time in a couple hours.
Still trying to decide, the dealer or a run down Mercedes and import shop, that was well recommended by the BMW shop I know, but the junk cars on his lot, Albeit he's been there since the 80s or longer. Also good reviews online. No other shop has the tools.
Sorry to hear about that priority shift! It's better you tend to the engine camshafts sooner than later.
Do you think it is your intake passenger lock-pin is wasted already or simply your chain tensioners leaking oil pressure? While tensioners are empty they make pretty decent rattle with the same frequency as the MB signature VVT Rattle.
You can easily pop the magnesium timing cover, rotate crankshaft to assess damage.
Recently I've watched Tasos talk about rebuild kit options to prevent $700Ea. VVT.
Tasos pretty much said the engine either wears the Intake phasers driving low RPM around town or the Exhaust with higher speeds.
So you want to rotate the crank manually 2X TURNS to witness any loose phasers.
While in there, secondary chain tensioners always good items to replace. My '14 came with check-valves factory installed.
New genuine tensioners are weak and less than smooth. You can pull the pin and manually play with the plugger, that gets stuck, release etc
🤞
+++ Next Frontier: MFK!
It's likely I will crack open my working sealed MFK before the loose pins cook up a surprise (networked radars keep reporting transient ghost's, to get my attention 🙂.
The windshield twin camera feature their own high current glass defroster controlled locally - So their internall pins handle DTA/PWR ... me hitchy handed too
I know the car has a lot of interstate miles, we mainly use the car on the interstate, but we generally keep it under 70, but I do occasionally use it in town to doctors offices, most still don't allow but the patient in the rooms, and her knees are really bad this year.
But if it is just the tensioners, all the better. I wish I could do it, I would not replace the adjusters, I'd tig weld with stainless rods, reshape the plates and they'd never wear out as long as I own the car.
Thanks, Cali. I believe it is the passenger, it normally doesn't rattle loud that often, a couple times in the past year save the last few days, today it was the loudest and longest it has ever been.
Normally cold starts are just the werring sound of the secondary tensioners pumping up.
Mine is a 14' should have the check valves as well.
I had previously captured and graphed all four cam sensor readings, the exhaust and bank 2 intake showed a rise but was smooth, the bank one intake was jagged showing the pin not fully locked in place. I can't image the capture if I'd gotten a graph from today's sadness. So I'm fairly confident it's both the secondary tensioners as well as the bank one Camshaft Adjuster based on those captures.
I've not pulled the cover to physically verify the fault yet. Stamina not yet recovered. Took half a day just to do a simple oil change on the wife's Santa Fe the other day. Simply embarrassing. I use to be able to do two full brake jobs and a couple wheel alignments all at the same time in a couple hours.
Still trying to decide, the dealer or a run down Mercedes and import shop, that was well recommended by the BMW shop I know, but the junk cars on his lot, Albeit he's been there since the 80s or longer. Also good reviews online. No other shop has the tools.
It seems this Bank 1 intake VVT will be the one to worn itself out in M276 V6, is inline with its distance being further from oil filter distribution point compared to Bank 2 intake VVT.
After all the oil filter is at Bank 2.
It seems this Bank 1 intake VVT will be the one to worn itself out in M276 V6, is inline with its distance being further from oil filter distribution point compared to Bank 2 intake VVT.
After all the oil filter is at Bank 2.
Thanks S-Prihadi, very good point, coupled with the low oil pressure strategy and the extra load of a high pressure fuel pump at the other end of it...All things work together.
Rickman30, circling back to your original question, I have determined why you get the "OFF" notation in your assistance graphic.
I've been able to duplicate the view in my car, below (left). The screen reads "OFF" because your "Collision Prevention Assist Plus" (Code 258) is disabled (right pic). Not a feature of any Distronic function at all. But you do have Code 258, as noted in your first post.
Press OK to reactivate this feature and the "OFF" graphic goes away.
Rickman30, circling back to your original question, I have determined why you get the "OFF" notation in your assistance graphic.
I've been able to duplicate the view in my car, below (left). The screen reads "OFF" because your "Collision Prevention Assist Plus" (Code 258) is disabled (right pic). Reactivate this feature and "OFF" goes away.
It reads off when "Enabled" and "Disabled". I never disabled it till this issue began, and only disabled to see if it would make any difference while driving with graphic up, it didn't, says off in both instances.
Aside from that, it has been "Enabled" since I bought the car a year ago.
Thanks S-Prihadi, very good point, coupled with the low oil pressure strategy and the extra load of a high pressure fuel pump at the other end of it...All things work together.
GREAT point
The way HPFP is mounted at the rear of Intake camshaft gives VVT Phaser greater need for pressure to spin it. With low pressure, it's easily forced into locked position.
I noticed my rattlesnake pump sounds less diesel-like with normal oil pressure.
More pressure, better lube & less locking pin workout.
Now we have all the reason why "Passenger VVT" is the go-to for early rattle!
There are Phasers rebuild kits for sale out there... dono exactly where -
Thanks Rick 🙏
++++ part II ++++
Camshaft drives HPFP with 3 or 4 lobes, right?
That means any shaft speed variation is multiplied by 3 or 4, correct?
Fuel rail pressure is controlled by a PWM solenoid, right?
Listen to the idle sound difference:
-- with "Low oil" idle sounds like a butterfly going up and down slittly.
-- with "normal oil" idle sound smooth and captured, no up/down. Humm like bumble bee.
I bet intake camshaft Bk1 unsettled motions correlate with fuelrail pressure variations, else with fuel trims - TBD 🤞
The shortcut back to goodness here is "normal oil...". MB went the other route
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 10-26-2023 at 06:22 PM.
Reason: Murphy's nest
The way HPFP is mounted at the rear of Intake camshaft gives VVT Phaser greater need for pressure to spin it. With low pressure, it's easily forced into locked position.
I noticed my rattlesnake pump sounds less diesel-like with normal oil pressure.
More pressure, better lube & less locking pin workout.
Now we have all the reason why "Passenger VVT" is the go-to for early rattle!
There are Phasers rebuild kits for sale out there... dono exactly where -
Thanks Rick 🙏
++++ part II ++++
Camshaft drives HPFP with 3 or 4 lobes, right?
That means any shaft speed variation is multiplied by 3 or 4, correct?
Fuel rail pressure is controlled by a PWM solenoid, right?
Listen to the idle sound difference:
-- with "Low oil" idle sounds like a butterfly going up and down slittly.
-- with "normal oil" idle sound smooth and captured, no up/down. Humm like bumble bee.
I bet intake camshaft Bk1 unsettled motions correlate with fuelrail pressure variations, else with fuel trims - TBD 🤞
The shortcut back to goodness here is "normal oil...". MB went the other route
Good call Cali giving even more food for thought.
So ultimately, if we can disable the _____ low oil pressure sadness, the engine will live longer.
Designed Obsolescence...Good job MB.
I may have mentioned, I thought of plugging another oil pressure solenoid, only outside engine, possibly fool the system and allow full oil pressure 100% of the time. Will only work, tho, if it is a single or dual wire circuit, if it has a third sensor/feedback wire, or if the PCM verifies oil pressure, it will not work. Hmm.
I drive both interstate and in town. I try to keep an equal balance, along with shorter oil change intervals to further protect the engine and keep it clean inside.
So ultimately, if we can disable the _____ low oil pressure sadness, the engine will live longer.
Designed Obsolescence...Good job MB.
I may have mentioned, I thought of plugging another oil pressure solenoid, only outside engine, possibly fool the system and allow full oil pressure 100% of the time. Will only work, tho, if it is a single or dual wire circuit, if it has a third sensor/feedback wire, or if the PCM verifies oil pressure, it will not work. Hmm.
I drive both interstate and in town. I try to keep an equal balance, along with shorter oil change intervals to further protect the engine and keep it clean inside.
Luckily the low pressure control solenoid is easily defeated. Without it the pump only produces normal pressure. On the 276 motor, a Bosch MED17.7 ECU has no sensor to measure the engine oil pressure... these are too expensive
There's no need to plug in a decoy load, the ECU fault is kept silent - So personally, I went the easy route.
The direct impact is better heat management with better lubrication. This has transformed my engine driveability.
Mercedes finest looking... great all around, what else do you want? My engine quit burning oil black...
When you fix all the bad then your left with all the good, right?
My heads & pistons say thank you MS!!!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 10-27-2023 at 12:02 AM.
Took to dealer, drivers side intake adjuster not pumping up as intended (code for worn lock pin and plate), $4k to correct. No issues with Collision Prevention found, software good, they said.
Took to dealer, drivers side intake adjuster not pumping up as intended (code for worn lock pin and plate), $4k to correct. No issues with Collision Prevention found, software good, they said.
$4000 for one intake VVT $700 OEM Gear or both Intakes?
Took to dealer, drivers side intake adjuster not pumping up as intended (code for worn lock pin and plate), $4k to correct. No issues with Collision Prevention found, software good, they said.
Not happy, but 12 shops refused to even attempt the work.
Sure, I can find plenty 300 to 500 miles away, but by the time I tow it there and back, I'm still out that much money.
I could attempt the work myself, I can buy the special tools needed, but my body is not physically able anymore to perform the work without help. I tried to put a battery in my Jeep, and I had to get my neighbor to finish it for me.
Rick, We'll try to help you minimize the bites. Is there anyway you can find an honest specialist around your home?? What city are in?
You can drive the car to a good town and catch a airplane back or a limo ride for cheaper than $4,000.USD -
🤞
It's okay, I'm not giving up the search, just it was so loud the other day, I feared shifting the reluctor or worse.
I have been talking to every possible tech and shop, looking for a place to depend on.
The hard part is my voice is reduced to a whisper, my wife's interpretation of my questions are frustrating at best. She feels she must embellish. And most of the time in a way that loses the point of the question.
Don't get me wrong, she's my best friend, and would be lost without.
Well that didn't turn out as hoped. Got car back, after sitting for over a week, still rattles on start-up. Called them to enquire about it they warranty their work, SA will be back next week.
Well that didn't turn out as hoped. Got car back, after sitting for over a week, still rattles on start-up.
Called them to enquire about it they warranty their work, SA will be back next week.
Don't worry Rick, we'll help you see through the smoke to get that fixed easily. It's ridiculous we can't rely on overpaid specialist to hit the marks.
What did get replaced and not fix your start-up rattle ?
> Parts canon in that order:
1x 2x secondary tensioners
1x 2x 4x VVT Gear
1x 2x camshafts
1x HPFP + roller
oil grade in use?
Mileage, engine type/year
> Startup Rattle type:
short/long: 2s or 5s?
how often: every day, once a week?
🤞
++++ Me just picked up vertical freeplay in front driver axle driver side at 55kMi...
I guess ball joint plastic cradle got smashed already.
It feels like bearing freeplay except only in vertical axes.... so I guess I need a set of fully dressed front control arms.
Is there anything better than basic MB Control arm... Lemforder, MOOG ??
While on this topic, I don't really want a stiff silicone bushing but improved bushing.
Wheels coming off Saturday : rear pads + front Headlights module
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-15-2023 at 09:50 PM.
10-23-2023, 09:08 PM
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