Radiator Replacement Options
#1
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Radiator Replacement Options
I have a 2014 with 130k and need to replace the radiator because of a leak. I'm planning to go with OEM, but if anyone has recommendations based on their experience please let me know if there is any better or just as good alternative brands out there that I should consider. After recently replacing my tail light with Depot brand with bad fitment and moisture issues, I regret not going with OEM and don't want to make the same mistake again. I usually order from RockAuto but would like to know if there is a better place to buy from. Is there anything else I should replace along with the radiator for maintenance?
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I would go with OE.
Once you have part number, you can google it for the best price.
I have really good experience with Husker. but now I see error on the site.
502 Bad Gateway (mbdirectparts.com)
Once you have part number, you can google it for the best price.
I have really good experience with Husker. but now I see error on the site.
502 Bad Gateway (mbdirectparts.com)
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#4
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
CARPARTS dot com is pretty amazing:
Large OE brand selection
Great pricing
Great shipping
Great experience
It beats the out-'O-stock supply chain organized chaos.
Large OE brand selection
Great pricing
Great shipping
Great experience
It beats the out-'O-stock supply chain organized chaos.
#5
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Thanks everyone for the info.
There are two radiators with different part numbers showing up for this car and one is double the price:
204-500-30-03 $815
https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/...LXY2LWZsZXg%3D
204-500-36-03 $392
https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/...LXY2LWZsZXg%3D
I'm not sure what the difference is between the two and I'm inclined to get the cheaper one if it is a direct replacement for the original. Anyone knows which one to get?
There are two radiators with different part numbers showing up for this car and one is double the price:
204-500-30-03 $815
https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/...LXY2LWZsZXg%3D
204-500-36-03 $392
https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/...LXY2LWZsZXg%3D
I'm not sure what the difference is between the two and I'm inclined to get the cheaper one if it is a direct replacement for the original. Anyone knows which one to get?
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
They both are marked as MB brand, what can't be truth. Looks like shoddy advertisement to me, but would they confirm the cheaper is in fact MB-brand - I would go for it.
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#8
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Check your car datacard, the expensive radiator is if you car is PZEV emission code 917, whatever that EXACTLY means in terms of component differences to regular car.
PZEV: Partial Zero Emission Vehicle. PZEVs meet SULEV tailpipe emission standards, have zero evaporative emissions and a 15-year/150,000 mile warranty.
PZEV: Partial Zero Emission Vehicle. PZEVs meet SULEV tailpipe emission standards, have zero evaporative emissions and a 15-year/150,000 mile warranty.
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#9
Just replaced the radiator in my E350 a month ago. I wasn't to happy that the original Valeo radiator began leaking with only 80K miles so didn't want to replace with the same brand. Bought a Denso radiator off of Rockauto for $150. Quality and fitment were identical to the original.
Fairly straight forward to replace. Hardest part was wrestling the radiator out through the top. Very tight squeeze.
Fairly straight forward to replace. Hardest part was wrestling the radiator out through the top. Very tight squeeze.
#10
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
hot pressurized
Just replaced the radiator in my E350 a month ago. I wasn't to happy that the original Valeo radiator began leaking with only 80K miles so didn't want to replace with the same brand. Bought a Denso radiator off of Rockauto for $150. Quality and fitment were identical to the original.
Fairly straight forward to replace. Hardest part was wrestling the radiator out through the top. Very tight squeeze.
Fairly straight forward to replace. Hardest part was wrestling the radiator out through the top. Very tight squeeze.
When the engine gets stopped, a lot of internal heat has no place to go but in the coolant that is not guaranteed to circulate through the radiator for cooling. As the coolant gets overheated the whole cooling circuit is then over pressurized.
#11
Check the coolant tank cap isn't preventing venting.
When the engine gets stopped, a lot of internal heat has no place to go but in the coolant that is not guaranteed to circulate through the radiator for cooling. As the coolant gets overheated the whole cooling circuit is then over pressurized.
When the engine gets stopped, a lot of internal heat has no place to go but in the coolant that is not guaranteed to circulate through the radiator for cooling. As the coolant gets overheated the whole cooling circuit is then over pressurized.
Cooling systems are are purposely pressurized to increase the boiling point of the coolant, but vent after about 15 psi. I suppose I would need to install a pressure gauge somewhere to see if it exceeds this pressure.
Is there any easy access point to check this pressure?
#12
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
coolant tank cap
Interesting, just figured I had a bad quality radiator since it began leaking on the side crimped on section.
Cooling systems are are purposely pressurized to increase the boiling point of the coolant, but vent after about 15 psi. I suppose I would need to install a pressure gauge somewhere to see if it exceeds this pressure.
Is there any easy access point to check this pressure?
Cooling systems are are purposely pressurized to increase the boiling point of the coolant, but vent after about 15 psi. I suppose I would need to install a pressure gauge somewhere to see if it exceeds this pressure.
Is there any easy access point to check this pressure?
During pressure testing the cap is replaced by the test equipment. This is a hand pump and a low pressure gauge.
The entire cooling system is thus pressure tested for leaks.... minus the cap itself.
#13
Maybe I can use the cooling system pressure tester by only pressurizing the coolant reservoir.
#14
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
MB cooling.... not simple
There is a way of testing the cap itself. The tool cost more than a new vent cap....
The W212 cooling circuit topic is interesting to survey because it involves targeted maintenance. Here are my favorites:
- super heated cylinders
- software operated thermostat
- variable speed radiator fan
Make friend with minor leaks... my perfectly new M276-NA was already leaking from factory. MB dealer was able to assure me everything was normal.
The coolant leak and oily smell are all included at no cost.
So I got used to free leaks instead of leak free.
These engines offer a lot of extreme heat to extract through the coolant circuit alone. This level of heat is associated with the leaking CPS cam sensors.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-09-2024 at 03:08 PM.
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#15
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11 E550, 16 AMG GTS, 13 S550
The Denso and CSF aftermarket radiators from RockAuto have all fit wonderfully.
Mahle/Behr and/or Valeo are original equipment
Mahle/Behr and/or Valeo are original equipment
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#16
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Thread Starter
Just replaced the radiator in my E350 a month ago. I wasn't to happy that the original Valeo radiator began leaking with only 80K miles so didn't want to replace with the same brand. Bought a Denso radiator off of Rockauto for $150. Quality and fitment were identical to the original.
Fairly straight forward to replace. Hardest part was wrestling the radiator out through the top. Very tight squeeze.
Fairly straight forward to replace. Hardest part was wrestling the radiator out through the top. Very tight squeeze.
#17
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Thread Starter
Is there anything else I should replace as preventive maintenance with the radiator?...like any hoses, clamps, etc?
Also, do I need to refill with MB brand coolant or is there anything better out there with same specs that's a good alternate? How much coolant would it require?
Also, do I need to refill with MB brand coolant or is there anything better out there with same specs that's a good alternate? How much coolant would it require?
#18
Zerex makes a coolant that meets the specification (blue coolant). Refer to this link:
https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/
Replacing o-rings is always recommended. I didn't, but my E350 only has 85K miles.
https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/
Replacing o-rings is always recommended. I didn't, but my E350 only has 85K miles.
Last edited by Andreas Zagel; 03-10-2024 at 08:04 PM.
#19
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2014 Cummins, 2014 E250 Bluetec
IMHO replace all the basic stuff that has to be taken apart for the job. Hoses, O-rings, gaskets, clamps if they are really old. The kind of stuff ya dont want blowing out just after ya changed all the coolant for example.
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
Here is list if collateral parts:
- thermostat unit
- coolant cap
- serpentine belt kit
- oil heat exchanger
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the oil heat exchanger is support important, don't just replace the gasket too, replace the whole thing if you can swing the cash
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