The car; 2014 E350 M276.052, 140567 miles, oil; Liquid-Moly Molygen 5w-40 change every 5k, Blackstone says I should try changing @ 7k next change. Most of the miles are interstate, as I have an 04 Jeep WJ for in town. So car will sit for sometimes two weeks, but I try to hit the interstate once a week if I'm able.

They claimed it was the left camshaft adjuster, despite the scan tool screen captures I gave them showing bank one with the abnormal jagged graph caught during startup, it's still there on bank one just harder to capture now as one or two days it's fine.

About 5 seconds in length. But, it doesn't make the rattle at every startup, most of the time just a soft werr for about 3 or 4 seconds but only when cold first start after sitting for a few days.

So they replaced; 1 Switching Valve 276050027828
1 Chain Tensioner 276050250064
3 Seal Ring 0169975045
6 Screw with Feature 0009903924
8 Hexalobular Bolt 000000006365
1 Sealant MB 003989982010
3 TS Spring F Injector 1770720000
1 Reman Camshaft Positioner

Parts 1639.93 labor 1850.00 Been 5 weeks since done.

I called and was dissatisfied with the conversation. After lodging my complaint, he asked, "Has the car been here before"

 

They didn't find anything wrong with the Collision Assistance either, despite what the graphic says.

 

Rick, you know what... that actually sound like a job honnestly done if that "left camshat" is on bank1 (passenger intake).

140kMi... definitely give it a driver side tensioner and while you're in the timing cover simply check if VVT Gear still locks without skipping forward.

 

It was the drivers side, bank2. The oil pool in the splash shield they forgot to clean-up was on the drivers side of the engine from when the cylinder head cover or the vacuum pump or both, was removed, the new bolts and sealant on the drivers side front cam cover.

Invoice states, Technician verified rattle noise on startup coming from drivers side camshaft adjuster.

I'm going to see what they say at the dealer, hopefully they'll do right by me.

Thanks Cali, I do appreciate your input, my friend.

 

Ok bud: *** XMas gift at the bottom: Plan-B ***

I take that back... not a "honest job", instead it's a ridiculous busy work on bank-2


> RECAP:
-- you have a 140kMi with long startup rattle.

-- You drive to the neares dealer that proceeds to replace all the right parts on the wrong bank.

-- Your car does exact same nasty rattle.

--The dealer guaranteed repairs are entirely ineffective so what....?


Every factory trained mechanic and his dog know the rattle is caused by the hard to move HPFP shaft on Bank-1 intake ie. "passenger side intake".

That VVT phaser Lock Pin gets worned out by low oil pressure and stress from driving the HPFP lobes. This loose VVT causes the rattling.
This does not happen to any of the other 3 camshafts!!

Dealing with dishonest seasoned highway robbers is an uphill battle.... take your losses, run the other way! Don't waste your spit.


What you need is a classic bank-1 intake job :

• 1x Intake ​​​​​​VVT Phaser
• 1x chain Tensioner
• HPFP + Roller!
• (PCV Kit!)
• (check CPS!)

At that mileage, consider replacement of HPFP/Roller that are causing this issue and will be needed soon anyway. While back there replace plastic PCV Cover + discharge pipe.

What wears out HOFP is dry lube condition. Stable timing of fuel pump will restore your lost engine performance.


>>> PLAN B: We can do better for ya! <<<
- You want it good and cheap ??

- How about a $100 repair now?
We can do that as you've paid enough.

- Only tensioner plus good oil pressure and you can drive the next 50kMi no problem.

- The startup music will remain BUT CAN BE IGNORED as good pressure prevent VVT from locking on low oil.

- At some point do consider HPFP/Roller, it's trashed.
Leave stupid VVT as-is given good oil pressure if you're comfortable given high mileage risks...

Happy holidays Rick.


​

 

I had replaced the CMP sensors when I found oil in them, I didn't wait for that. Oil had barely made it to ECM, I cleaned everything up, spraying down ECM. Then I applied dielectric grease to base of ECM pins to semi seal them against future oil intrusion.

Good to know about HPFP roller, (edit) that's why on startup bank1 shows a jagged capture on the scan tool graph, and I thought it was the phaser doing that. LOL Thank you for that revelation.
I already bought the Oil Separator and Drip pan, I'll get the tube as well, Thanks again.

I am trying new approaches to my health. I'll go ahead an unplug oil solenoid, and acquire the parts I don't have you just indicated, and get a mechanic friend to help do this come spring.

Just to recap; PCV, Oil Separator, drip pan, and tube.
Timing, Secondary tensioner, Camshaft Positioner
Cam; HPFP cam follower. Should I consider the pump as well, while apart?

I'm afraid to see how much carbon build up is on intake valves, I could do the poor man method of manual cleaning them with tools and a cleaner while apart too.

I could save more money by Tig welding the worn lock plate with stainless steel and flip the lock pin. Just a thought. Depends on time frame.

Thank you so very much for the holiday cheer, I wish for you a joyful and happy Holidays.

 

You're welcome

Yes you have the list right.

HPFP is necessary because the shaft gets harder to shift from dry running. It's what kills the roller needles bearing with too much efforts to compress the pump return spring - When you wait too long to repair ignored sounds, the flat roller carves the soft steel lobes.
All that HPFP needs is proper oiling in the first place but the it is located in the worst corner where only left-over pressure is available - - When people don't drive hard enough above 3500.Rpm half pressure is used, bubly oil an all are the what not pressure losses at VVT, bearings... it's the "best or something" lubrication.

On the flip side your 140kMi engine shows that it works.... can't be too bad, nicely used with predictable issues.

 

If I were you... I'd save the cash from going into the money pit: Just do PLAN B! No headaches.

When transmission shows up, the retiring will go easier. I have just lost recycled my Acura due to torque converter ($6k California job )

Go enjoy the difference in an all inclusive resort of your choice or... Costa Rica.

 

I'll unplug the oil solenoid tomorrow, and go for a drive on the interstate. Good thing I use quality oil. I also use Ceratec too, Blackstone said they see no issues with using it, analysis shows the wear is like for a lower mileage engine than my actual mileage. Super good considering it had 10k oil changes before.

First owner put 58k in two years, second owner put 13k a year on car. First owner used dealer for all services including tires, second owner used independent shops, but used dealer for warranty work.

Once I get this back into top form, should last a good long time.

Thanks again Cali.

 

Haven't unplugged yet, under the weather, did try and do some testing from the seat of the car. Before shutting car down, I idled engine above 3500 then let idle down and shut off. Absolutely no noise from the phasers or anything, started as if I'd just driven somewhere but was cold, outside temp was 52F at the time, normally the colder like that the more likely it would rattle.

After letting sit all day, I restarted and it made a brief 2 second rattle.

Based on my oil analysis, Im thinking I have a very low chance of anything causing a failure in the solenoid, so hopefully tomorrow will be better and I feel up to working on it. I've got a 450 mile trip Thursday, I'd like to log it with the solenoid unplugged.

I want to investigate an oil pressure gauge setup. Something a little more permanent, or at least reversible.

 

As long as your VVT Phasers are supplied with good oil pressure not to lock in/out, they'll have a longer life.
However the weak tensioner seal help leak pressure.

Use a Motul Xcess 10W40 to keep good viscosity unlike the popular Mobil-1 10w40 that's borderline W30....

 

I’ve never tried Mobile or Motul oil. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to bump up the viscosity from 5w-40, but I only have about 1k on this oil. Would be this time next year before I get 4k on this oil.

Thanks Cali. Appreciate you

 

I've noticed that Tasos replaces the tensioner oil check valves in the heads too. It appears they are threaded for removal.

New tools...

Not all tool trucks are alike, some are Meh, but the good ones are like Christmas without the tinsel and mistletoe

 

You're welcome Rick

Yes tensioner check-valves are threaded but *** BEWARE ***

They use different type of constructions. Where the shoulder flange is located is essential.

-- If shoulder is located deep behind the thread you'll brake the valve apart in half and never extract it.

-- if the thread is pulling againt the shoulder near the exit then cake-walk easy replacement!


Guess which check valve is factory installed?
The one that requires drilling surgery extraction.


I have two brand new unused spare valves laying around. I spotted that rat-trap and left my factory valves alone!

 

Thanks Cali
I'd already assumed these were hardened parts.